Getting back into the hobby. Here is my plan. All advice and criticism welcome!

[Kalebos]

Due to some life changes a couple years ago I shut down my previous 30 gallon breeder and gave all my coral to my friend for free. In hind site I was too generous (lol). And truth be told I was in the middle of a many months long battle with Dinos that was not going too well, so the release of that headache was actually pretty nice. I have now moved from Vancouver, BC to Dallas, TX. (If any Dallas residents are present I would love LFS recommendations. I've checked one out so far, but was not too impressed.)

Due to space restraints and my beautiful wife I will going with an AIO IM 15G Cube. Also please note that I am trying to do this without breaking the bank. I 100% understand that this is not a cheap hobby. I am saving money where I can, but by no means am I going to cheap out in a way that compromises the tank. I think my plan below is consistent with that sentiment. (Correct me if you disagree)

Equipment Selection:

Powerhead: Jebao SW2
Heater: Already have a couple from previous tanks, but I am open to suggestions. (I don't know the model off the top of my head.)
Light: AI Prime 16. I've looked at other models, but the spectrum and customization options just seem too good for me to get anything else. (Anyone have a used one for sale by chance?)
ATO: Tunze Osmolator Nano 3152 - ATO's scare me, but we travel to visit both of our families, so this will be necessary. This model seems well respected.
Auto Fish Feeder: No idea which model I want yet, but I will get one for the same reason as above. All suggestions welcome.
Rock: I plan on using dry rock. I am open to using live rock from the ocean, but hitchhikers scare me.
Sand: Caribsea

The Plan:

I will setup my aquascape after throughly vacuuming the sand with RODI water. I will then fill with water and add bacteria. (Not sure which one I will use yet. I want diversity so I am considering adding multiple brands, but I am not sure if that will just be overkill.) I will then dose pure ammonia and monitor levels. I plan to be thorough here and do this for at least a month before adding any livestock. I also plan to keep the lights off during this phase.

I do not have much to say about livestock yet. I will get variety of snails of course. I will stick with soft and lps corals and obviously will only be adding a few fish. I plan to add fish and coral very gradually. (I do not have the means of quarantining any fish so I would love recommendations on reliable livestock sources.)

Refugium?!:

I will not be using a protein skimmer. I was wondering if an AI prime would provide enough light to support a macro algae in one of the filter chambers. I think it would be cool to have a mini-refugium back there to potentially support a copepod population on top of exporting extra nutrients. I am not a fan of macro algae aesthetically so I am not willing to put any in my display. Please tell me if this is just wishful thinking.

Final Remarks:

This is my plan so far. I am open to any and all advice. I want to methodically and patiently create a beautiful reef tank. Thank you for reading!

 

[mpatterson42]

Do you have a plan for dosing for the corals?

I don't have any specific criticism but I'd check out the Nano Reefs forum and find something similiar to what you want for ideas, inspirations, and mistakes.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Congrats! It all looks good to me.

I have 4 of the eheim auto feeders, they have been very reliable for the 3 years I've had them.

 

[Kalebos]

Do you have a plan for dosing for the corals?

I don't have any specific criticism but I'd check out the Nano Reefs forum and find something similiar to what you want for ideas, inspirations, and mistakes.

To be honest with you, I never even considered dosing. How crucial would this be once I get a sizable coral population?

 

[Mr Fishface]

Looks like a great plan to me! I've done a mini refugium in a back chamber of my AIO. I want to try it again real soon, can let you know how it goes. Last time I had it too thick and water couldn't get through fast enough and when I thinned I took too much out and it kinda died after that. But I'm ready to try again!

 

[Kalebos]

Looks like a great plan to me! I've done a mini refugium in a back chamber of my AIO. I want to try it again real soon, can let you know how it goes. Last time I had it too thick and water couldn't get through fast enough and when I thinned I took too much out and it kinda died after that. But I'm ready to try again!

That's encouraging to hear! Please do let me know when you try it again!

 

[Tamberav]

I would not bother with a fudge in the chamber or a skimmer. Regular water changes will do the part for nutrient control. The others just impede flow or cause noise.

I didn’t care for eheim on a nano tank, hard to dial in perfectly. If too much drops and you are gone, it could mean a crash. They sell some that you fill each chamber and it feeds an exact portion.

Double check that ATO, I know is has caused issues in the past, the well respected on is the full osmo and not the nano.

Prime is fine.

Innovate marine heaters are expensive but extremely solid and come with a 5 year warranty.

 

[Kalebos]

I would not bother with a fudge in the chamber or a skimmer. Regular water changes will do the part for nutrient control. The others just impede flow or cause noise.

I didn’t care for eheim on a nano tank, hard to dial in perfectly. If too much drops and you are gone, it could mean a crash. They sell some that you fill each chamber and it feeds an exact portion.

Double check that ATO, I know is has caused issues in the past, the well respected on is the full osmo and not the nano.

Prime is fine.

Innovate marine heaters are expensive but extremely solid and come with a 5 year warranty.

Thank you for the tips!

The main reason I want a fudge is to keep a safe place for copepods (and other beneficial critters) to breed. It would be nice to eventually have a self sustaining population. I'm not experienced with this at all though.

 

[ilyad]

Thank you for the tips!

The main reason I want a fudge is to keep a safe place for copepods (and other beneficial critters) to breed. It would be nice to eventually have a self sustaining population. I'm not experienced with this at all though.

The skimmer section of the IM15 wont get enough light in the back compartments to grow anything in the fuge, and thats a good thing... otherwise you would have all sorts of algae back there that would be problematic.

If you are super set on a fuge, they do sell lights that can mount to the back of the tank and light the fuge properly (IM makes one) through the back of the tank. Also, the best light spectrum for macro algae wont be the same as the one you will be running over your tank. That being said, if you have enough rocks in the display, there wont be a need for it as the pods will be all over the rocks unless you get fish that mainly feed on pods (wrasses, etc).

Regarding the ATO, I believe the nano version isnt ideal because it does only have one float switch and it has failed before, I would shell out the extra bucks for the Tunze Osmolator version... especially if you will be traveling and dont need the worry about the ATO failing.

At the start your tank will be fine with mostly water changes for the main components... once its fully grown in, depending on the amount of coral you have with a calicum base (LPS, SPS), you may need dosers for Alk and Calcium. But you can always add that down the line. If you go mostly softies with not too many calcium absorbing coral/critter (clam) you can probably always just get away with water changes and an occasional manual correction.

As for the rocks and sand, if you go with dry versions, it will be fine, but do expect the rocks to be problematic for about a year. It takes a long time for them to finally stabilize, the ugly stage to pass, and a lot of beneficial bacteria to settle. Bottle bacteria works, but a lot of it does not survive in the reef tank for long and it may not be varied enough for what you want. There is seeding rubble rock and sand you can get that seems to do the trick, and you can get it for a reasonable price for a small tank. I would just let the tank cycle first, and once you have fish, whose waste will be a natural food source for the bacteria, add the seeding rubble/sand and it should help establish the rocks and sand. You can do the seeding rubble/sand right away, just make sure there is some sort of food source (very little at first) to ensure the good bacteria doesnt starve out and die.

 

[Kalebos]

The skimmer section of the IM15 wont get enough light in the back compartments to grow anything in the fuge, and thats a good thing... otherwise you would have all sorts of algae back there that would be problematic.

If you are super set on a fuge, they do sell lights that can mount to the back of the tank and light the fuge properly (IM makes one) through the back of the tank. Also, the best light spectrum for macro algae wont be the same as the one you will be running over your tank. That being said, if you have enough rocks in the display, there wont be a need for it as the pods will be all over the rocks unless you get fish that mainly feed on pods (wrasses, etc).

Regarding the ATO, I believe the nano version isnt ideal because it does only have one float switch and it has failed before, I would shell out the extra bucks for the Tunze Osmolator version... especially if you will be traveling and dont need the worry about the ATO failing.

At the start your tank will be fine with mostly water changes for the main components... once its fully grown in, depending on the amount of coral you have with a calicum base (LPS, SPS), you may need dosers for Alk and Calcium. But you can always add that down the line. If you go mostly softies with not too many calcium absorbing coral/critter (clam) you can probably always just get away with water changes and an occasional manual correction.

As for the rocks and sand, if you go with dry versions, it will be fine, but do expect the rocks to be problematic for about a year. It takes a long time for them to finally stabilize, the ugly stage to pass, and a lot of beneficial bacteria to settle. Bottle bacteria works, but a lot of it does not survive in the reef tank for long and it may not be varied enough for what you want. There is seeding rubble rock and sand you can get that seems to do the trick, and you can get it for a reasonable price for a small tank. I would just let the tank cycle first, and once you have fish, whose waste will be a natural food source for the bacteria, add the seeding rubble/sand and it should help establish the rocks and sand. You can do the seeding rubble/sand right away, just make sure there is some sort of food source (very little at first) to ensure the good bacteria doesnt starve out and die.

Thank you for the feedback. This is incredibly helpful. You sold me own the ATO upgrade.

I am strongly considering getting a cryptic wrasse which is why I want a safe space for the copepods. I checked IM's website and could not seem to find the light that you mentioned. Do you have an example that you could link.

You make a strong point with the live rock. So a small amount of established rock/sand that would likely make a significant boost to stabilizing the tank? (100% I will make sure to have a food source for the bacteria at that point)

 

[ilyad]

Thank you for the feedback. This is incredibly helpful. You sold me own the ATO upgrade.

I am strongly considering getting a cryptic wrasse which is why I want a safe space for the copepods. I checked IM's website and could not seem to find the light that you mentioned. Do you have an example that you could link.

You make a strong point with the live rock. So a small amount of established rock/sand that would likely make a significant boost to stabilizing the tank? (100% I will make sure to have a food source for the bacteria at that point)

I had a cryptic wrasse (yellow banded ) in my nano (25 gallon), he's since been moved to my larger 75 gallon. When I had him there without a fuge, it definitely didnt explode with pods, but if I looked close enough, I could always still find a few, and if you can see a few, theres got to be many hidden.

HERE is the light I was mentioning, but any similar light, and possibly cheaper versions could work too. Alternatively, maybe get some media to put in the chamber and dose phyto (food source for the pods and also corals). And alternatively alternatively, you can always grow or buy pod delivery. I would imagine the difference between media (surface space for them to live on) + phyto might produce just slightly less pods than a refugium that size, but then you dont have to worry about keeping the fuge running. At least starting out, start with media and let the population establish, if you want more, you can always covert it to a fuge

And from what I understand, seed rock/sand would do the trick... rubble you'd want t toss around your rocks so the bacteria can transfer to your main structure, sand you just toss on your sand bed, and eventually it'll make its way around. I havent read crazy much into the topic to confirm whether it works 100%, but I have done it myself, and think it helped. THIS is the stuff I used in my tanks. They often show sold out, but add an email notification and I find that they restock about once a month or so.

 

[ilyad]

Later down the line, you can also automate the pod food with a doser. I just bought THIS one (its in the mail right now). The best part about it is its modular so you can expand as you need it. Need only pod food (I use THIS) get one primary and set it up... later if you need to dose Alk, Ca, Mag, or any other additive, you can just get secondary units and add them on.

Personally, I would start slow. Get your tank, light, ATO, and get it going. Then either during cycle, or after get the rubble rock/sand with bacteria. Set up some media in the back chambers for pods to live on, seed it with a good mixed pod delivery to start and let the colony establish. If pods grow and you have enough, you're all set, and just keep doing that. Down the line, if you see that they die off, add the auto phyto (good for pods, good for coral). When you get fish, get a good auto feeder. Then later add more dosers to automate your 3 part. I would do this over a 12-18 month period. By then everything should be well established and its all automated. ATO refills evap, auto feeder takes care of fish, doser with phyto and 3 part will auto dose elements and coral/pod food which will be just fine for any extended period you're gone.

 

[Kalebos]

I had a cryptic wrasse (yellow banded ) in my nano (25 gallon), he's since been moved to my larger 75 gallon. When I had him there without a fuge, it definitely didnt explode with pods, but if I looked close enough, I could always still find a few, and if you can see a few, theres got to be many hidden.

HERE is the light I was mentioning, but any similar light, and possibly cheaper versions could work too. Alternatively, maybe get some media to put in the chamber and dose phyto (food source for the pods and also corals). And alternatively alternatively, you can always grow or buy pod delivery. I would imagine the difference between media (surface space for them to live on) + phyto might produce just slightly less pods than a refugium that size, but then you dont have to worry about keeping the fuge running. At least starting out, start with media and let the population establish, if you want more, you can always covert it to a fuge

And from what I understand, seed rock/sand would do the trick... rubble you'd want t toss around your rocks so the bacteria can transfer to your main structure, sand you just toss on your sand bed, and eventually it'll make its way around. I havent read crazy much into the topic to confirm whether it works 100%, but I have done it myself, and think it helped. THIS is the stuff I used in my tanks. They often show sold out, but add an email notification and I find that they restock about once a month or so.

Later down the line, you can also automate the pod food with a doser. I just bought THIS one (its in the mail right now). The best part about it is its modular so you can expand as you need it. Need only pod food (I use THIS) get one primary and set it up... later if you need to dose Alk, Ca, Mag, or any other additive, you can just get secondary units and add them on.

Personally, I would start slow. Get your tank, light, ATO, and get it going. Then either during cycle, or after get the rubble rock/sand with bacteria. Set up some media in the back chambers for pods to live on, seed it with a good mixed pod delivery to start and let the colony establish. If pods grow and you have enough, you're all set, and just keep doing that. Down the line, if you see that they die off, add the auto phyto (good for pods, good for coral). When you get fish, get a good auto feeder. Then later add more dosers to automate your 3 part. I would do this over a 12-18 month period. By then everything should be well established and its all automated. ATO refills evap, auto feeder takes care of fish, doser with phyto and 3 part will auto dose elements and coral/pod food which will be just fine for any extended period you're gone.

This is incredibly helpful!

I will take your advice and hold off on the fudge. Can I ask what you mean by filter media? Are you referring to the media I choose to use in general?

I will also 100% use the rubble. I check out their product and it seems that I do not need to worry about bad hitchhikers. What an amazing product!

By three part dosing I assume you mean calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium?

I have Hanna testers. Would you trust these to base dosing off of?

 

[ilyad]

Can I ask what you mean by filter media? Are you referring to the media I choose to use in general?

More specifically the full name is biological filtration media. Its extremely porous "rock" that allows bacteria to settle on, it functions as both much more surface area for good bacteria to settle, but pods also love to climb around on it. There are tons out there, some people have issues that it may leech impurities or crumble down to a powder. THIS one seems to be least problematic. Also, I would buy or make out of acrylic or eggcrate some sort of basket so if you have to remove it to clean the chamber, you arent pulling out one piece at a time. But you can also add some of your plain rock crumbled into smaller pieces to give hiding spots for the pods.

By three part dosing I assume you mean calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium?

Yep, exactly!

I have Hanna testers. Would you trust these to base dosing off of?

Hanna is generally reliable (except Magnesium, that one is crap), but not all the tests are worth the effort they take to do. For example, Hanna calcium is accurate, but its a complicated multi step test...

I use these for my tests:
Alkalinity - Hanna
Phosphates - Hanna Ultra Low Phosphorous (which you can use a conversion table to get Phosphate levels). They now make ULR Phosphate (they didnt when I got mine).
Calcium - Salifert
Magnesium - Salifert
Nitrate - Salifert
pH - my system has a pH probe, but when I didnt, I used Salifert
Salinity - ONLY this hydrometer. Its lab calibrated to be super exact at 77 degrees (which is what most tanks run at). But there are online calculators to adjust for other temps. Never needs calibration and super reliable (although very fragile, so handle with care). Get a graduated cylinder like this, fill it with 500ml of tank water and float the hydrometer. Then put the water back in the tank. I used both a view and digital hydrometer which needed lots of calibration one was off.

I almost lost all of my fish and coral when it kept reading salinity was correct, but in reality it was super low. I only found out when I sent in a lab test for my water to try to figure out what was going on and it said my salinity was extremely low. Since using the linked hydrometer, never had an issue.

3 part I test about once a week, Phosphates and Nitrates like once a month (unless im dialing in my feeding/dosing or I see something off in the tank. pH like once in a blue moon. And Salinity also rarely once the ATO is dialed in... just to catch any drift that may happen when I sell frags, do water changes, forgot to refill ATO container, etc.

When you get going, start a build thread and document your progress... I for one would like to see how your build comes along. Plus it can work as a good historical reference for yourself on what you've done and changed.

 

[Kalebos]

More specifically the full name is biological filtration media. Its extremely porous "rock" that allows bacteria to settle on, it functions as both much more surface area for good bacteria to settle, but pods also love to climb around on it. There are tons out there, some people have issues that it may leech impurities or crumble down to a powder. THIS one seems to be least problematic. Also, I would buy or make out of acrylic or eggcrate some sort of basket so if you have to remove it to clean the chamber, you arent pulling out one piece at a time. But you can also add some of your plain rock crumbled into smaller pieces to give hiding spots for the pods.

Gotcha! I've never bothered with bio filter media in the past. I will likely just use some extra rock like you mentioned unless you suggest otherwise.

Hanna is generally reliable (except Magnesium, that one is crap), but not all the tests are worth the effort they take to do. For example, Hanna calcium is accurate, but its a complicated multi step test...

I use these for my tests:
Alkalinity - Hanna
Phosphates - Hanna Ultra Low Phosphorous (which you can use a conversion table to get Phosphate levels). They now make ULR Phosphate (they didnt when I got mine).
Calcium - Salifert
Magnesium - Salifert
Nitrate - Salifert
pH - my system has a pH probe, but when I didnt, I used Salifert
Salinity - ONLY this hydrometer. Its lab calibrated to be super exact at 77 degrees (which is what most tanks run at). But there are online calculators to adjust for other temps. Never needs calibration and super reliable (although very fragile, so handle with care). Get a graduated cylinder like this, fill it with 500ml of tank water and float the hydrometer. Then put the water back in the tank. I used both a view and digital hydrometer which needed lots of calibration one was off.

Good deal. I only have Hanna and Salifert tests anyways. I just get sketched out with Salifert because I don't know how much I can trust my eyes.

I've just used a refractometer for my salinity that I calibrate with a control sample. Would you still recommend a hydrometer over this method?

When you get going, start a build thread and document your progress... I for one would like to see how your build comes along. Plus it can work as a good historical reference for yourself on what you've done and changed.

I'm planning on it! You can expect a shout out from me! Thanks again for all of your advice!

 

[ilyad]

1. Gotcha! I've never bothered with bio filter media in the past. I will likely just use some extra rock like you mentioned unless you suggest otherwise.

2. Good deal. I only have Hanna and Salifert tests anyways. I just get sketched out with Salifert because I don't know how much I can trust my eyes.

3. I've just used a refractometer for my salinity that I calibrate with a control sample. Would you still recommend a hydrometer over this method?

4. I'm planning on it! You can expect a shout out from me! Thanks again for all of your advice!

1. Some extra rock should do the trick just fine.

2. Regarding Salifert color changing, its less about identifying the exact measure, and more about consistency. For example, when you change from pink to blue on a test that uses titration for calcium, as long as you note the levels at the the same shade where the color shifts, even if you're not exactly correct, it wont matter much. This way you can still achieve consistent levels, and since your reference point stays consistent, it will let you adjust and be within an acceptable level. For example, lets assume your tanks is actually at 450 calcium but you notice the color change at a point that says its 425, well that 25 doest really matter. And if you keep it at that same 425 (but actually 450), your tank will be happy. Its alway more about consistency anyways, as long as its within an acceptable level. Strive more towards keeping levels relatively stable (as long as in the acceptable range) rather than a specific number.

As for Hanna testers, they also have some acceptable accuracy variance, which means you dont technically know if the results it gives you are true accurate.

3. Personally, I would still use the calibrated hydrometer. For it to be accurate, the refractometer has to have multiple things going for it. One, you actually have to use a true calibration liquid.. as the calibration works best if adjusted around the area where the results are expected. So if you use RO and set to 0, it works, but its going to be less accurate than if you use 35sg solution. If you use a solution, then you have to trust that its accurate and not worry that theres some sort of bad batch. Then you have to factor in temp... most people dont take the time to leave the water sample on the refractometer to temp normalize, that adds variance. So when you add all that together - calibrating at a lower sg, not waiting for temp to neutralize, or the variance in the calibration fluid, all of a sudden there is potential for it to be inaccurate. If you already have a refractometer you can use it, but I would still have the hydrometer towards the top of my "to buy" list. It has way less possible failure/inaccuracy issues, and in the end less things to worry about.

4. Sounds good, hope you enjoy your return to the hobby! Glad I can give you some useful info. Feel free to tag me in the future if you have any questions.

 

[Kalebos]

1. Some extra rock should do the trick just fine.

2. Regarding Salifert color changing, its less about identifying the exact measure, and more about consistency. For example, when you change from pink to blue on a test that uses titration for calcium, as long as you note the levels at the the same shade where the color shifts, even if you're not exactly correct, it wont matter much. This way you can still achieve consistent levels, and since your reference point stays consistent, it will let you adjust and be within an acceptable level. For example, lets assume your tanks is actually at 450 calcium but you notice the color change at a point that says its 425, well that 25 doest really matter. And if you keep it at that same 425 (but actually 450), your tank will be happy. Its alway more about consistency anyways, as long as its within an acceptable level. Strive more towards keeping levels relatively stable (as long as in the acceptable range) rather than a specific number.

As for Hanna testers, they also have some acceptable accuracy variance, which means you dont technically know if the results it gives you are true accurate.

3. Personally, I would still use the calibrated hydrometer. For it to be accurate, the refractometer has to have multiple things going for it. One, you actually have to use a true calibration liquid.. as the calibration works best if adjusted around the area where the results are expected. So if you use RO and set to 0, it works, but its going to be less accurate than if you use 35sg solution. If you use a solution, then you have to trust that its accurate and not worry that theres some sort of bad batch. Then you have to factor in temp... most people dont take the time to leave the water sample on the refractometer to temp normalize, that adds variance. So when you add all that together - calibrating at a lower sg, not waiting for temp to neutralize, or the variance in the calibration fluid, all of a sudden there is potential for it to be inaccurate. If you already have a refractometer you can use it, but I would still have the hydrometer towards the top of my "to buy" list. It has way less possible failure/inaccuracy issues, and in the end less things to worry about.

4. Sounds good, hope you enjoy your return to the hobby! Glad I can give you some useful info. Feel free to tag me in the future if you have any questions.

Alright, I am sold on the hydrometer.

Can I also get your take on cleanup crew? I was planning on going with a 3-5 nassarius, 1-2 astra, and 2-3 cerith snails. I plan to wait a month or two after I add my first fish so that there is enough stuff build up for them to eat.

 

[ilyad]

Can I also get your take on cleanup crew? I was planning on going with a 3-5 nassarius, 1-2 astra, and 2-3 cerith snails. I plan to wait a month or two after I add my first fish so that there is enough stuff build up for them to eat.

Nassarius snails are carnivores and will go for uneaten food that may settle on the sand bed (which is good). So depending on your feeding style, they can be a great addition. If you broadcast feed, those are really good, but if you target feed or toss a few pellets at a time for the fish to get, they may not get enough food. So just depends on how you feed. For a 15 gallon, 3 is probably plenty.

Astra snails are good herbivores, but they do have a tendency to fall on their backs and they have a hard time righting themselves. I have to keep flipping mine back the right way in my tank all the time (but I do keep a few for variety of snails). Id get like 2 for your tank.

A good herbivore snail is a tiger trochus, they can almost in all cases even right themselves. Thats the one I have most of in the tank. For your tank, I would get like 3-5 depending on how much algae you get.

Ceriths are good herbivores and detritivores, but I cant stand the very tiny ones, they are so small they can make their way into wave makers or return pumps and get all chewed up. The bigger certih are great though, and def get a few.

Other good critters to look for that may be a good fit is a tiger conch snail (Strombus), they are great at eating the algae off the sand and sifting it around. 1 is more than enough for a small tank, and I would probably look for a smaller one. Assuming you leave some of your sandbed open, if you dont have enough open space, they may not get enough food. But you can always get a small one and once it gets bigger, swap it out for a small one again.

Micro bristle stars, these are great at getting into tiny nooks and cranies of the rock and are detritivores. You can probably find some really cheap locally, or even free. Start with a handful and they'll self populate in the tank.

Tuxedo urchin, once the tank is more established... They are pretty cool and eat a ton of algae (although they eat coraline algae as well).

In any case, you dont need to get all the snails right away, get a few to start and as the tank establishes and has more stuff for them to munch on, you can add more.