General cleaning and algae questions

[spamvicious]

My tank is 12 weeks old and is coming out of a diatom bloom. Now I have green algae, every day I’m trying to clean the glass and it just seems to move out round in the water and then stick back to the glass. Is this a pointless endeavour?. Do I need to make changes in the tank?. I’m running an external canister filter with a skimmer (this is also seems to need cleaning every day).

Tank is 135 litres (3 foot long). With two clowns, 1 watchman goby, 1 fire shrimp, 2 hermits, 2 turban snails and a sea urchin. I had about six snails but some died. Do I need more cuc?. I also have some coral frags.

 

[vetteguy53081]

My tank is 12 weeks old and is coming out of a diatom bloom. Now I have green algae, every day I’m trying to clean the glass and it just seems to move out round in the water and then stick back to the glass. Is this a pointless endeavour?. Do I need to make changes in the tank?. I’m running an external canister filter with a skimmer (this is also seems to need cleaning every day).

Tank is 135 litres (3 foot long). With two clowns, 1 watchman goby, 1 fire shrimp, 2 hermits, 2 turban snails and a sea urchin. I had about six snails but some died. Do I need more cuc?. I also have some coral frags.

Reduce white light intensity and the amount of hours of light
Is your tank at or near a window?
Add snails such as astrea, turbo, nerite and nassarius to help with control

 

[Rmckoy]

Depends on nutrient levels . Being close to a outside window could also cause it .

the canister filter might have to be thoroughly cleaned daily as they’re known to harbour nutrients giving them a place for detritus to break down

 

[spamvicious]

My tank is opposite a window but it’s about 12 foot away. Current schedule is 10am to 8pm on the lights. I’m looking to add some more bio media to the canister filter.

Current parameter are below however the alkaline has dropped to 6.7. I’ve buffered with bicarbonate to get it from 4.8 up to 8 using two lots of bicarbonate over a week and today it’s back down to 6.7.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

You have a months long battle in front of you, you should use every strategy possible:
-more CUC
-more flow
-less pellets/flakes and more frozen
-get a hanna phosphate tester and become a phosphate master
-scrub the rocks with a toothbrush during weekly water changes
-personally I would ditch the canister in favor of a HOB, easier to clean and easier to run carbon. I ran a canister for a year, life is easier without it.

 

[spamvicious]

You have a months long battle in front of you, you should use every strategy possible:
-more CUC
-more flow
-less pellets/flakes and more frozen
-get a hanna phosphate tester and become a phosphate master
-scrub the rocks with a toothbrush during weekly water changes
-personally I would ditch the canister in favor of a HOB, easier to clean and easier to run carbon. I ran a canister for a year, life is easier without it.

I have a wave maker and a return pump in the tank. I’ve stopped using flakes and now use frozen. How do you stop all the stuff you remove just staying in the tank?. The set up I bought second has the canister wedged into the cupboard below which makes it hard work. I’ve been cleaning the sand to try get all the food etc removed but I also can’t get nitrate down.

 

[Dan_P]

My tank is 12 weeks old and is coming out of a diatom bloom. Now I have green algae, every day I’m trying to clean the glass and it just seems to move out round in the water and then stick back to the glass. Is this a pointless endeavour?. Do I need to make changes in the tank?. I’m running an external canister filter with a skimmer (this is also seems to need cleaning every day).

Tank is 135 litres (3 foot long). With two clowns, 1 watchman goby, 1 fire shrimp, 2 hermits, 2 turban snails and a sea urchin. I had about six snails but some died. Do I need more cuc?. I also have some coral frags.

Your observations fit within the “normal” range for a new aquarium. What you are seeing is the establishment of a microorganism ecology. Most if not all microorganisms are introduced by stocking the aquarium. Right now there is freeforall going on. Bacteria start occupying the surfaces on day one. Diatoms usually follow in appearance. This happens in nature as well. The green algae is likely a free swimming single cell organism. Overtime different organisms will begin to dominate the biofilm and the green algae and diatoms will diminish in numbers. This goes on for months until the biofilm seems to settle down. You can try the things suggested by forum members in an attempt to influence the development of this ecology. These methods likely only nudge the ecology development, hopefully in the direction you want. Sometimes nudges appear to do nothing.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

you might have heard canisters are sometimes referred to as "nitrate factories", thats what we call them in this hobby. You might be fighting against your canister if you cant get your nitrates down.

Your question "How do you stop all the stuff you remove just staying in the tank?" you mean the window scrapings? You can turn off the pumps, then scoop it out with a net, or syphon that tiny bit out, basically 1-2 litre water change. Personally I just let the glass grow over, and then I clean it on weekends during my water change.

 

[spamvicious]

Your observations fit within the “normal” range for a new aquarium. What you are seeing is the establishment of a microorganism ecology. Most if not all microorganisms are introduced by stocking the aquarium. Right now there is freeforall going on. Bacteria start occupying the surfaces on day one. Diatoms usually follow in appearance. This happens in nature as well. The green algae is likely a free swimming single cell organism. Overtime different organisms will begin to dominate the biofilm and the green algae and diatoms will diminish in numbers. This goes on for months until the biofilm seems to settle down. You can try the things suggested by forum members in an attempt to influence the development of this ecology. These methods likely only nudge the ecology development, hopefully in the direction you want. Sometimes nudges appear to do nothing.

Thanks, I heard introducing coralline algae can help as it can override the other algae is this correct?

 

[spamvicious]

you might have heard canisters are sometimes referred to as "nitrate factories", thats what we call them in this hobby. You might be fighting against your canister if you cant get your nitrates down.

Your question "How do you stop all the stuff you remove just staying in the tank?" you mean the window scrapings? You can turn off the pumps, then scoop it out with a net, or syphon that tiny bit out, basically 1-2 litre water change. Personally I just let the glass grow over, and then I clean it on weekends during my water change.

Yeah I’ve heard that, I am debating whether to try get another second hand tank with a sump and transfer everything over but I don’t know if that would mean re starting everything cycle wise or if it would harm the fish/coral I have.

 

[Dan_P]

Thanks, I heard introducing coralline algae can help as it can override the other algae is this correct?

I have heard the same advice with regards to inhibiting hair algae growth on rocks. I don’t know if it is true. I will have to punt on answering whether it is an effective method.

 

[Uncle99]

You mentioned some posts back a drop in Alk, and while it did not go to far, flux in Alk (and PH for that matter) results in unstable waters which is the perfect environment for pest type algaes. If your alk fluxes more than .5dkh in 24 hours that’s too much.

Get Salinity, Alk and PH pinned with the least change possible, this creates and environment in which the good guy bacteria thrives and in time, outcompetes the pests.

Maintain the correct levels of nitrate/phosphate and their stability.

It will then, go on its own, but feel free to remove as much as possible for a head start.

 

[spamvicious]

You mentioned some posts back a drop in Alk, and while it did not go to far, flux in Alk (and PH for that matter) results in unstable waters which is the perfect environment for pest type algaes. If your alk fluxes more than .5dkh in 24 hours that’s too much.

Get Salinity, Alk and PH pinned with the least change possible, this creates and environment in which the good guy bacteria thrives and in time, outcompetes the pests.

Maintain the correct levels of nitrate/phosphate and their stability.

It will then, go on its own, but feel free to remove as much as possible for a head start.

I’m going to the lfs tomorrow to try work out what the issues with the alk are as I just keep buffering it but it always drops. My salinity and and PH is stable. I’m going to get a test for phosphate but I can’t get the nitrate below 15-20 despite water changes. I think I was over feeding initially so have cut down and swapped to frozen food.

 

[Uncle99]

I’m going to the lfs tomorrow to try work out what the issues with the alk are as I just keep buffering it but it always drops. My salinity and and PH is stable. I’m going to get a test for phosphate but I can’t get the nitrate below 15-20 despite water changes. I think I was over feeding initially so have cut down and swapped to frozen food.

Fourpotential reasons.
1-MG is too low. This can result in inaccurate ALK values.
2-Your nitrates are increasing and depleting ALK.
3-Test kit is inaccurate or has wide flux.
4-Your salt does not match the DT values.

Each of those creates instability, the cornerstone of our systems.

1-2 are the most common.

 

[spamvicious]

Fourpotential reasons.
1-MG is too low. This can result in inaccurate ALK values.
2-Your nitrates are increasing and depleting ALK.
3-Test kit is inaccurate or has wide flux.
4-Your salt does not match the DT values.

Each of those creates instability, the cornerstone of our systems.

1-2 are the most common.

Magnesium is 1260. The nitrates have always been the same number since I cycled the tank. I had a proper test done when first cycled and the nitrate was 18 and is still around that figure. The test kits are correct as used both a Red Sea kit and Salifert kit. I get my ro water and salt water from the lfs. The salt water tested 7.7 before I put it in the tank.

 

[WWC]

I would look to drop the white light down and also the time the lights are running. I would also look into adding a cleanup crew of some snails to help.

 

[Uncle99]

Your MG is too low. It should be 1350-1440ppm.
Do this first, get it up to normal levels.
1260ppm will result in inaccurate tests and precipitation.
Higher MG makes the two less attractive
A stable 18ppm nitrate is fine, I’ve run 16-18 for 5 years.
I would not change that.
7.7 Dkh also fine.

Id just move the MG upwards, then, retest alk.

Again, stability is everything and when water chemistry is stable for long periods, the good guy bacteria outcompetes the pest and that stuff just goes by itself in time.
If waters become unstable, bad guys love that and algae returns.

It the good guys that keep rocks clean, sand white and will consume phosphate keep our corals fed.

Maybe some of that will help you.

 

[Rmckoy]

Thanks, I heard introducing coralline algae can help as it can override the other algae is this correct?

Yea but no .
Coralline algae will grow if conditions are favourable . Bad algae won’t grow on the same spot , but there could be plenty of other areas it can take residence for example .
I have tons of coralline algae . Buy in between patches is occupied by green algae or red cyano
Another example is pumps .
Black plastic seams to be the first place coralline algae grows .

 

[spamvicious]

Your MG is too low. It should be 1350-1440ppm.
Do this first, get it up to normal levels.
1260ppm will result in inaccurate tests and precipitation.
Higher MG makes the two less attractive
A stable 18ppm nitrate is fine, I’ve run 16-18 for 5 years.
I would not change that.
7.7 Dkh also fine.

Id just move the MG upwards, then, retest alk.

Again, stability is everything and when water chemistry is stable for long periods, the good guy bacteria outcompetes the pest and that stuff just goes by itself in time.
If waters become unstable, bad guys love that and algae returns.

It the good guys that keep rocks clean, sand white and will consume phosphate keep our corals fed.

Maybe some of that will help you.

Ah great thanks. So do I just need a supplement of magnesium?. Your tank looks amazing

 

[spamvicious]

Yea but no .
Coralline algae will grow if conditions are favourable . Bad algae won’t grow on the same spot , but there could be plenty of other areas it can take residence for example .
I have tons of coralline algae . Buy in between patches is occupied by green algae or red cyano
Another example is pumps .
Black plastic seams to be the first place coralline algae grows .

Thanks. It’s interesting learning so much especially when everyone has different opinions.