Do I really want to switch to an SPS dominant system?

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BAMatter

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Flow is more important for SPS then PAR. IMO.

I run an 80G cube, I run 2 mp10's, 2 jebao pp8's, 2 nero3's, and RFG nozzles on my returns. Granted I don't run all these on 100%, but I do run them all at the same time to create random flow patterns. Corals do not like laminar(one way) flow.
I can add a couple more OctoPulse 2’s and run 4 pumps…
 

homer1475

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Wow yea I can see NO3 levels like that but never thought PO4 that high… crazy. See this is the info i need, thanks. Couple people jumping down my throat. Musta struck a nerve.
The problem with forums, you will get all kinds of answer. @((FORDTECH)) wasn't wrong with the information provided, same as my initial response. Once we delve further into it, we see what your intent was.

Remember, written word never reflects tone, and often times what seems harsh to you, may not have at all been meant to be presented in that way. Just keep a cool head, and don't respond to what you perceive as a threat, just try to explain yourself.
 

TheDragonsReef

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Yep I’m aware that is totally my issue… I admit my faults. I’m looking to get any tips for the future as my tank matures. Not planning on any big changes any time soon. Just going to test water and do what needs to be done to stabilize it.

Wondering what people are doing for parameters, PAR, etc.
Parameters will range alot but the ranges the average hobbyists find success and also where my coral do well are:

Temp 78
Salinity 1.025-26
Alk 7.5-9
Cal 420-480
Mag 1350-1500
Nitrate 3-15
Phosphate 0.03-0.10

The parameters i find most important to hold stable are alkalinity, calcium and phosphates. You can find success outside these values but i run all of my tanks around these areas and have success keeping every kind of coral. At high alk above 10, lps and softies dont seem to grow as well but Sps does fine.

Par ranges for sps dominant systems will want the floor to be around 250-300 and the higher areas at 450ish. That way you can keep sps even at the lower areas

Flow is probably the hardest to get down for new sps keepers. Montis dont need a lot of flow they just dont want detritus settling on them. Acros should have as much random flow as possible. If your looking at an open acro polyp it should be constantly blown around lightly preferably in multiples directions but sometimes when theyre near a pump its not always possible. As long as the polyps are moving frequently on all the corals and theyre not being directly blasted theyre usually pretty happy for me.
 

homer1475

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Also keep in mind....

People always want pristine looking reefs. The natural reefs are not pristine, there is always something that we consider undesirable growing somewhere. In our tanks, it's the biomass(corals fish, microfauna, etc) that uptake nutrients before algae has a chance at them.

With that said, if you don't have algae growing somehwhere, you can't grow corals.
 
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The problem with forums, you will get all kinds of answer. @((FORDTECH)) wasn't wrong with the information provided, same as my initial response. Once we delve further into it, we see what your intent was.

Remember, written word never reflects tone, and often times what seems harsh to you, may not have at all been meant to be presented in that way. Just keep a cool head, and don't respond to what you perceive as a threat, just try to explain yourself.
I understand that. It’s all good. Just looking for help and some responses I was getting seemed like they were based on me directly saying something entirely different.
 

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Historically, I’ve always like having euphyllia dominant systems. The looks, colors, movement, etc… BUT, historically I’ve always struggled keeping them. Plenty of planning just to watch them whither away and melt. It’s like a rollercoaster for me. Monitoring water, dosing, watching good growth… and then melting time- but while nutrients are lower I seem to enjoy watching SPS grow.

That said, other than obvious higher and more stable care needs for SPS over LPS, what are some insider tips for success if I were to consider an SPS dominated system

Some system info:

My tank is a 75 gallon with a 34” Trigger Systems V2 set up for Triton Method dosing off of a RedSea ReefDose. Skimmer is a ReefOcto 152S. I have plenty of nutrient export power with the fuge, and have already bottomed out NO3 and PO4, which I’m feeding heavily and dosing ESV Nitrate to help bring levels back up. Also running 2 Hydra 64HD’s so I have plenty of lighting power for SPS. I also run a 15 watt UV, and a Bashsea reactor for carbon or GFO.

Tank has been running since January and have already been hit with a couple issues from moving too fast, nutrients too high, too low, and everything in between, but things are settling down. I’m confident I can create a stable SPS environment.

I am NOT willing to re-do any filtration equipment or dosing modalities. IE setting up a CARX.

Hoping to open a nice dialogue with some tried and trued methods and advice. I’ve never had an SPS tank but think I’d fully enjoy one.

Thanks!
-Ben
If you used live rock and have a scrubber or some other nutrient control method you can pull it off. But it's a gamble. I've done it and got away with it and another time I melted a birdsnest first thing. Up to you. Good luck.
 
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If you used live rock and have a scrubber or some other nutrient control method you can pull it off. But it's a gamble. I've done it and got away with it and another time I melted a birdsnest first thing. Up to you. Good luck.
Thanks. I used dry rock to start and the Red Sea Reef Mature dosing kit to cycle- not looking to drop 20 sticks in my system at the time being- considering over time. I do feel my filtration can handle it
 

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DeniseAndy

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Biggest part of this hobby is research and finding the right balance for your tank. With sps, make sure you have good flow, lighting, water stability. They hate swings of alkalinity, so plan to have that one measured regularly. Dosing will be necessary as they grow and use the elements and minerals of the water.

Live rock will get you some great biodiversity. Even if it is a small amount.

Good luck!
 
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Biggest part of this hobby is research and finding the right balance for your tank. With sps, make sure you have good flow, lighting, water stability. They hate swings of alkalinity, so plan to have that one measured regularly. Dosing will be necessary as they grow and use the elements and minerals of the water.

Live rock will get you some great biodiversity. Even if it is a small amount.

Good luck!
Thanks. Trying to do as much research as I can. Was thinking of adding some of the MarinePure bioballs from my other tank tank that’s been up for a little over a year.
 

homer1475

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The best advice I was ever given oh so many years ago....

Were not keeping fish and corals in a box, were keeping water in a box. The fish and coral are just "window dressing"/"awards" for keeping that water.

In other words....

Keep the water pristine, and everything else will fall in line.
 

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I’d chk out the sps forum and hit some guys up there who know what they are doing and are willing to share methods, helpful advice and images of their tanks and set ups. I’m always leery of advice without seeing the proof. Just saying. Good luck in the transition when ready.
 

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If you want to try SPS then I say go for it… just start out easy. Cliffs acro is a great starter piece for acros… try some montis or birdsnest, mint pavona, and stylo.

Ya you had some problems but you just got to work to catch and fix them. If you started with dry rock then it may be challenging to do SPS for a long while.

Don’t go SPS cuz everyone else does though. Only if you really love those corals. I am pulling my SPS and adding more soft corals and finding I love the softies more.
 

homer1475

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I’d chk out the sps forum and hit some guys up there who know what they are doing and are willing to share methods, helpful advice and images of their tanks and set ups. I’m always leery of advice without seeing the proof. Just saying. Good luck in the transition when ready.
Thats what build threads are for!

And as they are linked to the badge under the username, makes them super easy to search out.
 

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Pm me if you want some help.
Check my build thread.
20220106_131923.jpg
20220403_161741.jpg
20220403_161808.jpg

I also have a nano cube all sps thats 3 months old.
I have helped a few in the past.
This way you get dirrect access to my 30+ years of reefing.
This is my 120 that I just took down. Also my current frag system and nano.
 
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Pm me if you want some help.
Check my build thread.
20220106_131923.jpg
20220403_161741.jpg
20220403_161808.jpg

I also have a nano cube all sps thats 3 months old.
I have helped a few in the past.
This way you get dirrect access to my 30+ years of reefing.
This is my 120 that I just took down. Also my current frag system and nano.
Thanks
 

terraincognita

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TLDR All responses but saw a few...

You can keep SPS in a month old tank if you're an experienced reefer. I only bring this up as there's a lot of time's people just throw out "Your tank's not mature enough" Which in all honesty I've only seen trouble with Nem's and ACTUAL tank maturity ever. which is because I've a hunch Nems are very Bacteria and microbiome sensitive, which a lot of new reefs have these out of wack Microbiomes.

I've never been able to link coral dying to a "tank" being too new. Rather the tank was "new" and so was the reefer.....

Case in point. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-new-sps-tank.674002/page-23#post-10115245

Look at this guy's bare bottom. But he's an Experienced reefer. He packed his tank with SPS after 50 days and I'm pretty sure he used dry rock as well.

-----------------------------------


With that said. You also are having problems keeping LPS alive, Euph's to boot, which in MY experience have been some of the easier to keep alive LPS.

you can keeps LPS and SPS in the same system, you can have a mixed reef. They will all be happy and survive just fine and grow if you know your stuff.



Anyway point is. Slow down a bit, if you're having trouble with LPS there is a REASON why. You need to find the REASON, that's the biggest learning curve in this hobby and where a lot of people give up is not being able to "solve" whatever it is that's actually going wrong, and then moving on to " something else" in hopes it'll work, but eventually it all spirals and snowballs into crashes and people leaving the hobby and they never post here again. If you're having trouble with your LPS you'll have STN on all your SPS and then be posting back here "Why are my SPS tips bleaching out" etc etc. Which we'll help you then, but it's better to just figure out what you're not fixing in your current system now.

With that said my TIPS for SPS is STABILITY is KING with SPS. It's not about #'s it's about Stability in your system, finding your own systems "equilibrium" and then planning and working to make sure it stays in that band with the smallest margin of error possible. (Ideally as naturally as possible too, which is why a lot of people refer to "maturity" with a tank as the more mature the easier that becomes to achieve naturally). As your tank grows, ages and changes, you will have to constantly adjust your schedules and dosing etc as well, and if you're not ready to be in a never ending chemistry/science world, (At least til the tanks a few years old and you've got your thick reefer skin by then) then don't do it.
 

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you need to know what your doing, and be able to monitor and correct parameters as they change. You don’t need to do daily tests, weekly is fine but just keep an eye on things and don’t let anything go ‘off’. If you can do this you should be fine so it is possible, but if you can’t you may have issues.
This for me is a huge part of why I think I've done decently well with sps after coming back into the hobby from a 10yr absence. Testing too much leads to too much tweaking, things will be fine as long as the changes are slow. Hooking up a doser was a complete game changer for me, I can now keep my alk pretty stable through the week. Waterchanges every weekend have been big too, ill notice growth slow down without doing a WC for a couple weeks. Keep my nitrates around 15-20 and keep my hands out of the tank as much as possible. Ive got birdsnest growing so fast it needs monthly trimmings and my sps are getting large enough that when I do get in the tank its starting to become a challenge not to make accidental frags. Now all that came after adding things too early and suffering a good amount of losses until my system stabilized around the 7/8month mark. Keep an open mind to what everyone has to say and once you decide your route stick to it.
 
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This for me is a huge part of why I think I've done decently well with sps after coming back into the hobby from a 10yr absence. Testing too much leads to too much tweaking, things will be fine as long as the changes are slow. Hooking up a doser was a complete game changer for me, I can now keep my alk pretty stable through the week. Waterchanges every weekend have been big too, ill notice growth slow down without doing a WC for a couple weeks. Keep my nitrates around 15-20 and keep my hands out of the tank as much as possible. Ive got birdsnest growing so fast it needs monthly trimmings and my sps are getting large enough that when I do get in the tank its starting to become a challenge not to make accidental frags. Now all that came after adding things too early and suffering a good amount of losses until my system stabilized around the 7/8month mark. Keep an open mind to what everyone has to say and once you decide your route stick to it.
Thanks buddy.
 

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I vote … if your system is mature , stable and sps is what you want . Why not at least try .
a few cheaper frags will let you know if you’re ready or not
 

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