Exo Terra saltwater paludarium

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Metalreefer

Metalreefer

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The spray has arrived. I ordered the Vallejo matte acrylic resin varnish spray. Suppose to be waterproof and non toxic after it cures. so Far i am satisfied with the result. I will do a wc in my tank at the weekend and i will chuck the control piece into a jar of tank water to see how it will affect the varnish and the resin. In the video you can see the whole piece glazed with 2 part epoxy resin. And the left half has been sprayed with the varnish as well.
 

watki127

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Any update on this?

Curious how you went about cutting the glass as I'm about to make a divider. I had the same problems getting acrylic/plastic to bond well to glass.

I did a similar project on a eco terra but did not do a reef tank just a beta/nano tank.

I'll try to post some pics and a video of how I did it soon.
 

GAIA

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Hello Metalreefer,

From Barcelona (Spain) i just discovered your thread, and i can only tell you; GO AHEAD !!!!!!

Sorry for the English version (Google translate).

I'm going to try to help you with your great project (this one), or the one you have planned for the future.

I am a happy retiree, with a lot of time for my hobbies, and this allows me to read Forums as interesting as R2R.

Many years ago i finished my studies in Biology, i was lucky enough to work for a season at the Barcelona ZOO, in the collection of Poisonous Snakes (ATROX) in the Terrarium of the zoo.

Then all my life I have kept Vivariums, Marine and Fresh Aquariums, Terrariums, etc ...... as a hobbyist.

I currently have a project, for next summer, if the Covid allows it, very similar to yours; a biotope of the coastal zone of the Mediterranean Sea, with a submerged zone (Posidonia meadow), a tidal zone and a terrestrial aerial zone, all with native species of the Catalan coast. Aquatic area volume 600 lts.

I am enclosing a photo with a lousy handmade scheme that could suit your idea. It's a profile view of a terrarium like yours.

It is based on a standard partition, with a glass partition, between the two aquatic areas, the marine and the freshwater that you want to set up.

You can design the glass partition as you want to suit your project; straight, with different angles, at the height that suits you, in the depth you need, etc .....

At the bottom of the terrarium, and as a support for the waterfall, a false bottom (F.B.) is installed with an angle of inclination (alpha) that will allow the water from the cascade to flow like a curtain and not splash the marine area. The flow of this waterfall must be such as to allow this situation. Install a regulating valve at the outlet of the inner filter (I.F.) of the fresh zone. From this you launch a tube to the top of the waterfall, which will have a horizontal perforated tube to create several lines of water fall, and better distribute the curtain of water from the waterfall. All this is the key to the proper functioning of the waterfall.

At the top of the waterfall, or wherever you want, you can install the tank for the mist creation pump (MP), inside the terrarium or outside (in / out), making a hole in the glass of the terrarium if it is outside. In this case, the tank must have an access cover for filling water, and maintenance ......

The outline photo of the waterfall (Waterfall profile) and the rest of the background decoration (Rocs profile) are included in the diagram photo.

The fresh water zone (Fresh) will have a standard heater with thermostat.

It is important that you have access (Hand access) to this area for proper maintenance. You can install an overflow hole (W. Exces) of the duct water level, to avoid contact between the fresh and marine zones. It is not essential.

In the marine area (Salted) I propose the two standard perforations for overflow (To filter) and return (Filter return) of water to the filtration system.

This can be a sump, a bottle filter, etc ..... If it is a sump you can include all the equipment you think is necessary.

If you don't want to pierce the glass you can install an internal filter (not included in the schema) and a heater (T.H.S.).

With the rocks for the aquascape of the marine area you can hide the installed equipment, always with easy access for maintenance and cleaning.

From my experience in caring for poisonous snakes, reef aquariums, vivariums for Dendrobates, etc ..... you must foresee 99.99% of possible situations and incidents in the operation of the system.

Putting your hand once installed and running has its problems and risks ........

Take time to simulate all the situations that occur to you !!!!.

Find all the information you can about the compatibility of the plants you want to introduce in the aerial zone, with respect to the evaporation that will occur in the marine zone and that will drag a "salty" environment.

In your big country you have countless ecosystems that are related to your project.

For any questions, queries or information, let me know.

I am very interested in your project.

Greetings from Barcelona, Catalunya, Spain, Europe, World .......

P.D.: I don't know how to add the photo of the scheme !. help !
 
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Metalreefer

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Its been a while now isn't it so time for a little update
So i glazed the background with water based epoxy. then sprayed the background on the middle and the bottom with acrylic matt varnish. It eliminated most of the very fake disgusting shine but some still left so maybe i will put on one more layer. The background attached to the glass with magnets. And i installed a mini ATO to the freshwater sump because the water volume just so small it was a must. The waterfall and the fogger works perfectly. I put the fogger on 3h interval with 5mins on. I love it so much when it turns on. looks so relaxing. And its not even planted yet ;Shamefullyembarrased So I ran the waterfall and fogger to see if there is any leaks or some drips I don't want. It PASSED finally. Now its running with freshly mixed saltwater to see if something is leaching (shouldn't be) from the background or the moisture from the fog or the tiny splashing will alter the water parameters. If yes then i need to look for a solution. If no then I just need to add the final touches then its ready to go. Unfortunately I cannot plant it or put the livestock in it because I have a big move soon so I can do it after. Hopefully the end of the year?
.
20210123_103539.jpg
20210123_103533.jpg
20210123_103258.jpg
 
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Metalreefer

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Hello Metalreefer,

From Barcelona (Spain) i just discovered your thread, and i can only tell you; GO AHEAD !!!!!!

Sorry for the English version (Google translate).

I'm going to try to help you with your great project (this one), or the one you have planned for the future.

I am a happy retiree, with a lot of time for my hobbies, and this allows me to read Forums as interesting as R2R.

Many years ago i finished my studies in Biology, i was lucky enough to work for a season at the Barcelona ZOO, in the collection of Poisonous Snakes (ATROX) in the Terrarium of the zoo.

Then all my life I have kept Vivariums, Marine and Fresh Aquariums, Terrariums, etc ...... as a hobbyist.

I currently have a project, for next summer, if the Covid allows it, very similar to yours; a biotope of the coastal zone of the Mediterranean Sea, with a submerged zone (Posidonia meadow), a tidal zone and a terrestrial aerial zone, all with native species of the Catalan coast. Aquatic area volume 600 lts.

I am enclosing a photo with a lousy handmade scheme that could suit your idea. It's a profile view of a terrarium like yours.

It is based on a standard partition, with a glass partition, between the two aquatic areas, the marine and the freshwater that you want to set up.

You can design the glass partition as you want to suit your project; straight, with different angles, at the height that suits you, in the depth you need, etc .....

At the bottom of the terrarium, and as a support for the waterfall, a false bottom (F.B.) is installed with an angle of inclination (alpha) that will allow the water from the cascade to flow like a curtain and not splash the marine area. The flow of this waterfall must be such as to allow this situation. Install a regulating valve at the outlet of the inner filter (I.F.) of the fresh zone. From this you launch a tube to the top of the waterfall, which will have a horizontal perforated tube to create several lines of water fall, and better distribute the curtain of water from the waterfall. All this is the key to the proper functioning of the waterfall.

At the top of the waterfall, or wherever you want, you can install the tank for the mist creation pump (MP), inside the terrarium or outside (in / out), making a hole in the glass of the terrarium if it is outside. In this case, the tank must have an access cover for filling water, and maintenance ......

The outline photo of the waterfall (Waterfall profile) and the rest of the background decoration (Rocs profile) are included in the diagram photo.

The fresh water zone (Fresh) will have a standard heater with thermostat.

It is important that you have access (Hand access) to this area for proper maintenance. You can install an overflow hole (W. Exces) of the duct water level, to avoid contact between the fresh and marine zones. It is not essential.

In the marine area (Salted) I propose the two standard perforations for overflow (To filter) and return (Filter return) of water to the filtration system.

This can be a sump, a bottle filter, etc ..... If it is a sump you can include all the equipment you think is necessary.

If you don't want to pierce the glass you can install an internal filter (not included in the schema) and a heater (T.H.S.).

With the rocks for the aquascape of the marine area you can hide the installed equipment, always with easy access for maintenance and cleaning.

From my experience in caring for poisonous snakes, reef aquariums, vivariums for Dendrobates, etc ..... you must foresee 99.99% of possible situations and incidents in the operation of the system.

Putting your hand once installed and running has its problems and risks ........

Take time to simulate all the situations that occur to you !!!!.

Find all the information you can about the compatibility of the plants you want to introduce in the aerial zone, with respect to the evaporation that will occur in the marine zone and that will drag a "salty" environment.

In your big country you have countless ecosystems that are related to your project.

For any questions, queries or information, let me know.

I am very interested in your project.

Greetings from Barcelona, Catalunya, Spain, Europe, World .......

P.D.: I don't know how to add the photo of the scheme !. help !

Great plans! You can learn from my mistakes so you will have a quicker and easier job than I had! :D And less waste of money hopefully. You will need a chiller too because the mediterraen water pretty cold. You can put some snakelock anemone in (Anemonia viridis) Like growing your snack style :D For big project yes its better to have a sump for both systems but there is always a way :D. For my 15L water volume I was able to get away with a fake background what got space behind it to cover up the equipment. yeah you need to plan a LOT and also fix problems what is getting in the way while you progress. I could have done better job but as a first project I call it a good enough.

P.S: Ctrl+P to insert picture :)
 

GAIA

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ctrl + p has worked!
I hope all your work goes ahead.
I follow you.
Currently it is very difficult to find Anemonia viridis; became fashionable as a delicatessen dish in bars and restaurants, and disappeared from the natural environment ......
I attach another photo of my Mediterranean Nano to see if you can guess which species appear. It's a game !. Je, je......
FOTOS MOVIL 23-1-21BIS 075 BIS.jpg
FOTOS MOVIL 11-1-21 527.jpg
 
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Metalreefer

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WOW. Disappeared? Time to visit Croatia then! They don't eat it and its like a pest in the shore. When I went there a few years ago for holiday they were everywhere in the shallow water. Literally waist deep. Also beadlet anemone is very common. The only problem with Coldwater setup is the chiller. Its big and expensive.
 

GAIA

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On the Catalan coast they were also like a plague, but overexploitation has practically extinguished them. Last summer I did not find any at various inspection points. In my hand I do not use a cooler, which as you say are expensive; I use a fan, both in summer and in winter, to achieve the target temperature, which is variable throughout the year.
Actinia equina continues to be very abundant.
 
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Metalreefer

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I did some tests PH, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphate, alk, calcium and ammonia. Everything was in place except Ammonia. :rolleyes: It was 1ppm. with API test kit (yeah I know I know the worst garbage test kit I could possibly use) but I did it with Salifert too and that showed similar results. The water already 2 weeks inside. I'm not sure But maybe if I will cycle the tank the ammonia eventually will leach out completely and disappear after a while because of the bacterium levels in the water adapt to it. any thoughts?
 

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