H2O2 vs Ich, via nightly dosing in display experiment.

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H2O2 vs Ich, via nightly dosing in display experiment.

I recently bought some fish and snails from Harry’s Marine Life in LA. My fish went into my H2O2/TTM hybrid QT set up. The snails I basically dumped right in my display. I know I shouldn’t have done, but I was rushing. I usually do some sort of H2O2 bath, display rinse, etc on inverts and corals also usually get some type of dip. Well I skipped that this time, and as a result my reef now has ich. I only have 3 fish in it right now. My blue tang and yellow tang are showing signs. Nothing visible on my flame angel though.

I know the 76 day fallow period is suggested, and I might eventually do that but I’d rather try this experiment first. I also, will be getting a little 10G nano for a coral/invert QT that set up from now on.

According to @Humblefish H2O2 dosing for 30 days in a display might be effective againsvelvet:
“There is some anecdotal evidence that dosing 1 ml per 10 gal (total water volume) may do just that. However, you would need to dose religiously every 12 hours for at least 30 days. Just dosing 2x 6 days apart doesn't work without transferring the fish to a clean/sterile tank.

^^ I will once again stress that the above is highly experimental. Especially dosing in a reef tank where light (and other factors) will quickly break down H2O2.”


For typical H2O2 baths, like in the hybrid TTM/H2O2 method the desired ppl of H2O2 is 150 ppm. There are studies that back this up as an effective treatment for velvet as well. Just check our the hydrogen peroxide thread for the sources.

Dosing instructions: To achieve ~ 150 ppm H2O2 add: 20 ml of 3% H2O2 per 1 gallon of saltwater.

1ml per 1 gallon is 7.5 ppm.

So 1ml per 10 gallons of salt water is ppm of H2O2 is 0.75 ppm, and 2ml of H2O2 per 10 gallons of saltwater is 1.5 ppm.


In the study: “In vitro treatments for the theront stage of the ciliate protozoan Cryptocaryon irritans” they found that 50ppm of H2O2 had a 91%~ Theront mortality rate in 1hr. 10ppm H2O2 had a 86%~ mortality rate in 1hr. Control group had a 7% mortality rate.

This study also had some bad news regarding freshwater Ich: “Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (A. S. Shinn un- publ.). However, daily treatments with 25 mg l–1 over 20 d did not control I. multifiliis infections and led to high mortalities in the treated fish (Tieman & Goodwin 2001).”

https://www.researchgate.net/profil...caryon-irritans.pdf?origin=publication_detail


My test run:
Starting dose is 10ml of H2O2 (1.5ppm) directly into display for my 50g~ tank at 2:30pm 5/29/2020.

Then at 4pm 5/29/2020, 10 gallon water change (20%, wanted to do a water change, and suck up detritus. No other reason. No signs of distress from H2O2).

5ml at 10pm (lights off), and 5ml (0.75ppm) at 8am is dosing schedule will be dosed with a dosing pump into the sump by the return pump at/below the waterline. Lights are on at 9am. Plan is to continue this process until the end of June 2020.

Will be monitoring corals & inverts (LPS, SPS, Zoas, Mushroom, flower nems, and maxi mini nems, tuxedo urchin, snails, and hermits) to check for signs of distress.

If after a few days all is well, I may consider bumping up the dosage to 10ml (1.5ppm) at a time, twice a day with the same schedule.

If this fails I will considering pulling all fish from tank and running a 76 day fallow period while continuing to dose H2O2.

This will be an anecdotal test because I am not going to be running a control test, and I won’t be during any scale scraping. Simply observing my tank.

Here are some pics.
84211EF7-A2A1-46FB-BCA9-516ACC3425DF.jpeg

1C954201-8C7D-4661-B874-1CEEF593C6CE.jpeg

Let me know if you have any questions, comments, concerns, etc.
 

andrewey

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Sorry about the ich- it's an interesting test. How will you assess if you've been effective or not? I've found one of the problems with most hobbyist investigations into ich is the endpoint is often the presence/absence of visual clues of the trophont. I think this has been widely shown to be a poor and unreliable endpoint and likely explains the positive findings that have been to many of the now debunked ich treatments including garlic or changing lightbulbs. In both of those cases, the trophont was the primary endpoint.
 
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Sorry about the ich- it's an interesting test. How will you assess if you've been effective or not? I've found one of the problems with most hobbyist investigations into ich is the endpoint is often the presence/absence of visual clues of the trophont. I think this has been widely shown to be a poor and unreliable endpoint and likely explains the positive findings that have been to many of the now debunked ich treatments including garlic or changing lightbulbs. In both of those cases, the trophont was the primary endpoint.

Hi @andrewey

You are correct, that I am essentially going for a simple visual clue. Just going to try this for a while until I don’t see any trophonts on my fish. I know this is not very scientific. I don’t have the equipment or knowledge to make this a proper experiment.
 

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No worries then! I just wanted to make sure you were aware that I wouldn't put too much weight in any positive results from your experiment. At this point, as long as you and your fish are happy, I think you're experiment was a sucsess, but I wouldn't necessarily use this for evidence for/against the effectiveness of H202 on ich without a better endpoint. Nonetheless, I'll be following and wishing you success!
 
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No worries then! I just wanted to make sure you were aware that I wouldn't put too much weight in any positive results from your experiment. At this point, as long as you and your fish are happy, I think you're experiment was a sucsess, but I wouldn't necessarily use this for evidence for/against the effectiveness of H202 on ich without a better endpoint. Nonetheless, I'll be following and wishing you success!

Thank you! I figured it could be interesting and if it helps them out with ich management then it could be worth it.

With this current tank and housing situation (I have roommates) I’ll probably focus on ich management because having multiple tanks up consistently is a pain. I know a short term treatment with H2O2/TTM hybrid is something I can do without being an inconvenience to remove velvet, flukes, etc. I cannot say the same about having a 29G QT set up for 3 months while I do my 76 day fallow period.
 
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Update: Day 7, 6/4/2020.

My blue tang is looking worse. He has noticeably more ich spots, and continues to scratch on the rocks a lot.

Other fish don’t really show signs, but maybe the yellow tang is showing very few spots, hard to tell though.

Personally, I’m doubting this is going to have a positive effect on the ich. The H2O2 is only being dosed at 0.75ppm x2 a day for my system size. I am considering bumping it up to 1.5ppm but there are obviously risks with how this will effect my corals, inverts, and fish with long term exposure.

F637CF7D-3ED2-429F-8715-DAEF0146A80B.jpeg
 

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He doesn't look so hot :( If I were in your shoes, I would probably start some of the more traditional treatments, but whatever you chose, I'm wishing you and the tang the best of luck! Pulling for you guys!
 
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He doesn't look so hot :( If I were in your shoes, I would probably start some of the more traditional treatments, but whatever you chose, I'm wishing you and the tang the best of luck! Pulling for you guys!

I agree... I am strongly considering pulling him and doing TTM on him and place him back in the tank. If ich were to pup back up once back in the tank I would pull all fish and TTM them to place them in aknow a fallow period is the only true way to fully eradicate ich, but that is obviously my least favorite option. I will be looking to pick up a dedicated 29G or40G breeder I can use as a long term tank for all of my fish.

In the mean time, I am going to bump up my dose to 10ml of H2O2 (1.5ppm) at 10pm (lights off), and 10ml (1.5ppm) at 8am.

I will monitor for a few days and look for any negative signs. If things stay the same, or get worse I will pull my tangs and then eventually all other fish to run a fallow period.
 
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Honestly I’m going to end this experiment and put the blue tang in a TTM treatment to clear him up, and then see how he does after being re introduced.

The blue tang isn’t looking any better, if anything he’s clearly uncomfortable, and I’ve noticed certain corals seem more upset than they were a week ago.

If he shows symptoms bad again after being re introduced after TTM, I’ll pull all of the fish from the tank and run a 76 day fallow period.
 

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