First Ich sighting, need some help!

[AustinB]

So I found my first signs of ich on my blue tang and nothing else so far. Hospital tank is almost ready, I’ll be putting her in tonight.
Also she has been the latest addition to the tank besides a Duncan coral. I did not quarantine the tang because I had had my eye on her at the LFS store for almost 3 weeks. I know I know my bad, but I’m learning the hard way on this one and it won’t happen again.

Question 1, what do I do with all of the other fish? 2 clowns, 1 lawnmower, 2 damsels? If there are no signs of them having ich does that mean that the parasites can not, or have not attached and will die off in their normal life cycle since they can not find a host?

Question 2, how long do I treat with copper, or should I use another safer treatment? I do have a bottle of Kordans ich attack and another that was given to me that is in the fridge that I can’t remember the name of, I’ll update later today with pictures as well.

Question 3, like question 1, I’ve heard that I have to move all fish out of the aquarium, I don’t really want to but understand if I have to. If I do, do all of them need to be treated with ich, or just monitored in a separate tank?

Question 4, I’ve heard of dipping fish in fresh water or some kind of medication prior to quarantine, to proactively treat anything they might have, instead of just doing a 30+ day observation. What is that all about?

Question 5, UV sterilizers, do they work with preventing parasites, and are they worth it? I’ve heard both sides do much that I’m right in the middle so a push in either direction will help.

Thanks for the input guys I promise to quarantine all fish, and dip all corals from here on out. Lesson learned the hard way!

 

[Rover]

Answers in red

So I found my first signs of ich on my blue tang and nothing else so far. Hospital tank is almost ready, I’ll be putting her in tonight.
Also she has been the latest addition to the tank besides a Duncan coral. I did not quarantine the tang because I had had my eye on her at the LFS store for almost 3 weeks. I know I know my bad, but I’m learning the hard way on this one and it won’t happen again.

Question 1, what do I do with all of the other fish? 2 clowns, 1 lawnmower, 2 damsels? If there are no signs of them having ich does that mean that the parasites can not, or have not attached and will die off in their normal life cycle since they can not find a host?
Every fish in your tank could have Ich. All of the must be treated in the hospital tank as if they have ich. Your tank must be kept fallow (fishless) for 76+ days

Question 2, how long do I treat with copper, or should I use another safer treatment? I do have a bottle of Kordans ich attack and another that was given to me that is in the fridge that I can’t remember the name of, I’ll update later today with pictures as well.
Follow the instructions on the medication. Cupramine treatment is two weeks but remember you need to move them OUT of the hospital tank after treatment into another completely 'clean' tank, as the hospital tank will be infected with cysted ich.

Question 3, like question 1, I’ve heard that I have to move all fish out of the aquarium, I don’t really want to but understand if I have to. If I do, do all of them need to be treated with ich, or just monitored in a separate tank?
They all must be moved and treated as if they have ich.

Question 4, I’ve heard of dipping fish in fresh water or some kind of medication prior to quarantine, to proactively treat anything they might have, instead of just doing a 30+ day observation. What is that all about?
This does not work. You must treat them all as if they have ich using medication, hyposalinity, or tank transfer method.


Question 5, UV sterilizers, do they work with preventing parasites, and are they worth it? I’ve heard both sides do much that I’m right in the middle so a push in either direction will help.
UV Sterilizers are part of ich management. They will keep out breaks low, but will not kill ich off completely or stop it.

Thanks for the input guys I promise to quarantine all fish, and dip all corals from here on out. Lesson learned the hard way!

 

[JasonK84]

1. + 3. All fish will need to be removed from display and treated.

2. 14 day minimum at therapeutic levels then observation

4. Fresh water dip will help with immediate relief of a severely infected fish but will not cure of ich

5.UV sterilizers are great at water clarification but only somewhat effective at killing parasites. They can help but won't rid the tank of them.

Good luck on your fish treatment and keep us posted.

 

[JasonK84]

#mod

Maybe move to disease and treatment forum?

 

[Rover]

Also sorry if I seemed short in first post, was in the middle of something work related. Revisiting to add...

Join the club! I just started ich treatment last night for my second time, as I obviously failed at QT. (despite trying).

Read this, its great help!

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/

 

[ScooterV]

2. 14 day minimum at therapeutic levels then observation

Just a clarification. If going with 14 days the fish must be moved to a second, sterile tank at the end of the 14 days. If planning to treat, and then just reduce copper in the same tank you need to go 30 days or more.

 

[BigRedReefer MT]

4. The fresh water dip will amaze you when you see things falling off your infected fish. My powder brown Tang went belly up the second he hit the water but it was a ploy. Just use the handle of your net to keep the Tang swimming for a few minutes but don't over stress your fish.

5. Uv sterilizers can help to kill the free swimming parisitic stage but if you use a chelated copper product it can break it down into ionic copper which has a much lower therapeutic concentration and cause it to become toxic. ( Learned from experience here )

1. All the fish have to be treated. I couldn't catch my basslet to move to HT but he wasn't showing any signs so I thought he would be fine. Next day = crab food.

 

[JasonK84]

Just a clarification. If going with 14 days the fish must be moved to a second, sterile tank at the end of the 14 days. If planning to treat, and then just reduce copper in the same tank you need to go 30 days or more.

Minimum 14 day but that is from the last sighting of any ich or ich behavior. 30 days is good but does not include ramp up time to therapeutic levels. No need to transfer after running copper. Do water change and run carbon to remove the rest of the copper after treatment and continue monitoring in the same QT.

 

[AustinB]

1. + 3. All fish will need to be removed from display and treated.

2. 14 day minimum at therapeutic levels then observation

4. Fresh water dip will help with immediate relief of a severely infected fish but will not cure of ich

5.UV sterilizers are great at water clarification but only somewhat effective at killing parasites. They can help but won't rid the tank of them.

Good luck on your fish treatment and keep us posted.

No need to apologize that was perfect, short simple and to the point! I now have a couple more questions though. So I guess I will be needing a larger hospital.... would a 20 long be good? Or should I go 29? Luckily it’s the dollar per gallon sale at petco ha ha.
Do I need anything special in the hospital habitat for the blenny since he is a bottom feeder, or just the usual pvc hidey holes?
Should I be doing anything to the DT or just feeding corals and keeping up on routine maintenance?

 

[JasonK84]

What

No need to apologize that was perfect, short simple and to the point! I now have a couple more questions though. So I guess I will be needing a larger hospital.... would a 20 long be good? Or should I go 29? Luckily it’s the dollar per gallon sale at petco ha ha.
Do I need anything special in the hospital habitat for the blenny since he is a bottom feeder, or just the usual pvc hidey holes?
Should I be doing anything to the DT or just feeding corals and keeping up on routine maintenance?

what is the list of fish and sizes in the tank?

 

[BigRedReefer MT]

Just thought I would add that mine was velvet and not ich as originally thought. Not sure what the fallow period is on ich, but be sure to allow DT to run fallow for that period even if fish have turned the corner and returned to good health.

Good luck, god bless, and don't let it keep you down. Keep strong and carry on.

 

[BigRedReefer MT]

IME all I had was a 20 gallon HT to house a majestic angel, powder brown Tang, and snow onyx clown. The clown and Tang succumbed to the toxic level of copper ions (UV sterilizer) but the angel survived and had no problem running his 30 day treatment period and additional 46 day fallow period in the small tank.

 

[Cali Reef Life]

Question: 1 All the fish have to go into quarantine tank and you have to run your tank for 6- 10 weeks with out fish in there. I went 73 days when I had this and lost half my fish before I moved them after 2 weeks of waiting.
I haven't had ich since and quarantine anything wet.

#2 Cupramine is the best copper since it's more safe for the fish. I am sure others will do as long as it has copper. I would not use Kordans ich attack, this is used to help them not a cure.



#3 Treat them all or you will run the same cycle. I would start off at half the dose and slowly bring them up to the right level. Get a copper test kit and monitor it every time you do a water change, which will be a lot since it's a smaller tank. Make sure to use the same brand copper kit as the one you bought.
Have a plan because once the coppers out of the system ich might be in the quarantine tank. Research the life cycle of ich. I personally had to dose twice because it came back during the 70 day period because I didn't have a plan well the fish were in the quarantine tank. Had to redose the last 2 weeks of treatment, which was stressful on the fish. The three fish survived and are still thriving in my ich free tank over a year later.
I now dose any new fish for 2 weeks before they go into my main. Many people will tell you not to, but that's how I do it and remain ich free. Haven't lost a fish since and have reached my stock limit of my tank.

#4 Before they go into the quarantine tank or if they are looking really bad . This can be stressful on the fish.

#5 Save your money and get a coral quarantine tank and quarantine anything wet. I set up a quarantine tank for just corals and invertebrates for under 50 bucks using offer up and making it simple. Well besides the lighting, which I bought for under 70 bucks "Hipargero LED Aquarium Light – Aquarium LED Lights 30W Saltwater". Nothing wet goes into my tank without going into quarantine for 5-7 weeks for non fish and 3 weeks for fish. 1 week observation and 2 weeks of Cupramine at the minimum levels.

These are my opinions and are not to be taken as the best solutions just something that has worked for a fellow reefer! PS Dip your corals in something it will save you money.
Wish you the best of luck!

 

[ScooterV]

Minimum 14 day but that is from the last sighting of any ich or ich behavior. 30 days is good but does not include ramp up time to therapeutic levels. No need to transfer after running copper. Do water change and run carbon to remove the rest of the copper after treatment and continue monitoring in the same QT.

It's all about risk tolerance, but I can't see risking only 14 days unless doing a transfer myself.

Not even counting the strain from the Burgess study that took longer, the trophont stage is 3-7 days, Protomont 2-18 hours, and tomont and average of two weeks. Without moving to a sterile tank 14 days barely even covers just the tomont stage, and an asymptomatic fish could slip through. If moving the fish the tomonts are left behind so only the trophont stage needs to be covered. Then again, if the fish are handling it well, I'd think more than 30 would be in order but being so much easier on the fish I like the 14 days and out myself Everyone doesn't have the space, tanks, or spouse ok with QT tanks all over the house either though, lol.

 

[AustinB]

What

what is the list of fish and sizes in the tank?

1 1/2 inch clowns (2) and 1 blue tang
3/4 inch domino and a blue and gold damsel
2 inch lawnmower blenny

QT was going to be a 10 gallon but I imagine daily water changes and no room for fish to de-stress

BRS RODI system won’t be here until Tuesday so I was hoping to keep water runs to a minimum until then.

 

[JasonK84]

It's all about risk tolerance, but I can't see risking only 14 days unless doing a transfer myself.

Not even counting the strain from the Burgess study that took longer, the trophont stage is 3-7 days, Protomont 2-18 hours, and tomont and average of two weeks. Without moving to a sterile tank 14 days barely even covers just the tomont stage, and an asymptomatic fish could slip through. If moving the fish the tomonts are left behind so only the trophont stage needs to be covered. Then again, if the fish are handling it well, I'd think more than 30 would be in order but being so much easier on the fish I like the 14 days and out myself Everyone doesn't have the space, tanks, or spouse ok with QT tanks all over the house either though, lol.

Agreed, and this is where the observation period will help. You don't just run the 14 days of no symptoms and throw it in DT without observing for a period of time you are comfortable with.

I've started using CP instead of copper on fish that can handle it and run it for 21 days. Got a pink face wrasse coming Tuesday from DD that I'm debating in my head on trying CP or going with copper power. I put a thread out and so far not seeing anyone who has tried CP on this wrasse.

People have different QT protocol and it's based on what works for them or from getting burned and changing to a more fail safe option. Nothing is 100% here but you can sure tip the scales in your favor. Longer treatments of course will be effective but only as long as the fish is taking it well.

As far as the spouse and QT tanks: I'm really pressing my luck as today will be setting up the 4th tank in the house to start QT on this wrasse because my main QT is occupied with fish in the middle of CP treatment.

 

[AustinB]

Minimum 14 day but that is from the last sighting of any ich or ich behavior. 30 days is good but does not include ramp up time to therapeutic levels. No need to transfer after running copper. Do water change and run carbon to remove the rest of the copper after treatment and continue monitoring in the same QT.

Got it thank you!

 

[JasonK84]

1 1/2 inch clowns (2) and 1 blue tang
3/4 inch domino and a blue and gold damsel
2 inch lawnmower blenny

QT was going to be a 10 gallon but I imagine daily water changes and no room for fish to de-stress

BRS RODI system won’t be here until Tuesday so I was hoping to keep water runs to a minimum until then.

I'd do the 20 with the 6 fish or the 29 if you've got the room for it. I use a 20 myself.

The blenny doesn't need sand as it isn't one that burrows or filters sand. Just go bare bottom with plenty on f PVC elbows so all fish have a place to call home. Tight quarters can be a cause for aggression so the PVC fittings are important.

 

[AustinB]

Question: 1 All the fish have to go into quarantine tank and you have to run your tank for 6- 10 weeks with out fish in there. I went 73 days when I had this and lost half my fish before I moved them after 2 weeks of waiting.
I haven't had ich since and quarantine anything wet.

#2 Cupramine is the best copper since it's more safe for the fish. I am sure others will do as long as it has copper. I would not use Kordans ich attack, this is used to help them not a cure.



#3 Treat them all or you will run the same cycle. I would start off at half the dose and slowly bring them up to the right level. Get a copper test kit and monitor it every time you do a water change, which will be a lot since it's a smaller tank. Make sure to use the same brand copper kit as the one you bought.
Have a plan because once the coppers out of the system ich might be in the quarantine tank. Research the life cycle of ich. I personally had to dose twice because it came back during the 70 day period because I didn't have a plan well the fish were in the quarantine tank. Had to redose the last 2 weeks of treatment, which was stressful on the fish. The three fish survived and are still thriving in my ich free tank over a year later.
I now dose any new fish for 2 weeks before they go into my main. Many people will tell you not to, but that's how I do it and remain ich free. Haven't lost a fish since and have reached my stock limit of my tank.

#4 Before they go into the quarantine tank or if they are looking really bad . This can be stressful on the fish.

#5 Save your money and get a coral quarantine tank and quarantine anything wet. I set up a quarantine tank for just corals and invertebrates for under 50 bucks using offer up and making it simple. Well besides the lighting, which I bought for under 70 bucks "Hipargero LED Aquarium Light – Aquarium LED Lights 30W Saltwater". Nothing wet goes into my tank without going into quarantine for 5-7 weeks for non fish and 3 weeks for fish. 1 week observation and 2 weeks of Cupramine at the minimum levels.

These are my opinions and are not to be taken as the best solutions just something that has worked for a fellow reefer! PS Dip your corals in something it will save you money.
Wish you the best of luck!

Well I can only learn techniques by using others success stories so I will take your advise and run with it! Thank you very much

 

[AustinB]

Should I dose ammonia or nitrates in the DT over the next 76 + - days?