DIY Stand for 220 gal Marineland Reef Ready Tank

[Tony S]

looking for suggestions on how to address a problem I'm having. I have the 220 Marineland with Corner overflows, and originally was building a stand I've seen and actually built before for non drilled tanks. The problem I'm running into is on the back corners where the overflows need to come out of the bottom, I'd rather not have to cut into any of my bracing to provide space for the drain/return lines, so has anyone else built a stand as such?
attached are 2 files, 1 is the overflow layout from Marineland and the 2nd is my modeled stand design with 4x4 posts in the corner, even replacing the 4x4 with 2x6 I still run into hitting 1 of the drain lines in 1 direction....... thoughts?

 

[Flippers4pups]

When I built my stand for my 125 marineland, I built it just like all the other stands I built in the past based off the "rocket engineer's" design.

I used 2x6's for the top rails and 2x4's for the legs and bottom frame. I did have to cut away some material from the top rails and legs to get the nut on one bulkhead on each side.

You will have to do the same.

 

[Tony S]

what are your thoughts of making the stand about 2"-3" wider on each side and about 2" deeper in the back to prevent having to cut anything?
and then placing a 1/4" sheet of ply or mdf on top for the tank to sit on?

 

[Flippers4pups]

what are your thoughts of making the stand about 2"-3" wider on each side and about 2" deeper in the back to prevent having to cut anything?
and then placing a 1/4" sheet of ply or mdf on top for the tank to sit on?

Tank needs to be supported at all 4 corners underneath. Plywood sheet won't support the weight.

 

[Tony S]

Right plywood not supporting the weight but if I have the corners held with 4x4s and shift them to the outside 1" so essentially 3" square is underneath the tank that 1" offset may prevent me from having to cut through any supports? Or is that a terrible idea, just throwing ideas around

 

[Flippers4pups]

Right plywood not supporting the weight but if I have the corners held with 4x4s and shift them to the outside 1" so essentially 3" square is underneath the tank that 1" offset may prevent me from having to cut through any supports? Or is that a terrible idea, just throwing ideas around

As long as the bottom of the tank, in the corners is supported directly underneath by the legs. Should be okay.

 

[Tony S]

As long as the bottom of the tank, in the corners is supported directly underneath by the legs. Should be okay.

Great that's exactly what I wanted to hear, I'll mock something up tomorrow likely and post for you and anyone else interested, thanks for the replies, appreciate it

 

[Tony S]

update to the stand with sump and 20gal top off containter fit (barely)

 

[saintsreturn]

Looks great so far. I dont know if i am following your train of thought effectively, but the way my tank is plumbed is it sits on the stands supports on all edges and has a sheet of plywood across the stand. The corner OF is far enough away from the edge, that the plywood had a hole cut out for the return and drain lines. My build thread may have a photo of this, i cannot remember.

 

[Tony S]

Looks great so far. I dont know if i am following your train of thought effectively, but the way my tank is plumbed is it sits on the stands supports on all edges and has a sheet of plywood across the stand. The corner OF is far enough away from the edge, that the plywood had a hole cut out for the return and drain lines. My build thread may have a photo of this, i cannot remember.

yes I'll have a sheet of plywood on top that I'll have to cut an opening for the drain/return openings in the bottom of the tank that I'll plumb to the sump.

 

[saintsreturn]

yes I'll have a sheet of plywood on top that I'll have to cut an opening for the drain/return openings in the bottom of the tank that I'll plumb to the sump.

That is exactly it! That is how mine is and it works great. Only line of thought is to decide if you will ever want to move it. I say that because if you want 100% cut free, you will need threaded bulkheads. Personally, i hate them with a passion that the codes of conduct on this forum prevent me from describing. So i glued. My thought process was the 10$ to replace the bulkheads and or fittings is worth avoiding threaded bulkheads for me.

 

[Tony S]

That is exactly it! That is how mine is and it works great. Only line of thought is to decide if you will ever want to move it. I say that because if you want 100% cut free, you will need threaded bulkheads. Personally, i hate them with a passion that the codes of conduct on this forum prevent me from describing. So i glued. My thought process was the 10$ to replace the bulkheads and or fittings is worth avoiding threaded bulkheads for me.

will I ever want to move what? right now I have the overflow and drain that are glued into the bulkhead which is threaded below with a nut that I need to figure out how to plumb now...

 

[saintsreturn]

will I ever want to move what? right now I have the overflow and drain that are glued into the bulkhead which is threaded below with a nut that I need to figure out how to plumb now...

Move the tank or items underneath it.

So here is the reason for that comment. If you ever need to take the bulkhead out, if it takes a threaded PVC adapter, you can unscrew it and pull it out. If you use a glue in, then you will have to cut the pipe out. Reasons for this are typically moving the tank to a new location (upgrade, sell, move) or redoing plumbing layouts. If you bought "slip" bulkheads, then you have the glue style. The outside threads and nuts are for securing the bulkhead to the glass.

Ok, next comment.... you may want to cut the drain line from the bulkhead now, before you get to far. At that point you, can decide if you want to replace or modify what you have to work.

Why do i say that? I glue in all the return and drain lines with one exception. I never glue the drain pipe to the bulkhead on the overflow side. This way, you can pull the drain pipe as needed. This will come in handy for when your fish get back into the overflow or if you have a snail/debris get into the drainpipe. even with the guard on the drainpipe's U shape, you will need to pull it out to clean nori or whatever else floats back there. Just last night i had to pull my drain pipe to free a wrasse that made his way into the back area.

 

[davocean]

Looks fine, I'd use 3/4" ply on top, not a fan of MDF, I'd use solid ply.

 

[Tony S]

Move the tank or items underneath it.

So here is the reason for that comment. If you ever need to take the bulkhead out, if it takes a threaded PVC adapter, you can unscrew it and pull it out. If you use a glue in, then you will have to cut the pipe out. Reasons for this are typically moving the tank to a new location (upgrade, sell, move) or redoing plumbing layouts. If you bought "slip" bulkheads, then you have the glue style. The outside threads and nuts are for securing the bulkhead to the glass.

Ok, next comment.... you may want to cut the drain line from the bulkhead now, before you get to far. At that point you, can decide if you want to replace or modify what you have to work.

Why do i say that? I glue in all the return and drain lines with one exception. I never glue the drain pipe to the bulkhead on the overflow side. This way, you can pull the drain pipe as needed. This will come in handy for when your fish get back into the overflow or if you have a snail/debris get into the drainpipe. even with the guard on the drainpipe's U shape, you will need to pull it out to clean nori or whatever else floats back there. Just last night i had to pull my drain pipe to free a wrasse that made his way into the back area.

makes sense..... I'll definitely consider access and maintenance when I do plumb it, most will be glued, and I'll definitely have unions so that I can remove segments as needed.... and hopefully I'll be moving in a few years when the lil lady says yes and we go down that road together . thanks for the tips.....
will be adding the ply on top and bottom, going to paint the bottom white once it's in place with a water resistant type paint because I can imagine it'll be pretty wet down there often when I'm pulling filter socks and chaeto in and out.

 

[davocean]

Looks good, and I can appreciate your nail/screw pattern, things like that stick out to me when someone takes their time and puts thought into that.
I'm sure this will look nice when finished.

 

[Tony S]

1st coat done, waiting for the 2nd, but went with a light grey satin finish....

 

[Bugsy_Barboza]

Looks great! Nice job @Tony S

 

[ca1ore]

I built my own stand for my prior ML265 with identical corner overflows. Jus make sure you can easily access the bulkhead nuts underneath. I failed to account for this and it was a big problem.

 

[Tony S]

Thank you, definitely an effort of love, will put the top plywood on and will paint it and the outside and door black

Looks great! Nice job @Tony S