Finally, the complete rundown on the Kessil A360X | BRStv Investigates

Is the Kessil A360X is worth the extra $100?

  • Yes

    Votes: 77 54.6%
  • No

    Votes: 59 41.8%
  • Other (comment your thoughts)

    Votes: 5 3.5%

  • Total voters
    141

madweazl

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If you could, that would be great to know... 39-40 db is really quiet, so I'm just wondering if the ambient noise is the same range and throwing off the difference between the two. Either way, I know they're not "dead slient" as suggested. ;)

If I remember right, they were about 9dB over ambient but I'll double check this evening. That was with the mic right up to the fan though; three feet away they're barely noticeable.
 

Jeff_H

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That makes sense... Thanks for the offer to double check, but I think I'm good. I was thinking of upgrading from a T5 hybrid to all LEDs, but I don't want to add noise to my setup. The tank is 3 feet from my desk in my home office, and I don't like to listen to whirling fans and pumps all day. :)

Thanks again for your response!
 

madweazl

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OK, I checked anyways but trying to keep my wife "quiet" was tough (she's working on dinner).

Ambient prior to X - 37dB
With the X - 38.3dB

Ambient prior to WE - 39.3dB
With the WE - 40.8dB

All were 30 second averages
 

Jeff_H

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OK, I checked anyways but trying to keep my wife "quiet" was tough (she's working on dinner).

Ambient prior to X - 37dB
With the X - 38.3dB

Ambient prior to WE - 39.3dB
With the WE - 40.8dB

All were 30 second averages


That appears to be about what you saw last time... Maybe a little quieter, but not noticeable. Thanks again... Time to make some decisions!
 

madweazl

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That appears to be about what you saw last time... Maybe a little quieter, but not noticeable. Thanks again... Time to make some decisions!

And for what it's worth, I run the Kessils in a hybrid setup; 4xT5 and 2x A360WEs on the 75g and planning on running 6xT5 and 3xA360X on the 150g.
 

Jeff_H

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And for what it's worth, I run the Kessils in a hybrid setup; 4xT5 and 2x A360WEs on the 75g and planning on running 6xT5 and 3xA360X on the 150g.
How

How wide is your 150?

Mine is 72" X 26" X 22 (with a eurobrace) and I'm currently running four A360WEs with four T5s. The canopy is/was tempory until I decided on the permanent design. I've been going thinking of three designs.

1. Go with 6 T5s and three or four A80s just for shimmer and low light night viewing. The upside would be a lower profile canopy, plus zero noise since my retro kit and the A80s have no fans. But - I don't know if I could make it fit with the eurobrace without losing PAR.

2. Go with 4 T5s and three or four A360Xs for better PAR and color control. The upside would be the same noise and a lower profile canopy. (likely not worth the cost)

3. Go with 8ish A360Xs on a floating light bar I thinking of building that should look very clean. The upside would be no canopy (easier access in the tank) full control over color and par for different areas of the tank. I'm not sure about the light spill with two rows of Xs without using articulating mounts, which would ruin the look IMO.

Obviously, all three have pros/cons... I guess we can't have our cake and eat it too just yet!
 

Ross Petersen

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If I was starting from nothing, I would probably pay the extra $100 and go with 3 x A360X for my 90gal. However, I already have 3 x A360N with the Aquatic Life hybrid fixture set up, and not worth the upgrade to me. Also agree that would like to see Apex compatibility. So many are already vested in Neptune gear, I wouldn't want to spend the $100 for the controller. All together, that would cover the cost of another A360.
Precisely... I'm on the fence about buying the 360x (2-3 units). Let's go Kessil - read these forums and reviews and collaborate with Apex before they make/invest in a phenomenal LED with Kessil-like shimmer. The extra $100 for the controller is an outdated approach - but yes, circumvents wifi problems.
 

Jeff_H

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Wh
Precisely... I'm on the fence about buying the 360x (2-3 units). Let's go Kessil - read these forums and reviews and collaborate with Apex before they make/invest in a phenomenal LED with Kessil-like shimmer. The extra $100 for the controller is an outdated approach - but yes, circumvents wifi problems.
While I understand the reasons for wanting the integration with APEX, and I currently have my 360s setup this way, I can tell you that I no longer feel it’s a big deal to have the integration, minus the additional $100 cost.

1. Since I setup the lights over two years ago, I almost never adjust the settings. So unless you think you’re going to be changing the light settings all the time, I don’t see the value of having it integrated into APEX.

2. Speaking from as a reefer who has lost their Apex head unit, I no longer think it’s a great idea to have the Apex control everything on my tank. While my Apex was out I had to reconfigure the lights and use a manual timer to keep them running while I was waiting for a new APEX head unit. I know have a spare head unit, but since you can’t just backup a config file and restore from it, it’s a BITA to recover the APEX code manually.

I now use independent controllers where possible for different functions (flow, pumps, ATO, etc) and let the APEX be the overarching monitor and master controller over the power outlets. This way I can lose the APEX and still have each function continue to run while I replace the head unit and reprogram the code.

Just my .02 cents!
 

Montiman

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Just my .02 cents!
[/QUOTE]
I now use independent controllers where possible for different functions (flow, pumps, ATO, etc) and let the APEX be the overarching monitor and master controller over the power outlets. This way I can lose the APEX and still have each function continue to run while I replace the head unit and reprogram the code.

Exactly.

I think people often forget that aquarium equipment is life support equipment. If you were in the hospital on life support would you want all of the life support equipment controlled by WiFi on a single computer?

I sure wouldn't. WiFi is cool but I would rather my life support be wired and I want as much decentralization as possible. I love my apex but I think the Kessil system is a more reliable and professional approach.
 
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Ross Petersen

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If the apex is used largely or solely to monitor current to each outlet and turn on/off gadgets, I do believe there are options on the market that will do that at a fraction of the cost. Anyone know of any?!

Perhaps this is where the reef industry goes: maintain the segregation of awesome toys, some of which have a timer and others their own unique controller systems.

With that said, one app and one universal controller reduces hardware, cables, cost, and streamlines efficiency. In this case, prudent to run the return pump (or a wave pump) on a separate wall outlet if the apex faulters, no problem.

I hear you though - it’s the overly programmed planes falling from the sky, not the time-tested ones. Mind you, human error is a consideration in all this and integration and automation is the future, like it or not I suspect. Getting there is the hard part. It may not be the best time to spend a thousand on a controller quiet yet.
 

Greenjeans

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I already have 3x a360x over a 4x2x2 tank, and while it'd be nice to add a 4th and follow the recommendations exactly, I'd like to stick with 3 for now.

I plan to lower them from the recommended 8", there's just too much light spill to enjoy the tank without glare..it sounds like ~5" might work.

What sort of spacing would be ideal? Centering them all at 12" apart and 12" from the sides doesn't seem ideal.

Thanks for the great videos!
 
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I already have 3x a360x over a 4x2x2 tank, and while it'd be nice to add a 4th and follow the recommendations exactly, I'd like to stick with 3 for now.

I plan to lower them from the recommended 8", there's just too much light spill to enjoy the tank without glare..it sounds like ~5" might work.

What sort of spacing would be ideal? Centering them all at 12" apart and 12" from the sides doesn't seem ideal.

Thanks for the great videos!

They just updated their video on the a360x. This may help you:

 

Daniel Waters

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I already have 3x a360x over a 4x2x2 tank, and while it'd be nice to add a 4th and follow the recommendations exactly, I'd like to stick with 3 for now.

I plan to lower them from the recommended 8", there's just too much light spill to enjoy the tank without glare..it sounds like ~5" might work.

What sort of spacing would be ideal? Centering them all at 12" apart and 12" from the sides doesn't seem ideal.

Thanks for the great videos!
@Greenjeans , my 2 cents. If the wide angle lens is causing too much glare and you need to lower them, then that will help, but the impact is really going to depend on your corals placement. If you have corals 6" underneath the water surface, you might start to get a significant hot spot at that mounting height. And it also depends on what corals you are keeping. If your corals are all 12" or deeper, then the spread on the kessils is usually pretty good to get a nice even spread without hot spots. You really just need to look at the par numbers and mounting heights in their videos. If it's just light spill outside the tank you are worried about, I'd say move the lights in closer and maybe adjust intensity down and maybe drop the lights an inch. But it really depends on your light needs in the edges for the corals you are keeping. I'm surprised you are getting that much noticeable light spill, although I'd have to resort to my trigonometry to calculate the expected spread on that wide angle lens. Some people are using 3d printed cones to help keep light from bleeding out. That might help if you arex seeing glare from looking at the tank and the lights are visible / don't have a canopy hiding them.
 

Greenjeans

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I did watch that latest BRS video on the a360x hence my thoughts, I thought this was the thread for that video and didn't check the dates, oops! :p

Thanks - I did check thingiverse but didn't see any appropriate hoods, that might be an ideal solution if someone shares one.

The tank is still brand new with no corals, so I have some flexibility with planning.

Here's some pictures of the light spill with the lights sitting ~6" from the surface, evenly spaced at 12" apart - right across head height in my chair :(

IMG_20200314_142035.jpg IMG_20200314_141751.jpg IMG_20200314_141742.jpg IMG_20200314_141733.jpg
 
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I did watch that latest BRS video on the a360x hence my thoughts, I thought this was the thread for that video and didn't check the dates, oops! :p

Thanks - I did check thingiverse but didn't see any appropriate hoods, that might be an ideal solution if someone shares one.

The tank is still brand new with no corals, so I have some flexibility with planning.

Here's some pictures of the light spill with the lights sitting ~6" from the surface, evenly spaced at 12" apart - right across head height in my chair :(

IMG_20200314_142035.jpg IMG_20200314_141751.jpg IMG_20200314_141742.jpg IMG_20200314_141733.jpg

Is it easy to adjust? Try 8" and see what it does. May also consider the lens they sell. It will pull in / reduce the spread. I forget the amount but if you check Kessil's site it will give you the right number.

Nice set up btw.
 

Greenjeans

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Is it easy to adjust? Try 8" and see what it does. May also consider the lens they sell. It will pull in / reduce the spread. I forget the amount but if you check Kessil's site it will give you the right number.

Nice set up btw.

It is very easy to adjust - but 8" will increase the light spill, not decrease! The pictures are with the light's set at 6" from the surface.

I do also have the narrow angle reflectors cause I wanted to experiment, and they work wonderfully for eliminating the light spill - but looking at the coverage it seems like I'll get strong hot spots and uneven lighting with only 3 lights.

Kessil-Narrow-Reflector-for-A360X-Controllable-LED-Aquarium-Light-96.jpg
 
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It is very easy to adjust - but 8" will increase the light spill, not decrease! The pictures are with the light's set at 6" from the surface.

I do also have the narrow angle reflectors cause I wanted to experiment, and they work wonderfully for eliminating the light spill - but looking at the coverage it seems like I'll get strong hot spots and uneven lighting with only 3 lights.

Kessil-Narrow-Reflector-for-A360X-Controllable-LED-Aquarium-Light-96.jpg

Ok, got it. Thanks :). I use 3 a360x's over my 210 which is 54" x 30" x 30". I've considered switching to the narrow reflector and adding a 4th.
 

Daniel Waters

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@Greenjeans Do a floating canopy. If you don't want a canopy, I'd just move lights in closer to center or buy some cone covers. Just depends on what look you want. You don't need the intensity, but I don't like keeping lights so close to the water because of water splashes and stuff that inevitably happens and gets on lenses. I had one wrasse that would knock out massive amounts of water sometimes so I like my lights as high as I can get away with (but i use a floating canopy and have plenty of par I can afford to lose)

Nice tank by the way!
 

Montiman

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I might also consider the new full angle adapter. Angeling the side lights in will reduce the light spill from the sides. I have angled adapters on two regular 360s and it definitely helps reduce the light spill.
 

Greenjeans

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I might also consider the new full angle adapter. Angeling the side lights in will reduce the light spill from the sides. I have angled adapters on two regular 360s and it definitely helps reduce the light spill.
Great idea, and could definitely help with light spill from the sides - but I'd still deal with light spill from the front unless I moved the lights forward and pointed them towards the back...that'd be weird. The light spill from the front is the problematic bit as it gets in the way of viewing.

The floating canopy could work? The problem is that a canopy the same dimensions as the tank would need to come down basically 1" past the rim of the aquarium, not really possible and would look terrible.

I'm thinking basically a rectangular black box "canopy", just slightly wider and longer than the light fixture currently is. It would have to come down to about 2" off the water to prevent light spill outside of the aquarium, and be tall enough to conceal the light bodies sitting 8" off the surface...might not look terrible?

I guess these are my options:
- run the lights very low (Sitting at ~4" off the water there's an acceptable amount of light spill, I wouldn't like to go higher)
- Use the narrow reflector and run the lights ~9" off the water. No light spill! I worry about the focused spotlighting effect on the health of my (future) corals though. I imagine I will get very uneven par in my tank....which might be okay if I place corals accordingly?
- Build a "canopy" ~5"d x 30"l x 6"h, suspend it ~6" from the water and run the lights 8" off the water like BRS recommends.
- Learn or find someone to design a 3d printed shroud...
 

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