Guide to DIY with T-Slot Aluminum

[PR_nano]

Thanks for the article, saving it to read later.

 

[rtparty]

This is amazing. I’m having a 120x36x24 tank built and I think I will utilize this for the stand. Thanks for the write-up!

For those of you who have used aluminum stands, what would you place below the tank and on top of the stand? In my mind I’m thinking about abs or 1/4” aluminum sheet with a rubber mat on top. The aluminum sheet is probably a waste of money though. Probably like $1000+ for something that plywood could do. Any feedback appreciated!

I used 3/4" melamine that I flex sealed the sides of. Then used a 1" foam board. Could have used 1/2" but they were out

 

[Sassafras]

I used 3/4" StarLite and 3/4 foam board under a 130"x36"x36" glass tank on an extruded aluminum stand. StarLite is essentially a less dense form of StarBoard by the same manufacturer, but still easily able to support the weight of my tank. It comes in 96"x60" sheets as opposed to 96"x54" for StarBoard. That made the difference of allowing me to use a single sheet rather than buying two sheets. A full sheet cost me $502, not including shipping. A bit pricey, but absolutely no worries about water exposure.

 

[cdnco2004]

Thanks for this. I need to figure out how to build a stand for my 210g with 75g sump. This looks very promising. I was going to do wood, but I don't trust my carpentry skills.

 

[cdnco2004]

By the way, when ever I try to view the pictures in the original post I get a message I do not have permission. Not sure why.

 

[ScottD]

I managed to take some pictures to share with you today of my friend's 500 gallon, I thought it was a 1000G but was mistaken... Hope this will help you understand the dynamics of the setup...

Neon_reefer, Can you give any details on this stand? Do you know any dimensions on it and what size of extrusion they used. I’m looking into building a stand and doing some research.
Thanks,
Scott

 

[neonreef3d]

Neon_reefer, Can you give any details on this stand? Do you know any dimensions on it and what size of extrusion they used. I’m looking into building a stand and doing some research.
Thanks,
Scott

hey Scott, if you message me directly, I would love to give you details on this stand, and the source of where to get the materials. just click on my profile, and choose the "start conversation" option.. as I dont want to flood this thread with unwanted posts..

 

[infinite0180]

Turned out nice! I added leveling feet as well. Thanks for everybody's help here!

 

[Peace River]

Nicely done!

 

[MnFish1]

Very nice in the end!! - would you mind revealing the cost?

 

[PR_nano]

Came out great! I was watching some video on 8020 and really liked this one a lot.

I think another indented panel to mount controllers in the right side and some shelves on the left for storage (food, additive, test kits, ect would be awesome but it looks great.

 

[infinite0180]

Very nice in the end!! - would you mind revealing the cost?

280$ for the parts from FramingTech. I live in Buffalo and they are in Rochester which is only an hour away so shipping was only $20 via ground! Not bad for $300…

 

[BZOFIQ]

280$ for the parts from FramingTech. I live in Buffalo and they are in Rochester which is only an hour away so shipping was only $20 via ground! Not bad for $300…

If you're going the DIY route you should compare with TNutz.com - much cheaper.

FramingTech is great if you're building for large tanks so that they can design and do load calcs.

I've used both on many occasions.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

If you're going the DIY route you should compare with TNutz.com - much cheaper.

FramingTech is great if you're building for large tanks so that they can design and do load calcs.

I've used both on many occasions.

I've never used t slot , is having a design and loads calculated important (obviously they sound like it) or can you just build like using wood for something like a 50-100 gallon tank? I'll probably be looking more into this now that I've seen it around enough.

I'll check out these sites you mentioned

 

[infinite0180]

Here she is. Still need to scape!

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

Here she is. Still need to scape!

Nice work. Anyone considering skinning their stand, look into these they are called "button Fix" we have used them in the past where clients insisted on wood and they work well.

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

And... If you are looking for the heavy duty gauges, we have 90 millimeter profiles with components. Nice big leveling feet too

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

My concern is the shelving. How should i stack the shelving? Trying to find visual example how to build this.

You can easily reposition the shelves. OP is using gusset connectors. very sturdy. You can use what are called "inside connectors" as well and with angle brackets, place the shelving on top of the profile. That way it is easily disassembled/moved.

 

[TheBear78]

I've never used t slot , is having a design and loads calculated important (obviously they sound like it) or can you just build like using wood for something like a 50-100 gallon tank? I'll probably be looking more into this now that I've seen it around enough.

I'll check out these sites you mentioned

I think it would be easy enough to design a small to medium stand. Admittedly I do have an engineering background but if you're not 100% happy then simply scaling a "good" design up or own won't be far from the mark.
The design in post #68 is a good example where the longest horizontal beams are sat on top of the vertical legs. Compare this to the example in post #1 where the ends of the beams are only supported by the friction/clamping ability of the questionable hardware. Luckily they have a centre support.
If I was designing it myself I would probably add a few extra supports just for piece of mind.

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

I think it would be easy enough to design a small to medium stand. Admittedly I do have an engineering background but if you're not 100% happy then simply scaling a "good" design up or own won't be far from the mark.
The design in post #68 is a good example where the longest horizontal beams are sat on top of the vertical legs. Compare this to the example in post #1 where the ends of the beams are only supported by the friction/clamping ability of the questionable hardware. Luckily they have a centre support.
If I was designing it myself I would probably add a few extra supports just for piece of mind.

You have good insight. Another reason 68 is the better design is when have uneven floors. Another thing to keep in mind is if you plan to add internal overflows, the corner gussets may (more than likely will) interfere with your drain bulkheads.