First Reef Tank. 32 Gallons. Need Advice.

[Mikedawg]

All really good stuff guys, I appreciate the input!

Here is an updated list of what I plan to pick up and some further questions:

Overflow- Tunze nano

Powerhead- Sicce voyager

Media Baskets-intank media baskets

Return Pump-Sicce sdc 3.0

Protein Skimmer-?

Heater 150-200w heater-?

Additional Lighting-?

Others-?

What exactly is a media basket and how does it work?

Here is also an updated stocking list. Basically 4-6 fish, some corals, and clean up crew. Really appreciate any comments, critiques, and suggestions:

2 Pink skunk Clownfish OR 1 Chromis

1 Firefish Goby

1 Blackcap Basslet

1 Lawnmower Blenny OR Diamond Watchmen Goby OR Two Spot Goby OR OR Yellow Coral Goby

1 Aiptasia Eating Filefish OR Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse

I wouldn't recommend the two spot goby - they generally need to be target fed or will not be able to compete with other fish. That said, I find them very intriguing and worth the effort.

 

[Kiboshed]

I wouldn't recommend the two spot goby - they generally need to be target fed or will not be able to compete with other fish. That said, I find them very intriguing and worth the effort.

Good to know. I will remove it from the list.

I also read that Lawnmower Blennies easily starve to death because lack of mature algae growth in newer tanks, but then I also read that they will readily eat provided saltwater plant based aquarim food like seaweed placed on a clip near the bottom.

Any thoughts on this? Love the look and personality of Lawnmower Blennie, but also don't want to buy one just to watch it starve to death.

Current upgrades to go with it:

Overflow- Tunze nano

Powerhead- Sicce voyager

Media Baskets-intank media baskets

Return Pump-Sicce sdc 3.0

Protein Skimmer-?

Heater 150-200w heater-?

Additional Lighting-?

Others-?

And updated stocking list:

2 Pink skunk Clownfish OR 1 Chromis

1 Firefish Goby

1 Blackcap Basslet

1 Lawnmower Blenny OR Diamond Watchmen Goby OR Yellow Coral Goby

1 Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse

Appreciate any help and suggestions.

 

[Mikedawg]

Good to know. I will remove it from the list.

I also read that Lawnmower Blennies easily starve to death because lack of mature algae growth in newer tanks, but then I also read that they will readily eat provided saltwater plant based aquarim food like seaweed placed on a clip near the bottom.

Any thoughts on this? Love the look and personality of Lawnmower Blennie, but also don't want to buy one just to watch it starve to death.

Current upgrades to go with it:

Overflow- Tunze nano

Powerhead- Sicce voyager

Media Baskets-intank media baskets

Return Pump-Sicce sdc 3.0

Protein Skimmer-?

Heater 150-200w heater-?

Additional Lighting-?

Others-?

And updated stocking list:

2 Pink skunk Clownfish OR 1 Chromis

1 Firefish Goby

1 Blackcap Basslet

1 Lawnmower Blenny OR Diamond Watchmen Goby OR Yellow Coral Goby

1 Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse

Appreciate any help and suggestions.

Mine has taken Nori (rubber banded to a rock), algae wafers, and some other flake foods made for herbivores in addition to a couple species of algae. They also consume detritus I believe. Good luck.

 

[MaxTremors]

I had the 32.5 flex for a few years and did not experience issues with water level, it seems the water level dropped in only the center chamber of the overflow box. This actually was really useful for ATO and water level management in my opinion.

I did see others report issues with heat, Kraken lids makes a nice cover for the flex that helps with this issue. While I might disagree about those two points, I would also recommend skipping the flex 32.5. The front curved glass collects fine particles due to the lower curve area being like a shelf, and also made viewing difficult, as any angle other than straight in looks distorted due to the curve. The overall dimensions were just too constricting for my personal preferences as well. With the curve front and AIO back in the center of the tank feels extremely tight.

That’s what I’m talking about, the entire middle chamber (which is like 75% of the entire filter compartment) doesn’t have a constant water level, it’s just a lot of wasted space. Every AiO has a return chamber that doesn’t have a constant water level where you put your ATO and can monitor the water level/evaporation, but having just a single chamber that doesn’t have a constant water level makes it difficult to keep a skimmer dialed in and you run the risk of your heater becoming exposed. Every other AiO has 2-3 different chambers with constant water levels (in addition to the return chamber) that direct water over and under baffles to create directional flow through filter racks/media while providing a constant water level for heaters, skimmers, and other accessories that need it.

You are right about the curved glass, curved glass is a pain to keep clean.

 

[adittam]

If you like the footprint and look of the all-in-ones (AIO), by all means, go for it. That said, another simple beginner option is a 40 breeder with a Seachem Tidal 110 HOB filter as the main filtration. 40 breeders are cheap, and ridiculously easy to find gear for. The main downside is that you won't have as clean of an appearance as an AIO. The upside is, you'll have no problem selling it for close to what you paid for it whenever you're ready to upgrade, or you could hang onto it for a QT system or DIY sump, depending on what you upgrade to. The footprint of the 40 breeder also makes for some great aquascapes and gives you a few more options for medium size fish than a biocube.

 

[MaxTremors]

Well that is two suggestions now drifting me away from the Flex and more toward the Cube.

Once again do you have any suggestions on upgrades for the Biocube? Or the must have parts to put in the DIY 40 gallon breeder with the Fuji intank insert?

The biocube is pretty complete on its own. You’ll need a heater and while not necessary, an in-tank media basket will make it easy to organize your filter media. You’ll also need a wave maker, the return pump alone isn’t enough flow for a reef, I’d recommend either a Nero 3 or a Jebao SLW 10 The lighting is just okay, it’ll grow most soft corals and LPS, but the spectrum isn’t the greatest and it’s somewhat underpowered.

Personally, in that form factor, I’d go with the JBJ Wi-Fi Nanocube, it’s got better, more intense lighting (it’s app controlled and you can adjust the intensities and schedule of each channel, on the biocube each channel is just on or off on a timer), and it’s got dual returns that can alternate back and forth so it helps create more random flow. I also think the filter chambers are more well thought out. I’ve ran both biocubes and nanocubes, and IMO the nanocube is the better tank (especially if you’re going to be sticking with the stock lighting). You’d still need the heater, wave maker, and media basket (the nano cube does come with one, but it’s kind of janky).

The biocube is still a great tank though, you really can’t go wrong with either, they’re both super beginner friendly, easy to modify/add upgrades, and have lots of aftermarket products made specifically to fit them (lids, media baskets, skimmers, etc).

 

[Kiboshed]

The biocube is pretty complete on its own. You’ll need a heater and while not necessary, an in-tank media basket will make it easy to organize your filter media. You’ll also need a wave maker, the return pump alone isn’t enough flow for a reef, I’d recommend either a Nero 3 or a Jebao SLW 10 The lighting is just okay, it’ll grow most soft corals and LPS, but the spectrum isn’t the greatest and it’s somewhat underpowered.

Personally, in that form factor, I’d go with the JBJ Wi-Fi Nanocube, it’s got better, more intense lighting (it’s app controlled and you can adjust the intensities and schedule of each channel, on the biocube each channel is just on or off on a timer), and it’s got dual returns that can alternate back and forth so it helps create more random flow. I also think the filter chambers are more well thought out. I’ve ran both biocubes and nanocubes, and IMO the nanocube is the better tank (especially if you’re going to be sticking with the stock lighting). You’d still need the heater, wave maker, and media basket (the nano cube does come with one, but it’s kind of janky).

The biocube is still a great tank though, you really can’t go wrong with either, they’re both super beginner friendly, easy to modify/add upgrades, and have lots of aftermarket products made specifically to fit them (lids, media baskets, skimmers, etc).

So leaning into the 32 gal Biocube I came up with an updated upgrade, stock, and coral list.

Please let me know what you all think.

Upgrades:

Media Basket- 1 Intank media basket

Protein Skimmer- Biocube protein skimmer size 32

Heater- Cobalt Aquatics Flat Neo 150w

Overflow- Tunze Osmolator Nano ATO

Powerhead- Nero 3 with maybe a supplimental Sicce voyager

Heater Controller- Inkbird wifi

Thermometer- Electronic & Strip

Refractometer

API Reef Master Test Kit

Instant Ocean Reef Salt

Aquarium Glass Cleaner- Flipper

Rock Epoxy- Instant Ocean Holdfast

Stocking list (Combination of 4-6 of these):

2 Pink skunk Clownfish OR 1 Chromis

1 Firefish Goby OR Purple Firefish OR Scissortail Dartfish

1 Yasha White Ray Shrimp Goby OR Dracula Goby OR Hi Fin Red Banded Goby OR Lawnmower Blenny OR Diamond Watchmen Goby OR Orange Stripe Prawn Goby

1 Harptail Blenny OR Tail Spot Blenny OR Two Spot Bimaculatus Blenny OR Smith's Blenny

1 Flame Hawkfish

1 Blackcap Basslet OR Chalk Bass

1 Aiptasia Eating Filefish OR Whitespotted Pygmy Filefish OR Radial Filefish

1 Banded Possum Wrasse

Corals (2 of these to start):

Torch coral (Euphyllia glabrescens)

Toadstool coral

Green Star Polyps

Pulsing Xenia

Mushroom Corals

Appreciate any thoughts or suggestions on these lists.

Question:

What do you all put in your media baskets and in what layers?

You have all been a great help, appreciate the input.

 

[Tomik]

you may want to check in marketplace, one came for sale today with top of line equipment ready to go for sale. in my opinion its an excellent deal. i own a fluvial flex 32 and upgrading to red sea reefer 250, whatever you decide its a great hobby which will keep you busy and no need to watch TV. any more .

 

[MaxTremors]

So leaning into the 32 gal Biocube I came up with an updated upgrade, stock, and coral list.

Please let me know what you all think.

Upgrades:

Media Basket- 1 Intank media basket

Protein Skimmer- Biocube protein skimmer size 32

Heater- Cobalt Aquatics Flat Neo 150w

Overflow- Tunze Osmolator Nano ATO

Powerhead- Nero 3 with maybe a supplimental Sicce voyager

Heater Controller- Inkbird wifi

Thermometer- Electronic & Strip

Refractometer

API Reef Master Test Kit

Instant Ocean Reef Salt

Aquarium Glass Cleaner- Flipper

Rock Epoxy- Instant Ocean Holdfast

Stocking list (Combination of 4-6 of these):

2 Pink skunk Clownfish OR 1 Chromis

1 Firefish Goby OR Purple Firefish OR Scissortail Dartfish

1 Yasha White Ray Shrimp Goby OR Dracula Goby OR Hi Fin Red Banded Goby OR Lawnmower Blenny OR Diamond Watchmen Goby OR Orange Stripe Prawn Goby

1 Harptail Blenny OR Tail Spot Blenny OR Two Spot Bimaculatus Blenny OR Smith's Blenny

1 Flame Hawkfish

1 Blackcap Basslet OR Chalk Bass

1 Aiptasia Eating Filefish OR Whitespotted Pygmy Filefish OR Radial Filefish

1 Banded Possum Wrasse

Corals (2 of these to start):

Torch coral (Euphyllia glabrescens)

Toadstool coral

Green Star Polyps

Pulsing Xenia

Mushroom Corals

Appreciate any thoughts or suggestions on these lists.

Question:

What do you all put in your media baskets and in what layers?

You have all been a great help, appreciate the input.

This looks pretty good. I’d avoid API test kits, they’re basically useless for reefing, for fish only they’re okay but they’re nowhere near specific or accurate enough for reefing. I’d recommend Salifert, Red Sea, or Hanna (specifically for nitrate and phosphate).

If you’re going to be keeping the stock hood on you won’t need an ATO, at most it’ll evaporate a half cup of water a day, but it won’t hurt to have one either.

I’d avoid the biocube skimmer, it’s really not very good, the best nano skimmer I’ve found (that will fit in the back chambers) is the Aquamaxx NF-1.

I know a lot of people use and swear by it, but for someone new who isn’t familiar with doctoring saltwater to fit the parameters you want, I’d go with something besides Instant Ocean, something that mixes in the 8-9dkh range instead of the 10-12 range (Red Sea, Fritz RPM, Coralife, there are lots, most major brands are just fine).

For the thermometers I’d get a good glass one and a digital one, the strips are inaccurate and difficult to read

Your stocking list is fine in terms of compatibility, but 6-7 small fish would be the absolute maximum for a tank this size. As far as corals, I’d wait on the torch until your tank is at least 6 months old and until you’ve got a good grasp on reef chemistry (and have good test kits), I’d start with just some soft corals at first (any of the other corals on your list).

As far as what people put in the media basket, you got two options, first to to put your filter media and filter floss/sponge in it, second is to grow macro algae in it (technically an algae scrubber and not a refugium, but same difference). If you go the refugium route, you can just through a bag of carbon or purigen (or both) in one of the chambers (wherever you can fit it), you’ll also need a light for this (affixed to the back glass). If you just want to use the media basket to hold media, I’d put some filter floss in the top (change/rinse out every 2-3 days, some carbon/chemipure blue, and some marine pure cubes or some live rock rubble.

Then lastly you’ll need to figure out what kind of rock you want. I’m probably biased, but personally, I can’t stand dry rock and I will never use it again (used it last year for the first time in 25 years and I hate it), I’d recommend getting real live rock from somewhere like KP Aquatics or Gulf Liverock. You’ll need to read up on curing it/removing undesirable hitchhikers, but IMO real live rock leads to a more healthy, stable, bacterially diverse, better looking, and more interesting tank (half of the appeal of a reef tank for me is cultivating a complex and diverse ecosystem/food chain, and all of the life and microfauna that comes on live rock is integral to that). But it’s up to you, the risks associated with live rock are pests/hitchhikers (which IME are completely manageable), the risks associated with dry rock are Dinoflagellates, nutrient issues (phosphate sponging/leaching), nuisance algae, longer to mature, and less bacterially diverse/balanced (all of which are more difficult to manage).

Anyway, sorry for the novel. Remember that this is just my opinion, there is more than one way to run a tank, that’s just what I’d do. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

 

[Kiboshed]

This looks pretty good. I’d avoid API test kits, they’re basically useless for reefing, for fish only they’re okay but they’re nowhere near specific or accurate enough for reefing. I’d recommend Salifert, Red Sea, or Hanna (specifically for nitrate and phosphate).

If you’re going to be keeping the stock hood on you won’t need an ATO, at most it’ll evaporate a half cup of water a day, but it won’t hurt to have one either.

I’d avoid the biocube skimmer, it’s really not very good, the best nano skimmer I’ve found (that will fit in the back chambers) is the Aquamaxx NF-1.

I know a lot of people use and swear by it, but for someone new who isn’t familiar with doctoring saltwater to fit the parameters you want, I’d go with something besides Instant Ocean, something that mixes in the 8-9dkh range instead of the 10-12 range (Red Sea, Fritz RPM, Coralife, there are lots, most major brands are just fine).

For the thermometers I’d get a good glass one and a digital one, the strips are inaccurate and difficult to read

Your stocking list is fine in terms of compatibility, but 6-7 small fish would be the absolute maximum for a tank this size. As far as corals, I’d wait on the torch until your tank is at least 6 months old and until you’ve got a good grasp on reef chemistry (and have good test kits), I’d start with just some soft corals at first (any of the other corals on your list).

As far as what people put in the media basket, you got two options, first to to put your filter media and filter floss/sponge in it, second is to grow macro algae in it (technically an algae scrubber and not a refugium, but same difference). If you go the refugium route, you can just through a bag of carbon or purigen (or both) in one of the chambers (wherever you can fit it), you’ll also need a light for this (affixed to the back glass). If you just want to use the media basket to hold media, I’d put some filter floss in the top (change/rinse out every 2-3 days, some carbon/chemipure blue, and some marine pure cubes or some live rock rubble.

Then lastly you’ll need to figure out what kind of rock you want. I’m probably biased, but personally, I can’t stand dry rock and I will never use it again (used it last year for the first time in 25 years and I hate it), I’d recommend getting real live rock from somewhere like KP Aquatics or Gulf Liverock. You’ll need to read up on curing it/removing undesirable hitchhikers, but IMO real live rock leads to a more healthy, stable, bacterially diverse, better looking, and more interesting tank (half of the appeal of a reef tank for me is cultivating a complex and diverse ecosystem/food chain, and all of the life and microfauna that comes on live rock is integral to that). But it’s up to you, the risks associated with live rock are pests/hitchhikers (which IME are completely manageable), the risks associated with dry rock are Dinoflagellates, nutrient issues (phosphate sponging/leaching), nuisance algae, longer to mature, and less bacterially diverse/balanced (all of which are more difficult to manage).

Anyway, sorry for the novel. Remember that this is just my opinion, there is more than one way to run a tank, that’s just what I’d do. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

As always great stuff. List has been updated.

Could you elaborate more on the importance of the salt mix and why the salts you suggested with the lower dkh would be more beneficial to me rather than the higher stuff?

Also what does a good clean up crew consist of for a tank this size?

I plan on beggining to order a lot of stuff tonight.


Biocube 32 Gallon

Stock list (4-6 compatible fish from the list):

2 Pink skunk Clownfish OR 1 Chromis

1 Firefish Goby OR Purple Firefish OR Scissortail Dartfish

1 Yasha White Ray Shrimp Goby OR Dracula Goby OR Hi Fin Red Banded Goby OR Lawnmower Blenny OR Diamond Watchmen Goby OR Orange Stripe Prawn Goby

1 Harptail Blenny OR Tail Spot Blenny OR Two Spot Bimaculatus Blenny OR Smith's Blenny

1 Flame Hawkfish

1 Blackcap Basslet OR Chalk Bass

1 Aiptasia Eating Filefish OR Whitespotted Pygmy Filefish OR Radial Filefish

1 Banded Possum Wrasse

Clean up crew.


Corals:

Toadstool coral

Green Star Polyps

Pulsing Xenia

Mushroom Corals

Torch coral- to be purchased once tank matures


Upgrades:

Media Basket- Intank media baskets (Filter floss, Chemipure blue, marine pure cubes OR liverock)

Protein Skimmer- Aquamaxx NF-1

Heater- Cobalt Aquatics Flat Neo 150w

Powerhead- Nero 3, Sicce voyager

Heater Controller- Inkbird wifi

Thermometer

Refractometer

RedSea Marine Care Test Kit

Fritz PRO R.P.M. Saltwater Mix

Aquarium Cleaner- Flipper

Rock Apoxy- Instant Ocean Holdfast

Appreciate any suggestions and thanks for all the help!

 

[ilikefish69]

Hello all! Just joined the forums and am excited to be here.

So I am taking the plunge (pun intended) into Saltwater Aquariums with something simple, but still want to do it right.

For context I have kept several freshwater aquariums in the past, but it's been 10+ years since I had the time and space to keep another. Figure I would go saltwater this time.

For my first time I am going with the Fluval Saltwater Flex 32.5 Gallon. Its a good size, it has a lid for all of the random particulates in my house, and seems to be begginer friendly.

My big questions are what are the best upgrades to buy with this model?

Heater? Skimmer? Additional lighting? Whatever those little side fans are inside the tank that I keep seeing in people's tanks? Lol yeah that's how new I am. Please let me know any and all upgrades I should order with this badboy.

Appreciate any help and if anyone can point me at any good Saltwater Tank 101 threads I would appreciate it.

Been doing a bunch of research, but can never have too much.

Here is a tentative stock list. Let me know your thoughts/changes:

2 Pink skunk Clownfish OR 2 Chromis

1 Firefish Goby

1 Splendid Dottyback OR Orchid Dottyback OR Blackcap Basslet

1 Lawnmower Blenny

1 Aiptasia Eating Filefish

Also any thoughts on begginer corals would be awesome.

Cheers and thanks!

Get clowns over chromis - clowns are waaaaay more fun.
Dottybacks are mean - I tried one and had to take it back
Nothing happens fast, and if you rush it then you'll just be mad you did later on.
Have good flow, and seed your tank with a piece of oceanic live rock.
Can't speak to the tank recommendations - I would say go big or go home, 150 gallon starting point. YOLO.

Seriously though welcome to the forums you have come to the right place to begin your adventure

 

[Mark Bradley]

As someone who moved from malawis to a reef aquarium I think the most important thing I found was a LFS that gives great advice on the equipment/upgrades and stock. I bought my set up from a different shop and struggled initially based on their advice or rather lack of. Having found a different LFS (Living Reef) I have upgraded the lighting, changed the skimmer, added a phosphate reactor and dosing kit. My 170 is Redsea as are my lights and doser. My skimmer Nyos. I’ve never had a problem with the ATO that came with the tank - albeit I was advised to make the hole bigger which solved some initial issues. My tank is now 2 1/2 years old and going great - I work to keep the water very consistent.

 

[Mark Bradley]

As someone who moved from malawis to a reef aquarium I think the most important thing I found was a LFS that gives great advice on the equipment/upgrades and stock. I bought my set up from a different shop and struggled initially based on their advice or rather lack of. Having found a different LFS (Living Reef) I have upgraded the lighting, changed the skimmer, added a phosphate reactor and dosing kit. My 170 is Redsea as are my lights and doser. My skimmer Nyos. I’ve never had a problem with the ATO that came with the tank - albeit I was advised to make the hole bigger which solved some initial issues. My tank is now 2 1/2 years old and going great - I work to keep the water very consistent.

My water changes are done using natural seawater - not that expensive and very easy giving my LFS has it.

 

[Kiboshed]

As someone who moved from malawis to a reef aquarium I think the most important thing I found was a LFS that gives great advice on the equipment/upgrades and stock. I bought my set up from a different shop and struggled initially based on their advice or rather lack of. Having found a different LFS (Living Reef) I have upgraded the lighting, changed the skimmer, added a phosphate reactor and dosing kit. My 170 is Redsea as are my lights and doser. My skimmer Nyos. I’ve never had a problem with the ATO that came with the tank - albeit I was advised to make the hole bigger which solved some initial issues. My tank is now 2 1/2 years old and going great - I work to keep the water very consistent.

Sadly not an option for me.

I live in Casper Wyoming, only supplier of saltwater stuff near me is Petco and no way will I be taking their advice. Lol

Closest dadicated aquarim shop to me is probably down in Denver

 

[Kiboshed]

So so so excited!

Put in the order for all of this today:

-Biocube 32 Gallon
-8x Nature's Ocean Live Nutri-Seawater
-InTank Media Basket
-Poly Filter Floss Pad 4 X 8"
-Chemi Pure Blue Nano - 5 Pack
-Marine Pure High Performance Biofilter Media GEMS (3.2 oz)
-MCP Test Kit Marine Master Care - Red Sea
-Salinity Refractometer

Petco:
6x Live Rock
20lb Live sand

Petco is my only option for Live Rock & Sand and they only have two dry live rocks in stock currently. The rest I have to buy from their tanks already covered with critters.

Going to buy the protein skimmer, powerhead, and heater in the next paycheck.

Going to let it run with the listed gear for 6-8 weeks, measuring parameters every day to see how the cycle is going. If it stays steady for 4 weeks I might add fish early.

Thoughts?

Going to be a good start for a few years then after that it will become a solid quarantine tank for something bigger and more custome.

 

[steveschuerger]

So so so excited!

Put in the order for all of this today:

-Biocube 32 Gallon
-8x Nature's Ocean Live Nutri-Seawater
-InTank Media Basket
-Poly Filter Floss Pad 4 X 8"
-Chemi Pure Blue Nano - 5 Pack
-Marine Pure High Performance Biofilter Media GEMS (3.2 oz)
-MCP Test Kit Marine Master Care - Red Sea
-Salinity Refractometer

Petco:
6x Live Rock
20lb Live sand

Petco is my only option for Live Rock & Sand and they only have two dry live rocks in stock currently. The rest I have to buy from their tanks already covered with critters.

Going to buy the protein skimmer, powerhead, and heater in the next paycheck.

Going to let it run with the listed gear for 6-8 weeks, measuring parameters every day to see how the cycle is going. If it stays steady for 4 weeks I might add fish early.

Thoughts?

Going to be a good start for a few years then after that it will become a solid quarantine tank for something bigger and more custome.

Hi there and welcome the salty way. My first tank was the 16 gal BioCube. Nice little tank(it now is a pea puffer tank). As far as your equipment list goes I’d say not to bother with the skimmer. For a tank that size weekly water changes should be enough, unless you’re planning on stocking it extra full with livestock. And at least 30 lbs live rock as it’s your biological filter so to speak. Get a biologic starter like Dr. Tims One and Only or Seachem Stability. It’ll help seed the aquarium with bacteria and shorten your cycle.

 

[Kiboshed]

Hi there and welcome the salty way. My first tank was the 16 gal BioCube. Nice little tank(it now is a pea puffer tank). As far as your equipment list goes I’d say not to bother with the skimmer. For a tank that size weekly water changes should be enough, unless you’re planning on stocking it extra full with livestock. And at least 30 lbs live rock as it’s your biological filter so to speak. Get a biologic starter like Dr. Tims One and Only or Seachem Stability. It’ll help seed the aquarium with bacteria and shorten your cycle.

Dr. Tims/Seachem Stability. Got it!

Knew there was some kind of starter fluid I probably should put into the tank.

Glad the protein skimmer is on the back burner for now.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[Breadbox]

I see that you've already bought your stuff, but I'd like to pitch in and say that Long tank(Flex) gives you alot more useable space than cube tank for the same volume of water.

Yes, the cover and back chambers of fluval flex is a massive pain in the butt, but once you figured it out, the benefits of longer tank are apparent. More horizontal space means you can fit more rocks, corals while inverts and fishes have more useable space, I've found that fishes use horizontal space much and generally spend way less time in the upper water column where less rock cover is present.

 

[steveschuerger]

I see that you've already bought your stuff, but I'd like to pitch in and say that Long tank(Flex) gives you alot more useable space than cube tank for the same volume of water.

Yes, the cover and back chambers of fluval flex is a massive pain in the butt, but once you figured it out, the benefits of longer tank are apparent. More horizontal space means you can fit more rocks, corals while inverts and fishes have more useable space, I've found that fishes use horizontal space much and generally spend way less time in the upper water column where less rock cover is present.

This . One other thing, not mentioned is territory space. Many fish have discreet territory preferences. And the longer tank will make it more likely there won’t be deathmatches if you get fish that disagree with each other. I’ve got clowns, a yellow tail damsel and splendid Dottyback (as well as few others including a mandarin) in the 30 long that I have. Couldn't do that in a cube probably. Some eye candy below.

 

[Breadbox]

This . One other thing, not mentioned is territory space. Many fish have discreet territory preferences. And the longer tank will make it more likely there won’t be deathmatches if you get fish that disagree with each other. I’ve got clowns, a yellow tail damsel and splendid Dottyback (as well as few others including a mandarin) in the 30 long that I have. Couldn't do that in a cube probably. Some eye candy below.

Why did you do maintain in a small reef? I'm thinking about doing it and could use some advice .