Does “Natural Sun Light” ever strike your tank?

Glenner’sreef

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Although I have some seriously decent lighting (Kessil A360x) I really look forward to summer when the evening sun comes through our family room window for about an hour. My whitish blue sand looks even more so. Love it! And my rockscape just comes alive. Cool to look at. My Derasa and gorgs and Neon Green Leather are the only corals that happen to be in the line of sight of this ultimate Metal Halide from 83 million miles away.
Just thought it was interesting.
C60E685D-2455-40BD-88B4-6290D492761E.jpeg
 

mkereefer

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Although I have some seriously decent lighting (Kessil A360x) I really look forward to summer when the evening sun comes through our family room window for about an hour. My whitish blue sand looks even more so. Love it! And my rockscape just comes alive. Cool to look at. My Derasa and gorgs and Neon Green Leather are the only corals that happen to be in the line of sight of this ultimate Metal Halide from 83 million miles away.
Just thought it was interesting.
C60E685D-2455-40BD-88B4-6290D492761E.jpeg
Throughout the day usually around noon my tank gets a big beem right on.
 
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Glenner’sreef

Glenner’sreef

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My frag system gets sunlight in the morning. This last weekend I was curious and pulled out the par meter. 600+ In the brightest spot.
Testing par on the sun!!! First time I’ve heard that! Amazing.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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As other have noted, the look of real sunlight hitting tank creatures beats the artificial lights I was using (mh and fluorescents).
 

exnisstech

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One tank gets a little in the morning. I agree everything that it touches definatly looks better than under the led lights. I used to have a 180 gallon freshwater with some beautiful south American cichlids that the full tank got sunlight for a couple hours in the morning. That was my favorite time to watch the fish.
 
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Glenner’sreef

Glenner’sreef

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One tank gets a little in the morning. I agree everything that it touches definatly looks better than under the led lights. I used to have a 180 gallon freshwater with some beautiful south American cichlids that the full tank got sunlight for a couple hours in the morning. That was my favorite time to watch the fish.
Totally get it!!! :)
 
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Glenner’sreef

Glenner’sreef

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As other have noted, the look of real sunlight hitting tank creatures beats the artificial lights I was using (mh and fluorescents).
True!!! So Randy, as you chimed in, I thought??? Is there a success component with different lights and different chemistries?
 

Fishy888

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My 40 breeder in the family room doesn't get any sun. My 82 billion gallon tank 10 minutes away only gets natural sun.

Here's an old thread on RC where the reefkeeper added solatubes over their tank to capture natural sunlight.
When I saw this post I thought of the solatubes. I just couldn't remember what they were called. I have to read that post again.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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True!!! So Randy, as you chimed in, I thought??? Is there a success component with different lights and different chemistries?

I don't know of a clear reason to alter chemistry based on lighting type or intensity. But if more light intensity leads to faster calcification of SPS corals, then it may be more important to ensure sufficient N and P to avoid burnt tips in intense lighting.
 
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Glenner’sreef

Glenner’sreef

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I don't know of a clear reason to alter chemistry based on lighting type or intensity. But if more light intensity leads to faster calcification of SPS corals, then it may be more important to ensure sufficient N and P to avoid burnt tips in intense lighting.
Do you support the 10(N) to 1(P) ratio? I’m carefully watching that and trying to create that balance. Thx. :)
 

mindme

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Do you support the 10(N) to 1(P) ratio? I’m carefully watching that and trying to create that balance. Thx. :)

I think that's been proven to be false. 10 nitrate to 1 P would mean you should have like less than 1 nitrate also, and that is on the high end(0.08) for the phosphate.

Basically, you'll want to keep phosphates between 0.03 and 0.08, and your nitrates can honestly be whatever, but I would personally look to stay above 5 minimum. So that's like 62.5 to 1 ratio at best, more likely close to 100 to 1 or more in most cases.

The main thing is - you don't want to bottom them out. Nitrates you can let go decently high without issue, but phosphates you'll likely want to maintain at a lower amount, otherwise you will likely get things like cyano outbreaks etc.
 

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