As reported elsewhere (see https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/n...-or-coast-to-coast.298745/page-2#post-4133554), the tank I bought from Coast to Coast did not live up to my expectations, and I am currently replacing the bracing. With shipping, it was on order of $6K
I am considering selling it once the re-brace job is finished and ordering a Reef Savvy tank instead. Gauging interest. Tank only, $2600, local pickup in Gaithersburg, MD (20878) only.
As shown below, the tank is 7 feet x 28" wide x 24.5" high. 3/4" starfire on front and both ends. Drilled for a Modular Marine 2-foot overflow. Four return flow holes. One hole in middle, lower portion of rear panel and two holes in bottom for closed-loop. Has additional 4"-long, 1/2"-high strips along the bottom Eurobracing strips, to support a perforated plate above the bottom of the tank to form a plenum. (Plan is to have a reverse-undergravel flow to lift detritus out of the sandbed.) Those could be removed by cutting through the silicone used to attach them.
Originally, tank had double-layer of top bracing. As shown in the linked-to thread, those were butt-ugly float glass, wavy (caused distortion), and silicone between the glass slabs had horrible fissures throughout. So I removed it.
As repaired, there will be a single layer of bracing, 1/2" -thick x 3.5"-wide polished starfire. I am presently attaching 3/4" x 3/4" strips of glass (starfire) along the upper portions of the walls of the tank with black silicone, and the wide bracing strips will then sit down on top and be bonded with black silicone. Thus, the 3/4" x 3/4" strips will fit in the corner/joint between the walls of the tank and the upper, 1/2" x 3.5" slabs of bracing glass. (I presently have installed the 3/4" x 3/4" strips along the front and rear walls of the tank; they are covered with blue tape in the photos below. The black you see on the ends is where I have pre-coated with silicone to get good, uniform appearance through the glass and avoid appearance of trapped air pockets.) In this way, the top bracing strips will be able to "grab" the walls of the tank directly in tension (acting through the corner strips) as well as in shear (acting along the upper edges of the walls, where the wide strips butt up against the edges of the walls).
I've gone to great lengths to get good clean lines along the silicone edges and minimize any spots where there are small air bubbles between the glass and the silicone.
Tank is currently in the garage, where it has sat -- never seen water -- since the day I brought it home.
Please send PM if interested.
I am considering selling it once the re-brace job is finished and ordering a Reef Savvy tank instead. Gauging interest. Tank only, $2600, local pickup in Gaithersburg, MD (20878) only.
As shown below, the tank is 7 feet x 28" wide x 24.5" high. 3/4" starfire on front and both ends. Drilled for a Modular Marine 2-foot overflow. Four return flow holes. One hole in middle, lower portion of rear panel and two holes in bottom for closed-loop. Has additional 4"-long, 1/2"-high strips along the bottom Eurobracing strips, to support a perforated plate above the bottom of the tank to form a plenum. (Plan is to have a reverse-undergravel flow to lift detritus out of the sandbed.) Those could be removed by cutting through the silicone used to attach them.
Originally, tank had double-layer of top bracing. As shown in the linked-to thread, those were butt-ugly float glass, wavy (caused distortion), and silicone between the glass slabs had horrible fissures throughout. So I removed it.
As repaired, there will be a single layer of bracing, 1/2" -thick x 3.5"-wide polished starfire. I am presently attaching 3/4" x 3/4" strips of glass (starfire) along the upper portions of the walls of the tank with black silicone, and the wide bracing strips will then sit down on top and be bonded with black silicone. Thus, the 3/4" x 3/4" strips will fit in the corner/joint between the walls of the tank and the upper, 1/2" x 3.5" slabs of bracing glass. (I presently have installed the 3/4" x 3/4" strips along the front and rear walls of the tank; they are covered with blue tape in the photos below. The black you see on the ends is where I have pre-coated with silicone to get good, uniform appearance through the glass and avoid appearance of trapped air pockets.) In this way, the top bracing strips will be able to "grab" the walls of the tank directly in tension (acting through the corner strips) as well as in shear (acting along the upper edges of the walls, where the wide strips butt up against the edges of the walls).
I've gone to great lengths to get good clean lines along the silicone edges and minimize any spots where there are small air bubbles between the glass and the silicone.
Tank is currently in the garage, where it has sat -- never seen water -- since the day I brought it home.
Please send PM if interested.
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