Build Thread 10 Gallon Nano (will become QT after later upgrade)

Razorbacks

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I'm about 90 days into my first salt water tank. I've always been interested but the expense and complexity kept me from trying before. However, when I researched this last time, the process seemed much more approachable. I’ve never been very interested in a large tank and I feel like everything I used to read pushed everyone to go as large as possible. However, the attitude seems to be changing a little with nanos more prevalent and I took inspiration from Inappropriate Reefer's 10 gallon budget build on YouTube and Reef Builders 1 day 20 gallon nano build covered by Jake Adams. I spent about 3 weeks straight reading every day for hours until I finally bought anything. I wanted to document my build as best I can to hopefully help others make some decisions. As with anything, I'm just just one data point. I'm not saying my decisions were the right ones but they worked for me despite going against some of the more common advice that I've seen.

The Tank: I was very close to pulling the trigger on an Innovative Marine 20 gallon AIO after doing my research. However, when I started adding up all the bare minimum expenses beyond the tank itself the price tag was quickly over $1,000. Being brand new to this, I couldn’t justify it even if I could afford it. Then I got an idea. What if I built out a small, quality QT setup but used it as my display tank until I was ready to purchase something larger? This is exactly what I did with a 10 gallon PetCo tank. Here are the advantages I see to going this route:
  1. Avoid upgrade issue by guaranteeing an upgrade. Conventional wisdom seems to be that everyone upgrades from their first tank if they go too small and they are then out a bunch of money so go big day one to save money. This makes sense but you could still guess wrong and upgrade so why not get started today and as you keep learning you’re more likely to determine your optimum tank size by figuring out your ideal stocking list. You’ll be less likely to guess that second tank size wrong when you know more.
  1. Save money. Now some may argue based on the above that I’ve “wasted” money on this tank setup, but in reality I needed a QT so it was going to be a cost either way. Plus if I bailed from the hobby my sunk costs are now lower. With this route I’m simply utilizing the QT I was going to buy sooner and getting more use out of it. I feel it also saves money by eliminating that “empty tank” feeling of a big initial tank with no fish or corals. Because fewer fish can live in a smaller setup my options are slimmer and there’s less impulse to buy. Similarly, with frags there is less temptation to buy a large colony because you don’t have the space. You can buy small frags for less and watch them grow without the tank looking empty. When the time comes to upgrade that new tank won’t look as empty either if you have corals nicely growing and thus it will cost less to fill the larger tank.
Stable water parameters seem to be the other main argument for going large day one. You have more margin for error. Again, this makes total sense. However, I took inspiration from Jake Adams’ build and I’ve put a lid on my tank. This seems to be an unpopular choice, but I haven’t really figured out why. It hasn’t bothered me at all aesthetically and it’s very functional. The reduced evaporation rate keeps my salinity in check without the cost of an ATO. I only use about a gallon of water a month for top offs. This also keeps me from being strongly compelled to buy a home RODI unit day one which seems to be getting pushed lately as a smart move. I also followed his and others advice about feeding lightly which I think goes a long way to preventing issues.

Lastly, so I would actually have something to QT my corals, I bought a cheap $10 plastic tub that will just be used to store my other gear after I’m done using it as the QT. The equipment for this is my emergency power outage sponge filter that runs on USB and my backup heater so no funds wasted here either.

Tank Components:
Tank: PetCo 10 Gallon with glass lid
Filter: AquaClear 50
Heater: Eheim 75 watt
Rock: Marco Rock 6.3lbs (I bought 10 but it was too much)
Sand: CaribSea Ocean Direct Caribbean Live Aquarium Sand 10lbs

Stocking List: 2 Ocellaris clownfish, one cleaner shrimp.

I realize longer term the ocellaris may prefer a slightly larger tank as they get larger, but they’re doing fine for now. I did a “fish in” cycle with the ocean direct sand and never added any other product in terms of starter bacteria. Despite frequent monitoring and even adding a Seachem Ammonia Alert as a backup measure, I’ve never seen any spike in ammonia. I added the shrimp 77 days in which was a few weeks after the first light green algae started to appear in the tank and he seems to be doing well and has already molted. I also ordered and added copepods to the tank based on the recent BRS series showing their value. I’ve seen no diatoms so far.

I also have 5 corals in QT which I've dipped in Coral RX and plan to dip in a hydrogen peroxide dip at a later date. I have a A029 AquaKnight light on them. Coral list:

Green Star Polyp
Pulsing Xenia
Hammer Coral
Candy Cane/Trumpet
Favite (War Coral)
 
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Razorbacks

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The photos are from different points in time. The light is on the QT right now vs the display in one photo. Also, I haven't bought a filter yet for my phone so forgive the poor quality on the one with the light on.
 
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Fun project :) If you treat fish quarantine as mostly an observation period, I agree having a second display is the best way to go.

Concerning glass lids, they aren't popular in saltwater for a number of reasons. They trap heat (sometimes good, often bad), block light and hinder gas exchange. Not necessarily issues with a lightly stocked, low light tank, but a tank with strong lights and heavy stocking would not appreciate it.
 
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Razorbacks

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Well to be clear I won't maintain the second display after I upgrade. I'll move the rock, livestock, etc. to the new tank and store the empty 10 gallon. However, I like that I'll have a nicer looking tank for QT than the plastic bucket because I can treat it as a second display when needed and will be less tempted to skip or shorter QT's.
 
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Reflections and Learnings 8 Months In

Ouch. It's a painful time period. I lost my cleaner shrimp a few months ago and just a few weeks ago one of my clowns. All but one piece of my original coral is gone. Some struggled from day one (Xenia and GSP strangely) while others were doing fine until hair algae crowded them out and smothered them. Algae is not exactly running rampant in the tank or anything, but specifically the frag plugs and my counter measures did not work. I've failed a lot despite my best efforts.

Looking back I'm so glad I took the start small approach because it limited the losses. My biggest mistake was listening too well to the prevailing message right now of feeding less and it was the direct cause for my fish and invert losses. I realize now they starved and I didn't even see it happening because I was feeding, but just far too little. Additionally, the low levels of nutrients impacted the corals as despite hanging on for a long time and some even looking ok until the hair algae issue, I never saw any growth. My theory on tank size was correct for me. I'm so glad I did not buy the IM20 because it's not quite big enough for my ideal stocking list that I've now figured out. Also, I've been completely happy with the cheap PetCo tank.

I'm pressing on. Planning to pickup a replacement clown this weekend and start QT with Copper Power and Prazzi. I'm keeping an eye out for the next PetCo tank sale so I can get a 20L as I would like to get a royal gramma and eventually a 4th fish. Right now I'm thinking a Hector's Goby or a diamond goby. I've also purchased some more GSP and Xenia. The GSP for close to a week was having the same problem as the last where it just would not open, but I seem to have corrected that with additional flow to the tank.
 
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iamacat

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I found your build thread, obviously, but you can add the link to your profile so others can simply click on it to get right to it. Instead of combing through the posts.

first copy the address from your build thread.
tap your avatar and then select Account Details from the drop down menu.

IMG_8737.png

From there scroll down some and paste your link into R2R Tank Thread Link
IMG_8738.png

You will then get this when posting anywhere
IMG_8739.jpeg
 

iamacat

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Distilled
While I have read about many people having success with using distilled water in nanos, I also know there are negatives to it.

A possibly extinct issue was copper pipes used in the distillation process leaching into the water.

the pH of distilled water has also been found to be slightly acidic with a pH of 7.0 or less. This could for sure be an issue for your shrimp. Did you notice issues after topping off your tank with the Distilled water? Without the assistance of the minerals and pH boost of the salt you use, it might drop the pH in your small system, especially if you find yourself topping off large amounts.

I found this article, now I don’t know Carol and her sources are not listed, however I have heard about all that is discussed in this article.
https://aquariumsphere.com/can-distilled-water-be-used-in-a-saltwater-aquarium/

I think you have made good adjustments to your system, but I think there are issues with the source water. To me this is making sense to the issues you are having. Let me know if any of the things you are seeing line up
 
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Razorbacks

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I don't believe the distilled water is the issue. I did considerable research on others going that route before I made the decision. I never found any credible sources questioning the safety/quality. Most arguments against it were because it's more expensive and a hassle but for me water costs aren't too high. With a glass top I don't have to use much for top off just small amounts at a time. Also, I get it delivered with groceries so it's been super convenient. No issues with PH swings. I have a Hannah digital PH checker I use pretty regularly and don't see much more than a .2 variance between high and low (8.2 to 8.4). However, I'll likely buy a home RODI unit in the near future because now that I'm doing larger and larger water changes to fight these issues the value proposition of a home unit is there.

I tried to go the low to no water change route for the first several months of my journey and I honestly think that's another big factor. While I've been doing large consistent water changes for months now I think I'm still paying for that early poor call. The sand bed likely built up a lot of organics that had a delayed hit. I didn't have a lot of light on the tank the first several months as I waited to add corals. So once I added them and the light it probably set everything off. Plus I intentionally vacuumed the bed all at once a few months back and I've read that's another no no. I never really saw any of the "uglies" people describe in the early months of my tank, but seems like I'm going though them now much later. I just figured they'd blow over after a few months at most...hoping this improved aeration/flow and extra nutrient export piece was the last key....we'll see. Really appreciate your input.
 
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Tank Update:

I've probably dumped $400+ on the tank over the last few weeks. The biggest piece being I broke down and sprung for a PAR meter. Glad I did. I was running my lights multiple levels too low for my corals. I've increased one level and will hold for a while before moving further to ease the corals into the proper range.

Tanks seem stable for now. I had no further deaths after the trochus. I never did run Cuprisorb, but I ran some carbon for a few weeks and also a little polyfilter on top of it for a week or so. I've run an airstone 24/7 since the deaths and I'm convinced O2 was a big issue. I say this because the clown even now with improved levels still goes to the surface after lights out and stays there until lights on. I think it's learned behavior that will take him a long time to reverse. He isn't just near the surface but as far up as possible.

Yesterday my protein skimmer came in so I finally pulled the airstone. I purchased the Bubble Magnus MiniQ. I had to trim the aqueon tank lip to make it fit but that was easy. Since my nutrients are still near 0/0 I am leaving the skimmer plug open and allowing it to go back into the aquarium. I'm mainly just interested in the aeration for now, but it will be great down the road when my nutrients are higher.

Nutrients are still low. I upgraded test kits for nitrates to see that I'm not at complete zero just lower than API could detect. My phosphates are still at absolute zero though with the Hannah ULR checker. I dosed some Neophos but still read zero 24 hours later with ULR checker. I'll probably try dosing them again, but had to order more tests. I've also started adding some Microbacter Clean to help with the nuisance algae and feeding my corals some reef roids a few days a week.

I was able to improve tank flow a bit by moving one one powerhead to the opposite side. I didn't realize how much that would help vs both on one side.

I plan to upgrade to a 20 gallon around July or whenever they go on sale. Luckily everything I have will scale for that.

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