Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

CDavmd

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Thought I would add my experience....for those interested in my saga see my build thread.

Quick Synopsis:

Reefer 425XL started with Marco rock and 10 pounds of ocean live rock from KPaquatics. This was not my first rodeo so I planned a very slow and methodical startup. Start up was March 2019. Four months with lights out and letting pod population explode. Then brought lights online slowly with dim blue and added first fish from my old system that had been running for close to 11-12 years.

During the initial startup I saw a minor diatom bloom which I confirmed under the microscope. A rare small cell dino was seen here and there but that is expected. What was curious were these golden brown round cells all over the sand granules which did not move. I privately corresponded with @taricha and shared my photos and video at that time and he was not sure but was cautiously optimistic that all was ok. The diatom bloom cleared and things continued to mature nicely.

A few weeks later first test corals (some from my old system that at one point had large cell Amphidinium after a NOPOX overdose). All went well and lights came on to normal schedule and tank allowed to mature. SPS added and things took off with great growth and no issues.

I seeded the tank monthly with copepods from algae barn and amphipods from florida pets. I also dosed phyto and fed fairly heavily. My nitrates ran 5-15 and phosphate .07-.15- despite this I never really developed much in terms of turf algae. I would have to scrape the glass every 4-5 days and that was it.

Fish were all quarantined and treated with copper meticulously yet despite all the care and precautions I noted my black cap which I had for over 5 years develop Ich in August. I lost that fish and others became sick. Removed all fish and went fallow for 80 days. During this time I ghost fed and check Nitrate and Phosphate weekly. No bottom out was ever recorded. During this time I added a 15watt Aqua UV unit to my sump manifold feeding back to the sump first chamber.

Corals were absolutely thriving and exploding. Sps had colored up beautifully and grown into small colonies. Fish were re-introduced slowly but just prior to bringing them in, I adjusted the aquascape and decided to add a touch more sand to some thin areas. BOOM! I noted 3 days later-golden brown areas on the new sand. I assumed diatoms but when I checked under the microscope it was both Ostreopsis and Small Cell Amphidinium!!! Ugh! I can only presume adding new sterile sand gave them real estate to exploit and off they went.

I added a small UV unit in the display and increased the flow from my return pump in order to get more into the UV unit in the sump. I siphoned and made sure nutrients were good. Things seemed to improve after a couple weeks but then I noticed some areas on the rock.

I then became aware of my first STN on my green slimer. A few days later another SPS started to STN. I looked at a piece of dead coral skeleton and it was filled with Ostreopsis. I changed the UV unit for a Pentair 25 watt and plumbed it from and to the display. STN continued and I lost most of my SPS :(

Around this time I also noted a bright green turf like growth in the rock crevices. I thought at first it was algae but it blew off and under the microscope it was green cyano!

At this point things were pretty bad off, attempts to frag and save SPS were moot. The Ostreopsis seemed to be improving with the UV but not the small cell Amphidinium. The cyano was taking off.

I tried the Dr. Tims recipe for dinos/ cyano.....things would look good for a few days then return. Multiple blackouts and same result. I tried the Elegant Corals method....same result. I ordered tritons new STN and Cyano treatment and used them....I did not notice any improvement at all.

I finally said screw it and hit the tank with Chemiclean. That got rid of the cyano and it has not come back... I also started dosing a variety of bacteria after that: Dr Tims ecobalance, refresh, waste away, Fritz Turbo, MB7, MB Clean.

Things seemed to improve and the surviving corals started to show growth. Yet there would still be some brown on the sand that would worsen over a weeks period and was confirmed small cell Amphidinium. I continued to weekly siphon and blow out rocks, and things would look good for 3-4 days and then they would come back.

Around this time I got busy at work due to Covid and just left the tank to itself. I fed and checked parameters when I could and dosed some silicates and that's it. Small cell persisted..... not as bad but still there and worsening after 7-10 days.

This brings me to the last couple weeks. I saw the reports of increasing temperature. I remembered that back in the day with MH my tank ran 82 all the time. So I increased the temp by .5 per day until I got to 82.5-83. Its been there for about a week and I have noticed improvement. Sand is clean white in the morning and by late afternoon just slightly discolored in some areas. Under blue light it is more obvious where the small cell is growing and I stir the sand daily especially in those areas. I have increased the flow of the UV unit and I'm hoping that stirring the sand will get more in suspension and into the UV unit. I've also programmed my Apex to run pumps at high for 5 minutes every three hours and get things stirred up. Lastly, I have been dosing peroxide every night 1ml/gallon and in the mornings I add bacteria and turn off the UV and skimmer for 6 hours. Then I stir the sand when the UV unit comes on and again peroxide that night.

I am seeing a significant improvement. No orange brown areas, instead just a slight darkening of the sand as the day progresses. I plan to leave my temps at 82...my corals are liking it and my fish have been more active and hungry. I'm going to continue the peroxide for a total of 10 days and then might just do another blackout for good measure.

I'll post my findings.....hopefully this multi pronged approach will finish them off.
 

drawman

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Thought I would add my experience....for those interested in my saga see my build thread.

Quick Synopsis:

Reefer 425XL started with Marco rock and 10 pounds of ocean live rock from KPaquatics. This was not my first rodeo so I planned a very slow and methodical startup. Start up was March 2019. Four months with lights out and letting pod population explode. Then brought lights online slowly with dim blue and added first fish from my old system that had been running for close to 11-12 years.

During the initial startup I saw a minor diatom bloom which I confirmed under the microscope. A rare small cell dino was seen here and there but that is expected. What was curious were these golden brown round cells all over the sand granules which did not move. I privately corresponded with @taricha and shared my photos and video at that time and he was not sure but was cautiously optimistic that all was ok. The diatom bloom cleared and things continued to mature nicely.

A few weeks later first test corals (some from my old system that at one point had large cell Amphidinium after a NOPOX overdose). All went well and lights came on to normal schedule and tank allowed to mature. SPS added and things took off with great growth and no issues.

I seeded the tank monthly with copepods from algae barn and amphipods from florida pets. I also dosed phyto and fed fairly heavily. My nitrates ran 5-15 and phosphate .07-.15- despite this I never really developed much in terms of turf algae. I would have to scrape the glass every 4-5 days and that was it.

Fish were all quarantined and treated with copper meticulously yet despite all the care and precautions I noted my black cap which I had for over 5 years develop Ich in August. I lost that fish and others became sick. Removed all fish and went fallow for 80 days. During this time I ghost fed and check Nitrate and Phosphate weekly. No bottom out was ever recorded. During this time I added a 15watt Aqua UV unit to my sump manifold feeding back to the sump first chamber.

Corals were absolutely thriving and exploding. Sps had colored up beautifully and grown into small colonies. Fish were re-introduced slowly but just prior to bringing them in, I adjusted the aquascape and decided to add a touch more sand to some thin areas. BOOM! I noted 3 days later-golden brown areas on the new sand. I assumed diatoms but when I checked under the microscope it was both Ostreopsis and Small Cell Amphidinium!!! Ugh! I can only presume adding new sterile sand gave them real estate to exploit and off they went.

I added a small UV unit in the display and increased the flow from my return pump in order to get more into the UV unit in the sump. I siphoned and made sure nutrients were good. Things seemed to improve after a couple weeks but then I noticed some areas on the rock.

I then became aware of my first STN on my green slimer. A few days later another SPS started to STN. I looked at a piece of dead coral skeleton and it was filled with Ostreopsis. I changed the UV unit for a Pentair 25 watt and plumbed it from and to the display. STN continued and I lost most of my SPS :(

Around this time I also noted a bright green turf like growth in the rock crevices. I thought at first it was algae but it blew off and under the microscope it was green cyano!

At this point things were pretty bad off, attempts to frag and save SPS were moot. The Ostreopsis seemed to be improving with the UV but not the small cell Amphidinium. The cyano was taking off.

I tried the Dr. Tims recipe for dinos/ cyano.....things would look good for a few days then return. Multiple blackouts and same result. I tried the Elegant Corals method....same result. I ordered tritons new STN and Cyano treatment and used them....I did not notice any improvement at all.

I finally said screw it and hit the tank with Chemiclean. That got rid of the cyano and it has not come back... I also started dosing a variety of bacteria after that: Dr Tims ecobalance, refresh, waste away, Fritz Turbo, MB7, MB Clean.

Things seemed to improve and the surviving corals started to show growth. Yet there would still be some brown on the sand that would worsen over a weeks period and was confirmed small cell Amphidinium. I continued to weekly siphon and blow out rocks, and things would look good for 3-4 days and then they would come back.

Around this time I got busy at work due to Covid and just left the tank to itself. I fed and checked parameters when I could and dosed some silicates and that's it. Small cell persisted..... not as bad but still there and worsening after 7-10 days.

This brings me to the last couple weeks. I saw the reports of increasing temperature. I remembered that back in the day with MH my tank ran 82 all the time. So I increased the temp by .5 per day until I got to 82.5-83. Its been there for about a week and I have noticed improvement. Sand is clean white in the morning and by late afternoon just slightly discolored in some areas. Under blue light it is more obvious where the small cell is growing and I stir the sand daily especially in those areas. I have increased the flow of the UV unit and I'm hoping that stirring the sand will get more in suspension and into the UV unit. I've also programmed my Apex to run pumps at high for 5 minutes every three hours and get things stirred up. Lastly, I have been dosing peroxide every night 1ml/gallon and in the mornings I add bacteria and turn off the UV and skimmer for 6 hours. Then I stir the sand when the UV unit comes on and again peroxide that night.

I am seeing a significant improvement. No orange brown areas, instead just a slight darkening of the sand as the day progresses. I plan to leave my temps at 82...my corals are liking it and my fish have been more active and hungry. I'm going to continue the peroxide for a total of 10 days and then might just do another blackout for good measure.

I'll post my findings.....hopefully this multi pronged approach will finish them off.
Glad to hear it keep us updated!
 

hotdrop

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Thanks for sharing the scope story. I need to just man up and buy one
 

Nicholas Dushynsky

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Thought I would add my experience....for those interested in my saga see my build thread.

Quick Synopsis:

Reefer 425XL started with Marco rock and 10 pounds of ocean live rock from KPaquatics. This was not my first rodeo so I planned a very slow and methodical startup. Start up was March 2019. Four months with lights out and letting pod population explode. Then brought lights online slowly with dim blue and added first fish from my old system that had been running for close to 11-12 years.

During the initial startup I saw a minor diatom bloom which I confirmed under the microscope. A rare small cell dino was seen here and there but that is expected. What was curious were these golden brown round cells all over the sand granules which did not move. I privately corresponded with @taricha and shared my photos and video at that time and he was not sure but was cautiously optimistic that all was ok. The diatom bloom cleared and things continued to mature nicely.

A few weeks later first test corals (some from my old system that at one point had large cell Amphidinium after a NOPOX overdose). All went well and lights came on to normal schedule and tank allowed to mature. SPS added and things took off with great growth and no issues.

I seeded the tank monthly with copepods from algae barn and amphipods from florida pets. I also dosed phyto and fed fairly heavily. My nitrates ran 5-15 and phosphate .07-.15- despite this I never really developed much in terms of turf algae. I would have to scrape the glass every 4-5 days and that was it.

Fish were all quarantined and treated with copper meticulously yet despite all the care and precautions I noted my black cap which I had for over 5 years develop Ich in August. I lost that fish and others became sick. Removed all fish and went fallow for 80 days. During this time I ghost fed and check Nitrate and Phosphate weekly. No bottom out was ever recorded. During this time I added a 15watt Aqua UV unit to my sump manifold feeding back to the sump first chamber.

Corals were absolutely thriving and exploding. Sps had colored up beautifully and grown into small colonies. Fish were re-introduced slowly but just prior to bringing them in, I adjusted the aquascape and decided to add a touch more sand to some thin areas. BOOM! I noted 3 days later-golden brown areas on the new sand. I assumed diatoms but when I checked under the microscope it was both Ostreopsis and Small Cell Amphidinium!!! Ugh! I can only presume adding new sterile sand gave them real estate to exploit and off they went.

I added a small UV unit in the display and increased the flow from my return pump in order to get more into the UV unit in the sump. I siphoned and made sure nutrients were good. Things seemed to improve after a couple weeks but then I noticed some areas on the rock.

I then became aware of my first STN on my green slimer. A few days later another SPS started to STN. I looked at a piece of dead coral skeleton and it was filled with Ostreopsis. I changed the UV unit for a Pentair 25 watt and plumbed it from and to the display. STN continued and I lost most of my SPS :(

Around this time I also noted a bright green turf like growth in the rock crevices. I thought at first it was algae but it blew off and under the microscope it was green cyano!

At this point things were pretty bad off, attempts to frag and save SPS were moot. The Ostreopsis seemed to be improving with the UV but not the small cell Amphidinium. The cyano was taking off.

I tried the Dr. Tims recipe for dinos/ cyano.....things would look good for a few days then return. Multiple blackouts and same result. I tried the Elegant Corals method....same result. I ordered tritons new STN and Cyano treatment and used them....I did not notice any improvement at all.

I finally said screw it and hit the tank with Chemiclean. That got rid of the cyano and it has not come back... I also started dosing a variety of bacteria after that: Dr Tims ecobalance, refresh, waste away, Fritz Turbo, MB7, MB Clean.

Things seemed to improve and the surviving corals started to show growth. Yet there would still be some brown on the sand that would worsen over a weeks period and was confirmed small cell Amphidinium. I continued to weekly siphon and blow out rocks, and things would look good for 3-4 days and then they would come back.

Around this time I got busy at work due to Covid and just left the tank to itself. I fed and checked parameters when I could and dosed some silicates and that's it. Small cell persisted..... not as bad but still there and worsening after 7-10 days.

This brings me to the last couple weeks. I saw the reports of increasing temperature. I remembered that back in the day with MH my tank ran 82 all the time. So I increased the temp by .5 per day until I got to 82.5-83. Its been there for about a week and I have noticed improvement. Sand is clean white in the morning and by late afternoon just slightly discolored in some areas. Under blue light it is more obvious where the small cell is growing and I stir the sand daily especially in those areas. I have increased the flow of the UV unit and I'm hoping that stirring the sand will get more in suspension and into the UV unit. I've also programmed my Apex to run pumps at high for 5 minutes every three hours and get things stirred up. Lastly, I have been dosing peroxide every night 1ml/gallon and in the mornings I add bacteria and turn off the UV and skimmer for 6 hours. Then I stir the sand when the UV unit comes on and again peroxide that night.

I am seeing a significant improvement. No orange brown areas, instead just a slight darkening of the sand as the day progresses. I plan to leave my temps at 82...my corals are liking it and my fish have been more active and hungry. I'm going to continue the peroxide for a total of 10 days and then might just do another blackout for good measure.

I'll post my findings.....hopefully this multi pronged approach will finish them off.
Thanks for this.
 

Pyrosteve

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I’m on day 12 of elevated temps and I haven’t seen Dinos in a about 5 days. My nutrient levels were going up fast (NO3=25+ PO4= .3) even tho I stopped doing NeoNitro/Phos (probably from my heavy feeding). I started to see a cyano bloom so I tempted fate and dosed LaCl3 (I’m done with GFO) and did a 15% water change on Fri. I’m back down to NO3=10 & Po4=.12. It seemed to work with no ill effects. I was actually considering bottoming them out to see if the high temp would keep dinos from returning but I couldn’t bring myself to do it. I plan on returning the temp to normal and then lowering nutrients over the next week or so. I’ll report back if they return.

Now here’s my 2¢. I’m not sure if the raised temp or nutrients are what beat them back. My guess is both. I believe the theory that competing algae is needed to beat dinos. The reason being when my tank had lots of algae after the tear down, there was no signs of dinos until I overdid it with a CUC. After a few days the tank had no visible algae and I started seeing dinos return even tho I was dosing nutrients and the levels were still high. I also got them after cleaning my sump of all algae. The problem with many of the methods to beat dinos is they also kill algae and/or lower nutrients algae need (blackouts, H2O2, Waste-away/refresh, Elegance method). Raising temp doesn’t do either and may even help the competing algae IMO. Anyway, Just my thoughts. I hope the raised temps works for everyone and we can all get back to enjoying our tanks.
 

MadTownFess

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I’m on day 12 of elevated temps and I haven’t seen Dinos in a about 5 days. My nutrient levels were going up fast (NO3=25+ PO4= .3) even tho I stopped doing NeoNitro/Phos (probably from my heavy feeding). I started to see a cyano bloom so I tempted fate and dosed LaCl3 (I’m done with GFO) and did a 15% water change on Fri. I’m back down to NO3=10 & Po4=.12. It seemed to work with no ill effects. I was actually considering bottoming them out to see if the high temp would keep dinos from returning but I couldn’t bring myself to do it. I plan on returning the temp to normal and then lowering nutrients over the next week or so. I’ll report back if they return.

Now here’s my 2¢. I’m not sure if the raised temp or nutrients are what beat them back. My guess is both. I believe the theory that competing algae is needed to beat dinos. The reason being when my tank had lots of algae after the tear down, there was no signs of dinos until I overdid it with a CUC. After a few days the tank had no visible algae and I started seeing dinos return even tho I was dosing nutrients and the levels were still high. I also got them after cleaning my sump of all algae. The problem with many of the methods to beat dinos is they also kill algae and/or lower nutrients algae need (blackouts, H2O2, Waste-away/refresh, Elegance method). Raising temp doesn’t do either and may even help the competing algae IMO. Anyway, Just my thoughts. I hope the raised temps works for everyone and we can all get back to enjoying our tanks.
I had beaten dinos for months, then recently cleaned my sump for the first time in 6+ months. That same week, started seeing dinos. Is this similar to what happened to you? Think I am going to try the higher temp thing, I am so bummed.... :(
 

MadTownFess

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So I just learned the hard way about making assumptions and I figure this might save someone else the heartache.

I had been doing daily sampling of areas with bubbles to monitor the population density of my dinoflagellates as I treated the tank with warmer water. I pretty much sampled the same three areas each day. I hadn't sampled in three days and was crestfallen to see a proliferation of bubbles on two of the spots. Of course, I assumed the dinoflagellates were coming back. They were probably mustering the troops for a second assault...

Well, today I got around to sampling those spots again only to find a diatom species (new to the tank) had proliferated and was producing all the bubbles! From the outside, the rock looked indistinguishable from the previous symptoms of my dino infestation and certainly didn't look like the normal dusting of rust I'm accustomed to seeing with diatoms.

So, the bad news is I've been walking around forlorn that my dinoflagellates eradication was unsuccessful.

The good news is all my samples are completely dino free. We'll see if this holds.

Anyway, don't be like me. When it doubt, scope it out.
I beat dinos for months, then recently cleaned my sump, and now they are back.... When I was fighting them the "warmer water" method was not a thing...do you have a link to the original post that talks about it being a way to treat dinos?
 

Pyrosteve

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I had beaten dinos for months, then recently cleaned my sump for the first time in 6+ months. That same week, started seeing dinos. Is this similar to what happened to you? Think I am going to try the higher temp thing, I am so bummed.... :(

Yep. I thought I was done with them before. I did a blackout, h2o2, then just turned on blues and left just the fuge light on for a few days. I had started growing green algae in the sump. Everything was good until it started getting overrun with GHA (I didn't have any noticeable algae in the DT). I decided to scrub the sump and dosed waste-away for the detritus. Within a week or so the dinos were back.
 

ScottB

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Yep. I thought I was done with them before. I did a blackout, h2o2, then just turned on blues and left just the fuge light on for a few days. I had started growing green algae in the sump. Everything was good until it started getting overrun with GHA (I didn't have any noticeable algae in the DT). I decided to scrub the sump and dosed waste-away for the detritus. Within a week or so the dinos were back.

I have had several relapses in my frag systems. Ostreopsis each time. If my PO4 drops below .05 I can see them begin to replace the green film algae on the glass. I keep a two head doser loaded and run my UV full time.
 

tkdman

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Been dosing microbacter7, nitrates, phosphates and feeding 3 times a day to get above 0....still reading 0 on both. Increased temp to 83 about a week ago. Dinos are expanding and my sump is now growing what looks to be cyano all over my chaeto. Started a 3 day black out yesterday.
I feel like im loosing this battle :(
 

Pyrosteve

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I see people dosing bacteria while fighting dinos and trying to raise nitrate and phos levels. But most of these lower No3 and PO4 levels, correct?
 

NS Mike D

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Need input on reducing nitrates. I am ready to start bringing the tank back to normal - slowly. I did the first water change over the weekend and the lights are about 60% of where want them. As best as I can tell, no visible signs of dinos and the pods colony has ben exploding, but still not sufficient to support the mandarin and my pod culturing is behind schedule due to temp issue I have addressed.

But, I do think there are enough pods that I can start reducing the feedings.

Which brings me to NO3. My nitrates maxed out the Red Sea test somewhere above 64. While the cheato is growing, the corals appear happy and no signs of algae invasions, I'd me more comfortable with NO3 in the 10-20 ppm range.

My PO4 testes at 0,08 today down from 0.2ppm last week.

I was thinking of using BlueLife Nitrate FX bringing down NO3 at about 10ppm at a time. The directions state that each 250ml (one jar) will reduce 10ppm Nitrates in 125 gal of water. I estimate my tank and sumps to be about 30gal so that would equate to 60ml to reduce NO3 by 10 ppm.

One of my concerns is there is no much NO3 that natural tank metabolism might take PO4 down too low.

Another option is to put the skimmer back in and carbon dose, and option that I am not thrilled about since my skimmer doesn't fit out of sight and over carbon dosing is what lead to the dino relapse.


Thoughts on NO3 reduction?
 

Marc2952

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After beating it and not having it appear for a month i decided to do a water change since my icp test showed low levels of trace elements. I also started going 2 part instead of kalk through an ato with esv b-ionic. After just 2 days the dinos are coming back in the sand again. I wonder if its the iodine or iron in the salt and 2 part that makes them bloom? Ive kept my tank at 0.10 phosphates and they still coming back. Have any of you guys had success by adding backteria from zeobak or adding fiji mud?
 

Marc2952

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I cannot say for sure WHO consumes my Iodine and Potassium, but now that I am back to regular water changes I still have to dose both. Not much of it though.

I never confirmed a connection between either element and dinos. I had my suspicion for a while -- but only because I realized the depletion at the time of an outbreak. As I am well past dinos and still need to dose suggests some other organisms are consuming them.

Go easy on the Iodine, or better yet make sure you have a test kit so you don't overdose it.
I just performed my first water change in 3 months ( over 1 month since my dinos disappeared) and withind 2 days the dinos have already popped up on the sand again, im thinking maybe they bloom when iodine gets replenished? When i did my icp test prior to the water change i had a very low level of iodine. Mind you i have kept my phosphates at 0.10 and nitrates at 10ppm all this time and they still coming back. There is something in that salt that they absolutely love lol
 

ScottB

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Been dosing microbacter7, nitrates, phosphates and feeding 3 times a day to get above 0....still reading 0 on both. Increased temp to 83 about a week ago. Dinos are expanding and my sump is now growing what looks to be cyano all over my chaeto. Started a 3 day black out yesterday.
I feel like im loosing this battle :(
Do you know what species you have?
Are you running UV? (Or do you have large cell amphids?)

As @Pyrosteve noted, the bacteria could be working against your efforts to raise nutrient.

It is going to take A LOT of PO4 dosing to make it available in the water. Your rock was depleted. So new doses are just getting bound to the rock & substrate. Once it saturates, you will get a reading. IMO, you should stop dosing NO3 until you get a SOLID PO4 reading.

Hang in there. Look at the title of the thread. Most of the time, it is hard duty solving for dinos.
 

LRT

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I have been dosing red sea ab. Cant explain why my phosphates are so high.
Other than my water is super hard and had a mishap with my ro and didnt realize it was 118 ppm, 5 alk before mixing salt. Since then I have replaced with 6 stage rodi and now 0 ppm before salt mix. Alk is still sitting around 11 after bringing it back down slowly but did get all the way up to 14.3!
Thank you for the link I will see how it works out.
Hey guys just thought it would be helpful to some here if using Sodium Nitrate instead of Potassium Nitrate as is in the link calculator posted previously.
With the Sodium Nitrate it I mixed 25 grams to 25 ml rodi and it took 5 ml of sodium nitrate mix to achieve 5ppm in my 160-180 gallon system.
 

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Do you know what species you have?
Are you running UV? (Or do you have large cell amphids?)

As @Pyrosteve noted, the bacteria could be working against your efforts to raise nutrient.

It is going to take A LOT of PO4 dosing to make it available in the water. Your rock was depleted. So new doses are just getting bound to the rock & substrate. Once it saturates, you will get a reading. IMO, you should stop dosing NO3 until you get a SOLID PO4 reading.

Hang in there. Look at the title of the thread. Most of the time, it is hard duty solving for dinos.

Its the large cells :/ i finally got a .01po reading and what appeared to be a 1 no3 at 2pm reading after dosing this morning at 9am. Prior to that i was reading 0 at noon after a 9am dose.
I was hoping the microbacter7 would add bacteria to eat the dying dinos (wishful thinking i know)
And no i am not running UV wife is making me buy that as a last resort. Lol
 

ScottB

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Its the large cells :/ i finally got a .01po reading and what appeared to be a 1 no3 at 2pm reading after dosing this morning at 9am. Prior to that i was reading 0 at noon after a 9am dose.
I was hoping the microbacter7 would add bacteria to eat the dying dinos (wishful thinking i know)
And no i am not running UV wife is making me buy that as a last resort. Lol
Got it. You can hold off on the UV. The large cell amphids stay in the sand; the UV would not help much if at all.
Sorry about the large cell; they seem the most difficult to treat by far. There is a separate thread here specifically for that species that @taricha launched. Unlike ostreopsis, the treatment methods are/were considered "experimental" but I am probably a few pages behind the latest updates. I know several people got all the way to the point of removing their sand bed to control amphids.

 

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Here is my Dinos theory for why dinoflagellates are more difficult now:

So last night, I decided to look up what several old school reefing books and blogs said about dealing with Dinos. Almost all initially say its a fairly rare thing, and shouldn't really pop up. Then they go on to say that if you do get them that you should limit your nutrient intake, the same way they'd recommend dealing with most other algae issues. Below is a compilation of the different suggestions commonly used in the "old school methods" by the greats such as Bob Fenner, Anthony Calfo, RHF, Leonard Ho, SonnyX, etc.

https://reefs.com/2011/03/16/how-i-beat-dinoflagellates-and-the-lessons-i-learned/
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-11/rhf/index.php#11
http://reefsite.com/2015/01/dinoflagellates-and-the-treament-of/

These 7 are almost always recommended:
  1. Run granular activated carbon (GAC) to remove as much of these toxins as possible
  2. 3 day black-out. Make sure to aggressively run your protein skimmer (or use air pumps) during this time as oxygen levels can get dangerously low.
  3. Several large water changes
  4. Manually removal: Siphoning off any dinoflagellates you can find, in addition to siphoning the sand bed. A 10 micron filter sock can be installed in the sump to catch fine particulates if not doing a water change.
  5. Reduce photo period and/or intensity & run only blues or actinics.
  6. Feed conservatively to keep nutrient levels low.
  7. Use Kalkwasser for supplementation, ideally maintain pH above 8.4 with kalkwasser.
These bottom 3 are recommended on most publications after 2010, but in early 2000's I don't see these mentioned:
  1. For two weeks after the second water change, I added hydrogen peroxide (3% h202 solution commonly sold in supermarkets) at a rate of 1ml per 10 gallon per day, ozone or UV sterilizers would serve the same purpose.
  2. Dose DIY Zeo Coral Snow daily (Calcium Carbonate https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-kz-coral-snow-with-97purity.211722/ ) This is a flocculent to help bind and remove the free floating Dino’s. - Turkey bast the rocks and sand to get as many dinos free floating as possible so they get bound to the Calcium Carbonate slurry. Turkey Baster combined with the blackout was key to getting the dinos free floating so they could bind to the "Coral Snow".
  3. Add good bacteria (MB7, Dr Tims, Seachem Stability, etc)
I find this to be obviously mostly different from the treatment methods that are primarily suggested now. Which is primarily keep PO4 and NO3 elevated above zero, ideally through dosing (feeding is ok sometimes too) to keep PO4 0.5-0.2ppm~ and NO3 2-20ppm~. This is the main recommendation from what I can see. This in addition to adding good bacteria for bio diversity, maybe run a UV, maybe do a blackout, run carbon, etc.

The main difference is how nutrients are handled:
Old school tank set up:
Go slow! Established live rock, live sand, slowly add fish, slowly add corals (NO SPS until after year 1). Filtration was 1-2lbs+ of live rock per gallon (even if mostly in the sump), and a skimmer, carbon, simple set ups.

New school tank set up: dry dead rock, dry or live sand, add bacteria and pure ammonia, fish added quickly, any corals added quickly, skimmer, filter roller and/or socks, GFO, Carbon, tons of bio media (matrix, bricks, etc), refugiums/ATS/Chaeto Reactors, Supplements, etc from the start.

The main thing I’m noticing is that not only are new tanks not starting with established live rock, they are also usually running all of the equipment you would want to add into your system later on when nutrient levels begin to rise above levels that you find easy to manage naturally.

Live rock might of reached “full saturation” of phosphate, while new/dry rock and bio media still hasn’t reached saturation yet.


TL; DR:
My main theory is that because dry rock & sand hasn't reached full phosphate saturation, that is (COULD be) the problem we have with dinos.
It may be worthwhile to load up the new rocks with phosphate during the cycle to prevent this from happening. Old tanks used to be much more stable and bacteria, coralline algae, and diversity is usually what is talked about. That makes sense, and they are obvious things to think about, however I think MAYBE phosphate saturation of the rocks and sand should probably be part of this conversation.

I haven't really tested this theory, but to me it seems to be one of the main missing factors in this dinos equation.
 

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