Frag tanks with fish... How do you prevent parasites?

[Cjud7982]

I am in the process of setting up a frag system in order to handle any over flow from my display and to qt any new corals that I bring in. I have been doing a lot of research on whether or not people go fishless or not. People seem to have had success doing both. But more often they keep fish to naturally feed the corals and algae management.

So if you do run a frag tank with fish, how do you guys qt for the 76 days to ensure ich, velvet, etc doesnt make its way into the display? I do have a smaller 11 gallon exclusive frag invert qt tank that I have used in the past specifically for this before I built this new frag system. This tank unfortunately is not big enough for what I have and plan to have. Also idk if I would like to subject the fish to a constant risk or infestation of parasites.

So I think ideally I would go fishless while dosing aminos, and spot feeding lps. I am just looking for input on what some you guys and gals have had experience with.
Or, I could keep the system with fish during propagation, fragging, and growth. Then transfer them to a dedicated fishless tank like I had before for 76 days before going into the display.

Only reason I ask is because I have already spent much of a year a couple years ago treating my fish and fallow periods to keep a sterile tank. The last thing I want is for them to get reintroduced.

 

[Flippers4pups]

QT all fish for observation, treat them as needed for disease or parasites. Once clear, acclimate them to your frag tank water parameters. In they go.

 

[The Aquatic Arsenal]

I would QT them and then treat if neccessary like @Flippersforpups said. How big is your current frag tank?

 

[Cjud7982]

This frag system is made up of 2 50 gallon 2'x4' tanks with a 55 gallon sump. Approx 125 to 135 gallons of water.

Thank for your input on qting the fish for the initial rehousing of the fish. I have absolutely no problems doing that. But when I get a new batch of coral from someone else's tanks, I have no guarantees there are no tomonts on the corals skeletons. So if there are, they will become free floating eventually and latch onto the fish... I can "easily" re plug some corals but some not so easy. And to my knowledge there are no dips that kill these tomonts, unless I am mistaking.

Maybe I am missing something.

 

[danschoenherr]

You are correct. Unless we quarentine everything "wet", we risk introducing something unwanted into our tanks. It is sometimes difficult to remember, but the results can be devestating. We all KNOW we are supposed to quarentine fish, but will throw a handfull of snails in the tank when we see some algae pop up and a week later zoa eating nudis are are munching on your only frag of Jason Fox Bloodshots! A calculated risk you say, but still a risk. I believe a handful of snails were the vehicle that added those little brown flatworms to my tank a year or so ago.....not the dreaded acro eaters, but still something I had to erradicate. So yes, if you want to be 100% sure, everything wet needs to be quarentined, otherwise it is a risk. You can remove the frag plugs...not a bad idea. Inspect all with a magnifying glass.....what I do, but something still may make it through after the dips. Hate to sound so harsh, but I also need this advice from time to time too.

 

[flsalty]

I would go fishless unless you are willing to QT all new corals in a separate QT. You wouldn't have to QT any frags from your display since is presumably pest free.

With the fishless frag tank it can double as a QT for new frags you get from elsewhere. If you want algae control just add some appropriate CUC. You wouldn't even have to QT those first.