Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

ktn87

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For those who dose ESV B-Ionic you might want to stop doing that in addition to no water changes. Part 2 replenishes iron, zinc, and manganese which are micro nutrients for plants.

I also noticed that the nutritional charts for some Nori seaweed listed those 3 elements as well.
 

dwest

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I'm curious for you and others...do you have yours hooked up running in/out of your display or in your sump?
Mine goes in and out of DT. I tried my sump it didn’t work at the time. I’ve been hesitant to try again.
 

primoleo

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Just an update, it might be useful for other people.
I raised phosphates from around 0.00 to 0.1 mg/L with DIY potassium phosphate.
I installed a UV sterilizer in DT.
Removed many dino by filtering water trough 180 micron filter bags.
Will dose phytoplankton (as soon as I get it from AlgaeBarn).

It's much, much better now but in the meanwhile I lost few SPS colonies, many frags lost their color and browned out.
 
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matic

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Hi guys,

I hope someone can help me; I have been battling dino's for over two years, in those 2 years I only had a couple of months that where dino free. About 1 1/2 months ago I did the Elegance coral regime and my tank was clear for about 2 weeks ago, sinds then my sand is brown again. I did the regime again but this time it didnt do anything so I checked under an microscope to see what was going on. Under the microscope I see dino's again (amphidium i think) but I also see diatoms, worms and a lot of brown "branching" algea. I hope someone can advise me what to do now?

Combat the diatoms with silicate semoval with gfo?
Remove nutrients trying to starve the brown coral?
Let it ride out?

I am now raising the nutrients by running the skimmer without the cup, so far nutrients stay @ 0. I think the silicate level is high at this moment, before the Elegance regime I added sponge excel to try to get a diatom bloom to battle with the dino's, I never got alot of diatoms... The algea doesn't go away at night.

Sorry for my English, its not my native language.





F93877F5-EF6B-4C8D-8A58-AFC2C376E749.jpeg
 

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taricha

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For those who dose ESV B-Ionic you might want to stop doing that in addition to no water changes. Part 2 replenishes iron, zinc, and manganese which are micro nutrients for plants.

I also noticed that the nutritional charts for some Nori seaweed listed those 3 elements as well.
Great point. I found seachem reef fusion to be in the same boat.
"Reef Fusion 1 provides not only 100, 000 mg/L of ionic calcium, but also includes biologically appropriate levels of magnesium, strontium, boron, iron, manganese, and molybdenum."

And a few people have reported that feeding nori caused such a rapid increase in dinos when they had been stagnant before, that they were convinced the nori was actually covered in dino cysts. Of course the nori was clean under the microscope, and it was actually likely the rich blend of trace elements in the seaweed.

I see dino's again (amphidium i think)
This indeed looks like amphidinium.
 

drawman

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A couple of my acro frags are getting beat up by my ostreopsis dinos. I have a UV coming this week but I'm thinking of doing H202 dips on the frags to give them relief. I've been brushing dinos off with a toothbrush but they definitely come back hard in less than 24hrs.
 

Deepseadan

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I just checked my phosphates and Nitrates and both are at zero and I don’t have an algae problem. Just Dinos. So I’m going to kick up feeding a bit and add some nitrates. So I’ve read that I can add flourish nitrogen and possibly spectacide stump remover from Lowe’s. I’m a little nervous about throwing spectracide in my tank, do you fellow reefers feel it’s safe and really truly is only potassium nitrate and not other stuff?
 

dwest

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I just checked my phosphates and Nitrates and both are at zero and I don’t have an algae problem. Just Dinos. So I’m going to kick up feeding a bit and add some nitrates. So I’ve read that I can add flourish nitrogen and possibly spectacide stump remover from Lowe’s. I’m a little nervous about throwing spectracide in my tank, do you fellow reefers feel it’s safe and really truly is only potassium nitrate and not other stuff?
Many have used the stump remover. I used this (but get a smaller bottle):
 

taricha

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A couple of my acro frags are getting beat up by my ostreopsis dinos. I have a UV coming this week but I'm thinking of doing H202 dips on the frags to give them relief.
Look back on the last page or two for discussions of filter floss. Great way to keep dinos off coral.

I just checked my phosphates and Nitrates and both are at zero and I don’t have an algae problem. Just Dinos. So I’m going to kick up feeding a bit and add some nitrates.
Don't elevate nitrate while phosphate is zero. It's more stressful for corals than the reverse.
Over feeding is slow and ineffective compared to dosing.
Flourish phosphorus is a good source. Many others also.
 

Gildo

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Good evening,
I have some doubts about the filter floss! Idon't knowing perfectly the language and I would not like to have misunderstood, how to do. Can you put a picture?

Wanting to add pods, which are the best species to be inserted against the dino? (we do not find products like 5280 pods, but the individual species are found)

last question, what do you mean by "turkey baster"?
 

cobra2326

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I've had Dino's for a while now, but I haven't really been paying attention to my tank. It's just a 10g Nuvo Fusion coral-only. When this started, I was feeding Reef Roids daily, but my Nitrates and Phosphates were at zero. I noticed dinos in the fuge first, growing on the Chaeto, but they then spread to my main tank.

I got one of the $12 microscopes and took some really crappy photos. Is this Ostreopsis?

IMG_1311.jpg


I have a Green Killing Machine 9W UV running in the display, my Phosphates are currently at 0.22, Nitrates at 1.5-ish. I'm also floating filter floss in the display and changing it daily to export Dino's. Been doing this for a week or so and things really aren't improving. One thing I have noticed is it seems like they get worse whenever I dose Nitrate. Should I stop doing that? The post about N : P << redfield ratio makes me think I should keep them at just detectable, but no higher than say 1.0?

Here's the tank in it's current, ugly state. Plenty of algae, but the Dino's seem to love growing on it. When it gets bad, the algae starts turning white and the Dino's seem to be feeding off of it:

IMG_1192.jpg
 

dwest

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I've had Dino's for a while now, but I haven't really been paying attention to my tank. It's just a 10g Nuvo Fusion coral-only. When this started, I was feeding Reef Roids daily, but my Nitrates and Phosphates were at zero. I noticed dinos in the fuge first, growing on the Chaeto, but they then spread to my main tank.

I got one of the $12 microscopes and took some really crappy photos. Is this Ostreopsis?

IMG_1311.jpg


I have a Green Killing Machine 9W UV running in the display, my Phosphates are currently at 0.22, Nitrates at 1.5-ish. I'm also floating filter floss in the display and changing it daily to export Dino's. Been doing this for a week or so and things really aren't improving. One thing I have noticed is it seems like they get worse whenever I dose Nitrate. Should I stop doing that? The post about N : P << redfield ratio makes me think I should keep them at just detectable, but no higher than say 1.0?

Here's the tank in it's current, ugly state. Plenty of algae, but the Dino's seem to love growing on it. When it gets bad, the algae starts turning white and the Dino's seem to be feeding off of it:

IMG_1192.jpg
You should be good. Keep nitrates and phosphates measurable to encourage algae. You have some ostreopsis, but if your like many of us, you might have others as well. Keep uv going, suck out the algae, blow rocks to encourage dinos to go into water so UV can help.
 

fluidimagery

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Hi @taricha is this ostreopsis?
565E640F-1870-4434-860B-7110A8312FE1.jpeg


I’m currently on my 7th dose of DinoX. The Dinos have significantly reduced but not completely gone. I also had a couple SPS bleach and lost a few Euphyllia while dosing DinoX.

@fluidimagery I noticed that you are using Orphek Atlantik V4. I broke out with Dinos after I installed these lights (not sure if the spectrum has a way of catalyzing dinos).
Sorry... I never saw this. I was wondering the same regarding the lights when it first started happening. I had the mode set to Slow Acclimation originally, then bumped the power up since I never really saw much grow in the tank. The Dinos started shortly after. I can't blame the lights - I see many beautiful reefs with Orphek's over them. The root of the issue I feel was bottoming out the nutrients using GFO, Doing NoPOx, Carbon, Algae Scrubber and Skimmer.

Once I got the positive ID, I added a UV to the display, removed everything but the Skimmer and ran a small bag of carbon for about a month and saw a very noticeable improvement. I moved the UV down to the sump and started running the Algea Scrubber again a few days ago. I've never seen my corals look so good - noticing good growth and great polyp extension. I'm reading some good NO3 (5) and PO4 (.08) numbers now.

About 2 weeks ago I changed up the lighting schedule again - followed this post - https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/what’s-your-orphek-atlantik-v4.428124/
The colors look great.

End of the story -- I don't think the lights were ever the issue, it was me bottoming out NO3 and PO4, then dosing chemicals etc to fix my mistakes. Went back to basics.
 

ACF930

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Sorry... I never saw this. I was wondering the same regarding the lights when it first started happening. I had the mode set to Slow Acclimation originally, then bumped the power up since I never really saw much grow in the tank. The Dinos started shortly after. I can't blame the lights - I see many beautiful reefs with Orphek's over them. The root of the issue I feel was bottoming out the nutrients using GFO, Doing NoPOx, Carbon, Algae Scrubber and Skimmer.

Once I got the positive ID, I added a UV to the display, removed everything but the Skimmer and ran a small bag of carbon for about a month and saw a very noticeable improvement. I moved the UV down to the sump and started running the Algea Scrubber again a few days ago. I've never seen my corals look so good - noticing good growth and great polyp extension. I'm reading some good NO3 (5) and PO4 (.08) numbers now.

About 2 weeks ago I changed up the lighting schedule again - followed this post - https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/what’s-your-orphek-atlantik-v4.428124/
The colors look great.

End of the story -- I don't think the lights were ever the issue, it was me bottoming out NO3 and PO4, then dosing chemicals etc to fix my mistakes. Went back to basics.
I have a frag tank and DT plumbed into the same sump. The frag tank is new and includes only frag racks and the Orphek V4; it broke out with Dinos immediately after launch. On the other hand, my DT is established with over 100 lbs of Florida Gulf Live Rock, Live Sand, and running Ocean Revive LED; it never had Dinos in all its history.

However, after dosing DinoX (for 8 rounds) and doing a water change to reverse, my DT now has Dinos for the first time, so the lights might not be the culprit. I am wondering if my DT (with the live rock) had a greater pods, biodiversity, and microbes population - and the DinoX wiped some of them out. As much as this sucks now, this could be a clue.

Would sufficient Live Rock be a good defense against Dinos?
 
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