Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

[Michael Gray]

Dude, you gotta batten that down a little bit. Looks like a dust mite could knock that over. I really appreciate you sharing the photo, but is it really as precarious as it looks?

Haha the UV itself isn't going anywhere it's tied to the buckets. So that part is secure. I put buckets cause I didn't like the idea of a cheap jebeo uv on floor potentially leaking. So leak points are over a bucket in case. But the tube. That's package taped like heck on the glass so it doesn't fall out lol. Like I said it's ghetto. Lol

 

[ScottB]

Haha the UV itself isn't going anywhere it's tied to the buckets. So that part is secure. I put buckets cause I didn't like the idea of a cheap jebeo uv on floor potentially leaking. So leak points are over a bucket in case. But the tube. That's package taped like heck on the glass so it doesn't fall out lol. Like I said it's ghetto. Lol

Got it. Couldn't see the tape.

Not that my temporary setup is any better looking, trust me.

 

[Michael Gray]

Got it. Couldn't see the tape.

Not that my temporary setup is any better looking, trust me.

Oh it's taped taped taped. And I wanted a bucket under the ends for any small leaks. I didn't like idea of a cheap jebeo uv. But I decided to keep my aquauv in place in the sump. It's an eye sore I hope to only have to run it for a full week. But we'll see if I see any change

 

[Michael Gray]

I've read h2o2 dosing at 1ml per 10 gallons every 12 hours to also help kill Dino's. Should I add this to my equation???

 

[ScottB]

I've read h2o2 dosing at 1ml per 10 gallons every 12 hours to also help kill Dino's. Should I add this to my equation???

I'd say give the UV a week first. If you had large cell amphids in the mix, I'd suggest you don't have much to lose as UV cannot get to them.

If you want to accelerate a little bit you could black out the tank for 24-36 hours.

 

[RyanHoan]

One thing that I 100% believe in now:

It's nearly impossible to raise Phosphates and Nitrates, simply by feeding more.

Dosing is a must! Even then, it takes days to see any increase.

 

[Wxguy23]

Double checking. Which version do I have THIS time?
got some cyno
Got some GHA
NO3 5-0
PO4 .50
75 gal

 

[JayinToronto]

My Dino fight started last summer when I dropped my phosphates hard with a large batch of rowaphos. I was able to get on top of things and solved the problem with the methods mentioned in this thread (elevate phosphates and nitrates and use UV). I kept my phosphate and nitrate levels elevated all winter and the Dino problem shrunk to just a tiny patch on some sand. However with the lengthening days I've noticed a slow increase in the Dino population across my sand. No other variable has changed in my aquarium and my phosphate is still .25. The room that houses my aquarium gets a lot of natural light. Has anyone else noticed this yearly cycle to their dino issues?

 

[Jonathan Iu]

I sweated dinos to the point that I gave up. You know what happened? They eventually went away on there own.

Just thought I would share

That’s going what’s happen to COVID 19. We are sweating so much , eventually it will go away. That’s nature .

 

[nmo0ory]

what is this

is it dino ?

 

[ScottB]

what is this

is it dino ?

Ostreopsis. Good news: very susceptible to UV. Bad news: they produce toxins that kill off competitors, pods, can damage/kill corals.
a) Get a UV, 1 watt per three gallons. Slow flow TO/FROM the display not the sump.
b) Baste regularly; remove manually as much as possible. Clamp or suction cup filter floss in high flow & light areas; rinse each evening.
c) Run some GAC
d) Dose NO3 and PO4 to 10-15 and >.1 respectively
e) Stop all forms of nutrient removal. Dry skim is fine. Very limited fuge lighting if at all.
f) No amino dosing
If you are pulling all of the above levers, you should be clear inside a month.

 

[Wxguy23]

What about these. Which one do I have now?

 

[drawman]

What about these. Which one do I have now?

Looks like ostreopsis to me.

 

[nmo0ory]

Ostreopsis. Good news: very susceptible to UV. Bad news: they produce toxins that kill off competitors, pods, can damage/kill corals.
a) Get a UV, 1 watt per three gallons. Slow flow TO/FROM the display not the sump.
b) Baste regularly; remove manually as much as possible. Clamp or suction cup filter floss in high flow & light areas; rinse each evening.
c) Run some GAC
d) Dose NO3 and PO4 to 10-15 and >.1 respectively
e) Stop all forms of nutrient removal. Dry skim is fine. Very limited fuge lighting if at all.
f) No amino dosing
If you are pulling all of the above levers, you should be clear inside a month.

ok great
i have a uv running already from the sump i will change it now to the tank
for no3 and po4
i am trying to lower it because i want to use zeovit and they say it should be very low in po4 and no3 but i can't control this problem
this week i dose Vibren because i has hair alage could be this the problem ?

 

[ScottB]

ok great
i have a uv running already from the sump i will change it now to the tank
for no3 and po4
i am trying to lower it because i want to use zeovit and they say it should be very low in po4 and no3 but i can't control this problem
this week i dose Vibren because i has hair alage could be this the problem ?

Well the bacteria in Vibrant will consume some amount of the available nutrient in the system. That is counter to the guidance of keeping nutrients high enough to support the growth of competing organisms. For NO3 and PO4, what are your levels and what is your target level? (sorry if u already shared this; I am posting on several threads and losing track.)

Anthony is a zeo guy so I will let him offer some advice on nutrient mgmt under the zeo method.
@ycnibrc can you help a brother/sister out with some advice?

 

[ScottB]

Looks like ostreopsis to me.

agreed.

 

[nmo0ory]

Well the bacteria in Vibrant will consume some amount of the available nutrient in the system. That is counter to the guidance of keeping nutrients high enough to support the growth of competing organisms. For NO3 and PO4, what are your levels and what is your target level? (sorry if u already shared this; I am posting on several threads and losing track.)

Anthony is a zeo guy so I will let him offer some advice on nutrient mgmt under the zeo method.
@ycnibrc can you help a brother/sister out with some advice?

ok my po4 was 0.04
at that time the i stop useing GFO
i just tested it now it was 0
i was going to keep it at 0.04 for month at less then reduce it to 0 as what they advice me to do if i am useing zeo
it might get to 0 becouse i used Vibren iam not sure

 

[ScottB]

ok my po4 was 0.04
at that time the i stop useing GFO
i just tested it now it was 0
i was going to keep it at 0.04 for month at less then reduce it to 0 as what they advice me to do if i am useing zeo
it might get to 0 becouse i used Vibren iam not sure

While natural sea water has very low levels of detectable PO4, there is always some available to the corals at a very low but steady level. Much of it is ingested by corals via uptake of phosphate laden bacteria. Zeo and Tropic Marin (and other) methods seek to replicate that action in our aquariums.

I am surprised to hear that the zeo method suggests 0 measurable PO4. In my experience, that is a death warrant for SPS as they will starve. It also a birthing certificate for dinoflagellates. Again, I am not a Zeo user, but I must encourage you to investigate and confirm that PO4=0 is desirable under this method. Hopefully, @ycnibrc can chime in on this. Check out his staghorn tank using zeo. It is amazing.

I would speculate that while you were OK at .04 of phosphate, the Vibrant bacteria dropped it below that a bit. Then your biome was scrambling to adjust and the dinos always win in nutrient scarce conditions. If your rock is "old" it had some PO4 stored but now even that is gone.

 

[ycnibrc]

Hi there
Zeovit nutrients is low however they ask u to dose a lot. It's a balance system. Between the bacteria, corals and skimmer your tank have a strong nutrients export however dosing ,feeding, fish waste and other waste u are adding back to the system. Dino is a bacteria but it's very good at consuming nutrients to a point that everything else can't compete therefore they are thriving even your test are at zero. U need to raise your nutrients up so others can compete and slow down the dino. Most tank with higher nutrients don't have problem with dino.

 

[drawman]

Hi there
Zeovit nutrients is low however they ask u to dose a lot. It's a balance system. Between the bacteria, corals and skimmer your tank have a strong nutrients export however dosing ,feeding, fish waste and other waste u are adding back to the system. Dino is a bacteria but it's very good at consuming nutrients to a point that everything else can't compete therefore they are thriving even your test are at zero. U need to raise your nutrients up so others can compete and slow down the dino. Most tank with higher nutrients don't have problem with dino.

Dinos are microscopically small but they are not a bacteria