Enrofloxacin for Gigantea bacterial infection - looking for advice and I'll document recovery/experience here

[D-Nak]

Small rock should be fine as long as you do the water changes as scheduled. Most broad spectrum antibiotics do not affect nitrifying bacteria much, but that is while other can of worms lol.

Agreed. If you do 100% daily water changes as the protocol requires, it should be fine.

 

[Smite]

Small rock should be fine as long as you do the water changes as scheduled. Most broad spectrum antibiotics do not affect nitrifying bacteria much, but that is while other can of worms lol.

That's good!

 

[Smite]

I feel like I’m seeing small improvements with this fella. I fed rods reef today. I nabbed a small chunk floating by with tweezers amd went to test touch the gig with it. I was looking for improvement in stickiness and there was. It grabbed it and ate it pretty quickly.
I want to get opinions on this.

- it ate a chunk slightly larger than its mouth.
- it’s stickier now and ate
- hasn’t deflated since night 1

if it is able to digest this food without regurgitation or deflating should I hold off on treatment? Or is it clear to everyone by that pictures and behavior so far that it needs treatment?
Hopefully I didn’t tax it too hard, I was more looking for a response but then didn’t want to pull the meal away

 

[Smite]

So all my equipment is in and at the ready. I have my scale and my QT is dry but ready to go and 50g of fresh salt mixed. So far the gig hasn't deflated and actually seems to be extending more since todays feeding. So for now I'm just going to have everything ready and if it deflates even once it's going in for treatment. If it makes it a few days and continues to improve I'll be leaving it. If it walks or transfers/starts reaching towards the light I'll move it into more light and observe. My cb CQuest onyx clowns are acclimating. If it does well for a few days I'll be adding them into the box and see how everything interacts.

Thanks for everyones input this far, its really appreciated. I'll update once something happens.

 

[Smite]

I got my onyx clownfish pair last night and decided to throw them straight into the acclimation box. It was pretty incredible to see the first contact between these captive bred clowns and an anemone. I wanted to video it but it took all of 5 seconds of being in the box.

I felt there was immediate improvement in the anemone after a few seconds of the clowns nibbling and rolling in it. It fluffed right up and had greater tentacle extension. I got to thinking this morning that maybe true flow and lighting (not being filter through the box) may be the best thing for it. I pulled a rock from my bin and glued the rock it was attached to to it. This rock has a huge hole I'm thinking it'll love if it decides to walk further onto the main rock. To me it looks like it's making a full rebound without treatment. Here is a video, if you disagree let me know. If I witness deflating I'll still be pulling it for treatment but I've got a pretty good feeling that won't be the case based of the improvement so far.

 

[Taylor t]

Looks good to me, but honestly my gut thinks you just took one step forward and two steps back. Flow and tank looks great. The mismatch in size between anemone and clowns might not help.

 

[Smite]

Looks good to me, but honestly my gut thinks you just took one step forward and two steps back. Flow and tank looks great. The mismatch in size between anemone and clowns might not help.

Your right it is out of proportion. Maybe I should have gone with a smaller pair, they looked small at the breeders house. If it seems like it’s getting pummeled I have some clear egg crate on hand and I’ll try to build a cage to keep them off it.

 

[DeniseAndy]

It looks pretty good, but I am no expert on Gigantea nems. Keep a close eye on it for any need to treat.
The size is a bit of a mismatch, but I have found with the larger nems, the size is not as much an issue. It seems to be for BTAs a larger issue. Maybe I have just been lucky. Others will chime in I am sure about that.

 

[Smite]

It looks pretty good, but I am no expert on Gigantea nems. Keep a close eye on it for any need to treat.
The size is a bit of a mismatch, but I have found with the larger nems, the size is not as much an issue. It seems to be for BTAs a larger issue. Maybe I have just been lucky. Others will chime in I am sure about that.

That’s good to hear. I have heard of bta anemones getting beat up until they close. I’m assuming that’s the sign I should be looking out for with this as well. So far it doesn’t seem to mind at all. It’s a little smaller than in the acclimation box but I think that’s due to increased light and flow. It has the classic kinda of folds in it now. The moth appears small and closed too.

 

[D-Nak]

Something to look out for is the clownfish divebombing the gig’s mouth. This only happens when gigs are sick.

 

[Smite]

Something to look out for is the clownfish divebombing the gig’s mouth. This only happens when gigs are sick.

By this do me mean face to face pecking at it or would it be more like a flashing motion? So far the behavior looks pretty normal to me.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

By this do me mean face to face pecking at it or would it be more like a flashing motion? So far the behavior looks pretty normal to me.

Think I clown jumping of diving board and then hitting the nems mouth and wiggling hard. Then doing it again. Like forceful diving in.

 

[Taylor t]

By this do me mean face to face pecking at it or would it be more like a flashing motion? So far the behavior looks pretty normal to me.

Fair warning. You’re playing with fire. If I was you, pull the clowns. They won’t help, but hinder. Tank looks like it’s a great environment for the gig, great location and flow-minus clowns until size and health increase. My guess, Leave the clowns and loose the gig. Pull the clowns, gig most likely pulls through no meds. My thoughts. I think leaving clowns is a big mistake. Too drastic size difference. Best of luck. No one knows it all, but my experience I wouldn’t try that.

 

[Smite]

Well that’s a bummer to hear but if I have to pull them maybe I can manipulate a section of my sump to house them until the upgrade.

 

[Smite]

Well my tomini musta heard you. Full jerk engaged and isn’t letting the clowns anywhere near that rock. If they go in the nem he chases them right out.
mot moved and is facing the light a bit more.

What’s the opinion on that mouth? Look tight enough?

 

[DeniseAndy]

Crazy tang. I think it is okay for now. At least it is not gaping open. Very bright nem.

 

[Smite]

Crazy tang. I think it is okay for now. At least it is not gaping open. Very bright nem.

Sounds good.

Yeah I haven’t seen many yellow gigantea in person so I’m not sure if it’s so neon because it’s recovering or partially bleached? Either way you can’t miss it, puts all my sticks to shame in regards to color. I’m looking forward to see how it colors in the system.

 

[Taylor t]

Yes mouth looks good. It is a green that is bleached. I have 2 green ones. Green/yellow/neon highlighter all the same. With par 1000ish + or - a few hundred it will be darker green. Lower par it gets darker green. If you get par up above 2000 - 2300 it stays yellow. I got one from a guy 10 years ago that kept one in a biocube29 with stock lighting for over a year like that which was a dark forest green. Over the years both mine have been dark green, and bright yellow depending primarily on light intensity. Poor water quality will also bleach them to a yellow, like mine are now lol. Don’t ramp up light too fast at this point. You want the disk and lower tents to get the good brown color to it before making changes. Food for thought, they’re mostly found at shallows with pounding waves, they like white light best. Give it a couple weeks to chemistry adjust before making any changes. Intentionally feeding any food adds risk while adjusting. Looks good! Keep those clowns away! Once it gets the brown base and longer tents you’re on your way to a very durable anemone, add food, clowns, and enjoy! They never (are supposed to) deflate, so keep a close eye.

 

[Smite]

Yes mouth looks good. It is a green that is bleached. I have 2 green ones. Green/yellow/neon highlighter all the same. With par 1000ish + or - a few hundred it will be darker green. Lower par it gets darker green. If you get par up above 2000 - 2300 it stays yellow. I got one from a guy 10 years ago that kept one in a biocube29 with stock lighting for over a year like that which was a dark forest green. Over the years both mine have been dark green, and bright yellow depending primarily on light intensity. Poor water quality will also bleach them to a yellow, like mine are now lol. Don’t ramp up light too fast at this point. You want the disk and lower tents to get the good brown color to it before making changes. Food for thought, they’re mostly found at shallows with pounding waves, they like white light best. Give it a couple weeks to chemistry adjust before making any changes. Intentionally feeding any food adds risk while adjusting. Looks good! Keep those clowns away! Once it gets the brown base and longer tents you’re on your way to a very durable anemone, add food, clowns, and enjoy! They never (are supposed to) deflate, so keep a close eye.

Awesome info and thank you! I’m no where near those par numbers so I’ll be looking at a green anemone. I bought blue G5’s which are just that. I’ve got all the sliders up and still very blue. I a few months it’ll be back under 400w of glorious MH, just gotta get it there.

that makes sense why the yellows were $45 and the greens were $80 then

I’m home most the time and haven’t witness a deflate since that initial picture so hopefully it stays that way.

Thanks for the input everyone. I’ll update once it changes for better or worse.

Matt

 

[Taylor t]

400 watt MH would work great IME. BUT I’ve gotten great results from high output LED also. I use all LED now last 8 years maybe? Long time I don’t remember.

So here’s a couple pics I snapped of mine today. This first one looks the most yellow, it’s getting 500-1200 par, depending on area of the disk. Most of it gets 600-800 par with a couple hot spots and lower spots.