Would like it to connect to my Apex if possible.
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good question! I was just trying to tie everything into the Apex since its supposedly a single point monitoring, but i found that my camera doesn't work with it directly thus will use an app...same as ATO suppose. I was just looking for simplicity maybe! ThanksThe SpectraPure ATOs are very reliable. https://spectrapure.com/products/ne...m-with-magnetic-probe-holder-llc-uplc-ato-115
Tunze 3155 is another great choice.
What functionality do you want by connecting it to the Apex? If it's on/off based on float switches or salinity, I think you'd be able to accomplish that with whatever ATO and programming.
I don't know much about the Neptune ATO, but seems like that would be the easiest integration to your Apex.
I saw that one which obviously would connect, it was just a little expensive and i already have an auto shutoff system for my RO do i didnt need that!Neptunes own ATK if you want apex compatibility. Just make sure you get the V2.
yeah that are about exactly the same in price. the tunze has a 2 year warranty, other than that i don't know/see a differenceATOs don’t usually have apps or control interfaces of any kind. If you want to see it in your Apex then the ATK is what you need. Otherwise just pick up something like a Tunze 3155, though I think they cost pretty close to the same.
the Avast is apex compatible? i didnt read that anywhere...hmmm. I have a spare vm port at them moment. The avast seems a little less expensive than the apex or tunze one1) Spectrapure UPLC-ATO
2) Tunze 3155
3) Avast ATO (Apex compatible with BoB or I/O port)
That sounded pretty deep, good but deep! lol Since i haven't had one of these in action before I am sort of clueless what all that means! I think i gather that you have to put the ATO in the DT itself? and draw water from the RO bucket? I think i will go watch a video on how to setup one.Many advise against plumbing your RO system directly to to your sump. If something goes wrong it can be disastrous. Having your RODI kicking on and off constantly for top off is also hard on the DI resin because of TDS creep when the system starts up. The float valves in systems that have it are a redundancy for if the optical sensor and/or float switch fails. Most ATO pumps will only run for 5 minutes or so before the hardware shuts them off as a safety measure, the float valve would help minimize over filling if one of the sensors failed until the pump kicks off.
Yes, most will have an ATO reservoir either in or near their stand and fill with that. It depends on your risk tolerance but many will keep their reservoir limited to an amount of water that could get dumped into their sump without causing a flood, or at least to a level that won’t completely tank your salinity if it were to all dump in. ATO’s used to be notorious for failing and pumping the entire reservoir into your tank. Too much fresh water can nuke your saltwater tank. If you were plumbed right into your RODI the water could flow for days and flood your house. I believe the systems are better now but it’s still advisable to take precautions. My ATO holds about 20 gallons, which is good for about 9 days on my 180 gallon tank with 75 gallon sump. The bigger the tank, the bigger the reservoir you would want and vice versa.That sounded pretty deep, good but deep! lol Since i haven't had one of these in action before I am sort of clueless what all that means! I think i gather that you have to put the ATO in the DT itself? and draw water from the RO bucket? I think i will go watch a video on how to setup one.
Very nice setup. By the way you have a bubble magus curve 9 i think which is what im putting in mine, how high do you have yours in your sump?Here is my system. The tank to the left is the ATO reservoir. You can see I have sump volume that could take all of that water if something went wrong and it all emptied in.
the Avast is apex compatible? i didnt read that anywhere...hmmm. I have a spare vm port at them moment. The avast seems a little less expensive than the apex or tunze one
Ok my DT is 200G and sump is 75G with as much room leftover as yours so i am going to be asking your quite a few questions if that is ok with you! lolYes, most will have an ATO reservoir either in or near their stand and fill with that. It depends on your risk tolerance but many will keep their reservoir limited to an amount of water that could get dumped into their sump without causing a flood, or at least to a level that won’t completely tank your salinity if it were to all dump in. ATO’s used to be notorious for failing and pumping the entire reservoir into your tank. Too much fresh water can nuke your saltwater tank. If you were plumbed right into your RODI the water could flow for days and flood your house. I believe the systems are better now but it’s still advisable to take precautions. My ATO holds about 20 gallons, which is good for about 9 days on my 180 gallon tank with 75 gallon sump. The bigger the tank, the bigger the reservoir you would want and vice versa.
Well think once i am cycled i will have to do alot of research on how to do some fine tune programming of all my equipment that will be on my apex. Since i have one opening on the VM module (which i think would accept the avast unit) that might be easier than doing the breakout box ??The Avast can be wired for a Breakout Box or if you don’t have a BoB, then it can be wired for the I/O port on the head unit that a BoB connects to. Based on the open or closed state of the pressure switch, you program the outlet of your ATO pump. Pressure switch set ups are very reliable, more so than optical sensors or float switches IMO as they have no moving parts and cannot get fouled by salt creep,
precipitation, etc.