Getting Macro Algae Established

[Nanoreefboi]

Ok, so I have a IM 10 gallon mixed reef. I have been battling very stubborn hair/turf algae for a few months now. Thankfully, With the combination of trochus snails, vibrant, and weekly 1 gallon water changes, I have noticed a major decline in it’s health. It is hardly growing anymore. I do have a decent protein skimmer, but for some reason I couldn’t prevent its growth for a while.

So to the point, I tried some dragons breath macroalgae a few weeks ago, with an IM chaetomax LED. I know that you are supposed to dose nutrients such as chaetogro , which I bought. However I was scared it would fuel the hair algae growth so I did not dose it. So in two weeks the dragons breath’s fluorescent tips started to turn pale, and I panicked and tossed it out before it could leach all of it’s nutrients in my water.

Ok, so my questions: Should I have just dosed the chaetogro from the start? How do I get the macroalgae to start outcompeting the nuisance algae? Is it normal for dragons breath algae to go pale at the tips when first added?

Any input will help, thanks for reading.

 

[Reefing_addiction]

I’m curious as well

 

[ThePurple12]

Macroalgae need higher nutrient levels than nuisance algae, which is why nuisance algae grow well even when you lower your nutrients as much as you can.

Try raising your nitrate, that way the macroalgae will be able to grow.

 

[sixty_reefer]

Dragons breath do stress very easily after transport, going white wouldn’t be a reason to bin it imo

 

[Pistondog]

Ok, so I have a IM 10 gallon mixed reef. I have been battling very stubborn hair/turf algae for a few months now. Thankfully, With the combination of trochus snails, vibrant, and weekly 1 gallon water changes, I have noticed a major decline in it’s health. It is hardly growing anymore. I do have a decent protein skimmer, but for some reason I couldn’t prevent its growth for a while.

So to the point, I tried some dragons breath macroalgae a few weeks ago, with an IM chaetomax LED. I know that you are supposed to dose nutrients such as chaetogro , which I bought. However I was scared it would fuel the hair algae growth so I did not dose it. So in two weeks the dragons breath’s fluorescent tips started to turn pale, and I panicked and tossed it out before it could leach all of it’s nutrients in my water.

Ok, so my questions: Should I have just dosed the chaetogro from the start? How do I get the macroalgae to start outcompeting the nuisance algae? Is it normal for dragons breath algae to go pale at the tips when first added?

Any input will help, thanks for reading.

Only had dragons breath for a while before rabbitfish ate it all.
I recall the new growth was pink.

 

[Tired]

To get rid of pest algae, you actually need to get nutrients up. You have to let competition get established. That competition can be macroalgae, or it can be assorted non-pest species of algae that grow on the rock and interfere with it. Chaetogro is good for macros, yes, and would probably not fuel pest algae too much.

Basically, you need a three-pronged approach. Keep your nutrients reasonable but NOT zero (should never go below 5-10ppm nitrates and 0.03 phosphate, and much higher is perfectly fine), remove long hair algae by hand, and have cleaners to eat the short stuff. If you do that, its competition will naturally get established. Adding macroalgae can help, but you have to be sure to keep the nutrients up, or the macros, helpful microalgae, and corals will all die.

 

[Nanoreefboi]

To get rid of pest algae, you actually need to get nutrients up. You have to let competition get established. That competition can be macroalgae, or it can be assorted non-pest species of algae that grow on the rock and interfere with it. Chaetogro is good for macros, yes, and would probably not fuel pest algae too much.

Basically, you need a three-pronged approach. Keep your nutrients reasonable but NOT zero (should never go below 5-10ppm nitrates and 0.03 phosphate, and much higher is perfectly fine), remove long hair algae by hand, and have cleaners to eat the short stuff. If you do that, its competition will naturally get established. Adding macroalgae can help, but you have to be sure to keep the nutrients up, or the macros, helpful microalgae, and corals will all die.

My nitrates and phosphates test very low, but it could be a false reading due to the remaining hair algae. Also, I sometimes get red Cyanobacteria on my sand bed. Is this because of low nutrients in the water column?

 

[spiraling]

My nitrates and phosphates test very low, but it could be a false reading due to the remaining hair algae. Also, I sometimes get red Cyanobacteria on my sand bed. Is this because of low nutrients in the water column?

Yes cyano, and don't buy into the "I have algae so I have low readings". You have certain algae BECAUSE you have low readings.
Macroalgae uses iodine much more than a reef. I'm not sure whats in chaetogrow but that's probably part of it. Measure and dose for iodine.

 

[MarshallB]

I'm in the same boat. I've had my 125 up for a few months and the chaeto isn't doing great. I have about a baseball size clump in the sump. I'm beginning to think a refug isn't ideal in the first few months of a tank until the tank becomes established and evens out. I over fed for a week, not a ton but more than usual, and the cheato stayed the same but algae in the tank exploded. Perhaps if I had triple or quadruple the amount of macro then keeping nutrients over 0 may be feasible without risking a nasty outbreak.

 

[spiraling]

I'm in the same boat. I've had my 125 up for a few months and the chaeto isn't doing great. I have about a baseball size clump in the sump. I'm beginning to think a refug isn't ideal in the first few months of a tank until the tank becomes established and evens out. I over fed for a week, not a ton but more than usual, and the cheato stayed the same but algae in the tank exploded. Perhaps if I had triple or quadruple the amount of macro then keeping nutrients over 0 may be feasible without risking a nasty outbreak.

It took me about a year to be able to grow chaeto. My n/po was toooo low and it would melt. Its great for nutrient control once you have balanced everything. One thing I was reading today is starting with dry rock it absorbs / emits phosphate until you are in equilibrium. I fought 0 phos, very low nitrate for the year, but now everything is good and I can grow chaeto like no ones business.

 

[Seabiscuit]

You might try looking into your light hours. I am at 8-10 hours a day with minimal hair algae growth. Also try looking into light distance from your light to your tank. Give any changes you make a few weeks to see notable changes.

 

[Nanoreefboi]

You might try looking into your light hours. I am at 8-10 hours a day with minimal hair algae growth. Also try looking into light distance from your light to your tank. Give any changes you make a few weeks to see notable changes.

I don’t think light is the issue for me. I’m running a kessil a80 (not really meant for sps but I have been successful with acropora, millipora, montipora, and green birdsnest.) It’s only on for 8 hours as well, running on full blue.

 

[Angeleyes reefraf]

if anyone is still monitoring this thread i wonder if i can grow any macroalgae in a 20 gall. will be moved to a 36 when the rest of my freshwater fish die off. i have no fish yet. establishing rock and corals first i want the fish to fit the reef. also i havent had any issues yet except nudis that i dipped for. tank is only a couple of months old but has been stable the whole time minus cycling and minor agae blooms after

 

[ThePurple12]

You can, but it'll need some nutrients. You can dose nitrate using Spectracide Stump Remover:



using the calculator here: http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/calculator.htm

You would only need to dose a little bit but could really dose as much as you want for macroalgae.

 

[ThePurple12]

Also, given proper care your freshwater fish should live for many more years

 

[Angeleyes reefraf]

Suggestions on types Looking for a pop of colour maybe red

 

[ThePurple12]

Gracilaria hayi, Halymenia, and some others. Take a look here

Macro Algae: Your Source For Quality Marine Plants and Macroalgae | Gulf Coast Ecosystems

We specialize in saltwater Macroalgae and Seagrass | GCE has the largest selection of Macroalgae online, offering over 35 different species

www.live-plants.com

 

[Subsea]

Suggestions on types Looking for a pop of colour maybe red

<head> <title>Macroalgae For Marine Reef Aquariums: Red Sampler Algae Pack

This red macro algae assortment is our best seller. It includes at least 3 varieties of red macro algae of what is seasonally available at the time you order. We currently collect about 20 different varieties of red macro algae from both the Gulf of Mexico and Atlantic so the assortment varies. An excellent choice for refugiums and planted aquariums to add color and variation.

<head> <title>Macroalgae For Marine Reef Aquariums: Red Gracilaria

We currently collect several different varieties of red Gracilaria from the Gulf of Mexico. These can include parvispora, tikvahiae, cervicornis as well as others. In addition to the numerous species available, Gracilaria also grows in a variety of colors. Tangs and angels like to graze on this species in general. The species we ship depends on the season and availability. Size 1 pint.


Shipping is expensive during covid. While I could not justify $45 for seaweed, Russ also has a collectors license for sponges & gorgonians as well as some CUC options.

 

[Angeleyes reefraf]

Thanks! I'll check all this out.