Frogspawn. Yesterday looked great this morning seems to half gone??

JAWSIII

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Hi all.
65 DT

water was checked last night 6/21/21 and parameters were:

DKH 10.5
Calcium 430
Magnesium 1600
Nitrate 10-15
Nitrite 0
Amonia 0
Salinity 1.026
Phosphate .03
Ph 8

yesterday the frogspawn looked like the pic with the red circle. And this morning it looks like the the other pics.
Any ideas??

it’s been in the tank for about 4 weeks And always looked good till this morning


327B9750-12D1-47F6-9410-EF6CCFF96657.jpeg
42AC0AE3-39F8-47F3-B0A8-B4E2A239B1F0.jpeg
11C93381-69F6-40A7-B0E6-835DAA5A0C84.jpeg
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Rob.bucek

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10-15 is nowhere near too high for a frogspawn.
IMO it's nowhere too high for most anything (cept maybe an advance SPS only tank). Esp. a beginner tank like the OP's
 
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thepotoo

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They'll open and close all the time. Changes of any kind will annoy them -- chemistry, flow, temperature, light, but also stuff you may not have noticed like a hermit walking over them or a goby spitting sand on them.

I would do nothing, just keep a close eye on the chemistry to avoid any swings and make sure the flow isn't too high or too low on it.

Also, if it dies, don't take the skeleton out, they often bounce back, sometimes even months later.
 
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JAWSIII

JAWSIII

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Thanks for the feedback. Yeah I’m not at all concerned about nitrates at 10-15. That’s actually the lowest I’ve seen them. My nitrates usually run 30-40.

this is what it looks like right now.
34EE1ED2-1AF7-49D3-934E-14F24B6E4AB2.jpeg
 
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mando21

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Thanks for the feedback. Yeah I’m not at all concerned about nitrates at 10-15. That’s actually the lowest I’ve seen them. My nitrates usually run 30-40.

this is what it looks like right now.
34EE1ED2-1AF7-49D3-934E-14F24B6E4AB2.jpeg
How is its flow ? My frog likes
Little to moderate flow and a good amount of light
 

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reefiniteasy

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Also, if it dies, don't take the skeleton out, they often bounce back, sometimes even months later.

Here is an example. Here is a piece of skeleton I had left over from fragging. Look at it now.

A85ED170-DBEF-4445-B825-0CF92D6BF5BF.jpeg
 

Suohhen

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Coral can look bad in the morning. This is especially true with euphyllia as their polyp inflation is so drastic. The blue light definitely makes it hard to see anything and the updated pic looks good.
 
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vetteguy53081

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Mag quite high (should be 1300 range) and salinity getting elevated (best at 1.025). These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, Frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever haphazardly place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
o ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.
Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.

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