Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

fishbox

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Doesn't sound like conventional dino's if they're complimenting a hair algae bloom. Sounds like more hair algae, so I'd say proceed as planned. ;)
Actually what is crazy is that the dino bloom started when my nutrients were extremely high. I mean they didn't even register on any of my test kits and I did not have hair algae at that time nor did I have a microscope to confirm the species of dinos. So I added a chaeto reactor and the dinos disappeared for a while. However then the chaeto reactor sucked up all the nutrients to zero and at that point the hair algae got out of control and the Dinos came back. That's when I went and got a microscope and confirm that they were Coolia. Which brings me to where I'm at today LOL.
 
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mcarroll

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It would be interesting to know if it was also Coolia on the first round before the nutrient crash.
 

fishbox

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Anyone have a good dosing calculator for raising Po4 using Disodium Phosphate? All the calculators that I've run across are based on using Potassium Phosphate.
 
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mcarroll

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You should've gotten a product that has a calculator. ;) What do you know about the product you have? Concentration? (What brand if there is one?)
 

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Randy Holmes-Farley

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sevitz5

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CF066DE1-B29F-4E78-B966-E000B18AB1B5.jpeg
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Guys, I’m soooooo confused. This is actually the 3rd 200+ post thread I have read in the last day and a half. I have what I believe to be Dino’s in my 110, and just want to know what seems to work best. My LFS has me dosing 1ml of peroxide per 10gal twice a day. Here are my params:
Ph 8.2
PO4 .058
NO3 0
Alk 8.4
Ca 459
I just want to know what seems to work for most people.

D9A93D33-79BE-4D85-986D-877DB994622C.jpeg
 

Javamahn

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Here is what seems to have worked so far.
1. Proper identification of the exact strain of dinoflagellates using a microscope and not a guess using an iPhone picture. Different strains require different responses.
2. Raising NO3 and PO4 to levels that will allow something besides dinos to become established and crowd out.
3. Depending on the strain UV steralizers at a minimum of 1 watt per 2 gallons of water with lowest flow pump for that UV placed in the tank.
4. Hard work daily cleaning and siphoning and mechanically removing as much Dino as you can
5. Patience Patience and more patience.
6. Following this thread and reading it. Not reading a bit or a part but All because a lot of past theories and practices have been proven wrong and some new ones have been discovered. And the very first pinned post has information that gets skipped but is important.
7. Did I mention patience.
 

PanchoG

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CF066DE1-B29F-4E78-B966-E000B18AB1B5.jpeg
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AFC269A2-97DB-40B0-AB1E-3F82DED240EA.jpeg
AFC269A2-97DB-40B0-AB1E-3F82DED240EA.jpeg
Guys, I’m soooooo confused. This is actually the 3rd 200+ post thread I have read in the last day and a half. I have what I believe to be Dino’s in my 110, and just want to know what seems to work best. My LFS has me dosing 1ml of peroxide per 10gal twice a day. Here are my params:
Ph 8.2
PO4 .058
NO3 0
Alk 8.4
Ca 459
I just want to know what seems to work for most people.

D9A93D33-79BE-4D85-986D-877DB994622C.jpeg

Buy a powerful UV sterilizer and vacuum them from the surfaces, what it will not be removed will end up in the UV and killed. If they are sensitive to light you may try also a 3 days black out combined with the UV and cleaning. I just beat my dinos using these steps with a 35 W UV sterilizer (Mr. Aqua). Good luck.
 

dwest

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Here is what seems to have worked so far.
1. Proper identification of the exact strain of dinoflagellates using a microscope and not a guess using an iPhone picture. Different strains require different responses.
2. Raising NO3 and PO4 to levels that will allow something besides dinos to become established and crowd out.
3. Depending on the strain UV steralizers at a minimum of 1 watt per 2 gallons of water with lowest flow pump for that UV placed in the tank.
4. Hard work daily cleaning and siphoning and mechanically removing as much Dino as you can
5. Patience Patience and more patience.
6. Following this thread and reading it. Not reading a bit or a part but All because a lot of past theories and practices have been proven wrong and some new ones have been discovered. And the very first pinned post has information that gets skipped but is important.
7. Did I mention patience.
I would also make sure to run fresh GAC weekly to prevent animal death due to toxins.
 

platax88

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First, I'd like to thank you all for this informative thread. I think I have narrowed down that I indeed have dinos, however I cant identify which strain (Coolia??). Can any of you confirm based on this video I've posted:


Params are as follows:

Alk: 7.7
Cal: 420
Mag: 1380
No3: 0
Ph4: 0

I've purchased NeoNitro to see if i can start bumping no3 a bit to start with and will look into raising ph4 as well. Am I on the right track? Here is a horrible pic as well if it will help ... any advice is appreaciated:

IMG_2064.jpg
 

Huntor0

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O no Platax88 not you too!!

It looks like Coolia to me as well but I am sure someone more knowledgeable will respond soon.
 

taricha

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I cant identify which strain (Coolia??). Can any of you confirm based on this video I've posted:


Alk: 7.7
Cal: 420
Mag: 1380
No3: 0
Ph4: 0

I've purchased NeoNitro to see if i can start bumping no3 a bit to start with and will look into raising ph4 as well. Am I on the right track? Here is a horrible pic as well if it will help ... any advice is appreaciated:
I agree on coolia.
Going in the right direction.
I'd elevate P before N though. Corals often have a negative reaction to elevated nitrate while being phosphate- starved.
 

taricha

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Thanks. Any advice on how to raise ph4? Also doing 24hr blackout and running a 55watt uv
People have used Seachem Flourish Phosphorus, trisodium phosphate, some potassium phosphate combo etc.

While running UV, and (short duration) low light - blast surfaces to push more cells into the water.
 

platax88

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People have used Seachem Flourish Phosphorus, trisodium phosphate, some potassium phosphate combo etc.

While running UV, and (short duration) low light - blast surfaces to push more cells into the water.

Thanks. I have purchased Flourish phosphorus and NeoNitro. My plan is to dose these products and get nutrients to .03 ph4 and 2ppm no3. I’ll continue running Vu and blasting the basterds into the water column. When I see them subsiding I will reseed the tank with pods. Sound like the right course of action? Please give feedback on the nutrient levels I’m aiming for!
 

taricha

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Thanks. I have purchased Flourish phosphorus and NeoNitro. My plan is to dose these products and get nutrients to .03 ph4 and 2ppm no3. I’ll continue running Vu and blasting the basterds into the water column. When I see them subsiding I will reseed the tank with pods. Sound like the right course of action? Please give feedback on the nutrient levels I’m aiming for!
Most find better results a bit higher - 0.10 PO4 and 5-10 NO3. (Every tank is different)
I'd also run GAC for toxin reduction, and wait until you see some resurgence of micro-life or positive change in coral behavior as signal that toxic effects are past and it's clear to add pods.
 

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