I was under the impression that small cell amphidinium migrated to the water column at night & were great swimmers?
You are correct. Small cell amphids do go into the water column at lights out.
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I was under the impression that small cell amphidinium migrated to the water column at night & were great swimmers?
Take a pic under white lights, tell us your PO4 and NO3 numbers and age of tank so we can figure this out.
Still kind of hard to say but almost looks more like cyano to me. Does it form snotty looking strings?not sure if this is any better it’s best I can come up with with this phone. NO3 is 0 and PO4 is also 0.
No it just covers over sand bed and rocks only time it kind of “strings” is when bubbles form within it.Still kind of hard to say but almost looks more like cyano to me. Does it form snotty looking strings?
From the appearance and your description seems to be cyano.No it just covers over sand bed and rocks only time it kind of “strings” is when bubbles form within it.
+1 on cyano, but without a microscope it is an educated guess.From the appearance and your description seems to be cyano.
Not sure on the smalk cell form. The amphidinium I had stayed in the sand and moved deeper into it at night never free swimming in the water. If small cell move into the water then UV is your best method of attack.I was under the impression that small cell amphidinium migrated to the water column at night & were great swimmers?
Thank you. What other methods are tried and true? And what may be the cause of its never ending return?+1 on cyano, but without a microscope it is an educated guess.
I will give you a link to a test you can do without a microscope below:
Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
@mcarroll I am linking a thread I started that noticed my ORP was super low and I thought that was probably due to dinos. Anyone else notice the same thing? https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/can-dinos-cause-really-low-orp.325625/#post-4035164 I'll continue updating there.www.reef2reef.com
If it turns out to be cyano, I would just stir it up and siphon it out. If you choose to go at it chemically (which I discourage) via Chemiclean, you are dramatically improving your odds of a dino bloom IMO.
my dinos seem to be dying off! i havent really done anything different just been stirring the sand bed , and changing my filter socks out more often. They cover my sand bed less and less everyday but i checked my nitrate and phosphate today nitrate was between 0-5 it was a little darker then 0 but not as dark as 5 my phosphates were 0.05 i want to start raising them slowly to get rid of this dinos for good any recommendations? also what numbers should i shoot for?
Thank you. What other methods are tried and true? And what may be the cause of its never ending return?
I have 2 Jebao SW15's on full power Wave mode. My tank is 82g. I felt like thats quite a bit of flow. I'm really lost, because its all forming at the front and thats where the most flow in theory would be because its open water.Very good question. I have too much experience with dinos, but cyano in my systems has always been a brief phase that occurs while my nutrient levels are shifting around. They like light, and prefer a spot where detritus settles. I just siphon them out and try to keep my rocks/sand clear of detritus. And I keep A LOT of flow going.
Question about the UV speech: we have always focused on the W x Gallon speech, but never on the type of lamp present in the system.
I have seen that there are several types: 4-pin PL, classic T5 and 4-pin T5 on one side. With the same number of W can anyone say which are the most preformers for our purpose?
maybe that's why someone has good results and someone else doesn't, with the same ID as Dino, and the same W / g of UVC lamps!!!!
Question about the UV speech: we have always focused on the W x Gallon speech, but never on the type of lamp present in the system.
I have seen that there are several types: 4-pin PL, classic T5 and 4-pin T5 on one side. With the same number of W can anyone say which are the most preformers for our purpose?
maybe that's why someone has good results and someone else doesn't, with the same ID as Dino, and the same W / g of UVC lamps!!!!
is precisely because of the ostreopsis that this doubt came to me! reading the various pages, every time id ostreopsis is confirmed, but the user does not notice improvement with UV.Fine question. I don't have any technical expertise on that to contribute.
I can tell you that whatever bulb is in the Aqua UV will work on ostreopsis.
is precisely because of the ostreopsis that this doubt came to me! reading the various pages, every time id ostreopsis is confirmed, but the user does not notice improvement with UV.
I'm among these people, UV has done little! and every day I check with a microscope, and I'm always and only ostreopsis! yet I have a 36W UV lamp (new and changed bulb after 3 months with new philips bulb) on a tank of only 250 liters sump included, and flow of 800 liters / h dt to dt! here well oversized! for example, my lamp is a 4-pin PL.
in my fight to ostreopsis UV 5% and the rest of the actions do 95% (low skimmer, dose N and P eccc)