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I think the main thing is to not use anything that removes nitrates or phosphates unnaturally. At least for a long time after your tank has been up and running. These would include gfo, biopellets, carbon dosing, etc. I would not even run a lighted refugium for quite a while. I believe a skimmer is ok. Certainly adding real liverock and live sand is also a plus. I don’t know if you have watched the brs videos about the wwc brs method, but I think those are very useful. Here’s one:Just read lots of this wicked post. I'm starting a new 100-gallon tank and have dry rock, a BM skimmer, roller filter, two Kessil a360x lights, and have yet to purchase sand (but may get some live Caribsea). What are your thoughts on the best practical measures I can take to prevent undue blooms of dinos and other algae? Particularly with respect to:
-Should I buy some cured rock to supplement the dry rock I already have?
-Start with the skimmer on or off?
-Use the roller filter to begin with or not?
-Bare bottom or not?
-How much ceramic biomedia to start with, if any? Seeing mixed reports.
-Should I push to get a refugium up and running at the onset? Reading mixed reports on this w/ respect to dinos.
-Seed copepods or not to begin?
Cheers,
Ross
I think the main thing is to not use anything that removes nitrates or phosphates unnaturally. At least for a long time after your tank has been up and running. These would include gfo, biopellets, carbon dosing, etc. I would not even run a lighted refugium for quite a while. I believe a skimmer is ok. Certainly adding real liverock and live sand is also a plus. I don’t know if you have watched the brs videos about the wwc brs method, but I think those are very useful. Here’s one:
Thanks. I've watched that video and just watched it again - lots of food for thought in there.
Quick clarification: are Marine Pure Biofilter Balls (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/marinepure-ceramic-biomedia-1-1-2-spheres.html) the same as the biopellets you refer to, functionally speaking?
I'm starting a quarantine tank and think I should use a few of the ceramic bio-balls for nitrifying bacterial growth. Of course, they wouldn't move to the main tank. I wouldn't use a lot either with concern about them sucking up lots of free copper ions.
These are amphidinium
OstreopsisCan I get an ID here please? Tried in another thread and only got a single vote for Algae. I had a green filter in the background for contrast, which I fear may have pushed it that direction. Would appreciate any input that you can offer. It builds significantly through the day after lights on, whether I toothbrush it off or vacuum the sand the day before or not. Thanks!
These are amphidinium
Ostreopsis
Definitely dinos, but not enough cell detail or movement for me to be more specific.Are these Dinos?
Definitely dinos, but not enough cell detail or movement for me to be more specific.
agreed on the ID. And I also agree to aim for the low side of the recommended flow rate, dinos have to get more uv than "greenwater" algae or bacteria in order to kill them.Looking like I have Coolia, lots of fast moving little buggers. Going to get a Pentair 25w for my 65. I can’t seem to find anywhere if the higher algae/bacteria flow rate is best for Dinos. Strangely the “MAX” operational gph for this is listed at 133gph which would coincide with the Protozoa flow rate. Sorry for the shaky video the plastic microscope was pretty wobbly.
Thanks. I'm increasingly coming around to the idea that a "good bacteria" intervention should be part of all treatment protocols. Did you follow one of the Dr Tims recipes?Thank you! Seem to have eliminated them through 48 hr blackout and Dr Tims Refresh/Waste Away combo. Have some GHA and a bit of turf algae to deal with, but the ostreopsis looks like it's largely gone for the moment. Appreciate the reply very much
agreed on the ID. And I also agree to aim for the low side of the recommended flow rate, dinos have to get more uv than "greenwater" algae or bacteria in order to kill them.
For you 65 gallon tank, around 100 gph of actual flow would be good. You’ll want to to plumb from DT back to DT for best results. Good luck!So more in the ~100gph range? That would certainly save me having to get a monster 800gph after head loss pump!
Thank you for your input!
For you 65 gallon tank, around 100 gph of actual flow would be good. You’ll want to to plumb from DT back to DT for best results. Good luck!