I use the Hanna checker on the recommendation of several reputable forum members. Hanna doesn't say it's for saltwater use but it worked really well for me. If you dig for posts by @taricha, you should find some information on accuracy.
IIRC, the larger ones like large cell amphidinium are 40-50 microns and the rest are 25 or so.
Thanks. Seem to recall specifically avoiding the Seachem test because of things I read but maybe I'm confusing with Salifert.
I'd say ive had dino for 3-4 months (my tank is about 7-9 months old) It was amphidinium LC before but now I think its changed to small cell and in other pictures it shows some other stuff that I cant I'd and below are videos of it, 1 coral has died and its getting out of hand, Im scared to dose SI as I feel like I dont want to overdose and it becomes a problem, So if anyone can ID the pictures that would be great, and just wondering if SI is safe? Also if there are any alternatives to SI, Thanks!
29g sorry for late reply.
My LFS also said to not dose SI and to lower nitrates and do more water changes, they're also having dino issues. Should I listen to their advice?
www.reef2reef.com
Alright, thanks! I read some of the thread and which way would you suggest to clean the rocks without damaging the good bacteria in them. And also would getting a piece of live rock help for bio diversity?my dinos have totally cleared within 4 days, no visible dinos now for 2 days, if you put in the work on a 29g tank you should see very good results in days, if you have a lot of corals then it may take a little longer but very doable, I posted what I did in this thread, even if you can only scrub the rocks in the tank then do that, if you can not get to where they are fully gone, do a 3 day blackout at the end as that should finish them off, I didn’t have to do that tho. My post is 17.
Dino? Best way to treat?
Just noticed these small silver balls and a reddish brown film .. more on the back of my rock. How do I stop this from spreading!?
can someone just tell me what NO3 and PO4 levels should I target to overcome ostreopsis?
- Ironically, however, once a bloom has started, lower N : P ratios is the first thing on the diagram that has a strong negative effect on an existing bloom.
- Unless you can lower your tank temperature to <68ºF, then lowering the N : P ratio (less than Redfield) may as well be the only thing on the diagram that has a strong negative effect on a bloom
- It's important to manage reducing the N : P ratio closely, as this same condition (N : P < Redfield) also has a strong positive effect on bloom start. The opposite of what you want, so crashing N and P to zero with a vodka+GFO blitz is not the idea.
less then redfield" mean..Hi guys! am dealing with ostreopsis, and read the first message, referring to following post of mcarroll
can someone just tell me what NO3 and PO4 levels should I target to overcome ostreopsis?
I do not understand what does "N
The nice thing about dealing with ostreopsis is that they can be EASILY managed with a properly sized UV unit.Hi guys! am dealing with ostreopsis, and read the first message, referring to following post of mcarroll
can someone just tell me what NO3 and PO4 levels should I target to overcome ostreopsis?
I do not understand what does "N
Yup. Big UV and slow flow. Ignore the manufacturer recommendations. They are NOT talking about killing dinoflagellates. Algae and bacteria don't have the armor that dinos do. You are lucky. While ostreopsis are quite toxic (and you should run some GAC) they are the easiest to kill with the right UV setup.
