Guide to DIY with T-Slot Aluminum

polyppal

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Messages
3,151
Reaction score
6,214
Location
Denver
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
profileDisplay.png

Guide to DIY with T-Slot Aluminum
By Zach Friedrichs (@polyppal)

T-Slot aluminum extrusion is an ideal material for building modern, strong tank stands and canopies. And it isn’t as difficult as you might think, essentially you are playing with a supersize Erector kit! Using simple fastening methods and careful planning, even an individual with no experience can build a high tech stand quickly and easily!

Standard DIY disclaimers applies - The author is not responsible for anything you build based on information in this article.


Why use T-Slot extrusion over wood?

Building with T-Slot has a number of advantages over building with wood. Aluminum extrusion is stronger and lighter than wood. Once the cuts are made, it can also be put together and taken down easily. And while it isn’t exactly cheap, designing and building your own stand need not be overly expensive either.

One of the keys to successfully building your T-Slot stand is careful planning and design. I order my T-Slot and brackets from Zyltech (zyltech.com), where you can have bars precision cut to specific sizes for a small fee. Other T-Slot suppliers also offer custom cutting services, and I highly recommend this since extrusion can be a challenge to cut precisely on a home miter saw. If you choose to cut the bar yourself, it is recommend to use a blade designed for cutting aluminum extrusion, like a 60-72 tooth carbide tipped triple chip blade. Always use proper eye and safety protection when cutting T-Slot, cutting has a tendency to produce tiny/sharp/hot aluminum shavings!

polyppalTslot3030.png
3030 profile bar. 30mm x 30mm

What profile (size) do I need?

Profile refers to the size/thickness of the T-Slot bar used. Common profiles are 2020 (20mmx20mm) , 3030 (30mmx30mm), 4040 (40mmx40mm) etc. Aluminum extrusion is very strong, and in most cases you will not need to build with anything over 3030. For example, a 36” 3030 bar supported on 2 ends can support 3,573 lbs! For very large systems, you might choose a larger profile.

polyppalTslotplates.png
(From left to right) reinforced corner bracket, tee plate, 90 corner plate

How do I attach it?

The simplest way to attach T-Slot is by using external plates or supported corner brackets. These brackets attach to the exterior of the bar, and are anchored in place by T-Bolts and Nuts. I prefer the look and strength of external plates in most situations. They also make it much easier to add slide-in panels between the bars for aesthetic purposes.

polyppalplatetotslot.png


So, let's build a stand!

For the purposes of this sample build, we will use the simplest types of external fasteners, plates and corner brackets

IMG_1071.jpeg
In the example build for this article, we will build my custom 68g acrylic tank stand seen here.
(The basic aspects of the tank can easily be duplicated to your specific tank needs).


polyppalstanddesign.png IMG_0950.jpeg

My custom AIO is 32”w x 26”d x 20”h, holding approx. 68-72 gallons max. Figuring 10 lbs/gal with water/rock/etc, the stand should hold a minimum of 720 lbs. With 3030 bar, this could easily be accomplished even without the additional front center braces, but I like to include at least one center brace on med/larger tanks.

The stand height is 32”, converting to mm is 813mm, so the stand has 4 bars cut to 813mm.
  • The 4 front width top/bottom bars are 753mm (front of tank is 813mm, minus the 30mm bars on the left and right)
  • The 4 side top/bottom bars are 600mm (side of tank is 660mm, minus the 30mm bars on the left and right)
  • X’s denote where corner or center plates are attached. There are a total of 16 90deg plates used on the corners, and 8 Tee Plates used for the inside and outside of the center braces.

IMG_0960.jpeg IMG_0961.jpeg

Using a Hex wrench and M5 nuts/bolts (M5 for 3030 bar, the nut/bolt size will change depending on profile) - loosely thread a bolt on the back of each bolt to attach the plate. Then place the plate over the rail and tighten/hand torque it into position. Tighten the bolts well, but don’t over tighten them, it can make them extremely hard to remove if you need to make adjustments or disassemble it!

IMG_0958.jpeg IMG_0957.jpeg

I had 2 pieces of white acrylic cut that easily slide into place when using exterior plates. These can make nice decorative or mounting features. I also attach a padded neoprene tape to the top of the stand where it meets the tank.

IMG_0955.jpeg IMG_0962.jpegIMG_0964.jpeg IMG_0965.jpeg
Additional images from the construction of this stand

These are just the basics, once you are comfortable working with it, any number of other features can be included on your T-Slot stands - like lighting canopies, shelving, doors, caster brackets, etc!

IMG_0183.jpeg IMG_0034.jpeg IMG_0044.JPG IMG_0078.jpeg IMG_0070.JPG

I hope this information is helpful to your future T-Slot project endeavors!
- Zach (polyppal)



Some T-Slot suppliers you might consider:

8020
http://8020.net
Amazon http://amazon.com
Grainger http://grainger.com
Openbuilds http://openbuildspartstore.com
Orange Aluminum http://orangealuminum.com
Parco http://parco-inc.com
Zyltech (my preferred supplier) http://zyltech.com
 

Doctorgori

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 18, 2019
Messages
4,132
Reaction score
5,389
Location
Myrtle Beach
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
this should be a nice loooooong thread please
…interested and following
(posting to show there is interest here vs just hitting “watch”)
edit add: as a uniformed/no experience T slot enthusiasts :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes: I like to know the best sources/vendors, cutting fabrication, hardware choices, sizes & strengths, links to common dimensions, et et
 

rtparty

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 19, 2010
Messages
4,667
Reaction score
8,024
Location
Utah
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
I have used Zyltech and Controlled Dynamics T Slot. I wouldn't touch Zyltech again if Controlled Dynamis is an option. They are very different and one is better in every way. Especially the connections and how they lock together. CD is more expensive and not as easy to order through though.
 

BCSreef

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 22, 2016
Messages
599
Reaction score
482
Location
Maineville, OH
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Tnutz.com is good. They can cut, machine, drill & tap if you need. Good prices too. I built a stand for a 70-gallon hydroponic frag tank. I had everything precut and machined. Really solid.
 

JGT

5000 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 6, 2020
Messages
5,308
Reaction score
5,934
Location
Northeast
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
80/20 very versatile, lotsa gauges for all uses., all kids of connectors and pretty DIY friendly. Built my lighting frame out of it. Supports 7 Radion 15's and connected to a tubular motor to allow me to raise and lower as needed for tank maintenance with my phone.
 

polyppal

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Messages
3,151
Reaction score
6,214
Location
Denver
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have used Zyltech and Controlled Dynamics T Slot. I wouldn't touch Zyltech again if Controlled Dynamis is an option. They are very different and one is better in every way. Especially the connections and how they lock together. CD is more expensive and not as easy to order through though.
Zyltech isn't as high quality as some other brands, but I use them/recommend them because I generally find they are significantly cheaper. They have always had great customer service for me too.

I would not buy Zyltechs adonized (black) again though.
 

polyppal

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Messages
3,151
Reaction score
6,214
Location
Denver
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I have used Zyltech and Controlled Dynamics T Slot. I wouldn't touch Zyltech again if Controlled Dynamis is an option. They are very different and one is better in every way. Especially the connections and how they lock together. CD is more expensive and not as easy to order through though.

937CBB72-41B2-477B-918B-785F7F9C7114.gif

Ok so after trying to disassemble a stand I built with Zyltech about 6mo ago, I agree with your thought about their hardware (nuts/bolts) being trash. Really soft metal that basically strips out every bolt if you try to disassemble.

I do still like the Zyltech bars themselves though, no complaints about those. And no issues with the plates either for me, but the nuts and bolts are so bad that I’m retracting my ‘preferred‘ status for them.

they are still hands down the best option price-wise… as long as you never have to disassemble it lol
 
Last edited:

HuduVudu

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 2, 2020
Messages
3,241
Reaction score
3,660
Location
Houston
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
profileDisplay.png

Guide to DIY with T-Slot Aluminum
By Zach Friedrichs (@polyppal)

T-Slot aluminum extrusion is an ideal material for building modern, strong tank stands and canopies. And it isn’t as difficult as you might think, essentially you are playing with a supersize Erector kit! Using simple fastening methods and careful planning, even an individual with no experience can build a high tech stand quickly and easily!

Standard DIY disclaimers applies - The author is not responsible for anything you build based on information in this article.


Why use T-Slot extrusion over wood?

Building with T-Slot has a number of advantages over building with wood. Aluminum extrusion is stronger and lighter than wood. Once the cuts are made, it can also be put together and taken down easily. And while it isn’t exactly cheap, designing and building your own stand need not be overly expensive either.

One of the keys to successfully building your T-Slot stand is careful planning and design. I order my T-Slot and brackets from Zyltech (zyltech.com), where you can have bars precision cut to specific sizes for a small fee. Other T-Slot suppliers also offer custom cutting services, and I highly recommend this since extrusion can be a challenge to cut precisely on a home miter saw. If you choose to cut the bar yourself, it is recommend to use a blade designed for cutting aluminum extrusion, like a 60-72 tooth carbide tipped triple chip blade. Always use proper eye and safety protection when cutting T-Slot, cutting has a tendency to produce tiny/sharp/hot aluminum shavings!

polyppalTslot3030.png
3030 profile bar. 30mm x 30mm

What profile (size) do I need?

Profile refers to the size/thickness of the T-Slot bar used. Common profiles are 2020 (20mmx20mm) , 3030 (30mmx30mm), 4040 (40mmx40mm) etc. Aluminum extrusion is very strong, and in most cases you will not need to build with anything over 3030. For example, a 36” 3030 bar supported on 2 ends can support 3,573 lbs! For very large systems, you might choose a larger profile.

polyppalTslotplates.png
(From left to right) reinforced corner bracket, tee plate, 90 corner plate

How do I attach it?

The simplest way to attach T-Slot is by using external plates or supported corner brackets. These brackets attach to the exterior of the bar, and are anchored in place by T-Bolts and Nuts. I prefer the look and strength of external plates in most situations. They also make it much easier to add slide-in panels between the bars for aesthetic purposes.

polyppalplatetotslot.png


So, let's build a stand!

For the purposes of this sample build, we will use the simplest types of external fasteners, plates and corner brackets

IMG_1071.jpeg
In the example build for this article, we will build my custom 68g acrylic tank stand seen here.
(The basic aspects of the tank can easily be duplicated to your specific tank needs).


polyppalstanddesign.png IMG_0950.jpeg

My custom AIO is 32”w x 26”d x 20”h, holding approx. 68-72 gallons max. Figuring 10 lbs/gal with water/rock/etc, the stand should hold a minimum of 720 lbs. With 3030 bar, this could easily be accomplished even without the additional front center braces, but I like to include at least one center brace on med/larger tanks.

The stand height is 32”, converting to mm is 813mm, so the stand has 4 bars cut to 813mm.
  • The 4 front width top/bottom bars are 753mm (front of tank is 813mm, minus the 30mm bars on the left and right)
  • The 4 side top/bottom bars are 600mm (side of tank is 660mm, minus the 30mm bars on the left and right)
  • X’s denote where corner or center plates are attached. There are a total of 16 90deg plates used on the corners, and 8 Tee Plates used for the inside and outside of the center braces.

IMG_0960.jpeg IMG_0961.jpeg

Using a Hex wrench and M5 nuts/bolts (M5 for 3030 bar, the nut/bolt size will change depending on profile) - loosely thread a bolt on the back of each bolt to attach the plate. Then place the plate over the rail and tighten/hand torque it into position. Tighten the bolts well, but don’t over tighten them, it can make them extremely hard to remove if you need to make adjustments or disassemble it!

IMG_0958.jpeg IMG_0957.jpeg

I had 2 pieces of white acrylic cut that easily slide into place when using exterior plates. These can make nice decorative or mounting features. I also attach a padded neoprene tape to the top of the stand where it meets the tank.

IMG_0955.jpeg IMG_0962.jpegIMG_0964.jpeg IMG_0965.jpeg
Additional images from the construction of this stand

These are just the basics, once you are comfortable working with it, any number of other features can be included on your T-Slot stands - like lighting canopies, shelving, doors, caster brackets, etc!

IMG_0183.jpeg IMG_0034.jpeg IMG_0044.JPG IMG_0078.jpeg IMG_0070.JPG

I hope this information is helpful to your future T-Slot project endeavors!
- Zach (polyppal)



Some T-Slot suppliers you might consider:

8020
http://8020.net
Amazon http://amazon.com
Grainger http://grainger.com
Openbuilds http://openbuildspartstore.com
Orange Aluminum http://orangealuminum.com
Parco http://parco-inc.com
Zyltech (my preferred supplier) http://zyltech.com
Solid cheaper source for T-Slot and hardware:

 

kopilatte

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 12, 2018
Messages
34
Reaction score
9
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Will this be strong enough for aquarium rack system. Multiple aquariums stacked vertically
 

MnFish1

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
22,561
Reaction score
21,791
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
profileDisplay.png

Guide to DIY with T-Slot Aluminum
By Zach Friedrichs (@polyppal)

T-Slot aluminum extrusion is an ideal material for building modern, strong tank stands and canopies. And it isn’t as difficult as you might think, essentially you are playing with a supersize Erector kit! Using simple fastening methods and careful planning, even an individual with no experience can build a high tech stand quickly and easily!

Standard DIY disclaimers applies - The author is not responsible for anything you build based on information in this article.


Why use T-Slot extrusion over wood?

Building with T-Slot has a number of advantages over building with wood. Aluminum extrusion is stronger and lighter than wood. Once the cuts are made, it can also be put together and taken down easily. And while it isn’t exactly cheap, designing and building your own stand need not be overly expensive either.

One of the keys to successfully building your T-Slot stand is careful planning and design. I order my T-Slot and brackets from Zyltech (zyltech.com), where you can have bars precision cut to specific sizes for a small fee. Other T-Slot suppliers also offer custom cutting services, and I highly recommend this since extrusion can be a challenge to cut precisely on a home miter saw. If you choose to cut the bar yourself, it is recommend to use a blade designed for cutting aluminum extrusion, like a 60-72 tooth carbide tipped triple chip blade. Always use proper eye and safety protection when cutting T-Slot, cutting has a tendency to produce tiny/sharp/hot aluminum shavings!

polyppalTslot3030.png
3030 profile bar. 30mm x 30mm

What profile (size) do I need?

Profile refers to the size/thickness of the T-Slot bar used. Common profiles are 2020 (20mmx20mm) , 3030 (30mmx30mm), 4040 (40mmx40mm) etc. Aluminum extrusion is very strong, and in most cases you will not need to build with anything over 3030. For example, a 36” 3030 bar supported on 2 ends can support 3,573 lbs! For very large systems, you might choose a larger profile.

polyppalTslotplates.png
(From left to right) reinforced corner bracket, tee plate, 90 corner plate

How do I attach it?

The simplest way to attach T-Slot is by using external plates or supported corner brackets. These brackets attach to the exterior of the bar, and are anchored in place by T-Bolts and Nuts. I prefer the look and strength of external plates in most situations. They also make it much easier to add slide-in panels between the bars for aesthetic purposes.

polyppalplatetotslot.png


So, let's build a stand!

For the purposes of this sample build, we will use the simplest types of external fasteners, plates and corner brackets

IMG_1071.jpeg
In the example build for this article, we will build my custom 68g acrylic tank stand seen here.
(The basic aspects of the tank can easily be duplicated to your specific tank needs).


polyppalstanddesign.png IMG_0950.jpeg

My custom AIO is 32”w x 26”d x 20”h, holding approx. 68-72 gallons max. Figuring 10 lbs/gal with water/rock/etc, the stand should hold a minimum of 720 lbs. With 3030 bar, this could easily be accomplished even without the additional front center braces, but I like to include at least one center brace on med/larger tanks.

The stand height is 32”, converting to mm is 813mm, so the stand has 4 bars cut to 813mm.
  • The 4 front width top/bottom bars are 753mm (front of tank is 813mm, minus the 30mm bars on the left and right)
  • The 4 side top/bottom bars are 600mm (side of tank is 660mm, minus the 30mm bars on the left and right)
  • X’s denote where corner or center plates are attached. There are a total of 16 90deg plates used on the corners, and 8 Tee Plates used for the inside and outside of the center braces.

IMG_0960.jpeg IMG_0961.jpeg

Using a Hex wrench and M5 nuts/bolts (M5 for 3030 bar, the nut/bolt size will change depending on profile) - loosely thread a bolt on the back of each bolt to attach the plate. Then place the plate over the rail and tighten/hand torque it into position. Tighten the bolts well, but don’t over tighten them, it can make them extremely hard to remove if you need to make adjustments or disassemble it!

IMG_0958.jpeg IMG_0957.jpeg

I had 2 pieces of white acrylic cut that easily slide into place when using exterior plates. These can make nice decorative or mounting features. I also attach a padded neoprene tape to the top of the stand where it meets the tank.

IMG_0955.jpeg IMG_0962.jpegIMG_0964.jpeg IMG_0965.jpeg
Additional images from the construction of this stand

These are just the basics, once you are comfortable working with it, any number of other features can be included on your T-Slot stands - like lighting canopies, shelving, doors, caster brackets, etc!

IMG_0183.jpeg IMG_0034.jpeg IMG_0044.JPG IMG_0078.jpeg IMG_0070.JPG

I hope this information is helpful to your future T-Slot project endeavors!
- Zach (polyppal)



Some T-Slot suppliers you might consider:

8020
http://8020.net
Amazon http://amazon.com
Grainger http://grainger.com
Openbuilds http://openbuildspartstore.com
Orange Aluminum http://orangealuminum.com
Parco http://parco-inc.com
Zyltech (my preferred supplier) http://zyltech.com
Someone else posted a thread about this - a couple months ago it looked interesting. Thanks for so greatly summarizing the process!!!
 

polyppal

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Messages
3,151
Reaction score
6,214
Location
Denver
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If I understand correctly, the top frame is not sitting on top of the vertical legs. Is that a personal choice or a design for strength?
just the way I designed this one, a solid top resting on legs would likely be stronger and is prob a better idea on larger tanks.
 

kopilatte

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 12, 2018
Messages
34
Reaction score
9
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Depending on the bar diameter, yes it should be. It is stronger than comparable building with wood
My concern is the shelving. How should i stack the shelving? Trying to find visual example how to build this.
 
Back
Top