Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

DesertReefT4r

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From what I understand, the small cell amphidinium does go into the water column. Based on what I've seen in my scope, I would agree that these are small cell, since they are about a quarter of the size of the larger ostreopsis. Is that not accurate?
I would agree and is why I thinkmit may be small cell amphidinium. If you have no sand the UV may work better on the amphidinium since they tend to say in the sand. Im no expert but have eliminated the normal large cell amphidinium from my tank.
 

DesertReefT4r

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If I have a reefer 250 (54g DT + 11g sump), do I go with an 18 or a 36W UV?
Rule is 3w per gallon for best results. That would be 21 watts. 18 watts should be enough to be effective since after rock and sand if you use sand you will loose at least 5 gallons of volume. 36 watts will be that much more effective though if price is not an issue over the 2.
 

LC8Sumi

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Rule is 3w per gallon for best results. That would be 21 watts. 18 watts should be enough to be effective since after rock and sand if you use sand you will loose at least 5 gallons of volume. 36 watts will be that much more effective though if price is not an issue over the 2.
I'll grab the 36W, if the only issue with it is price.
 

Putrescine

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Well, this is not a good first post. I have been lurking the forums a while. My tank is 3 months old, made with dry rock. Went through the diatom phase. Was dosing nopox early, and have tested my NO3 and Phos daily and had numbers 0-0.2 for nitrates and 0.01-0.02 for phosphates. Never noticed any hair algae ever. Then got red cyano a month ago. Dosed Chemiclean and followed protocol which completely cleared the entire tank of cyano. Skimmer went nuts for a week and had carbon which allowed the skimmer to behave itself.

Nitrates still 0.02, phos was 0.07 today. Over the past week, gradually getting a brown dusting which turned into brown strings which reminded me honestly of cyano the way it looks in certain patches. Brought out the mircoscope, and need help with ID. Havent really started anything yet, but planning on dosing some nitrate to start.

6342DDA8-8FC5-4469-947B-965E0F301FB4.jpeg
7CC5C8A2-3160-416C-A0C6-E85ED08D9548.jpeg
B0A65989-E301-4343-B751-596EDF4EA1E0.jpeg
 

ScottB

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Well, this is not a good first post. I have been lurking the forums a while. My tank is 3 months old, made with dry rock. Went through the diatom phase. Was dosing nopox early, and have tested my NO3 and Phos daily and had numbers 0-0.2 for nitrates and 0.01-0.02 for phosphates. Never noticed any hair algae ever. Then got red cyano a month ago. Dosed Chemiclean and followed protocol which completely cleared the entire tank of cyano. Skimmer went nuts for a week and had carbon which allowed the skimmer to behave itself.

Nitrates still 0.02, phos was 0.07 today. Over the past week, gradually getting a brown dusting which turned into brown strings which reminded me honestly of cyano the way it looks in certain patches. Brought out the mircoscope, and need help with ID. Havent really started anything yet, but planning on dosing some nitrate to start.

6342DDA8-8FC5-4469-947B-965E0F301FB4.jpeg
7CC5C8A2-3160-416C-A0C6-E85ED08D9548.jpeg
B0A65989-E301-4343-B751-596EDF4EA1E0.jpeg

I definitely see procentrum in each pic. First pic bottom left also shows one ostreopsis cell. (The almond shaped one)

We treat both species the same:
Raise NO3 and PO4 to 10 to 15 and .1 or more. (put the NoPox away)
Install UV at 1 watt per three gallons into/out of display
Stir the stuff up as often as possible so it goes through UV
hang a bunch of filter floss on sides of tank in high light/flow areas. Rinse off each evening.
No water changes until you are clear for 2-4 weeks.
 

Seanybaggs123

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Hi there,

First, thank you so much for posting this sticky and organizing these articles in one place. I just noticed Dinos last night, and realized what they where this morning. I have the variety that bubbles on the rocks and can be blown off. I'm a relatively new reefer and a bit overwhelmed by all that I read. So, I was hoping to post my plan here for criticism.

It's worth noting that I have 0 phosphates, 0 nitrates, and dosed amino acids (reef roids) for the first time last week. Also, I have a lot of diatoms. Also, My lights are on the recommended 10 hour schedule from reefbrite (LED's).

My plan:
  1. Turned off the GFO and Carbon Reactor this morning, and I don't plan to turn them back on, ever, unless I have a problem with phosphates later down the line or need to remove meds
  2. Feed more (currently only once a day for one clownfish, skunk cleaner shrimp, blenny, and CUC)
  3. Daily removal
  4. Replacing the AC powerheads I have now with the Maxspect gyre that I already had coming today, and up the flow.
  5. If necessary and the above isn't working, adding Dr. Tim's Waste Away or Microbacter
Any help is GREATLY Appreciated
 

DesertReefT4r

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Well, this is not a good first post. I have been lurking the forums a while. My tank is 3 months old, made with dry rock. Went through the diatom phase. Was dosing nopox early, and have tested my NO3 and Phos daily and had numbers 0-0.2 for nitrates and 0.01-0.02 for phosphates. Never noticed any hair algae ever. Then got red cyano a month ago. Dosed Chemiclean and followed protocol which completely cleared the entire tank of cyano. Skimmer went nuts for a week and had carbon which allowed the skimmer to behave itself.

Nitrates still 0.02, phos was 0.07 today. Over the past week, gradually getting a brown dusting which turned into brown strings which reminded me honestly of cyano the way it looks in certain patches. Brought out the mircoscope, and need help with ID. Havent really started anything yet, but planning on dosing some nitrate to start.

6342DDA8-8FC5-4469-947B-965E0F301FB4.jpeg
7CC5C8A2-3160-416C-A0C6-E85ED08D9548.jpeg
B0A65989-E301-4343-B751-596EDF4EA1E0.jpeg
I agree with ScottB's ID on the dinos. Few ostreopsis mostly procentrum. For sure increase no3 and po4 to 10ppm and 0.10ppm at a minimum. Get a UV sterilizer ASAP. Dose bacterial like its water to a desert, varied bacteria is good too. Microbacter7, Microbacter Clean, any of the Fritz bacterias, Live Rock Enhance, Biospira all are good. When I use up a bottle I will grab a different one next time, MB7 is always one I use though.
 

DesertReefT4r

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Hi there,

First, thank you so much for posting this sticky and organizing these articles in one place. I just noticed Dinos last night, and realized what they where this morning. I have the variety that bubbles on the rocks and can be blown off. I'm a relatively new reefer and a bit overwhelmed by all that I read. So, I was hoping to post my plan here for criticism.

It's worth noting that I have 0 phosphates, 0 nitrates, and dosed amino acids (reef roids) for the first time last week. Also, I have a lot of diatoms. Also, My lights are on the recommended 10 hour schedule from reefbrite (LED's).

My plan:
  1. Turned off the GFO and Carbon Reactor this morning, and I don't plan to turn them back on, ever, unless I have a problem with phosphates later down the line or need to remove meds
  2. Feed more (currently only once a day for one clownfish, skunk cleaner shrimp, blenny, and CUC)
  3. Daily removal
  4. Replacing the AC powerheads I have now with the Maxspect gyre that I already had coming today, and up the flow.
  5. If necessary and the above isn't working, adding Dr. Tim's Waste Away or Microbacter
Any help is GREATLY Appreciated
First off you need to ID what type of dino you have under magnification. Keep the carbon reactor on with some fresh carbon, dinos release toxins that the carbon will help remove. Dose Neo Nitro and Neo Phos to get no3 and po4 to 10ppm and 0.10ppm. If you have UV get it running on the tank as its highly effective against all but amphidinium dinos. Report back when you can get a good pic under 400x magnification or better.
 

lacrosseboss18

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lacrosseboss18

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I took this sample from the rock structure. The highest part since it was easy to get. It’s in the glass, sand rocks corals...
 

KGrizzel

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Hello everyone! “Long Time reader, first time posting”.... First off, thank you all for sharing all the fun you’re having with Dinos!

I’m hoping someone can help me ID these buggers... I’m thinking procentrum. They remain in the sand bed when the lights are on & migrate to the water column when the lights ramp down/turn off. Manual removal every other day has more or less kept them off the rock work & corals but within 48 hrs the tank is looking like I'm back to square one.

I plan on purchasing/installing a Pentair Aquatics Smart UV 25w sterilizer (about $400 on brs) but I’m wondering if anyone has a different 1 they’ve installed to a Protozoa flow that they would recommend? Preferably less expensive!

In addition to the UV I’m going to open up the roller-mat (allow higher amounts of gunk to bypass the felt pads of the roller-mat) & increase coral & fish feeding.

My pH ranged from 7.7-7.9 for the past few months, I’m slowly bringing it up, currently 7.9-8.1 (goal is 8.2-8.4 by the end of January)

Tank overview :
Red Sea 425 xl (roughly 95 gals water, 80ish lbs of sand, 80ish lbs of Caribsea Life rock.
 

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