I have a full grown emperor angel I added a couple Weeks ago and think it brought ich into my tank. Now most of my fish are "covered" I put the temperature to 80, feeding with garlic, and just installed my uv starilizer. Is there anything at all I can do to get the ich off my fish I really don't want to loose him or any of my other fish.. any opinions please.. this is day 2....
Emperor Angel with velvet
- Thread starter iamurri33
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joshkirkland83
Valuable Member
Get them in QT and treat with copper. The doc might help a little better than me. @Humblefish to the rescue!!!
joshkirkland83
Valuable Member
Or @melypr1985
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
melypr1985
totally addicted
Josh is correct. They need to be put into QT and treated with copper or chloroquine phosphate.
A QT consists of a tank large enough to house the fish you own, an HOB filter large enough to handle the bioload (take out the carbon cartrige and replace with a simple sponge, a heater and an ammonia badge. I'll link a great explanation of how to put together a QT. I'll also post how to treat ich in a QT. Just a sec
A QT consists of a tank large enough to house the fish you own, an HOB filter large enough to handle the bioload (take out the carbon cartrige and replace with a simple sponge, a heater and an ammonia badge. I'll link a great explanation of how to put together a QT. I'll also post how to treat ich in a QT. Just a sec
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
It's a start. Get an ammonia badge by seachem and make sure you change water daily until it cycles (I did 80% daily for my 55 gal qt full of fish)
melypr1985
totally addicted
How to Quarantine:
http://reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/
how to treat ich from Humblefish
Saltwater ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) is best described as salt or sugar-like "sprinkles" on the body or fins. Sometimes however, the parasite can harbor inside the gills - out of sight. Behavioral symptoms such as flashing, scratching, twitching and heavy breathing are other indicators of ich.
Most hobbyists will encounter ich at some point in one of two settings:
Treatment options: Copper, Chloroquine phosphate, tank transfer method, or hyposalinity. All of which are discussed in detail here:https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/fis...is/189658-treatment-options-my-two-cents.html
http://reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/
how to treat ich from Humblefish
Saltwater ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) is best described as salt or sugar-like "sprinkles" on the body or fins. Sometimes however, the parasite can harbor inside the gills - out of sight. Behavioral symptoms such as flashing, scratching, twitching and heavy breathing are other indicators of ich.
Most hobbyists will encounter ich at some point in one of two settings:
- A newly acquired fish in quarantine (QT) - proceed to "Treatment options" below.
- Fish in the display tank (DT) - There is no easy way of dealing with this. Even in fish only systems, it can be problematic trying to treat in the DT. Copper (and other medications) can be absorbed by rock/substrate, and doing hyposalinity risks possibly wiping out your bio-filter. You have to catch ALL of your fish, and quarantine/treat using one of the treatment options mentioned below. The DT itself must be left fallow (fishless) for at least 72 days to starve out any remaining parasites. Continue to periodically feed your corals/inverts; a pinch of flake food every 2-3 days will help maintain bacteria levels in the DT. Remember there is no "reef safe" ich treatment that will actually eradicate all of the parasites! Tea tree oil from India or garlic extract or any other herbal/natural "medication" is designed to only help fish manage their symptoms.
Treatment options: Copper, Chloroquine phosphate, tank transfer method, or hyposalinity. All of which are discussed in detail here:https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/fis...is/189658-treatment-options-my-two-cents.html
Raising the temp is a fresh water trick. Your better off letting temp. By raising it your speeding up the life cycle. Garlic is an absolute myth, and could even cause liver damage.
The problem is whether or not it is ich or velvet. Velvet is very fast and would cover all your fish fast. Also looks little smaller and much more of it to the point of looking like your fish has a whitish sheen. If it is velvet, you may lose your tank within a couple few days.
If it is ich, the only way your going to cure it is to remove all your fish, run your tank fallow for 12 weeks and in the mean time treat your fish.
To put it in the words of my 3 yr old... That's the way it goes.
The problem is whether or not it is ich or velvet. Velvet is very fast and would cover all your fish fast. Also looks little smaller and much more of it to the point of looking like your fish has a whitish sheen. If it is velvet, you may lose your tank within a couple few days.
If it is ich, the only way your going to cure it is to remove all your fish, run your tank fallow for 12 weeks and in the mean time treat your fish.
To put it in the words of my 3 yr old... That's the way it goes.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Very true. By raising the temp your actually increasing the amount of parasites in the water much quicker than normal ( by speeding up their lifecycle) . The UV isn't going to do anything to cure your fish at this point. Whether it's ich or velvet they are both treated the same. Copper in a QT. You gotta get them all out and into the meds quickly. You can do a freshwater dip to knock out some of the parasites from their gills. It will give them some respite and maybe give you a little more time for you to get your stuff together.
Coralsdaily
Well-Known Member
Good luck buddy. I have had painful experience of ice outbreak myself. So far, copper treatment is the only success I have had and yes definitely need quarantine. Use cupermine (by seachem), and make sure you have a copper test kit.
When I hear most of the fish are "covered", I automatically think velvet. 
No, ich (or any disease) has to be introduced by an infected specimen. If you QT each & every fish, the odds of introducing one with ich are low. However, you will need to go fallow (fishless) for 76 days to starve the remaining parasites out of your DT.
No, ich (or any disease) has to be introduced by an infected specimen. If you QT each & every fish, the odds of introducing one with ich are low. However, you will need to go fallow (fishless) for 76 days to starve the remaining parasites out of your DT.
melypr1985
totally addicted
That looks like velvet. Humble has a new protocol for velvet too! Let me get that link for you
http://reef2reef.com/threads/defeating-marine-velvet-disease.217570/
http://reef2reef.com/threads/defeating-marine-velvet-disease.217570/
melypr1985
totally addicted
also, at least give him a freshwater dip to give you a little more time to get your QT up and running. And read that link i just posted!
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
joshkirkland83
Valuable Member
What you take away from this: ALWAYS QT anything before it hits your display. Dont feel bad though, i had to lose a fish of 10 years before it finally sunk into my hard head.
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