Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

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ReefMan692

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don't. That's like the number one thing to stop when a dino outbreak happens.
Okay I took the GFO offline today going to continue to monitor.

Nitrates up but phosphates down I guess you were right on that one!


Most likely as a previous poster advised me when I raised nitrates it neccesarily dropped the phosphate.

So now in just 2 days the imbalance in my system has swung from no nitrate to no phosphate.

Shes a beast but hopefully we'll get her wrangled in.

Phosphate today: 0.02 (uh oh)
Nitrate today: 25 (uh oh)

GFO offline Phosguard out Scrubber out, light skim still happening ive doubled up on GAC (emptied gfo from one reactor replaced with GAC).

I think ill just fall into my normal feeding right now and dose a little phosphate maybe try to gradually increase back to 0.1 while monitoring nitrate.

My "live phyto" doesnt look so alive under the microscope so i guess i wont be adding that
 
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Tuffloud1

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I like that you are getting some green on the glass; good sign to me.
Are you seeing any diatoms in the sand samples? Can be some good competition for the coolia. They enjoy some silicates. I know. How ironic.

Here is what it looks like at sunrise.

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I took another sample of sand this morning under the scope. Nothing but coolia and some prorocentrum mixed in.
 

ScottB

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Interested in the 22 hours. I read in the science literature algae does its bulk growth at night it is nocturnal in that way and that for phyto cultivation in photobioreactor anything more than 12 hours of light adds stress to the organism.

But i have seen a lot of people say more than 12 for fuge
Hmm. I've not read that but it does make intuitive sense. It did evolve over the millions to thrive in ~12 hours of light. And I can't say it grows any faster than when I just ran the light counter to my tank light schedule.

I am going to go back to 12 hours. Thank you.
 

saltyhog

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Is silica dosing effective against coolia? It is my understanding that it is effective to increase diatoms to drown out Amphidinium, but what about coolia?

I thought dinoflagellates thrive on silica so it is a bit confusing.

No dinos do not need silica to thrive....I think this misunderstanding relates to the similarity in names between diatoms and dinos.

For coolia UV worked very well for me. It needs to be 'coaxed' in to the water column a little more than ostreopsis but UV can get rid of it quickly. Short turning off lights for one cycle a week did it for me.


I had 'em bad!
 

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Tuffloud1

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No dinos do not need silica to thrive....I think this misunderstanding relates to the similarity in names between diatoms and dinos.

For coolia UV worked very well for me. It needs to be 'coaxed' in to the water column a little more than ostreopsis but UV can get rid of it quickly. Short turning off lights for one cycle a week did it for me.


I had 'em bad!
Any issue with acros going lights out?
 
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saltyhog

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Any issue with acros going lights out?

Yes which is why I wouldn't do it at all for ostreopsis which goes in to the water column readily at night. Even with coolia I don't think it's always needed. Doing it for one day (which is what I was referring to) shouldn't be a problem though. Storms in nature can cause light interruptions for longer than that.
 

ReefMan692

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Todaya update:

Nitrate still testing around 20sh
Phosphate tested 0.04(up from yesterday but not as much as expected after dosing neophos). I dosed more neophos today.

Reef looking good mostly. Can tell dinos are still alive but receeded I would say "at bay".

Also I did manage to find time to clean and service the UV so lets see if that helps any!

Running pretty minimalist now: just GAC, Skimmer and filter sock
 

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DonDrummond

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Looking for ID confirmation. I’m guessing ostreopsis ?

Never added video before- not sure if I did it correctly.
 

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Tuffloud1

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Yes which is why I wouldn't do it at all for ostreopsis which goes in to the water column readily at night. Even with coolia I don't think it's always needed. Doing it for one day (which is what I was referring to) shouldn't be a problem though. Storms in nature can cause light interruptions for longer than that.

Is it necessary to block every bit of light from the room entering the tank or will just turning off the lights above the tank for 24 hours work?

I can make the room pretty dark with the curtains, does it need to be pitch black?
 

Fredrxn

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Hey guys I just got my Jebao cw 36 watt uv sterilizer I paired it with 80 gph pump.is this pump to slow for my tank fighting Ostreopsis...return flow from pump seems low....I used 3/4 line for return and 1/2 inch line from pump...here is a few pics of how I set it up and video of flow from uv


Tank is 65 gallons

pump is 20210427_211010.jpg 20210427_211004.jpg
 

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Willis19

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Update: after few doses of DINO X my rocks look more green and 95% of dinos are gone (treatment not finished yet).

Today, I manually removed the spots on the sand left and did direct feed corals with reefroids, based in the rational that low nutrients is danger when it comes to dinos.

I will see tomorrow if dosing reefroids stimulates the dinos or not.

The corals look bad after dosing dino X, even one of my anemones split due to the stress (I have 4 now :) - i need to see the positive side, eh?), I ordered microbacter 7 and it is on the way. All corals shrunken.

Interesting, the blastumossa and alveopora seems to be the ones that were not affected at all by dosing DINO X.

Fish: I have 3, two are eating ok, the bigger is not. I lost my starfish today. Snails ok.

copepods: I haven't seen any as I used to see in the glass before the outbreak.

My question is, seeing my rocks green is a good signal?
 

saltyhog

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Is it necessary to block every bit of light from the room entering the tank or will just turning off the lights above the tank for 24 hours work?

I can make the room pretty dark with the curtains, does it need to be pitch black?

I wouldn't go to any lengths beyond closing blinds, certainly not the elaborate wrapping some do. Honestly for most occasions, UV sensitive dinos are going to go in to the water column when the lights are normally off anyway. Altering lighting schedule is not something I would do at all.
 
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Tuffloud1

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I wouldn't go to any lengths beyond closing blinds, certainly not the elaborate wrapping some do. Honestly for most occasions, UV sensitive dinos are going to go in to the water column when the lights are normally off anyway. Altering lighting schedule is not something I would do at all.

From my understanding, Coolia and Prorocentrum detach and move into the water column in darkness.

I scraped it off the back wall after I installed the UV and it is all back a week later just as bad as before. I was also using a baster to blow the sand around to get it into the water column. It hasn’t gotten any better, still shows up during lights on.

I have a 90 watt running 600-800 gph on a 300 gallon system.
 

ggNoRe

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I have been battling a bad case of dinos for about 10 days. A log can been seen in my build thread. I recently (past 3-4 days) have got my nitrate and phosphates up to decent levels (2-4 no3 and .01 - .05 phos) and started dosing Microbacter 7. Tonight for the first time I noticed something I've never seen before in the attached picture. It's a pretty bright orange/bronze layer on the rocks under blue lights. Anyone know what this is?

PXL_20210429_024426965.jpg
 
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saltyhog

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From my understanding, Coolia and Prorocentrum detach and move into the water column in darkness.

I scraped it off the back wall after I installed the UV and it is all back a week later just as bad as before. I was also using a baster to blow the sand around to get it into the water column. It hasn’t gotten any better, still shows up during lights on.

I have a 90 watt running 600-800 gph on a 300 gallon system.

Coolia, yes....prorocentrum, no. Sometimes coolia takes a little more "urging" to get in to the water column. The most common UV sensitive dino (ostreopsis) doesn't need any "urging" to go in the water column....the reason for my comment.
 

Tuffloud1

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Coolia, yes....prorocentrum, no. Sometimes coolia takes a little more "urging" to get in to the water column. The most common UV sensitive dino (ostreopsis) doesn't need any "urging" to go in the water column....the reason for my comment.

This is not what I’ve read in other prorocentrum threads. UV is being recommended because they migrate into the water column at night.

Not saying you are wrong.
 
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