Featured Threads Archive
All currently and previously featured threads.
It's a question often asked on the forum - How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria? There are many options offered on how to battle the algae, so I'm curious to see what you've done in the past to get rid of an outbreak. The ultimate goal is to determine the root cause of the problem, but while we're doing that, what have you found to work for removal?
I don’t know about you all but I’m really excited about taking my reef to the next level in 2018!
Few things I have planned to do in the next few weeks.
Reaquascaping with Fiji Rock
Removing a lot of sand and adding a more coarse grain
Begin the Triton Method
Add to my fish stock
What are some things you have planned?
Yesterday’s featured poll discussed whether it’s possible for a tank to be considered ich free. The results, as of this writing, were 52% said yes. The consensus is that if a proper QT protocol is adhered to, it’s possible to maintain an ich free tank. I’m not suggesting this is actually the case or not, simply sharing my interpretation of the results.
I thought it would be interesting to see what the preferred method of QT is for those that do so. No real way to capture all the possibilities/methods for a poll, so I’ve tried to include the most popular methods I’m aware of. There are certainly other methods, which is why one of the choices is “other”. There is even an option for those that don't QT at all.
End of the Year BLOWOUT Livesale
Friday December 29th 2017
Huge discounts on everything and tons of $1 frags
Start: 6pm EST
We will post up 5 photos at a time. Each photo will have a name, be numbered and priced. First person to post the Item number on the thread gets the coral. We will hit "LIKE" on the post to notify the customer. Please only post one Item number per post. During and at the end of the sale, we will message each customer for payment options.
Preferred payment method is PayPal and Square.
We will be posting lots of $1 frags throughout the sale. You must buy at least 1 normal priced coral for each $1 coral you purchase.
Every shipped box will also have a freebie frag included on top of all purchases.
Shipping is a flat rate of $40 Fedex Priority Overnight. No combined shipping with orders outside of this sale. No piggy back shipping. We only ship to the continental US. Local pickup available. Shipping can be pre-purchased ahead of time. Please send us a PM
Where do you fall on the spectrum of more testing, automation, and “helicopter parenting” your tank? Reef and fish.
Personally, I don’t really test much, I’m pretty laid back and let “nature take its course.” I do my water changes, and that’s about it. I nitrate test and water change about once a month. Sometimes I dose two part, but as unscientific as my dosing is I figure I’m better off not doing anything. I overskim immensely (but also overstock my fish immensely). I have ample light, and check salinity once per month. Nothing is automated, not even ATO (but that may change soon).
Of course, I don’t keep difficult coral. Hammer, frogspawn, torch, zoanthid, other polyps, leathers like devils hand, cabbage coral, and toadstool, mushrooms, star polyps, yellow polyps, xenia, anthelia, candy cane, sometimes a monti cap or two, and at one time a bubble coral is really about it. I have kept clams for a good amount of time this way, and bubble tip anemones. So, I realize I’m not dabbling in “needy coral”, either.
As far as fish, I quarantine and prophylacticly treat everything properly.
I’d love to see tank pics by those that automate and test frequently, and those more like me!
So what’s better?
We started the week discussing stability and how we define it. We then went through the big three with week - Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium. We've discussed others in the past. Let's end this week with what people feel is the most important parameter to maintain stability in a mature reef.
Now, I realize stability is of vital importance and keeping all parameters stable is the goal. But if you had to pick one to call the "most" important, what would it be. Feel free to discuss your reasoning's for your choice.
Yesterday we discussed stability. Many commented (and I agree) alkalinity is probably the most important of the parameters to maintain stability. (Yes salinity and temperature rank up there also).
We did a poll a while ago that asked what your average dKH measures in your systems. The vast majority of responses was in the range of 8.0-8.5 dKH. I thought it might be interesting to look at what your daily demand is in terms of dKH. Yes, this will vary from system to system and be determined by many factors. This poll is just to get a feel for the daily demands that we have to supplement for to maintain stability.
I'd like to do a series of polls regarding the major parameters (namely Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium) over the next few days. Many discussions are had regarding the "perfect" measuring point of each, but one consistent thought is that we should all be shooting for stability.
So let's start off today with how we define stability. Meaning, what period of time do you consider to be most important when it comes to stability. Is it hour to hour, day to day, a few days or a week? So what time frame do you use to define stability?
Ok literally and not literally with the opening thread title but please read on!
Frag tanks seem like a fun way to grow some cute little baby corals, lol, and to also scratch an itch to set up a new tank. But I can't help but think that more times than not that they get shut down because they are not well thought out or we forget that they will need maintaining just like our main display.
It's like buying a little puppy because it's cute but forgetting that it will poop, cry and need to be fed!
How many frag tanks have you set up and eventually dismantled because it was too much work or for other various reasons?
VOTE and then tell us about your experience.
I don't think so. In my opinion a successful tank that remains ich less is because the fish are always happy and healthy, so ich never shows. Obviously I'm sure there's some cases where tanks are truly ich free, I just think there few and far between. Hard to imagine one single parasite isn't somewhere in your tank just waiting to find a host. Opinions?
It's often asked what is the normal amount of evaporation. I really don't think there is a "normal" because there are many factors that come in to play when discussing evaporation and we all have to deal with it based on our own circumstances.
So the goal here is to get a range from the members on the amount of daily evaporation. Let's look at a percentage instead of an amount.
Ive been going around doing a lot of research and I’ve heard it all. Some people just float the bag to temperature Acclimate, some drip Acclimate, and some don’t do either and just dip their coral and toss it in. I personally just float the bag, dip the coral with the water it came in and my choice of coral dip, then toss it in. How do you Acclimate your coral?
Not only curious if you've voted for this month's contest winner, but if you participate in the Picture of the Month (POTM) contests?
Here is the link to this month's POTM voting poll...
A while ago we featured a poll asking where your pH topped out on a daily basis. Thought it might be interesting to see where it bottoms out. I personally don't chase or actually worry about pH as mine tends to be pretty stable (8.1-8.3). But let's look at where others bottom out daily.
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