Featured Threads Archive
All currently and previously featured threads.
Not sure I can explain this well enough, but I'm wondering how many people buy fish/coral that are known to be difficult to keep. I just finalized an order for a few fish to finally restock my tank after the losses from a hurricane last year. I really didn't want anything that would be too difficult to keep. I have my tank running quite well and I'd rather try to enjoy it now than have to "fight" to keep something alive.
Is that bad thing? Am I taking the easy way out? Curious how others approach their stocking. I realize this poll may be geared to folks that have been at it a while and not just getting in to the hobby. But I'm wondering how folks approach new additions.
Ok so a little bit of click bait there but all to often "it" becomes a reality for many reefers who travel. IT DOES HAPPEN and what is "it?" The "it" is something bad happening to your reef!
Honestly it seems that if something bad is going to happen it's going to happen while you are out of town and no matter what you do there is no perfect way to mitigate the potential disaster. My wife even makes comments about "how this only happens when your out of town." :/
BUT that doesn't mean that we don't do everything we can to make sure we have a plan or process in place just in case something goes wrong. The ATO quiets working, for some reason the lights are not coming on, the tank is cloudy, there is a leak, the return pump goes down, etc..
So this should be a great discussion and I would like to propose a few questions to you!
1. How do you know when something is going wrong? What do you have in place that would tell you something is not right?
2. Is there someone who you trust to handle the situation? A friend in the hobby, neighbor or family member?
3. Do you have a plan in place or a way to be able to walk someone through the issues that are taking place?
4. Whats the worse thing you have ever had happen while you were away?
image via @EMTDIVER16
We started the week discussing stability and how we define it. We then went through the big three with week - Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium. We've discussed others in the past. Let's end this week with what people feel is the most important parameter to maintain stability in a mature reef.
Now, I realize stability is of vital importance and keeping all parameters stable is the goal. But if you had to pick one to call the "most" important, what would it be. Feel free to discuss your reasoning's for your choice.
I don’t know about you all but I’m really excited about taking my reef to the next level in 2018!
Few things I have planned to do in the next few weeks.
Reaquascaping with Fiji Rock
Removing a lot of sand and adding a more coarse grain
Begin the Triton Method
Add to my fish stock
What are some things you have planned?
Procrastinating Reefers are the worst and I am one of them! A little click bait title to get you in here and posting! So while you are here why not engage with a comment and make sure you don't procrastinate!
I'll start off by saying that I am the worst when it comes to certain "reefing tasks." For me I'm the worst at managing my equipment wires, turning snails over and general cleanup tasks! Right now though the main thing is the wiring to and from my controller!! AHHH!!!!
What about you? What do you procrastinate in doing when it comes to your saltwater reef aquarium?
I really need to get my wires looking nice like @mknightryder has here!
These approaches are totally different, but I've seen all work incredibly well, I'm not saying anything against any of them. I think its an interesting question and I'd like to see what you guys think about it. Personally, I take the middle approach.
how much return flow are you aiming for?
With variable pumps, it seems like I am always aiming for higher flow. But I’m not sure I need 3000gph that my Vectra L1 can crank out. (I’m not counting losses in head pressure or elbows and such). Just trying to make a point.
I’ve heard everything from 2x tank size per hour to 10x tank size per hour to much higher. What say you? What’s your perfect return rate are you aiming for? How many times you trying to turn your tank over per hour?
I am trying to decide on a good battery back up unit for my tank and I am thinking about getting a ecotech battery backup, but I would have to buy an MP10 as well, which would make it quite expensive(~$400). Are there any better cheaper options or would it be best to just bite the bullet and buy the ecotech battery and pump?
Hello it's me again!
Back at you with another question to get your mind working and data flowing! This is something that is near and dear to my heart and that is commerce within our industry. Plain and simple, we want it to be better. We want to hold bad people accountable and to reward those that are good. We want people to be able to shop with confidence and have a variety of options when buying, selling and trading.
So that being said my question to you is this.
Is buying, selling and trading within our hobby where it needs to be or can we do better as a whole?
When your sps corals are happy they have extended polyps right? Or is that not always the case? I would love to hear from you on this subject and if you agree or not.
So do extended sps polyps mean your coral is healthy and thriving?
Name: Anton Post
R2R Username: @p0st
Build Thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/p0st-h0me-reef-dutch.209931/
Hi! My name is Anton Post and I’m a 29 year old guy from the Netherlands that got into reef tanks three years ago. I’m currently keeping a Red Sea Reefer 525 that has been running since January 2016. I’m very honored to be featured in this month’s Reef of the Month article on R2R! I hope you enjoy the article and pictures. If you have any additional questions please feel free to ask in the tank thread!
- Display tank: Red Sea Reefer 525
- Glass or Acrylic: Glass
- Stand: Provided by Red Sea
- Sump: Provided by Red Sea
- Protein skimmer: Vertex Alpha 200
- Carbon/phosphate filtration: Vertex canister filter with Rowaphos and Red Sea Carbon (both in separate bags)
- Return pump: Jebao DCT8000
- Water circulation: Maxspect Gyre XF250 w/ advanced controller
- Lighting (display): Giesemann Aurora 150cm
- Calcium/alkalinity/magnesium dosing: Yes, Balling Classic method
- Auto top-off: Provided by Red Sea
- Heating/cooling: Teco TK500 for both cooling and heating
- System control: Nothing specific, my Jebao DP-4 is doing the dosing, that’s it
- Any other details: UV-c 36W for water filtration, Dosing vodka/vinegar for no3/p04 reduction
Water Circulation and Flow Summary and Objectives:
I’m using the Maxspect Gyre to create a good circular flow in my tank. Before the XF250 I had an XF150 with the regular controller, and the XF250 with the advanced controller is definitely an upgrade. I have it running in a 10-60% random pattern which really creates a nice flow through the entire tank. My reefscape is fairly light which enables good water circulation, even in the bottom areas. I did also apply a Loc-Line double outlet on the standard Red Sea outlet to aim the water coming into the tank to where I want.
- Temp: 25-26 degrees Celsius
- pH: 8.0
- Specific gravity: 1.026-1.027
- NO3: 10-20
- Ca: 450
- Alk: 8.0
- Mg: 1600
- PO4: 0.20
Lighting Summary and Objectives:
I have chosen a hybrid light since this gives me the most flexibility in setting the light intensity and coloration. The fixture has 4x75w LED units and 4x80w T5 bulbs. For the T5’s I’m using ATI’s Coral Plus bulbs in all four slots. For the LED pads I’m only using the Royal Blue and Marine Blue channels. This combination of T5 and LED gives me a color scheme that I really enjoy. Also, corals thrive under these lights.
Photoperiod: 8:00 am until 23:30 PM. (See scheme for reference)
Filtration and Water Quality Summary and Objectives:
Since my reef is LPS, Zoanthus and Ricordea heavy, I try to keep at least some nitrates and phosphates in my tank for better growth. Additionally, I have some fish that eat quite slow so I tend to overfeed to give every tank inhabitant time to fill its belly properly. Luckily the nuisance algae are kept to a minimum, the only minor inconvenience is that I have to clean my glass every other day to get rid of the green layer that slowly builds up.
Calcium/Alkalinity/Magnesium Summary and Objectives:
Since I’m using the Balling Classic method, I always dose my Ca, Alk, and Mg in the same amounts, this keeps those three values very stable over time. I try to stick to recommended values for Ca and Alk (450/8), but I tend to keep the Mg a little higher (1600) since I’ve seen good results doing that (less nuisance algae, good coloration and polyp extension).
1. Copperband Butterfly (since November 2014)
2. 2x Mandarin Fish (Synchiropus splendidus)
3. 2x Pterapogon kauderni
4. 4x Evansi Anthias
5. 2x Macroparynghodon Meleagris (male + female)
6. 1x corythoichthys intestinalis
7. 1x ostracion cubicus
8. 1x salarias fasciatus
9. 1x Bristletooth Tomini Tang
10. 1x equetus punctatus (juvenile)
1. 2x Sea Urchin
2. 2x Sand Sifting Seastar
3. Various snales, including an Abalone Snail
Tank Inhabitants— Corals:
I could list them, but I’ll leave the pictures to speak for themselves. My tank mostly has soft corals varying from LPS to zoa’s, softies and ricordea. I do have some SPS pieces but they are scarce and positioned on top of the reef to give them as much light and flow as possible. Also, since my nitrates and phosphates are relatively high, SPS won’t be as colorful as they could be in an ULN system.
Fun Friday Poll. Have you ever woken from a bad dream or nightmare and raced to the tank? What did you discover? Was it in fact just a bad dream or did you actually find a problem and it turns out it wasn't a dream at all. Share your stories, both good and bad!
A couple of months ago we did a poll on what folks do to control Coralline Algae in their systems. Another question often asked is how do I get Coralline Algae to grow? Let's take a look today at what you consider the most important factor in getting CA to grow. Feel free to discuss below.
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