Effects of tap water on Nitrifying during Rip-Clean method: Experiment

[sixty_reefer]

I do not think you can completely conclude this either. Your tank MAY have reduced ammonia based on heterotrophs - as evidenced by your large bacterial bloom - as well as potentially other things on your rock. Unfortunately we don't have a way to measure 'nitrifying bacteria' vs 'heterotrophs/algae, etc'. You might be right though

Probably not, @Coxey81 test do point out that way, plus the Third test I’ve performed the other day. There is one way to find out approximately, unfortunately the test not been performed or suggested yet.

 

[MnFish1]

plus the Third test I’ve performed the other day. There is one way to find out approximately, unfortunately the test not been performed or suggested yet.

Can you do me a favor - I know we discussed this the other day when I was gone out of town - can you remind me what the 'third test is' - and I'll add it in.

 

[sixty_reefer]

Can you do me a favor - I know we discussed this the other day when I was gone out of town - can you remind me what the 'third test is' - and I'll add it in.

My third test was just submerging the rock for 8 min also, without scrubbing or tank cleaning. We’re no reduction in ppm was observed.
What am trying to suggest is that the tank water and biofilm should be analysed. I would add a test were the rock is removed from the tank to try and calculate if the glass is giving you more filtration than the rock, from there you should probably be able to calculate how much ppm the rock was doing alone. I would add this to the dark test

 

[MnFish1]

@Dan_P @taricha and anyone else interested - I had posed a question to Seneye about whether high levels of total ammonia (like 8 ppm at pH 8.6) - similar to one of your experiments - would affect Seneye free ammonia readings: Here is there answer:

"The seneye would read correctly on all parameters except NH3 which could be over-exposed. It would be over the NH3 read limit.
A high level of prolonged exposure would make it hard for the slide to work well after"

I couldn't remember the exact thread (I think it was the prime detoxifying thread - but I posted it here - just to make the point - that Seneye also made previously - that for 'experiments' the Seneye is not perhaps the correct tool. It is designed specifically to work best in 'tank conditions' - i.e. day to day.

 

[taricha]

Unfortunately we don't have a way to measure 'nitrifying bacteria' vs 'heterotrophs/algae, etc'.

You can.
Track the total NO2+NO3 nitrogen produced. Photosynthetic uptake produces none.

 

[MnFish1]

You can.
Track the total NO2+NO3 nitrogen produced. Photosynthetic uptake produces none.

Yes - I'm going to have to buy a lower range Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate kit - any recommendations?

 

[Lasse]

There is one instrument that can be used for all - Mastertronic - but it cost a lot.

For nitrite - Hannal ULR marine nitrite checker. For nitrate - I do not know about the new Hanna high NO3 checker - Hanna Low Nitrate checker is OK for concentrations below 5 - but take some time. For higher than 5 - is worser than others. If you have a good colour vision - Fauna Marine NO2/NO3 or Tropic Marine Pro NO2/NO3 can be good - ammonia - i do not know,

Sincerely Lasse

 

[MnFish1]

There is one instrument that can be used for all - Mastertronic - but it cost a lot.

For nitrite - Hannal ULR marine nitrite checker. For nitrate - I do not know about the new Hanna high NO3 checker - Hanna Low Nitrate checker is OK for concentrations below 5 - but take some time. For higher than 5 - is worser than others. If you have a good colour vision - Fauna Marine NO2/NO3 or Tropic Marine Pro NO2/NO3 can be good - ammonia - i do not know,

Sincerely Lasse

You're correct @Lasse the master saltwater API test kit is for 'high levels'. I did not see one for 'low levels'. I will look into a Hanna Low-range nitrite checker. I would hope that the seachem alert will suffice for Free NH3 - as compared to seneye (which was not possible)

 

[Lasse]

I would not use a merer for free ammonia because you have the low concentrations of NH3 and temp + pH readings. You risk to multiply the fault three times in worst case. IMO - it is best to use a total ammonia set here - it is only one source of faults. We are interested of the total ammonia

Mastertronic - here

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Coxey81]

Taken 51 hours after rinse w/o water change or tank clean and redose of .75ml (3ppm)

NH4+NH3 = .4 ppm

It's going to finish during the night sometime. So I'm gonna call it 58 hours.

 

[DrZoidburg]

Yes - I'm going to have to buy a lower range Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate kit - any recommendations?

I didn't even know hanna had a ulr ammonia checker. Maybe using calculator and parameters can get a close total amount. I don't think these would suffer the same fate as seneye because it uses colorimetrics. Only some things that can cause big errors.

 

[Lasse]

I didn't even know hanna had a ulr ammonia checker. Maybe using calculator and parameters can get a close total amount. I don't think these would suffer the same fate as seneye because it uses colorimetrics. Only some things that can cause big errors.

I think Hanna low Ammonia checker not is suitable for salt water

Sincerely Lasse

 

[MnFish1]

I think Hanna low Ammonia checker not is suitable for salt water

Sincerely Lasse

Hi - you're right - I meant: https://www.hannainst.com/hi764-nit...MIwLrj872d9AIVumxvBB16UAEcEAQYASABEgKCHPD_BwE

 

[DrZoidburg]

I think Hanna low Ammonia checker not is suitable for salt water

Sincerely Lasse

Yes I see now. Thank you never knew this one existed. I see now why they use nessler method. Even a modified reagent wouldn't be consistent in everyones tanks.