Beardo
Well-Known Member
On that size tank and relatively short term use the cheap one will work perfect. When you start pushing the size rating or plan to run long term, the higher quality unit may make sense.
Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
- Thread starter mcarroll
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I think it is a type of dino. Though, really small and fast moving like in you video. It can collect fairly quick on the glass but my cherub angel and snails like to munch on them. No negative signs from it. I think its sort of that "bio-film" people like to talk about but have no clue as to what it is. I think eventually they will be out competed. I wish I had a better answer/microscope.
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correct. This is not a problematic dino. may not even be a dino at all. Small zoomy things like this show up when there is a food source - in my system things like this are usually ciliates. Fast swimmers tend to be more likely hunters than photosynthetic dinos.
mstockmaster
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So what's my play? I had eliminated these last fall with elevated nutrients. But they came back and my nutrients aren't bottomed out ( 20 nitrates .03 phosphate).
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Test your nutrients again. Presumably you tested at the start of a new bloom, they might have absorbed more. I would also invest in a UV sterilizer.
mstockmaster
Active Member
I test every 3-4 days. Salifert nitrate, Hanna ulr phosphorus. I'll test again tonight with Hanna and salifert phosphorus. Maybe I'll just dump some phosphate in for food measure. I think I had it up to .15 or so when I last got rid of this crap. A local guy is giving me a 36 watt coralife uv that needs a bulb. If I can't reduce this outbreak in a week I'll throw it on and see what happens.
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Before this new bloom, did you by any chance add anything different to the tank? Example: h2o2, nutrient reducers like waste away or vibrant, mb7 or stability? Anything different?
Beardo
Well-Known Member
Ostreopsis are a cyst forming dinoflagellates. Most likely what you are seeing now is a result of the cysts "hatching". I would start with examining what conditions have changed since the last time they receded. Then try to match the conditions that caused them to recede the first time. I also agree with @reeferfoxx on the UV. A properly sized UV really helps with Ostreopsis. As far as sizing, shoot for 0.5 watts per gallon.
JaimeAdams
2500 Club Member
Question. Are there any dips that will kill dins and not coral. Will iodine dips, Bayer, coral rx, revive or anything else kill dins on a coral without killing the coral?
Beardo
Well-Known Member
I did some testing and only thing I found to be even remotely effective against "most" dino species was diluted peroxide dip followed by a low salinity dip. I did have some coral losses though especially SPS with lower salinities. It also doesn't kill any encysted dinos.
mstockmaster
Active Member
Added new skimmer. Added a small diy ATS. Wanted to lower the amount of nitrates in the tank. I have not added any chemicals or other snake oil products.
If that's with the ULR phosphorous checker the margin of error is 5ppm +5% of the reading. 10ppm would be a level of 0.03 so if you do the math, the 0.03 could have actually been 0.01 which is plenty low enough to be a factor in the new bloom.
For that reason I'm going to aim to keep my reading 0.06-0.08 or above
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That is frustrating. I wonder if it was too soon to perform any nutrient reductions. Maybe too much of a shift? I think UV is the new insurance policy for reefs unfortunately.
Beardo
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Yes, that should work great.
Bob Lauson
Active Member
I use a 40W UV sterilizer on my 180 gallon DT with a 40 gallon sump. I currently have the sterilizer in the DT and will keep it there for a while longer as the Dino’s have only been gone for about 3 weeks.
Mstockmaster
What you posted is what stands out to me in these threads and is the basis for my minor challenges to this system which leaves an invader in place as a core design. I'm not downing the thread, it's attaining some cures and making headway for large tankers who can't rip clean fully.
over time as these noncompliants post, I'll add this: any non compliant tank posting this kind of detail should have total dedicated unfettered +10 focus until resolved attention from the top three resolutioners in this thread
The finality in my opinion is no form of nutrient changes makes a Dino invasion... Cells=gone is the goal. **thousands of pico reefers and nano keepers never concern over N and P and are models for being invader free, the biased feel. We're mass excluders by and large and hope more larger tanks in early stage invasion will consider the option.
we have GFO users, phosphate stripper picos, who were never invaded as well... AndrewK has online a four year thread on a two gallon, gfo saved him water change work and never caused dinos to bloom because they weren't there.
if we ever had a chance to apply a force clean model to the tank for Mstock in our threads, afterwards we would order from Algen the latest living competing live pods + your microbe competitor bottled bac soln's which aren't harmful to use even if they aren't guaranteed to work. Use this competition approach the Dino thread has championed, but in the order of ops that applies it to the least invader mass possible.
What you posted is what stands out to me in these threads and is the basis for my minor challenges to this system which leaves an invader in place as a core design. I'm not downing the thread, it's attaining some cures and making headway for large tankers who can't rip clean fully.
over time as these noncompliants post, I'll add this: any non compliant tank posting this kind of detail should have total dedicated unfettered +10 focus until resolved attention from the top three resolutioners in this thread
The finality in my opinion is no form of nutrient changes makes a Dino invasion... Cells=gone is the goal. **thousands of pico reefers and nano keepers never concern over N and P and are models for being invader free, the biased feel. We're mass excluders by and large and hope more larger tanks in early stage invasion will consider the option.
we have GFO users, phosphate stripper picos, who were never invaded as well... AndrewK has online a four year thread on a two gallon, gfo saved him water change work and never caused dinos to bloom because they weren't there.
if we ever had a chance to apply a force clean model to the tank for Mstock in our threads, afterwards we would order from Algen the latest living competing live pods + your microbe competitor bottled bac soln's which aren't harmful to use even if they aren't guaranteed to work. Use this competition approach the Dino thread has championed, but in the order of ops that applies it to the least invader mass possible.
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Jolanta
Active Member
One question guys, in my big tank I dont have dino problems but its very phosphate limited, my nitrates rise with food but my phosphates dont, thay read 0 or 1 on my hanna ulr phosphorus, my sps corals look pale and some will str, to help them I try to dose seachem phosphorus but everytime I dose I see negative response from my corals, they close with only 0.01 rise, is there any way I have enough phosphate but my test dont show it? When I had chaeto in sump it grows really quick, I took it out to rise my phosphate now.
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