Does anyone else enjoy DIY as much as livestock?

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Strawberry

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My point was, Raspberry Pi and all the stuff to write your own ReefPi (from scratch) is a bit complicated. I mean doing it all yourself.
Doing a ReefPi by instructions is simple, since someone did all the figuring out, coding for you. Then you plug and play with modules, features, and customization.

Ardino is actually more complicated (in some ways) since you have to know the bits and bytes for complex coding. But to turn on a relay, or write to a display, it also simple. (You install libraries)

Ardinos boot in 1/100 of a second. Pi's take about 1 minute.

The difference between the two is Raspberry PI is an operating system (Linux), and software installed like a Windows computer, with a bunch of Ports for controlling stuff. Python and C are the best way to control things. I prefer C.

Ardiuno is Machine code, low level programming (only). Just like a Raspberry PI using "C" code.
What do you mean by “C” code? Is it like ladder logic format? I’m pretty familiar with ladder logic and PLCs.
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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My point was, Raspberry Pi and all the stuff to write your own ReefPi (from scratch) is a bit complicated. I mean doing it all yourself.
Doing a ReefPi by instructions is simple, since someone did all the figuring out, coding for you. Then you plug and play with modules, features, and customization.

Ardino is actually more complicated (in some ways) since you have to know the bits and bytes for complex coding. But to turn on a relay, or write to a display, it also simple. (You install libraries)

Ardinos boot in 1/100 of a second. Pi's take about 1 minute.

The difference between the two is Raspberry PI is an operating system (Linux), and software installed like a Windows computer, with a bunch of Ports for controlling stuff. Python and C are the best way to control things. I prefer C.

Ardiuno is Machine code, low level programming (only). Just like a Raspberry PI using "C" code.

Yeah if I had to write my Reef Pi, well... I wouldn't lol. But, thankfully, it's already written and open for use and I see no point in re-inventing the wheel.

That being said, if the intent was to build a controller from the ground up...then unfortunately, I can't contribute much of anything as I have no idea how to code. ;Bookworm
 

Sisterlimonpot

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That will work, but let me take this chance to intro you to something different which is smart Control....(Take it or Leave it)

Float switches can get stuck, move, fall, etc Even double failures for the Shut Off. Two floats can yo-yo your water levels. Relay can fail too. What happens when you ATO hose disconnects and falls on Floor (Happened to me)

A simple little $3 controller, a DC driven AC relay, with like 15 lines of code could add some simple logic to turn on/off the pump (with single Float switch), but also give you a safety cut off, Alarm, Timer based.
The AC power could be in a proper Sealed Electrical box with a Wall Outlet for the Pump Plug.

The 2nd Float switch could be used for ALARM if overfill happens. (Basically the same as a Tunze Osmolator)

Much safer too (low Voltage Control)

Once you learn the simple programming of an Ardiuno, you'll be able to design all kind of DIY wonders.
I was introduced to Ardiuno by mistake (a kit bought for son, and Son wasn't interested), I opened the box one day and haven't gone back. Way cheaper/faster/better than like RaspberryPi.

These are the parts: (to give you an idea)

- The Ardiuno Nano Controller ($3), which could do way more than a Top up. (Runs off USB, or 5 Volt Adapter)



- A 5 Volt Driven AC/DC Relay (that handle the 120V AC Pump, or DC pump) ($5 or less each),


TWO CHOICES:
- The float switch (magnetic), ($2)


- or The Ardiuno can also driven an Optical Water Level Sensor at 5 Volts (more accurate, 1 extra wire)
- The optical Water sensor (OPTICAL), ($3.33)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32846001263.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.555cf85baXvM9M&algo_pvid=3b83e985-ce5c-4333-a8c8-6d3327d4cb55&algo_expid=3b83e985-ce5c-4333-a8c8-6d3327d4cb55-0&btsid=24da5ee0-001d-47b7-b98e-817c24f6b726&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_9,searchweb201603_52

*** BTW ** the LAST Link above is to Aliexpress where I get most of my parts at 1/10 the price of Amazon or 1/20 the price of Hobby stores***
*** It's a long wait for shipping from China, but I stock up for future DIY project ***********

LASTLY THE CODE:

The code is something like: (If Water low, ON) (if Water Level, OFF) (If pump run longer than 1 minutes, OFF, ALARM)
You could add a push button to snooze the AUTo during Maitenance. LED for Low, Full.
Possibilities are endless with the $3 Ardiuno.

Just tossing this out there, and I'd be willing to show the Really simple wiring, and the simple code.

The ATO can be as simple as the first one I made (with extras like display, for stats, etc)
Still running on my Frag Tank.
(Cheap DC Pump so Zero Dangerous AC)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32592701696.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.48017da3R4Fveu&algo_pvid=7a2ac263-c0e4-4bb8-bda3-2692cf6c4ef9&algo_expid=7a2ac263-c0e4-4bb8-bda3-2692cf6c4ef9-5&btsid=59df011d-abcb-4b85-b270-49dccd9058ce&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_9,searchweb201603_52
Ato.jpg


Or this one I made for a Friend, that is an AutoTopUp, but could also be a Doser with more DC Pumps (and advanced Programming)
Has plenty of Fun Light Show LEDS.
AtoPlus.jpg


My ATOs above may be overkill, and maybe you want to avoid programming (since a computer is needed to upload code into the Controller...ONCE)

(Sorry to intrude)....At least look at Aliexpress WEB SITE for PARTS. I used to waste money, till I discovered the web site.

That's pretty neat. I too was introduced to arduino by accident, never played with raspberry pi. I made a precision peristaltic pump with a stepper motor for my calcium reactor. was a fraction of the price of the kamoer fx-stp. It's only been on my system for about 4 months, but so far it's holding consistent KH numbers.

It can be calibrated within 0.001 of a ml. and can dose automatically or manually, run constantly from 0.01 - 120.0 ml per minute.





Then I made a dual head one for AWC



a4wDJmzl.jpg


kl7EPnAl.jpg


RkolJ2xl.jpg
 

WallyB

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What do you mean by “C” code? Is it like ladder logic format? I’m pretty familiar with ladder logic and PLCs.
We'll I've never played with PLC's and the way Ladder Logic is used, since that appears to be for you Industrial Engineer types.
So I google it up.

It's totally different language from what I see. Very Graphical and pure logic.
I guess the Editor make some kind of code that goes into the PLC controller which runs the Logic on Switched, motors, etc. You obviously know you could use a PLC controller to make a ATO, but that would be expensive.

So NO, PLC is nothing like C. C programming is programming, and when you finish you code, it compiles into machine language that a CPU runs directly (And it could do exactly what PLC does IF-THIS-THEN-THAT). Super fast like a PLC controller.

Since you are not doing Computer Science, then "C" is probably not up your alley. Neither would be Python, etc.
You'd be better off just going with a Reef Pi, and customize the code/sofware that the developer made.
 

WallyB

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That's pretty neat. I too was introduced to arduino by accident, never played with raspberry pi. I made a precision peristaltic pump with a stepper motor for my calcium reactor. was a fraction of the price of the kamoer fx-stp. It's only been on my system for about 4 months, but so far it's holding consistent KH numbers.

It can be calibrated within 0.001 of a ml. and can dose automatically or manually, run constantly from 0.01 - 120.0 ml per minute.





Then I made a dual head one for AWC



a4wDJmzl.jpg


kl7EPnAl.jpg


RkolJ2xl.jpg

Nice work. Looks like 3D printer case part, with some acrylic cut sides.

Someday I want to get into 3D printing, since then I could build better cases than I do now. I just re-use stuff.
(If you look at the photo of the Fancy ATO I made. It's a IPod Case for front, and the Back clear case is from Car Headlight bulb packaging).

Our local library has like 5 advanced 3D printers. You submit the Project online and pick up your 3Dprint. $2 a print plug how much material you use or something like that. I took the Library intro course, but never got into it.

And I do agree, that with Aridiuno you have Super precision, even over a basic DC motor. No need for Stepper.
If you haven't coded this into your logic, I added a Hard Coded Max limit no mater what the dose it. Just for safety if you or someone ever make a mistake.

Notice that you use the same Blue LCD Display which has a great Blue Glow and good Contrast.

Are you using a RTC module to keep time, with a Coin Battery so clock (Date/Time) stays accurate if when power goes off?
All my schedule projects, use RTC. The Coin Battery keeps clock for 12 years when powered off.

Again. very nice work.
I watched the Video, and I love the Spin/push button to drive menus. That's REALLY COOL. (Compact)
I always use 3 button logic for that, but I will look into your idea for the Future project.
Share the Part for that dial/push button. (I wonder if that's an Encoder, or just mometary push switch driven)
Cool, I actually learned something new. THANKS!!

What does your DOSER LOOK LIKE INSIDE? Spaghetti wiring like my projects. Or nice and tidy, or even better Custom Circuit board (I always want to do that, but once built, I never go back)
 
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Sisterlimonpot

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Nice work. Looks like 3D printer case part, with some acrylic cut sides.

Someday I want to get into 3D printing, since then I could build better cases than I do now. I just re-use stuff.
(If you look at the photo of the Fancy ATO I made. It's a IPod Case for front, and the Back clear case is from Car Headlight bulb packaging).

Our local library has like 5 advanced 3D printers. You submit the Project online and pick up your 3Dprint. $2 a print plug how much material you use or something like that. I took the Library intro course, but never got into it.

And I do agree, that with Aridiuno you have Super precision, even over a basic DC motor. No need for Stepper.
If you haven't coded this into your logic, I added a Hard Coded Max limit no mater what the dose it. Just for safety if you or someone ever make a mistake.

Notice that you use the same Blue LCD Display which has a great Blue Glow and good Contrast.

Are you using a RTC module to keep time, with a Coin Battery so clock (Date/Time) stays accurate if when power goes off?
All my schedule projects, use RTC. The Coin Battery keeps clock for 12 years when powered off.

Again. very nice work.
I watched the Video, and I love the Spin/push button to drive menus. That's REALLY COOL. (Compact)
I always use 3 button logic for that, but I will look into your idea for the Future project.
Share the Part for that dial/push button. (I wonder if that's an Encoder, or just mometary push switch driven)
Cool, I actually learned something new. THANKS!!

What does your DOSER LOOK LIKE INSIDE? Spaghetti wiring like my projects. Or nice and tidy, or even better Custom Circuit board (I always want to do that, but once built, I never go back)

I don't know if I could make multiple trips to the library for printing. I'm building a skimmer neck squeegee and have been tweaking the design for the last 3 days. the 3d printer works over time, only getting a break when I'm sleeping.

up to this point I never worked with a stepper motor, I really wanted to dive into that aspect of it. I didn't use RTC, I ended up relying in millis() to get close enough. In retrospect I should've started with it.

The LCD is the standard 1602, plenty of arduino libraries to choose from



and the rotary encoders are:



again plenty of libraries for that one too.

The inside is pretty much spaghetti let me look for some photos

azwZtjsl.jpg


That's really the only one, you can see everything dangling out of this one...

dWCLXJsl.jpg
 

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I don't know if I could make multiple trips to the library for printing. I'm building a skimmer neck squeegee and have been tweaking the design for the last 3 days. the 3d printer works over time, only getting a break when I'm sleeping.

up to this point I never worked with a stepper motor, I really wanted to dive into that aspect of it. I didn't use RTC, I ended up relying in millis() to get close enough. In retrospect I should've started with it.

The LCD is the standard 1602, plenty of arduino libraries to choose from



and the rotary encoders are:



again plenty of libraries for that one too.

The inside is pretty much spaghetti let me look for some photos

azwZtjsl.jpg


That's really the only one, you can see everything dangling out of this one...

dWCLXJsl.jpg

Wiring looks tidy, and same jumpers I love.
Thanks for the Encoder tip.
BTW, you probably know this, but for the LCD Display you can get the exact same one but with an I2C module built in. Then you just need 2 wires, plus 5v and Gnd.
And a i2c library.


or again ALIEXPRESSS for 1/10 the price.
 
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I will research this as I am ready to add more automation. I really appreciate everything you guys have contributed to this thread and hope that I can lean on you when I have more in depth questions :cool:
 

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I will research this as I am ready to add more automation. I really appreciate everything you guys have contributed to this thread and hope that I can lean on you when I have more in depth questions :cool:
I think we've all said enough, so let's get back to your Tank, your setup and what you are going to do with all this Knowledge Overload to fill it with thriving Colorful fish and Corals. (Which is a totally different Challenge on it's own)
 
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I think we've all said enough, so let's get back to your Tank, your setup and what you are going to do with all this Knowledge Overload to fill it with thriving Colorful fish and Corals. (Which is a totally different Challenge on it's own)
I have been trying to just get my lighting right and make sure that my tank is cycled. Just purchased 2 snowflake clowns and an arrow crab for bristleworm control! My live rock was pretty much infested. He’s doing a great job eating bristleworms but I caught him gorging on one of my small CUC hermits so that was a little sad. A small price to pay, though. I think the biggest thing I’m focused on right now is just finding out how much my tank is consuming and what I should do to keep my parameters constant.
 
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6162BD16-3911-4FEE-975F-D596F6420033.jpeg

So I ditched the top altogether and upgraded my protein skimmer to a Aquamaxx 1.5 HOB skimmer from @MarineDepot they were running an awesome sale of 20% off! Excuse the mess lol today was my water change day and the chair is the only way I can reach the bottom of the tank to vacuum my sand :D
 

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I am new to this hobby and I’ve come to learn that the DIY portion seems to be just as satisfying as routine tank maintenance and even placing corals. I started with a heavily modded Biocube 29g that I purchased from someone getting out of the hobby. It was basically a rescue mission and I just feel really accomplished with the results. Anyways here’s Wonderwall

Before:
ED31CDC3-ADCB-46F0-98D8-D45E2FE8A122.png


After:
5A5D3F7A-4DB1-4F15-88F9-1B8E188355CE.jpeg


6576C109-D743-4DC7-B001-BC87FA849446.jpeg


I made a couple of brackets out of lexan and added a nice concealed top.
I love the DIY aspects. I build all my own stands plumbing etc

20191124_110118.jpg 20190304_173112.jpg 20180903_170056.jpg
 
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