Wait if I'm using a 20 gallon trash can that is only a 9 gallons less than me putting it in the tank....is it still advantageous for me to do the bucket method? Since you said the biggest advantage is 100% water change and saving money...couldn't I just not fill the tank all the way? I'm just wondering
It's fine and it's not fine. I was just ranting in the dino mega thread on this topic, because it's hard for us noobs to figure it all out. The cool thing about dry rock is that it's free of bad stuff. The bad thing about dry rock is that it's free of good stuff tooYeah that is what I initially wanted to do just cycle it in the tank.....there wasnt goint be any livestock in there till the nitrogen cycle was done and I was going to use Caribsea Agra live sand and Dr. Tims One and Only. I didnt use live rock because I thought from what I read that you could possibly get some bad things with the rocks I wanted to avoid that if possible but now I dont know if going dry was such a great idea
As soon as you steal something from another tank - you run the risk of introducing bad - aptasia, pests, etc. But if you don't - it takes a VERY long time for all the biodiversity to show up. It's a bit of danged if you do, danged if you don't. Can't do that if it's stuffed full of expensive corals. Then once you've gotten past all the bad stuff, and your dry rock has become "live" you can start adding corals and whatnot.
Cycling in the tank is not a problem. If you already have the tank set up do it. If you are waiting on the tank to be set up, get them in a bucket and start the cycle. The 20 gallon Brute can be used for mixing your saltwater to add to the tank for the first fill and the larger water changes you will do. It is also a great place to hold you RODI water.
Well the tank is not set up yet but do have everything to set it up. Why no sand if I do it in the tank?
There is anecdotal evidence that adding lots of corals at the beginning actually helps build biodiversity. You can't wait for the biodiversity to happen. The microfauna has to come from somewhere. That is why I recommend ipsf.com. I had very little of the ugly stage. Other than the mistakes I made. I didn't harvest chaeto once and I created multiple larger issues because of that.It's fine and it's not fine. I was just ranting in the dino mega thread on this topic, because it's hard for us noobs to figure it all out. The cool thing about dry rock is that it's free of bad stuff. The bad thing about dry rock is that it's free of good stuff too
Again - my tank is a year old - what the heck to do I know? Lots of people here with a lot more experience than me. But you absolutely can just throw your dry rock into the tank and wait it out. If you do that, I'd recommend adding some bacteria like you mentioned. Then I'd add some fish, and honestly, just let it be a FOWLR tank for a while. ya ya, you CAN add corals before fish - but you're asking for it if you end up with a big dino outbreak. If you have no corals, and you go get a massive dino or algae problem - you've got the easiest solution in the books, just turn off your lights
The problem is when you're new - you can't wait that long. And you do what we all do - throw things in there way too early, and the old timers start waving their canes at you shouting "slow down!" And they are right
It will make it easier to remove the water. Once PO4 is lower, add the sand. If your PO4 doesn't rise, add the sand. PO4 attaches to the sand and rock. It will release and be added to the water column. This is one of the biggest issued with dry rock. That is why I do the 100% water changes. You could also add a bag of Chemipure Elite if the PO4 is high.
Oh okay I see...yeah I actually have some Chemipure blue I think on hand......I just need to get a PO4 test then.
okay will I also be using an ammonia source? I bought Dr. Tims ammonia and the one and only
After the large water change, use a different one. Fritz turbo start or MB XLM if you want. I ghost feed with a cube of freeze dried mysis. You can use the ammonia if you want. Be careful to not overdose. Every part of ammonia becomes an exact amount of nitrates. The 100% water changes will remove NO3. It doesn't bind to rocks or sand. Check out ipsf.com They are awesome. I recommend the live sand, mud, and bacteria. They are very small amounts, but it works to help mature your tank faster and add biodiversity without the pests. I would add it right after you start adding fish.
Yeah I will check them out for sure. I was planning on just following the instructions on the bottle of ammonia will that work?....Why add a different bacteria source? Sorry for all the questions just trying to learn lol
You don't have to use different sources. I got a couple free bottles with sand and other things I did. It just doesn't hurt. Each brand uses different bacteria. Nitrifying bacteria is everywhere though. It will happen no matter what you do. The bottles just speed it up a little. My goal for a new tank is to build up as large of a nitrifying bacteria load as quickly as possible so I can add the majority of my fish load as soon as possible. The bacteria will populate directly to amount of ammonia being added to the tank. By constantly ghost feeding and doing lots of water changes I was able to add all 5 fish and a couple of shrimp to a 30g tank inside of a month with no problems and 0 ammonia spikes.
Nice! That would save on shipping if I go with online retailers
They send less than a cup of each. Next time I will put it in a mesh bag instead for adding the sand straight to my tank. It is large pieces and I don't like the look of it sitting on top of my sand. I pulled out the macro algae in each bag and dumped everything in the bag into my tank or fuge. The micro hermits are awesome, they are too small to kill your snails. I will be ordering the micro stars next time as well.
Do you have a pic of them?
Sorry I don't. I can try to take a pic of a micro hermit if I see one. They are a little thing, maybe a 1/4 of an inch. They sent some cool snails. It all comes in plastic bags. Just put the bags in the tank and let them sit there for 20 minutes or so to come up to temp, remove the algae, and dump in. You could add the algae to a fuge if you have one. They send ulva and I had a break out of it in my DT. It took me a bit to get rid of it. If you have a sump and a fuge, I would add everything minus the algae to it. Otherwise, put the sand in a mesh bag.Do you have a pic of them?
Yeah no sump or fuge just a HOB filter....but all of this is added after the tank is cycled or while it is being cycled to jump start the cycle?
