DIY: 1-Sheet Laminated Plywood Stand

special-ops-s2k

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What program did you use to design the stand prior to cutting? I’d love to do a stand of this style for my quarantine system, I should have you draw up the plans! This is awesome!
 

Lissa1987

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Did anyone need to use one of theses instead of the sander?;Smuggrin


FCC23B27-93B4-474F-B391-DD83E8EA591F.gif
Having woodworking as one of my many hobbies, this made me giggle way more than it should have...
 
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TheHarold

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Cool I’ll have to look into that and see if I can figure it out! I have 6x 20g tanks and want to do 2 tier design with 3 tanks on each level. Your design looks much cleaner than the 2x4 plan I had originally thought of going with

Its pretty similar to using 2x4s. I am just making my own 2x4s by laminating sheets of plywood together.

A bit more involved, but plywood is stronger and more resistant to warping.
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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I just wanted to post another update here- I put in side panels that have the outsides painted white and the inside painted orange. Looks pretty sick, in my opinion.

G3iFw2v.jpg

Dig the inside accent walls hehe. Looking sweet. Hopefully my stand comes out looking half as good as yours.
 
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TheHarold

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looks great! what are you using to paint your stuff? looks like the stand base was sprayed?

Generic rattle can paint. A few coats of high build primer, bunch of sanding, and then rustoleum gloss white
 
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TheHarold

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The flex tube on the return pump had me thinking it was a DEF nozzle. :D

I had to google that- funny, I see the resemblance!

Im sure most people would frown upon me for using that. Its bilge tubing; meant for drains, not pressure rated. Works great- its PVC, so glues right to other fittings :)
 

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I had to google that- funny, I see the resemblance!

Im sure most people would frown upon me for using that. Its bilge tubing; meant for drains, not pressure rated. Works great- its PVC, so glues right to other fittings :)
1566512199046.png
 

Antics

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I've always liked to use flexible tubing for a small section between hard pipe and the return. One because it seems to quiet down vibration but... if I'm being honest it makes the return angles less critical to line up -- which for me is easier. :p

I'm not sure if I'll use a flex tube on my current upgrade. I've heard it has a pretty serious impact on the flow. I'm not sure if its true but its one of those wives tales I hear as far as pump plumbing.
 
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TheHarold

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I've always liked to use flexible tubing for a small section between hard pipe and the return. One because it seems to quiet down vibration but... if I'm being honest it makes the return angles less critical to line up -- which for me is easier. :p

I'm not sure if I'll use a flex tube on my current upgrade. I've heard it has a pretty serious impact on the flow. I'm not sure if its true but its one of those wives tales I hear as far as pump plumbing.

Totally agree re angles.

The tubing I am using is smooth inside? I cant imagine it has any effect on flow. Anyway, my return pump is comically oversized- around 3000gph for a 70g tank. I run it on 1/2 power LOL

Just put in the new skimmer from the R2R giveaway! Looking sick. Next is cord management xD

(water under sump is because the skimmer was wet when I put it in)

4UR9Mc6.jpg
 

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Yeah from here the issues with the sump aren't apparent. So I guess you were right to take the other route instead of the to and fro shipping. I love how open the sump area looks! I want to do plywood instead of 2x4's this time but I really don't trust my cuts! :p
 
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TheHarold

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Yeah from here the issues with the sump aren't apparent. So I guess you were right to take the other route instead of the to and fro shipping. I love how open the sump area looks! I want to do plywood instead of 2x4's this time but I really don't trust my cuts! :p

The issues aren't apparent ASSUMING the water under the sump isn't due to the joints lol. I agree it wasn't worth paying additional to send it back and forth. I added thick solvent to the sketchiness, and water testing was good overnight. Though there is a water getting in between the baffles where there isn't any solvent, which is kind of annoying. I figure that'll get clogged up with detritus in time- only clean for the beginning.
 

Mastiffsrule

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That is really looking good. I just caught that rubble rock in the baffles. Nice
 

WaderJames1983!

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Thanks man. I had the same thoughts when I looked at my Red Sea Reefer stand; there is so little material. My stand should easily hold 1000lbs. I can stand on the (unsupported) front brace and it doesn't even bend a little. Crazy stiff, plywood. Cheap too.

The plywood was like $50, and then I used around $40 of assorted materials (glue, 1.25 & 2" screws, wood filler, primer, paint). Though I guess that cost assumes you have a table saw to cut all of these lengths, as well as a random orbit sander.

I will probably end up buying a quarter sheet of 3/4" ply, to make the bottom area a shelf, and a quarter sheet of 1/2" ply, to make a back (for mounting stuff).
The issues aren't apparent ASSUMING the water under the sump isn't due to the joints lol. I agree it wasn't worth paying additional to send it back and forth. I added thick solvent to the sketchiness, and water testing was good overnight. Though there is a water getting in between the baffles where there isn't any solvent, which is kind of annoying. I figure that'll get clogged up with detritus in time- only clean for the beginning.
Older thread someone pinged on...but it's a topic I like. Namely, the incredible and underrated strength of engineered lumber - plywood. See this video series for exactly how strong and how easy 3/4 plywood is to work with and the size tank this guy puts on it (175 gallon). Notice it's not solid panels. You absolutely do not need the space hogging, expensive, dimensional lumber.




Hey the Harold, I realize this post is from last year. But I have been trying to recreate the stand you build, especially the white finished color and the plywood lip. Mind sharing specifics, like what sort of paint/primer did you use? Also, how did you get the 3" pieces of plywood onto the front, screws or mainly wood glue? Lastly, Does setting your tank inside of the stand and allowing it to be recessed with the "lip" or edge around the glass create any added strength, say like extra bracing? Thanks
 
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