Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

taricha

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h2o2 helps? I dosed only 1 value and I didn't see any improvements.
Peroxide is generally not helpful long-term. It does not target dinos more specifically than others, and likely halts their competitors at least as much.
 
Corals.com

taricha

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And silica?
It can work well to support a diatoms as competitors to dinos, but it's unnecessary for osteopsis. For Dinos that are primarily in the sand, silica seems to be more helpful. The competition there is more direct.
 

Gildo

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It can work well to support a diatoms as competitors to dinos, but it's unnecessary for osteopsis. For Dinos that are primarily in the sand, silica seems to be more helpful. The competition there is more direct.
Here they are better! seen moving! ID Osteopsis!
 

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Kindred

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is this Dino or something else? got it scrapping my glass....

sorry can’t get video to post :/
 
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gatohoser

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Here we are again a few months later. Been having something unidentified killing off my corals. I had an issue with sole brown algae growing in my RoDi mechanical filtration out in the sun and then in my brute mixing can which I’ve resolved but now this. Nitrates dropped to around 1 ppm at one point from their typical of around 5 ppm but phosphate is always between 0.03and 0.1 ppm where I maintain it through Polyp Booster feeding of corals.

can you guys verify these as Dinos for me again?

B1FF5163-0512-4BFF-A429-0F3ED330D1ED.jpeg 859EC15D-6EB9-4D10-83C8-2E7295B7B99D.jpeg
 

piranhaman00

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Hi I would like some input on Dinos!

I had a pretty good (or bad) outbreak of dinos a few months ago, all over rocks and sand bed ect. Increased nutrients and added phyto. They almost all disappeared after a while. Last week I added a 15 watt AquaUV sterilizer That I’m running 24/7 right in the display. This seemed to help a little but I am still seeing there little bubbles forming on my rocks After the photo period. They are barely noticeable but I want the satisfaction of them being undetectable.

does it just take a while for them all to go away? Is there anything else I can be doing?

65 gallon, 10 hr photo period
NO3-5ppm
PO4- 0.05-0.1ppm
15 watt sterilizer

thanks for any help!
 

saltyhog

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Here we are again a few months later. Been having something unidentified killing off my corals. I had an issue with sole brown algae growing in my RoDi mechanical filtration out in the sun and then in my brute mixing can which I’ve resolved but now this. Nitrates dropped to around 1 ppm at one point from their typical of around 5 ppm but phosphate is always between 0.03and 0.1 ppm where I maintain it through Polyp Booster feeding of corals.

can you guys verify these as Dinos for me again?

B1FF5163-0512-4BFF-A429-0F3ED330D1ED.jpeg 859EC15D-6EB9-4D10-83C8-2E7295B7B99D.jpeg

Definitely dinos. Look like coolia to me but let's tag our expert @taricha
 

saltyhog

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Hi I would like some input on Dinos!

I had a pretty good (or bad) outbreak of dinos a few months ago, all over rocks and sand bed ect. Increased nutrients and added phyto. They almost all disappeared after a while. Last week I added a 15 watt AquaUV sterilizer That I’m running 24/7 right in the display. This seemed to help a little but I am still seeing there little bubbles forming on my rocks After the photo period. They are barely noticeable but I want the satisfaction of them being undetectable.

does it just take a while for them all to go away? Is there anything else I can be doing?

65 gallon, 10 hr photo period
NO3-5ppm
PO4- 0.05-0.1ppm
15 watt sterilizer

thanks for any help!

Do you know what type of dino you have?

I would keep your parameters right where you have them. Other things to consider trying would be adding biodiversity anyway possible...I like adding bacterial cultures (such as Dr. Tim's Waste Away), Microbacter7, etc), dosing silcates (Sponge Excel is a good source).

Your UV is a little undersized for your tank, how much flow do you have going through it? If it is a UV susceptible species you can try a short black out (for me that just meant no lights for 36 hours) and blowing them off the rocks and sand with a turkey baster to encourage them in to the water column for elimination by the UV.

It does take some time most often to get them completely undetectable to the eye. However, I doubt we ever eliminate them 100% if we look hard enough and know where to look. That is ok as they were likely there and like that long before the proliferated due to something like low nutrients.
 

piranhaman00

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Do you know what type of dino you have?

I would keep your parameters right where you have them. Other things to consider trying would be adding biodiversity anyway possible...I like adding bacterial cultures (such as Dr. Tim's Waste Away), Microbacter7, etc), dosing silcates (Sponge Excel is a good source).

Your UV is a little undersized for your tank, how much flow do you have going through it? If it is a UV susceptible species you can try a short black out (for me that just meant no lights for 36 hours) and blowing them off the rocks and sand with a turkey baster to encourage them in to the water column for elimination by the UV.

It does take some time most often to get them completely undetectable to the eye. However, I doubt we ever eliminate them 100% if we look hard enough and know where to look. That is ok as they were likely there and like that long before the proliferated due to something like low nutrients.
I am not sure on the type. imo the UV is adequately sized, I’m running 240gph through it which is turning the tank over 3.5 times/hr at close to 90,000 uw/cm2, this should easily be enough power to take them out. However, ke you said though I’m not even sure if they are impacted by UV, not sure how some cannot be?

Is there a known uw/cm2 for dinos out there?

That does make sense they are always kind of around, just not exploding out of proportion. I will try the blackout, how does this affect corals?

thanks!
 

saltyhog

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Actually the recommendations for dinos is different than for algae and other pests. Those recommendations are 1 watt/3 gallons of system volume (that would be about 20 watt for your tank) and flow at 1-3 times system volume/hour. I tend to trend towards the lower half of the flow rate.....say 120 gph for your tank. Contact time with the UV is the most important factor with dinos.
 

taricha

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can you guys verify these as Dinos for me again?
Where did the video sample come from? sandbed? rocks higher up?
In the vid I see majority likely coolia, with maybe 20% ostreopsis. The low amount of movement is strange.
 

taricha

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does it just take a while for them all to go away? Is there anything else I can be doing?
If making slow progress, you might avoid dosing phyto. It seems to be detrimental in at least as many cases as it's helpful. Dying, trapped phyto cells can support a dino bloom, or can feed pods that succumb to dino mucus/toxins. Long story short, it can fuel dinos further. (In a test tank it did for me).
 

gatohoser

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Where did the video sample come from? sandbed? rocks higher up?
In the vid I see majority likely coolia, with maybe 20% ostreopsis. The low amount of movement is strange.
I thought it was weird that most weren’t moving also. I previously had ostreopsis IIRC. They moved. This was taken from some reddish brown stringy mucusy algae on the sand. It’s mostly on the sand but there’s huge amounts of mucus all over the rocks now too.
 

taricha

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This was taken from some reddish brown stringy mucusy algae on the sand. It’s mostly on the sand but there’s huge amounts of mucus all over the rocks now too.
Polyp booster is an amino acid blend. When I try to grow dinos, I use amino acids. Gives lots of mucus-y dinos. Avoid for now.
 

piranhaman00

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Actually the recommendations for dinos is different than for algae and other pests. Those recommendations are 1 watt/3 gallons of system volume (that would be about 20 watt for your tank) and flow at 1-3 times system volume/hour. I tend to trend towards the lower half of the flow rate.....say 120 gph for your tank. Contact time with the UV is the most important factor with dinos.
1 watt per 3 gallons is useless information. A UV rated watt is different between each and every UV system. What we need is uw/cm2 data. For example, an A.A. green killing machine is 24 watts but that UV is not capable of any sterilization on any size tank because the UV is not rated high enough and the contact time too short. Also the Jebao 55 watt is considerably weaker then most “high end” UV because, again, very low rated UV, just because it sucks a lot of power doesn’t make it a better sterilizer. Yet another example is the Turbo Twist UV, very ineffective because the water flow moves too far from bulb at corners, rendering its UV copability marginally past “clarify” and no where close to being able to sterilize.

And a flow of 1-3 times per hour is arbitrary. That would make the size of the UV 1-3 times different uw/cm2. The tank should be turned over 3 times minimum to have any effect from my reading.
 

taricha

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1 watt per 3 gallons is useless information. A UV rated watt is different between each and every UV system. What we need is uw/cm2 data. For example, an A.A. green killing machine is 24 watts but that UV is not capable of any sterilization on any size tank because the UV is not rated high enough and the contact time too short. Also the Jebao 55 watt is considerably weaker then most “high end” UV because, again, very low rated UV, just because it sucks a lot of power doesn’t make it a better sterilizer.
You're correct in that our dumb rule of thumb for UV and dinos is dumb.
But it's worked quite well in the context of the dinos thread whereas manufacturer recommendations and specs did not predict success very well, so we kept it dumb.
And the cheap junk UVs you mentioned: green killing machine, and Jebao 55 have been used effectively by many people in here, whereas some very high quality UVs weren't effective vs dinos in medium to larger tank volume.
(You can do a quick search in the thread for the Jebao 55 people who've found much success with it.)
 

piranhaman00

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You're correct in that our dumb rule of thumb for UV and dinos is dumb.
But it's worked quite well in the context of the dinos thread whereas manufacturer recommendations and specs did not predict success very well, so we kept it dumb.
And the cheap junk UVs you mentioned: green killing machine, and Jebao 55 have been used effectively by many people in here, whereas some very high quality UVs weren't effective vs dinos in medium to larger tank volume.
(You can do a quick search in the thread for the Jebao 55 people who've found much success with it.)
Gotcha! I replied immediately when I woke up so I hope that didnt come off as snarky ;) I was just confused/concerned about that advice, I understand completely where you are coming from, keeping it simple.

I have to get a picture of them and see if someone can ID.
 

mario4933

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Hello everyone! I been reading this page to inform myself and was wondering if anyone could give me an id.

@taricha I took some samples today and did all the tests you mentioned on post 986 and 987 but couldn’t get an ID do a fellow Reefer helped me out with his microscope...

here is what we found

68F272F8-EC49-4382-8DDE-0B86D179D341.jpeg
DF374061-E363-4997-B37C-39163634E28C.jpeg
877AFFBC-691C-4FE7-AAB7-33C2E59E8A59.jpeg
F0B71D3E-3FFC-47B5-B597-2FC0D484D886.jpeg
 

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