Grow Cheato consistantly in the refugium

reefmutt

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The more info we have the better. Thanks
Hey, no problem. One has to think of cheato as a complex marine organism.. maybe not quite as complex as a coral but it certainly has the same needs as any type of plant.. salt or fresh.. look at what those freshwater planted tanks require.. they have all sorts of supplements to keep the aquatic plants thriving .. iron, potassium, No3, Po4 and CO2 being the most important...
I also run a ca reactor and always set up my systems to have the ca reactor effluent run into my cheato before mixing back into the system..
 
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Dragon52

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Luno

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Years ago all we used was a floodlight with warm white globe. Grew cheato like a weed you couldn't get rid of.

Now I use a Chinese 165w led had sitting around. Works great but keep it on white light.

Honestly I really don't feel that the light is the biggest thing with growing cheato. If you want to out compete nuisance algae in a display by using a fuge that's a different story.

I fell like regular removal getting a bit of a tumble have been more important in consistent growth than lighting itself.
 

exnisstech

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I use two of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCLVLS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L-ecDb1CJHP7X. Both are attached to the glass down low one on the front and one on the back with two clamp on lights above with grow light bulbs from home depot. This way the chaeto gets light pretty much all through it. I run 12 Hr cycles opposite tank lights.
I get crazy growth and harvest about every 10 days. Mine does not tumble as I installed the baffles wrong but I do roll it by hand every couple of days.
 

Japtastic

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I’ve used t5 and or Home Depot white led strips. I used to use the older twisted compact fluorescent bulbs.. even used mh a couple times.. currently, I’m using a pair of the waterproof Tunze fuge lights. They are full spectrum. Red/green/blue and white leds..I use them because when/if there is a power failure they can be submerged without issues..
I find that the health and growth of cheato is more dependant on it getting adequate amounts of iron, iodine, potassium, and other trace like zinc and manganese...and of course ulns will have trouble growing cheato as well.. proper light will play a role but without the proper nutrients and trace in the water, the stuff just will not grow.
Over the years, I have found that -most of the time, it only grows consistently and long term with trace element dosing. This will not be everyone’s experience but I think it is most often the case. If your cheato suddenly stalls, I think the first course of action should be to supplement it with proper trace rather than change the light.. but again, I’m sure some will say that as soon as they changed from one light to another, their cheato took off.. but for how long...
It’s also been my experience, in one system, that the cheato would grow extremely well but if cyano began to appear and then thrive, the cheato would suddenly stop but with a dose of cyano killer, the cheato would rebound soon after a treatment.. this also leads me to believe its nutrient and trace that are really key..
Sorry for the novel.. been using cheato fuges in my reefs for decades.

Great info here. It was along the lines of what I was going to post. I had trouble growing Chaeto until I sorted out my testing and dosing of:

Iron
Potassium
Manganese
Iodine

Even though these trace elements are included in my dosing or water changes, they require additional top up to keep the Chaeto happy. The Iron, Potassium and Iodine were fairly easy to dial in using test kits but the I had to rely on info from Randy and ICP testing to sort the Manganese dose.

I was initially under the impression it would just grow like a weed with my H380 and some Nitrates and Phosphates. Took me a little while to figure out how to grow it consistently and properly.

The other thing mine doesn’t like is high Alk (above 9) or high Mag (above 1450)
 

bluprntguy

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I think this has less to do with your light and more to do with nutrients. I dose Brightwell chaeto grow once a week and that seems to keep the chaeto going. Running kessil H80 on for 12 hours opposite of my display.
 

Brett S

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I have a Radion XR15 Freshwater light over my fuge (the freshwater version is a different spectrum than the normal saltwater Radion that is more suited to plant growth). It’s been working well, but I also recently added some of the Tunze underwater fuge lights to light my cheato from the bottom as well as talked about in the following thread. That has significantly increased my cheato growth.


Underwater refugium lighting
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...rwater-refugium-lighting.589445/&share_type=t
 

stefanm

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I have used a pair of warm white 20 watt flood lights for a year now, works well. However I had to make a new sump last week, so the fuge section is deeper now so may need to add a small pump, will know in a few days I guess.
 

McPuff

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If you don't have enough nutrients in your system then chaeto won't grow very well regardless of the light source. Most of us don't have that problem though. :0)

I have used a high pressure sodium bulb (similar to halide) and it worked very well. Used a mars hydro (300W) and that also was very impressive. Now, I use a DIY chaeto reactor wrapped with grow light LED ribbon. It also works really well when my nutrients are high enough. I probably only empty it every two months.

In my experience, the key is to use a lot of light, give the chaeto some "rest time" (i.e., dark time for respiration), turning it every so often seems to help. Removing the chaeto to rinse it/shake it out occasionally also helps to reduce competition with other algae that grow on/in the chaeto. I don't believe tumbling really does much and at some point it simply won't have room to tumble anyway. And obviously, harvest 1/2 to 3/4 of the chaeto regularly to actually perform the nutrient export it was used for in the first place. :0)
 

Tjakes680

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I have always used a freshwater 65 k plant light t5 or PC been using this since the 90 s and always had success in growing Cheto with this light also i run it oppisite my DT lighting I actually feel the way Cheto or any other type is cut and harvested in fudge make a difference in grow rate I have seen many grow the first batch easy fast and no problem but after they trim it to take some out when its grown to much they can never achieve that growth again i dont know if that has anything to do with them cutting it or tearing it
 

BeejReef

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I've not had an issue with growing it. Maybe a touch overkill on a $50 ebay horticulture light. Mine won't tumble well, but it fills the center section of my sump. If I throw half away, it comes back within weeks.

No dosing has been required yet, but I still do >15% weekly WC. ATM, my fuge is my only filtration. I run a small bag of carbon, no filter socks, no skimmer. Every two weeks, I pull out the green mass and rinse it in WC water.
I'm not against filter socks or a skimmer, but I'm lucky to see 5 Nitrate and any detectable phosphate at all running just the fuge and I'm down to only lighting it 7 hours a day. I have the Hanna LR Phosphate, not the ULR. I'm hoping that 0.0 isn't really 0.0 all the time. Tank looks good though, so I'm not messing with it.

One trend I've seen in my limited time reefing and on here is what a canary chaeto seems to be. Seems like every problem thread, the OP is talking about how their chaeto won't grow/never would grow/recently melted.
 

rkpetersen

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I find that the health and growth of cheato is more dependant on it getting adequate amounts of iron, iodine, potassium, and other trace like zinc and manganese...and of course ulns will have trouble growing cheato as well.. proper light will play a role but without the proper nutrients and trace in the water, the stuff just will not grow.
Over the years, I have found that -most of the time, it only grows consistently and long term with trace element dosing. This will not be everyone’s experience but I think it is most often the case. If your cheato suddenly stalls, I think the first course of action should be to supplement it with proper trace rather than change the light.. but again, I’m sure some will say that as soon as they changed from one light to another, their cheato took off.. but for how long...
It’s also been my experience, in one system, that the cheato would grow extremely well but if cyano began to appear and then thrive, the cheato would suddenly stop but with a dose of cyano killer, the cheato would rebound soon after a treatment.. this also leads me to believe its nutrient and trace that are really key..

Exactly my experience as I mentioned above. Trace elements seem to be the most important factor, more important than which particular light you're using.
 

Ian M

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I run two fuges, a 75g with the kessil h380 and a 55g with two 6500k clip-on work lights. In the last 8 weeks I pulled 10 g bucket full out of the h380 tank and just now thinking of pulling from the other. Yes they both grow healthy but the kessil is growing at double the rate, so many people want to know if they are worth the higher price tags. The way I see it is the faster the growth means it is pulling more phos/nitrates out twice as much as the cheap lights do, so depending upon your system requirements and bio load would determine the amount of light needed to produce your desired export. Not everyone is running large fuges so the cheap option might be all they need, I use 125g of refug instead of using filter socks or skimmer which keeps the 280g total water volume at <2 No3 and undetectable Po4. It also serves as a massive pod factory as well as to grow other types of micro algae to feed the tangs.
 

reaper0268

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https://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-Veg...led+grow+bulb&qid=1561395757&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I use this cheap 50W bulb to grow chaeto in my 30 gal sump for my 90 gal tank. I harvest half my cheato (tight packed 1 gal ziplock) every two weeks.

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