Good ATO for 200G mixed reef tank?

Silver14SS

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The SpectraPure ATOs are very reliable. https://spectrapure.com/products/ne...m-with-magnetic-probe-holder-llc-uplc-ato-115

Tunze 3155 is another great choice.

What functionality do you want by connecting it to the Apex? If it's on/off based on float switches or salinity, I think you'd be able to accomplish that with whatever ATO and programming.

I don't know much about the Neptune ATO, but seems like that would be the easiest integration to your Apex.
 
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Reefrookie733

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The SpectraPure ATOs are very reliable. https://spectrapure.com/products/ne...m-with-magnetic-probe-holder-llc-uplc-ato-115

Tunze 3155 is another great choice.

What functionality do you want by connecting it to the Apex? If it's on/off based on float switches or salinity, I think you'd be able to accomplish that with whatever ATO and programming.

I don't know much about the Neptune ATO, but seems like that would be the easiest integration to your Apex.
good question! I was just trying to tie everything into the Apex since its supposedly a single point monitoring, but i found that my camera doesn't work with it directly thus will use an app...same as ATO suppose. I was just looking for simplicity maybe! Thanks
 

Albertan22

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ATOs don’t usually have apps or control interfaces of any kind. If you want to see it in your Apex then the ATK is what you need. Otherwise just pick up something like a Tunze 3155, though I think they cost pretty close to the same.
 
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Reefrookie733

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ATOs don’t usually have apps or control interfaces of any kind. If you want to see it in your Apex then the ATK is what you need. Otherwise just pick up something like a Tunze 3155, though I think they cost pretty close to the same.
yeah that are about exactly the same in price. the tunze has a 2 year warranty, other than that i don't know/see a difference
 
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Reefrookie733

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Hate to throw this in there, but i already have the guardian RO auto shutoff, is that what the float valve is for on these or would i need to use both??
 

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Many advise against plumbing your RO system directly to to your sump. If something goes wrong it can be disastrous. Having your RODI kicking on and off constantly for top off is also hard on the DI resin because of TDS creep when the system starts up. The float valves in systems that have it are a redundancy for if the optical sensor and/or float switch fails. Most ATO pumps will only run for 5 minutes or so before the hardware shuts them off as a safety measure, the float valve would help minimize over filling if one of the sensors failed until the pump kicks off.
 
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Reefrookie733

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Many advise against plumbing your RO system directly to to your sump. If something goes wrong it can be disastrous. Having your RODI kicking on and off constantly for top off is also hard on the DI resin because of TDS creep when the system starts up. The float valves in systems that have it are a redundancy for if the optical sensor and/or float switch fails. Most ATO pumps will only run for 5 minutes or so before the hardware shuts them off as a safety measure, the float valve would help minimize over filling if one of the sensors failed until the pump kicks off.
That sounded pretty deep, good but deep! lol Since i haven't had one of these in action before I am sort of clueless what all that means! I think i gather that you have to put the ATO in the DT itself? and draw water from the RO bucket? I think i will go watch a video on how to setup one.
 

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That sounded pretty deep, good but deep! lol Since i haven't had one of these in action before I am sort of clueless what all that means! I think i gather that you have to put the ATO in the DT itself? and draw water from the RO bucket? I think i will go watch a video on how to setup one.
Yes, most will have an ATO reservoir either in or near their stand and fill with that. It depends on your risk tolerance but many will keep their reservoir limited to an amount of water that could get dumped into their sump without causing a flood, or at least to a level that won’t completely tank your salinity if it were to all dump in. ATO’s used to be notorious for failing and pumping the entire reservoir into your tank. Too much fresh water can nuke your saltwater tank. If you were plumbed right into your RODI the water could flow for days and flood your house. I believe the systems are better now but it’s still advisable to take precautions. My ATO holds about 20 gallons, which is good for about 9 days on my 180 gallon tank with 75 gallon sump. The bigger the tank, the bigger the reservoir you would want and vice versa.
 

Albertan22

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Here is my system. The tank to the left is the ATO reservoir. You can see I have sump volume that could take all of that water if something went wrong and it all emptied in.
image.jpg
 
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Reefrookie733

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Here is my system. The tank to the left is the ATO reservoir. You can see I have sump volume that could take all of that water if something went wrong and it all emptied in.
image.jpg
Very nice setup. By the way you have a bubble magus curve 9 i think which is what im putting in mine, how high do you have yours in your sump?
 

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the Avast is apex compatible? i didnt read that anywhere...hmmm. I have a spare vm port at them moment. The avast seems a little less expensive than the apex or tunze one

The Avast can be wired for a Breakout Box or if you don’t have a BoB, then it can be wired for the I/O port on the head unit that a BoB connects to. Based on the open or closed state of the pressure switch, you program the outlet of your ATO pump. Pressure switch set ups are very reliable, more so than optical sensors or float switches IMO as they have no moving parts and cannot get fouled by salt creep,
precipitation, etc.
 
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Reefrookie733

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Yes, most will have an ATO reservoir either in or near their stand and fill with that. It depends on your risk tolerance but many will keep their reservoir limited to an amount of water that could get dumped into their sump without causing a flood, or at least to a level that won’t completely tank your salinity if it were to all dump in. ATO’s used to be notorious for failing and pumping the entire reservoir into your tank. Too much fresh water can nuke your saltwater tank. If you were plumbed right into your RODI the water could flow for days and flood your house. I believe the systems are better now but it’s still advisable to take precautions. My ATO holds about 20 gallons, which is good for about 9 days on my 180 gallon tank with 75 gallon sump. The bigger the tank, the bigger the reservoir you would want and vice versa.
Ok my DT is 200G and sump is 75G with as much room leftover as yours so i am going to be asking your quite a few questions if that is ok with you! lol
I will send them by PM if that will be easier.
 
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Reefrookie733

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The Avast can be wired for a Breakout Box or if you don’t have a BoB, then it can be wired for the I/O port on the head unit that a BoB connects to. Based on the open or closed state of the pressure switch, you program the outlet of your ATO pump. Pressure switch set ups are very reliable, more so than optical sensors or float switches IMO as they have no moving parts and cannot get fouled by salt creep,
precipitation, etc.
Well think once i am cycled i will have to do alot of research on how to do some fine tune programming of all my equipment that will be on my apex. Since i have one opening on the VM module (which i think would accept the avast unit) that might be easier than doing the breakout box ??
 

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It does not work with a VDM module as it is not a 0-10v variable speed/dimming device. If you do not own a BoB, you can order the one wired with the I/O cable and plug it into the I/O port on the Apex head unit that you would normally plug a BoB into.

Programming for the ATO pump outlet would be as simple as...

Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If SW1 OPEN Then ON

For an added level of redundancy based upon salinity levels, this is of course after you properly calibrate your conductivity probe, you can add the line...

If Condx1 < 31.0 Then OFF
 
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