Fluval 3.0 bta ?

[JoJosReef]

Both the stock lighting and the Marine 3.0 are likely underpowered for BTAs. While the Marine 3.0 is definitely better than the stock light, they are both really just adequate for low light soft corals and LPS. I’m assuming you have the 32w version (unless they make a smaller one?), which on paper seems decent, but you’re not going to be running all channels at 100%. I n top of that, it’s using very low wattage LEDs (likely less than 0.25watts) which comparatively produce far less PAR per watt than larger 3 or 5 watt LEDs. 32 watts of even 0.5 watt LEDs is going to produce much less light than 30watts of high quality 3 watt LEDs (likely much less light than even 15watts of 3watt LEDs). Plus the light is spread out across the tank instead of concentrated into a single point. There are plenty of people here that have used these lights only to replace them because they were inadequate for more light demanding corals/anemones.

I'm in that camp. Had the Marine 3.0 for almost 3 months and now switched to 2 bars eith 3w LEDs and a better distribution of wavelengths: 8/36 LEDs in white and the rest in blue/cool blue/UV.

The light spread in the Marine 3.0 is amazing and the colors are visually appealing--might be a top choice for fish-only tanks.

 

[JoJosReef]

See what he does.
If he stays low on the rockwork, lighting is sufficient.
If he travels upwards, it is not and needs upgrade.
Let him tell you.

Right, but would it be wise to take cues early on? You don't want it losing zooanthellae and shrinking into nothing. Then an upgrade might be too little too late, or do they bounce back well?

 

[Cantusaurus]

I'm in that camp. Had the Marine 3.0 for almost 3 months and now switched to 2 bars eith 3w LEDs and a better distribution of wavelengths: 8/36 LEDs in white and the rest in blue/cool blue/UV.

The light spread in the Marine 3.0 is amazing and the colors are visually appealing--might be a top choice for fish-only tanks.

Hmm yeah. I have the 2 fluval 3.0's on my tank, but honestly I think it is sufficient. My Monti Cap, Birdsnest, and Stylo have all been doing great (even before adding the second one). But yeah I think if someone wants to have anemones, and a lot of SPS they should just buy some other lighting.

 

[JoJosReef]

Hmm yeah. I have the 2 fluval 3.0's on my tank, but honestly I think it is sufficient. My Monti Cap, Birdsnest, and Stylo have all been doing great (even before adding the second one). But yeah I think if someone wants to have anemones, and a lot of SPS they should just buy some other lighting.

Yeah, I was thinking of adding a monti cap and birdnest high on my rockwork with just the one Fluval--Duncan, alveopora and acans were doing great in low/mid level--but ended up changing the lights, because... BTA.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Lighting will not cause an anemone to move but lack of will cause it to shrivel up due to lack of zooxanthellae.
The invertebrates are sensitive to water changes and require pristine conditions to stay in good shape. Failing to meet their needs can result in early death and damage to the tank environment as a whole. Yes, getting caught in a power head is a concern but rarely occurs.
The most important thing you’ll need to take care of before you bring your anemone home is perfecting the tank and water conditions. You should never place a Bubble Tip Anemone into a tank you just set up.
Take some time to get parameters just right and let the closed environment cycle for a few months. This ensures that conditions are stable and safe. Bubble Tip Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quakity test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.

• Water temperature: Between 77°F and 82°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
• pH level: 8.1 to 8.4
• Water hardness: 8 to 12 dKH
• Specific gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
• Nitrate < .5

When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new Bubble Tip Anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Bubble Tip Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic which means that they absorb light to produce food and growth. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms that they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists agree that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone. These creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times but too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Lastly- Feeding.
Bubble Tip Anemones feeding is one of the easiest parts of their care. These animals get food from a lot of different sources. As mentioned earlier, they are photosynthetic and use light to create food. They will also eat food off of the fish they host. These anemones enjoy small morsels of shrimp and squid. They will also accept many frozen foods. To feed the anemone, attach the food to a stick or large tweezers. Then, touch the anemone with it. The creature will use its tentacles to grab onto the food and consume it. twice a week feedings is ample.

 

[leriel99]

See what he does.
If he stays low on the rockwork, lighting is sufficient.
If he travels upwards, it is not and needs upgrade.
Let him tell you.

Nice right now I’m wating on my 3.0 on the mail but I have 3 rbta with the stock light and 2 of them are on bottom of rock the other one(bigger one) is on the milddle of the aqua scape

 

[Uncle99]

Nice right now I’m wating on my 3.0 on the mail but I have 3 rbta with the stock light and 2 of them are on bottom of rock the other one(bigger one) is on the milddle of the aqua scape

Seems perfectly normal.
Too low light would drive him to the top edge.
Good luck