Fitting 12+ corals on a limited space aquascape (list & photo map)

Ulmo

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This is a topic where it is difficult for me to ask for advice, as there are broad variables already covered extensively on the forums along with opinions and experiences to be considered... Coral placement.

Went to order a few coral frags yesterday and got carried away, this is what I ordered:
tsa2.jpg tsa1.jpg

Background and basic parameters:
Tank has been running about 20 months, but I've been hesitant to stock up corals. Partially due to high nutrients and regular gha growth, but also due to feeling great uncertainty about coral placement and my husbandry readiness. I finally got serious about bringing nutrients down recently (currently around 0.1 phosphate, 30 nitrate, I plan on loosely maintaining around .07 phosphate, 20 nitrate).

PH and Alkalinity usually in the 8.1-8.3 range (sometimes Alk a little higher). I auto-dosed Tropic Marin Balling for a long time, but recently switched to ESV B-Ionic 2 Part so that DIY Nopox could have a dedicated reservoir and pump instead of mixing with Balling Part C that limited my ability to make changes without calculations and re-mixing.

I run a single Kessil A360X on a 12-ish hour cycle with a long ramp up/down. Usually don't like to peak higher than 21% intensity, but if others with this light tell me I need to go higher for SPS, will certainly do that.

Flow is from 2 gyre units (2Ks) mounted vertically at back pointed straight forward currently, and of course the return nozzle which hits the top rock fairly directly.

Aquascape notes: I used superglue and sand/crushed rock to cement the entire main structure (dry Marco Shelf + STAX) solidly together and to a large acrylic base plate under the sand, so no major changes will be done. Liverock (KP and Aussie) was added in 2021 but just rests on top of the solid aquascape, so those pieces can be moved or kicked down to sump (where much already resides).

On to the map (there are more photos in my build thread for some slightly different viewing angles):
DSC_0105e.jpg

This is what I am currently thinking per spot:
Vendor recommended flow-light requirement in parenthesis

#1) Icy Vein Favia frag (med-med) / This platform is an island separated by 4-6" of sand and water from the nearest point on the main structure. I read that favia are aggressive with their feeders and I'm hoping its growth can cut a large swath from the GSP that I somewhat regret giving that much space to. The GSP has grown over a couple ~3" rocks on the platform that I can cut off and expose bare rock, and hopefully provide me with a lifted edge to peel/scrape off more. See also spot #9, where I was thinking about putting the torch coral I've had for over a year, but maybe I should reverse those placements?

#2) Blueberry Stylo frag (med-med) / There is a lower platform that is hidden in the photo behind the GSP island. I can mount low (3-4" from sandbed) or a bit higher (5-7") by removing or keeping a piece of liverock there. This area could potentially get the most flow by turning the gyre more directly toward it. Light wouldn't be as intense as the highest rock (#4), but would give it room to grow vertically.

#3) Purple Stylo frag (high-high) / This is a cantilevered shelf that has a piece of liverock on it currently that can be removed to gain more headroom.

#4) ORA Bird of Paradise frag (high-high) / These seem to grow wide and low like a birdsnest, so seemed like it could work in that highest area of the tank without getting to the waterline too quickly. I also considered putting one of the monti frags here for potentially even less vertical growth, but worry about shading and using up the piece of real estate with the highest light and good flow from return nozzle.

#5) Red Dragon Acro frag (high-high) / Small platform that buys it a little extra headroom and distance from the bird on the larger top section

#6) Green Hammer frag (med-med) / The torch coral is in this spot currently and seems to be doing ok (it lost one of it's heads after a year of being on the sand, so I tried that relocation to see if remaining head would be happier)

#7) Rainbow Yuma frag (low-low) / Seems like they would be ok with this fairly vertical and partially shaded section?

#8) Firefly Zoa frag (low-low) / This is a piece of liverock that has a better angle for getting the light down low, can also be moved if they start spreading too close to corals above

#9) Torch coral (med-med) / Still thinking on this one, as it may be partially shaded in this spot, but I'm hoping it would get aggressive towards the GSP and stop the spread down the front side of the island

#10) Death Spiral Monti (med-med) and Red Monti cap frag (low-low) / May be too tight of an area for the species, but it's one of the only places I don't need to worry too much about shading (don't have plans to put coral on sand there). I considered putting one at the point in front of #4-#5, but worried trimming would become too much (for me and the coral) to keep it growing in suitable directions without interfering with others.

Closing:
I know it's a big and vague ask, but does anyone see any major mistakes in these ideas? Improvements that can be made?
 
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blaxsun

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Place all your SPS near the top (as high as you can). Give the montis a good location where they can expand and grow (I have one now the size of a saucer that started out the size of a quarter just over a year ago).
 
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Ulmo

Ulmo

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I received and introduced the coral shipment on April 12th. Got out the frag rack, but ultimately decided to glue them to the rockwork right away and run the acclimation program on the Kessil A360X.

I put the corals in the spots as mapped in earlier post, with the exception of the favia currently still being on the sandbed as I'm afraid of putting it too close the GSP forest, which is my ultimate placement goal for it. Another exception is the spiral monti frag, which went between #5 (acro) and #10 (red monti), due to the seller indicating it required more light and flow than the red cap.

Created a new light program with higher numbers than I've ever run previously, and before introducing corals, started an 18 day acclimation program beginning at 13% intensity.

Final light program looks as attached, slow ramp up/down, peaking at 89% intensity for only a few minutes.
Screenshot_20230429-154932.png Screenshot_20230429-154909.png


Still one day left in the acclimation program (94%), so today's peak was 84%, but I've been impatient to take some PAR readings. Got the Seneye out today (didn't want to rent or spend more than that on a better par meter) and the following are the average readings I was getting near each location at peak intensity:

DSC_0109-par.jpg



Those numbers were higher than I was expecting, even factoring possible boosts from the Kessil 55-degree reflector and having the mesh lid off during readings

In only the last week or less, some issues are starting to present themselves in the frags. I am not sure if it is because the light is becoming too intense nearing the end of acclimation, or other issues with my tank.

Alk has been higher than ever before, 9-9.5. Not sure if that is related to increased light or something else. For over a year I was dosing 10ml/day, and Alk stayed steady around 8. Have stepped the dosing down a few times lately hoping to see the test results start dropping. Currently at only 3ml a day, but Alk still at 9 or a little over.

Nitrates have been around 20 since corals were added, with little fluctuation. Phosphate has been testing between 0.05-0.1 depending on the time of day and what feedings have looked like.

Algae has also been growing at a faster rate than when lights were low, as expected. Manual removal and scrubbing continues to be exercised. Wish the urchin would stop clearing out the coralline that wants to take over but can't get a major foothold as he always goes for that first.


Coral Observations:

#1) Icy Vein Favia frag (med-med) / color has improved since arrival, and tissue seems to be growing down the sides of the tall skeleton of the sheared frag. haven't seen sweepers out beyond a few millimeters, but I also haven't checked after lights out.

#2) Blueberry Stylo frag (med-med) / seems to be doing good, vivid color and full PE every day, but no noticeable growth (not surprised being so early). lots of hair algae growing near it that is a pain to remove without bumping the frag.

#3) Purple Stylo frag (high-high) / seemed good for the first couple weeks, decent color and full PE. Now in the last week I've noticed the flesh starting to turn pale, and PE starting later in day and not as complete. I wonder if the PAR is too high, or the flow too low, will need to do some experimenting.

#4) ORA Bird of Paradise frag (high-high) / this frag arrived broken off from a very thick glue base on the plug. I was worried it was DOA, but I glued it back to the plug. The thin base has been white the entire time up to where it splits into two branches. PE and color on the branches looks good, especially near the top.

#5) Red Dragon Acro frag (high-high) / had remained the same red color since arrival, but have not seen any PE, except maybe tiny bumps that may be my imagination (also haven't checked after lights out). there was one day I got home from work and found it on the sand, the glue on the plug released. Not sure how many hours it was there, but I glued it back that night. Now in the last two days I've started seeing areas of lost tissue on a shaded side, looks like STN (or would it be RTN because it happened so quickly?).

#6) Green Hammer frag (med-med) / seems good, maybe has grown since introduction. The polyps at times look much more inflated/puffy than when it was introduced, also some on the underside are occasionally droopy. worried the near 200 PAR might be too much for it

#7) Rainbow Yuma frag (low-low) / had an issue while cleaning detritus with a powerhead, it became a sail and released the plug from the glue, but was immediately put back into place. it seems to spread out nicely most of the time and has good color and movement. was initially worried about too much flow and PAR hitting it where it is, but I read that it can move itself it it doesn't like the spot, not sure to what extent that is accurate.

#8) Firefly Zoa frag (low-low) / these small number of polyps barely opened the first couple weeks, occasionally peeking out, but for the last week or so more polyps are opening more fully and for larger portions of the day.

#9) Torch coral (med-med) / it bailed out within a day of relocating it to spot #9, was already stressed from previous movement, and I removed it from water and held it upside down to cut frag plug for gluing, probably did it in. tried to put the polyp in a container with holes, but it melted quickly. very sad as I had it over 13 months by that point. left the skeleton in the tank, having read of miraculous seeds being left that later grow back, but not holding my breath.

#10) Death Spiral Monti (med-med) and Red Monti cap frag (low-low) / they looked great with great color until the last few days also, now starting to get some pale spots on the edges.



I only have so much time off of work to deal with troubleshooting and experimentation on top of the already taxing maintenance routines and other life stuff. Don't want to become too pessimistic or defeatist (as we often see in frustrated posts around here), but I am starting to feel like a coral killer. While I don't see myself leaving the hobby entirely, if all or most of these frags die, will probably wait yet another 6-12 months before I try coral again.
 
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Ulmo

Ulmo

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Woke up today to the acro frag having completed RTN, white all over.

Will reduce lighting today to peak at 70% and try that for a while in hopes to save the other SPS frags.
 

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