Give'er - Kavorka's Waterbox AIO 35.2 Build

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Kavorka

Kavorka

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Well I got some info that Lob might be Low Battery. I replaced the battery but the TDS meter still reads as O for both incoming and outgoing water.

Unless i have the cleanest water in the world, my meter must be set up wrong.

Considering the filters are all new, i will be running this anyways and looking to get a new meter.
 
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Kavorka

Kavorka

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Well after much planning...waiting...researching...buying......and more waiting. I think i have everything to start getting this thing set up.

Image (1).jpeg


First thing is the stand. This was a PITA to be honest. I never used Camlock fastners before. They should be simple but the predrilled holes made it so things didn't always line up perfectly straight which made me think I was doing it wrong. After retrying several times/ways I just gave up and in the end it came together with only very minimal issues.

Image (2).jpeg
Image.jpeg

In the end it fit the area quite well and after messing with all the leveling feet I got er good to go.
 
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Kavorka

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OK...So basic tank and stand set up (took an embarrassingly long time lol). Now to add the rock, substrate and water.

Ended up using Red Sea Coral Pro because I could get the 200gallon commercial bag at a good price at LFS.

Image[11].jpeg
Image[9].jpeg
 
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next added the heaters. Went with 2 x 100 watts for redundancy in case one fails. Also added the inkbird controller (still havent figured out wifif mode yet...project for another day).



Image[12].jpeg


Then moved onto the left side first chamber. Had to cut out the filter sock holders so that the in-tank media baskets could fit but it was easy.
Image[13].jpeg
Image[16].jpeg


I will be putting Floss and charcoal in the first two baskets once the cycle is done. For now I added some of the Aqua Forest Life Bio Fill that the LFS gave me for free. Hoping it will help with the Cycle but dont know how long it lasts before needing to be replaced.
Image[8].jpeg


Image[12].jpeg Image[13].jpeg Image[16].jpeg Image[8].jpeg
 
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Now moved on to the return pump. It is dead silent when i ran it in the bucket but once I attached the hose to it it makes a very very subtle rattle. The wife says she cant hear but I cant stop hearing it. Ensured it was not touching the walls and was suction cuped to the bottom of tank...errr no fix. Oh well.
Image[10].jpeg




Also, not sure how much to set the flow to so i just left her at the setting it came. The flow on the top of the water is evident. not sure if to much or to little.

Image[5].jpeg
 
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Next came the ATO. I could not justify a 200.00 acrylic custom made thing (spending alot on this tank but gotta draw a line somewhere lol) so just got this 5 Gal jug. Once i drilled some holes in the top screw cap it all fits nicely.
Image[6].jpeg


Putting the sensor and the RODI water return tube in the center chamber. I hear you have to put the sensor in the middle chamber with the return pump and just assumed that the water pump should also go there.
Image[2].jpeg


The pic above is using the clamp that came with the RODI return hose. I thought it looked very white and kinda sticks out so i switched itto the magnetic holder the gave me in case i wanted to mount the safety float switch separate form the optical switch.
Image[1].jpeg


I think it looks cleaner. The tube is also outside fo the water in case of any weird siphon issues lol.
 
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I plan on putting a Protein skimmer (Tunze 9004) in the chamber to the right of the middle chamber once i finish the cycle and get some fish. For now, it holds some of these ceramic balls that i heard good things about. I also have some in a mesh bag in the far right chamber for now.
Image[7].jpeg


Once we all set up i plan to have the left most chamber have the intank media basket with Floss, carbon, empty (maybe GFO when needed) and some bio filtration (either these balls or the AF Life Bio Fill. In the far right chamber i will run a filter sock and maybe some extra bio balls under it. that will make up my filtration (plus the protein skimmer)

Hope this makes sense and is a good plan.
 
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Finally, moving on to last pieces of equipment. Added the MP10 to the tank. Placed it on the right side of the tank, roughly in the middle about 1/3 the way down the glass. Not sure if this is the best place or how to tell...guess we will just see. Leaving it on constant flow for now. I will mess with the app and different setting later (but happy to get any suggestions on best mode)

Lighting came last. Had issues getting the App for the AI Prime 16HDs going on my ipda so still havent turned it on lol.
It is mounted with the 18" flex arm and sits about 12-13 inch form water surface.
Image[4].jpeg
 
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Finally, after a stupid long time getting all the pieces together, I have a start.

Now time to cycle. The rock is Aqua Forest rock and I am using 20lbs of figi pink alive sand.

I am testing with the API test kits (feel like a scientist) but will probably buy digital kits later down the road.

I am starting cycle with the Dr Tims Ammonia Chloride and brining tank to 2ppm of Ammonia. Also Added the Dr Tims one and only live nitrifying bacteria to help speed up the process a bit.

Image.jpeg





Test on Day 1:
Ammonia 2.0ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
PH:8.2
SG: 1.26
Temp: 78

Day 2 (today):
Ammonia: 2.0ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: 0ppm
PH 8.2


....and now the wait.....................
 

Atkins

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Next came the ATO. I could not justify a 200.00 acrylic custom made thing (spending alot on this tank but gotta draw a line somewhere lol) so just got this 5 Gal jug. Once i drilled some holes in the top screw cap it all fits nicely.
Image[6].jpeg


Putting the sensor and the RODI water return tube in the center chamber. I hear you have to put the sensor in the middle chamber with the return pump and just assumed that the water pump should also go there.
Image[2].jpeg


The pic above is using the clamp that came with the RODI return hose. I thought it looked very white and kinda sticks out so i switched itto the magnetic holder the gave me in case i wanted to mount the safety float switch separate form the optical switch.
Image[1].jpeg


I think it looks cleaner. The tube is also outside fo the water in case of any weird siphon issues lol.
I like the idea of the second magnetic holder for the ATO tubing. I do have advice for your ATO sensor placement. You should drain a few inches of that return pump chamber out and place the sensor lower, thats so when you hit feed mode or turn power off to your pump the water will have enough space to drain back into the back sump area. You also want the water level away from the ATO tubing, you don't want the tank water back siphoning into your ATO resivor.

You want enough water to fully submerged the return pump, but not so much that your sensor is sticking out the top and getting blasted by light creating algae.
 

Atkins

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Finally, after a stupid long time getting all the pieces together, I have a start.

Now time to cycle. The rock is Aqua Forest rock and I am using 20lbs of figi pink alive sand.

I am testing with the API test kits (feel like a scientist) but will probably buy digital kits later down the road.

I am starting cycle with the Dr Tims Ammonia Chloride and brining tank to 2ppm of Ammonia. Also Added the Dr Tims one and only live nitrifying bacteria to help speed up the process a bit.

Image.jpeg





Test on Day 1:
Ammonia 2.0ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
PH:8.2
SG: 1.26
Temp: 78

Day 2 (today):
Ammonia: 2.0ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: 0ppm
PH 8.2


....and now the wait.....................
This is a nice tank build, hope to see more updates!
 
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Kavorka

Kavorka

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I like the idea of the second magnetic holder for the ATO tubing. I do have advice for your ATO sensor placement. You should drain a few inches of that return pump chamber out and place the sensor lower, thats so when you hit feed mode or turn power off to your pump the water will have enough space to drain back into the back sump area. You also want the water level away from the ATO tubing, you don't want the tank water back siphoning into your ATO resivor.

You want enough water to fully submerged the return pump, but not so much that your sensor is sticking out the top and getting blasted by light creating algae.
Thanks Atkins

I have never used an ATO or had a AIO tank before so honestly not sure where to put things.

I heard the ATO sensor needs to go in the middle chamber with the return pump and that the hose that pumps in RODI water needs to be above the water line. This is what I was aiming at.

Can I lower the water level in only the return chamber section without it affecting the water level in the surrounding chambers? (feel like I should know this but sadly I don't lol.

If I lower the ATO sensor, will it not just lower the overall tank level?
 

Atkins

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Thanks Atkins

I have never used an ATO or had a AIO tank before so honestly not sure where to put things.

I heard the ATO sensor needs to go in the middle chamber with the return pump and that the hose that pumps in RODI water needs to be above the water line. This is what I was aiming at.

Can I lower the water level in only the return chamber section without it affecting the water level in the surrounding chambers? (feel like I should know this but sadly I don't lol.

If I lower the ATO sensor, will it not just lower the overall tank level?
Yes you can drain the water from the return pump and ATO chamber (middle chamber) and it won't effect the other chambers that's why you have add the ATO, because that chamber will evaporate and change level, without it runs risk of running dry. Before you drain make sure to turn off the ATO and return pump, I've made that mistake before lol

Yes the RODI water line stays above the water line, I recommend keeping it up the top, far away from the water line

I recommend draining about 6 inches of that chamber, I have the same tank and it should be 18 inches tall, leaving 12 inches in the back middle chamber is plenty, you could even run a little lower is you wanted to. Place the censor in the new level of water, and you should be able to drop your RODI line a little bit for a cleaner look, so that half the magnet isn't sticking up.

Fire the return pump on first, then once it's running turn, double check the return pump chamber (Middle) it could of dropped some and that's ok, should still be plenty of water for the return pump to be fully submerged. You might to micro adjust the censor, then turn ATO back on last.

And for your last question, no the ATO censor will not effect the display tank level, because the water in the display always drains into the back chamber and pumped back into the tank. Only the last chamber, the middle back chamber with return pump on your tank will change water level because of evaporation


Hope this helps
Sorry I'm slow with reply, on nightshift hours
 
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OK so only 4 days into this and I have a few questions for ya all.

1) On day 2 and 4 the sand bed was kinda clumping togethger. I broke this up with a stick and it seems to be good but not sure what might be causing it. Any suggestions?
Image (1).jpeg


2) How do I tell if I placed my MP10 powerhead correctly. I am just eyballing it now. Also the instructions say that the cable attached to the dry side of the unit should be comin from the top. I have it set up coming form the bottom. Is there any issue with the powerhead being flipped?
Image (5).jpeg
Image (3).jpeg
Image (4).jpeg


3) Finally the cycle testing is going well. Today (day 4) saw some Nitrite finally. Odd thing was i also saw some Nitrate whcih i didnt think would show up until after the Nitirte spike. I tested it against tap water and the tap water shows 0 so the test must be working.... Is this normal/expected?


Image.jpeg

NOTE: on day one i used Dr Toms Ammonia Chloride to bring tank to 2ppm (maybe a bit more). Also use a bottle of Dr Tims one and only Nitryfying bacteria.

Day 3:
Ammonia: 2.0ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: 0ppm

Day 3:
Ammonia: 2.0ppm
Nitrite: 0.25ppm
Nitrate: 5ppm (maybe 7.5 hard to tell)


thanks for in advance for all the help.
 

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OK so only 4 days into this and I have a few questions for ya all.

1) On day 2 and 4 the sand bed was kinda clumping togethger. I broke this up with a stick and it seems to be good but not sure what might be causing it. Any suggestions?
Image (1).jpeg


2) How do I tell if I placed my MP10 powerhead correctly. I am just eyballing it now. Also the instructions say that the cable attached to the dry side of the unit should be comin from the top. I have it set up coming form the bottom. Is there any issue with the powerhead being flipped?
Image (5).jpeg
Image (3).jpeg
Image (4).jpeg


3) Finally the cycle testing is going well. Today (day 4) saw some Nitrite finally. Odd thing was i also saw some Nitrate whcih i didnt think would show up until after the Nitirte spike. I tested it against tap water and the tap water shows 0 so the test must be working.... Is this normal/expected?


Image.jpeg

NOTE: on day one i used Dr Toms Ammonia Chloride to bring tank to 2ppm (maybe a bit more). Also use a bottle of Dr Tims one and only Nitryfying bacteria.

Day 3:
Ammonia: 2.0ppm
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: 0ppm

Day 3:
Ammonia: 2.0ppm
Nitrite: 0.25ppm
Nitrate: 5ppm (maybe 7.5 hard to tell)


thanks for in advance for all the help.
Great questions, keep them coming!

1) the sand clumping I've noticed in my tanks too, haven't had any issues, I think it's from biofilms and algae sticking the fine sand together, and lack of sand cleaners. I try to stir the sand before every water change, and adding clean up inverts like snails and hermit crabs will help. I like the blue leg hermit's the best

2) power head placement is important, you want to make sure flow can get all around the tank with as little dead spots (areas of low flow) I don't use mp10s but I have seen maybe people use them with dry side cable on the bottom, to the side, and top, I don't think it matters but a good question to ask in the equipment and hardware threads

3) your cycle looks to be going as normal, I added a piece of real live rock 7+ years old from a friends sump, and I started with some softie corals, hermit crab, and 2 snails for the first month. I tested almost daily and never saw ammonia or nitrites. Keep testing for ammonia and nitrites. Once they are 0 add some easy coral or rock from someones tank and start slow with livestock. Keep testing weekly after that!
 
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Well....Despite the embarrassingly large amount of hours of time I spent stacking rocks, i just redid my aquascape. I originally bought AF Rock because my LFS wasout of the Caribsea Life rock (dry). Although teh FA orck was very lightweight, it just didn't give me the look i was going for (all pieces have flat bases / lack of noticeable nooks and crannies)

After looking at it for a week and being unhappy, i bit the bullet and bough 21 lbs of Caribsea form another fish sotre outside my area. I am now much happier with the result and cant stop looking at my setup even though the tanks still empty lol.


Old Look:
Image.jpeg


Removed Rock and seeing as though it was mid cycle, i added a bottle of Fritz 900 turbo start after the switch just to make sure i didn't loose all my progress (now tank has Dr Tims Live nitrifying bacteria and fritz).
Image (2).jpeg


New Look (3 Archways, 1 Hole, and 1 Rock island...much more open and fun to look at IMO)
Image (1).jpeg

Image (4).jpeg

Image (3).jpeg


What do you all think??
 
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Well....Despite the embarrassingly large amount of hours of time I spent stacking rocks, i just redid my aquascape. I originally bought AF Rock because my LFS wasout of the Caribsea Life rock (dry). Although teh FA orck was very lightweight, it just didn't give me the look i was going for (all pieces have flat bases / lack of noticeable nooks and crannies)

After looking at it for a week and being unhappy, i bit the bullet and bough 21 lbs of Caribsea form another fish sotre outside my area. I am now much happier with the result and cant stop looking at my setup even though the tanks still empty lol.


Old Look:
Image.jpeg


Removed Rock and seeing as though it was mid cycle, i added a bottle of Fritz 900 turbo start after the switch just to make sure i didn't loose all my progress (now tank has Dr Tims Live nitrifying bacteria and fritz).
Image (2).jpeg


New Look (3 Archways, 1 Hole, and 1 Rock island...much more open and fun to look at IMO)
Image (1).jpeg

Image (4).jpeg

Image (3).jpeg


What do you all think??
I like it! Looks very natural. What fish were you planning on having? Some really like having Rock on 3 sides caves to feel really comfortable in the aquarium
 
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I like it! Looks very natural. What fish were you planning on having? Some really like having Rock on 3 sides caves to feel really comfortable in the aquarium
Thinking of the following fish for this tank (written in the order I want to add them)

1) Yellow Watchman Goby (with Pistol shrimp)
2) Royal Grama
3) Longnose Hawkfish (may remove as i hear they can hunt shrimp and that would suck for the YWG)
4) Lawnmower Blenny
5) Pair of Clownfish

?(6)? (Maybe add a Sixline wrasse last. However not sure if this is to much for the tank. Also heard they are sometimes D#@ks lol.
 
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