Giant Clams for Beginners: Beautiful, Hardy & Beneficial

LiveAquaria

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If provided the proper conditions, giant clams are a great choice not only for the beginner reef aquarist but even for the most advanced reef aquarists, offering beauty, biological benefits as well as biological diversity. Proper lighting, water movement, trace elements and placement of the giant clams will ensure the health of these fascinating invertebrates.

aid-117_Crocea_Clam.jpg
The clams of interest are of the genus Tridacna. These beautiful clams include T. maxima, T. crocea, T. squamosa and T. derasa. There is amazing variation in color and pattern within these species, some resembling living pieces of art, making Tridacna clams highly desirable.

Benefits to your aquarium
Besides their beauty, clams provide another important benefit to a saltwater aquarium: natural filtration. Their superior filtering capabilities offer added stability and nutrient control in a closed aquarium system.

Excess nutrients lead to problems with low pH, algae, and cyanobacteria blooms - general poor water conditions that ultimately affect the health of all inhabitants within the aquarium.
Clams constantly filter nutrients such as ammonia and nitrate from the water thereby reducing the biological load and lowering the overall nitrate level in the aquarium, improving water conditions.
aid-117_Maxima_Clam_Multicolored.jpg

Environmental Requirements

Lighting

Proper lighting is the most critical parameter essential to the well being of giant clams. Tridacna clams not only filter nutrients from the water to satisfy their dietary needs, but also employ algae cells within their mantle called zooxanthellae. These algae cells require light as well as nutrients from both the clam and the water to properly photosynthesize. The clam then utilizes the energy the algae cells produced through photosynthesis to aid in its growth.

Clams, therefore, require moderate to high lighting conditions, ideally supplied by reef-compatible LED light fixtures or metal halide fixtures. If using fluorescent fixtures, simply place the clam closer to the light source.

Water Movement
Tridacna clams do not like strong, direct water currents. They prefer moderate, indirect water movement. Strong, direct water movement seems to inhibit the clam's ability to adjust the amount of water passing through it, affecting their ability to properly filter the water.

Trace Elements
The three main trace elements giant clams require are calcium, strontium, and iodine. These elements should be present in the aquarium at or near levels found in nature. Regular water changes and routine supplementation replenish these trace elements. However, if an aquarium is heavily stocked or if aggressive chemical filtration is used, more frequent supplementation may be necessary.

Target Levels for Trace Elements
  • Calcium levels should be maintained between 400 to 450 ppm with a pH of 8.1 to 8.4 and an 8 to 12 DKH. Giant clams use calcium and strontium to build their shells.
  • Strontium levels should be maintained between 6 to 10 ppm. Slightly higher levels of strontium have proven not to be harmful to most invertebrates, but it can encourage unsightly cyanobacteria outbreaks.
  • Iodine levels should be maintained between 0.04 and 0.08 ppm. Iodine helps break down oxygen produced by the zooxanthellae cells and prevents damage due to excessive light exposure, helping the clam maintain their bright coloration. If the clam shows poor coloration, test the iodine level.
Placement
Proper placement within your aquarium is the final aspect to consider when caring for Tridacna clams. After evaluating your lighting system and water movement within the aquarium, choose the proper location for your clam.
  • Place the clam so that the mantle is facing upward towards the light to maximize exposure to light. The mantle must be in full illumination in order to provide the clam with nutrients.
  • If a more powerful lighting system, like metal halides, are used on an aquarium 24 inches or less, these clams can be placed just about anywhere in the aquarium, as long as they are not blocked from the light.
  • If at any time the clam moves and is lying on its side, right the clam back to the upright position. Do this immediately or the clam will slowly starve to death.
  • Do not place the clam in a crevice where it may have difficulty fully opening its shell. Make sure the location is sturdy and offers enough room for the clam to grow.
  • Do not place the clam in an area that has strong, direct water movement.
Aquacultured Tridacna derasa
Tridacna clams are not only some of the most beautiful additions to a reef aquarium, but because of their superior filtering capabilities, they offer added stability and nutrient control to the reef aquarium. T. derasa clams are the best choice out of this genus. They are the hardiest of the Tridacna clams, and will adjust to a wide variety of conditions within most aquariums - making them ideal for beginners.

CLOSE-UP: Aquacultured Tridacna derasa

QUICK STATS:
  • Care Level: Moderate
  • Reef Compatible: Yes
  • Lighting: Moderate
  • Waterflow: Medium
  • Placement: Bottom, Middle
  • Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
  • Color Form: Blue, Brown, Green, Yellow
  • Diet: Filter Feeder
  • Supplements: Calcium, Magnesium, Strontium, Trace Elements
  • Origin: Aquacultured, Cook Islands
  • Family: Tridacnidae
a-117-giant-clam-derasa2-1.jpg
 
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vetteguy53081

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Beautiful article.
IF THIS DOESNT MAKE ANYONE WANT TO ACQUIRE A CLAM !!!!

660g 8.5a.jpg
660g 8.5a.jpg
 

BigTex1836

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If provided the proper conditions, giant clams are a great choice not only for the beginner reef aquarist but even for the most advanced reef aquarists, offering beauty, biological benefits as well as biological diversity. Proper lighting, water movement, trace elements and placement of the giant clams will ensure the health of these fascinating invertebrates.

aid-117_Crocea_Clam.jpg
The clams of interest are of the genus Tridacna. These beautiful clams include T. maxima, T. crocea, T. squamosa and T. derasa. There is amazing variation in color and pattern within these species, some resembling living pieces of art, making Tridacna clams highly desirable.

Benefits to your aquarium
Besides their beauty, clams provide another important benefit to a saltwater aquarium: natural filtration. Their superior filtering capabilities offer added stability and nutrient control in a closed aquarium system.

Excess nutrients lead to problems with low pH, algae, and cyanobacteria blooms - general poor water conditions that ultimately affect the health of all inhabitants within the aquarium.
Clams constantly filter nutrients such as ammonia and nitrate from the water thereby reducing the biological load and lowering the overall nitrate level in the aquarium, improving water conditions.
aid-117_Maxima_Clam_Multicolored.jpg

Environmental Requirements

Lighting

Proper lighting is the most critical parameter essential to the well being of giant clams. Tridacna clams not only filter nutrients from the water to satisfy their dietary needs, but also employ algae cells within their mantle called zooxanthellae. These algae cells require light as well as nutrients from both the clam and the water to properly photosynthesize. The clam then utilizes the energy the algae cells produced through photosynthesis to aid in its growth.

Clams, therefore, require moderate to high lighting conditions, ideally supplied by reef-compatible LED light fixtures or metal halide fixtures. If using fluorescent fixtures, simply place the clam closer to the light source.

Water Movement
Tridacna clams do not like strong, direct water currents. They prefer moderate, indirect water movement. Strong, direct water movement seems to inhibit the clam's ability to adjust the amount of water passing through it, affecting their ability to properly filter the water.

Trace Elements
The three main trace elements giant clams require are calcium, strontium, and iodine. These elements should be present in the aquarium at or near levels found in nature. Regular water changes and routine supplementation replenish these trace elements. However, if an aquarium is heavily stocked or if aggressive chemical filtration is used, more frequent supplementation may be necessary.

Target Levels for Trace Elements
  • Calcium levels should be maintained between 400 to 450 ppm with a pH of 8.1 to 8.4 and an 8 to 12 DKH. Giant clams use calcium and strontium to build their shells.
  • Strontium levels should be maintained between 6 to 10 ppm. Slightly higher levels of strontium have proven not to be harmful to most invertebrates, but it can encourage unsightly cyanobacteria outbreaks.
  • Iodine levels should be maintained between 0.04 and 0.08 ppm. Iodine helps break down oxygen produced by the zooxanthellae cells and prevents damage due to excessive light exposure, helping the clam maintain their bright coloration. If the clam shows poor coloration, test the iodine level.
Placement
Proper placement within your aquarium is the final aspect to consider when caring for Tridacna clams. After evaluating your lighting system and water movement within the aquarium, choose the proper location for your clam.
  • Place the clam so that the mantle is facing upward towards the light to maximize exposure to light. The mantle must be in full illumination in order to provide the clam with nutrients.
  • If a more powerful lighting system, like metal halides, are used on an aquarium 24 inches or less, these clams can be placed just about anywhere in the aquarium, as long as they are not blocked from the light.
  • If at any time the clam moves and is lying on its side, right the clam back to the upright position. Do this immediately or the clam will slowly starve to death.
  • Do not place the clam in a crevice where it may have difficulty fully opening its shell. Make sure the location is sturdy and offers enough room for the clam to grow.
  • Do not place the clam in an area that has strong, direct water movement.
Aquacultured Tridacna derasa
Tridacna clams are not only some of the most beautiful additions to a reef aquarium, but because of their superior filtering capabilities, they offer added stability and nutrient control to the reef aquarium. T. derasa clams are the best choice out of this genus. They are the hardiest of the Tridacna clams, and will adjust to a wide variety of conditions within most aquariums - making them ideal for beginners.

CLOSE-UP: Aquacultured Tridacna derasa

QUICK STATS:
  • Care Level: Moderate
  • Reef Compatible: Yes
  • Lighting: Moderate
  • Waterflow: Medium
  • Placement: Bottom, Middle
  • Water Conditions: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, sg 1.020-1.025
  • Color Form: Blue, Brown, Green, Yellow
  • Diet: Filter Feeder
  • Supplements: Calcium, Magnesium, Strontium, Trace Elements
  • Origin: Aquacultured, Cook Islands
  • Family: Tridacnidae
a-117-giant-clam-derasa2-1.jpg
Can I successfully keep a clam in a bare-bottom tank? If so, any tips?
 

hart24601

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Can I successfully keep a clam in a bare-bottom tank? If so, any tips?

Right now I have 3 Maxima's, 1 baby gigas, 1 squammy, 2 derasas, and 2 hippo clams on bare bottom under led. Start with healthy stock and it's all good.
 

Dan Watson

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Right now I have 3 Maxima's, 1 baby gigas, 1 squammy, 2 derasas, and 2 hippo clams on bare bottom under led. Start with healthy stock and it's all good.

What are they resting on. im also thinking of a derasa and figured not this time because of bare bottom. Also terrified of their ability to nuke a tank. Article also doesnt mention how many critters will pick at them, nor for what reasons. Im running a 1.024sg tank without watching iodone and strontium. Everything in my tank is healthy except
for zoa and paly colonies (i also have some monster leather colonies.) They are heavily zooanthellate reliant animals like a derasa. Is there a thread on clam health? ive managed to keep muscles and other random azooanthellate clams alive for years without intervention but whats that to say for a derasa?
 

hart24601

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What are they resting on. im also thinking of a derasa and figured not this time because of bare bottom. Also terrified of their ability to nuke a tank. Article also doesnt mention how many critters will pick at them, nor for what reasons. Im running a 1.024sg tank without watching iodone and strontium. Everything in my tank is healthy except
for zoa and paly colonies (i also have some monster leather colonies.) They are heavily zooanthellate reliant animals like a derasa. Is there a thread on clam health? ive managed to keep muscles and other random azooanthellate clams alive for years without intervention but whats that to say for a derasa?
All my clams are on bare bottom. The smaller maximas I cut thin ring of pvc to keep them stable. I have heard of very low maintenance derasa but maybe others will know more.
 

Belgian Anthias

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Also here the insinuation is made that the presence of Nitrate is bad for the water quality. As we speak about closed systems also these clams will not survive without a proper nitrogen reserve and the only safe usable nitrogen reserve in the water column is nitrate.
In most cases an abnormal increase in nitrate availability is the messenger for upcoming problems and please do not shoot the messenger as this will not eliminate the cause. Nitrate is not more as safely stored usable nitrogen and no danger for the water quality at all. As the content of usable nitrogen is easily managed the nitrate content is the least annoying thing to worry about, also for keeping these shells.
 

Rioux87

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Whats the minimum size of tank you need to have those? 55gallons minimum?
 

Alexispr2000

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Do you think my two Peacock Mantis Shrimps will behave around these beautiful clams? Love to have one!
 

vetteguy53081

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Do you think my two Peacock Mantis Shrimps will behave around these beautiful clams? Love to have one!
Absolutely not. They use their hammer like claws to break shell of crabs, shrimp, snails etc to get to the meat source.
 

mike550

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I have a maxima and it’s awesome! One question. I’d like to add a Puffer (Valentini or Blue Spotted) and a coral beauty angelfish. I’ve heard from some folks that these might nip at the clam.

Anyone have experience or thoughts on this?
 

t5Nitro

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What is the care level on a crocea clam? I'm looking at picking one up at a LFS today. Tank is up now for 7 months, keeping LPS relatively successfully I believe. I have BB tank though. These are more and swelling kind?
 
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vetteguy53081

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What is the care level on a crocea clam? I'm looking at picking one up at a LFS today. Tank is up now for 7 months, keeping LPS relatively successfully I believe. I have BB tank though. These are more and swelling kind?

Crocea Clams require bright light to thrive as they contain the symbiotic algae AKA zooxanthellae, and receive the majority of their nutrition from the light through photosynthesis. Crocea that are 2" or less in size are much more sensitive to very intense lighting as their membrane is much thinner than larger specimens. Care should therfore be taken to properly photo-adapt them to an existing reef aquarium lighting similar to newly introduced SPS and soft corals. When introducing a new Crocea Clam to bright lighting, it is best to set them on a small rock or in dish with coarse substrate at the bottom of the tank. The clam can then be slowly moved up higher in the aquarium.
These clams are filter feeders and constantly filter the water for small particles. Adult Crocea Clams do not require supplemental feedings, but smaller ones less than 2" should be fed phyto or greenwater supplement several times per week if nutrients are low..
Overall, theyre pretty hardy and given intense light and good water flow along with proper water chemistry which is very important, and they will thrive well. . . also requiring calcium levels of 380- 450 and, alkalinity level of 8-11.
 

vetteguy53081

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I have a maxima and it’s awesome! One question. I’d like to add a Puffer (Valentini or Blue Spotted) and a coral beauty angelfish. I’ve heard from some folks that these might nip at the clam.

Anyone have experience or thoughts on this?
Might? They will - dont do it
 

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