Thanks. I'm still new to UV so bear with my somewhat ignorance on the topic. Aren't we more concerned with exposure time than wpg? As in my post above - if I'm utilizing let's say 1wpg but flow rate is markedly faster than 0.5wpg at a much slower rate... Aren't I still better off with less wattage? Not trying to reinvent the wheel, just trying to understand how it works and what to shoot for [emoji16]
Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
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Beardo
Well-Known Member
Sizing and flow are related, not seperate factors. You need the right flowrate for the size of the unit to be effective at killing the dinos and you also need enough turnover of the tank water volume thru the UV to impact the dino population.
That's my question [emoji2], what is considered adequate turnover? The only unit that actually shows a chart with flow rates for adequate exposure to protozoa is the Pentair model, see screenshot attached.
I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here, but as far as I can tell it all boils down to contact time and I'm guessing that many of the folks that say UV didn't help are perhaps running too much flow through the unit. Now... To figure out what an adequate turnover is...
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mcarroll
10K Club member
Like @Beardo said, consider watts and flow since it takes both. 
You'll want to run whatever unit you get at the low end of the manufacturer's recommended flow range.
As long as you hit the .5 watt/gal "minimum" then you can probably experiment with the flow rate if needed. (It's usually better to buy a unit with manufacturer recommendations vs one where the mfgr makes no recommendations or to go by someone's prior experience here if possible though.)
You'll want to run whatever unit you get at the low end of the manufacturer's recommended flow range.
As long as you hit the .5 watt/gal "minimum" then you can probably experiment with the flow rate if needed. (It's usually better to buy a unit with manufacturer recommendations vs one where the mfgr makes no recommendations or to go by someone's prior experience here if possible though.)
Beardo
Well-Known Member
Based only on my experience and the dose charts from AquaUV: I am running about 1,300 gpm through my 114 watt unit which should provide a dose of 90,000 uW/cm2 at end of bulb life and this doseage was effective at killing dinos.That's my question [emoji2], what is considered adequate turnover? The only unit that actually shows a chart with flow rates for adequate exposure to protozoa is the Pentair model, see screenshot attached.
I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here, but as far as I can tell it all boils down to contact time and I'm guessing that many of the folks that say UV didn't help are perhaps running too much flow through the unit. Now... To figure out what an adequate turnover is...
With the charts provided by Pentair, you should be hit the same levels at 524 gpm through their 40 watt unit.
Edit: the difference is how often are you passing your water through the unit.
In my case, assuming complete turnover, which we know isn't the case, I was turning over the tank volume (through UV) 5 times and hour.
With the 40 watt unit on your system (if I remember correctly is 175 gals total water volume), the turnover is only 3 times an hour.
This is where the sizing of the unit becomes a factor. Is 3 times an hour (less in actuality) enough to be effective.
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mcarroll
10K Club member
Anywhere close to the lower end of that flow rate....100-300 GPH? If there's a stonger dose range than that, go with the strongest one. (i.e. the lowest flow rate)
You will be pleased to know I'm back in the club. Yes procentrum have taken up residence and making my sand look rusty with a touch of snot.
How I love these little creatures, not least for the oxygen we breath but also because I get to annoy the hell out of you lot.
Round.... 5! Ding ding.
How I love these little creatures, not least for the oxygen we breath but also because I get to annoy the hell out of you lot.
Round.... 5! Ding ding.
I have my UV so the pump and return are both in the DT main area. IS that right or should the exhaust go down the overflow to my sock?
I am looking to add some diversity to my biosphere. Is Fiji Reef Mud the right thing to get? Where can I buy diatom cultures or other such to add to my war chest?
http://ipsf.com/plankton.html hows this look?
Make sure to clean your UV. The sleeve gets sediment on it and the effectiveness decreases a LOT. I had thought to add a prefilter. Why not? You can then just toss that in the trash once in a while. Should help keep the tube much cleaner longer and filter the dinos to some degree.
I am looking to add some diversity to my biosphere. Is Fiji Reef Mud the right thing to get? Where can I buy diatom cultures or other such to add to my war chest?
http://ipsf.com/plankton.html hows this look?
Make sure to clean your UV. The sleeve gets sediment on it and the effectiveness decreases a LOT. I had thought to add a prefilter. Why not? You can then just toss that in the trash once in a while. Should help keep the tube much cleaner longer and filter the dinos to some degree.
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I agree. I am also questioning the effectiveness of 90,000uW vs 180,000uW, and I think that is probably what's fueling my fire here to keep asking questions. For arguments sake, if 180k is 4x more effective (to pick an arbitrary number) - i wonder if the AquaUV unit is capable of achieving that? I guess I have to dig into the math about how the uW is calculated.
I certainly agree with you about flow rate at a required 'x' exposure/dosage, and I certainly value your first hand experience. Having none myself, it is nice to hear examples of others who have actually been there done that.
Javamahn
Active Member
Has anyone moved their livestock to a new tank without bringing Dinos? I want to QT all my fish and corals while they wait for the new tank to cycle. I will bleach and vinegar the skimmer and pump which are the only 2 filtration items coming along but I am not sure how to treat the livestock while in QT to prevent them being a vector to the new system. Anyone? The current system has amphinidium which has proven extremely resistant to H2O2, N03-Po4 dosing, 85 watts of UV, Ozone,siphoning,sandbed removal.... It has been a 4 month battle that is a standoff.
Deezill
Valuable Member
So has anyone tried Dino-X from BRS or is a UV the only way to beat dinos? I am definitely going to increase my nutrients but BRS UV are expensive. I have a 150g tank which translates to a UV with big cost $$$$. Let me know Thanks.
Deezill
Valuable Member
I
1.) what size is your tank?
2.) what size UV do you have?
3.) Did you get it from BRS?
4.) Must UV be connected to DT or can it be in sump?
may have missed it within an aforementioned post but
1.) what size is your tank?
2.) what size UV do you have?
3.) Did you get it from BRS?
4.) Must UV be connected to DT or can it be in sump?
Beardo
Well-Known Member
In the end Dino-x did not work for me though initially I though it was working. There was a negative response in my corals from it.
Do you know which type of dinos you are dealing with?
On the UV side, there are cheaper options if you are just looking for a temporary setup.
Deezill
Valuable Member
I don't have a microscope I just know they are hairy and brown. Peroxide worked for a while but it seems now like there is little effect using it. I have also tried vibrant but that did not help either. Rebooting is not an option because I know they will come right back
I ordered some KNO3 from Amazon because my nitrates are undetectable so I am going to raise my nutrients up a tad and I guess get a UV. What type of UV would you guys put on a 150 tall tank?
This seems to be the million dollar question lately. I've yet to see a clear answer on this as there are tons of opinions on both it's effectiveness and ineffectiveness; I'm eagerly following along!
Beardo
Well-Known Member
The caveat with UV is that it is effective on some species of dinos but not all species. This is where ID is beneficial.
Assuming you have a type that UV is effective against, then I would shoot for something in the 0.5 watts per gallon range (I have seen some people successful with units smaller than this but for the majority, myself included this sizing guideline worked). As far as brands it depends. If you want to put a UV on the tank temporarily just to take care of dinos. I would go with something cheap like a Jebao. If they dont have a large enough unit then plumb 2 in series and still not be out too much money. If you want a permanent install then I would look at the better brands such as AquaUV or Pentair.
UV is just a tool and I would still work on mainting proper nutrient levels to build diversity.
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