Has anyone made a custom set up for a Klir Fleece Filter Di-4 in a Red Sea 170?

Leon Gorani

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I am trying to figure out how I can fit the Klir Di-4 filter roller into the sock section of a Red Sea 170. I am thinking of ripping out the glass and holder of the filter sock and making a custom tray/holder to hold this type of filter roller. I have a new Red Sea 170 so I do not want to mess up the new sump. Is it okay to remove the piece of glass just under the filters sock? Has anyone made something custom for this type of filter sock roller? I am thinking of using acrylic, if I can find any, and plexiglass. will those materials silicone to glass well? I am also thinking of removing the glass on the right that holds the original auto top off reservoir. in the image the red is what is what I would remove and the light blue is what I would add.

red sea sump idea-01.png
 

dmy535

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I’m in the same boat as you... I have a RSR 250, and searching this forum I’ve seen people use a 3D printer to make something that will help fit the area and raise the water to desired levels. I have tried posting in the 3D print forum to ask for help, but haven’t gotten anywhere yet.... maybe you’ll have more luck?

For your question, you could remove those pieces yes and then yes, you could silicone your own baffles in as needed. I’ve made my own sump before from a 20 gal long on my last tank build, I used glass for my baffles that o got from Lowe’s, Home Depot, or similar store. I used a glass etcher/cutting tool that easily cut the pieces to fit. Then I used 100% silicone to glue in place. Worked great! I’d recommend glass over plexiglass unless you get really thick type... because I feel the water pressure will cause the plexi to bow. Not to mention plexiglass is pretty pricey.

If you figure this out let me know. I have same sump design, except 2 socks. I also removed the triangle ATO piece in corner. Just use a utility knife to cut out the silicone from the edges.
 
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Leon Gorani

Leon Gorani

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I’m in the same boat as you... I have a RSR 250, and searching this forum I’ve seen people use a 3D printer to make something that will help fit the area and raise the water to desired levels. I have tried posting in the 3D print forum to ask for help, but haven’t gotten anywhere yet.... maybe you’ll have more luck?

For your question, you could remove those pieces yes and then yes, you could silicone your own baffles in as needed. I’ve made my own sump before from a 20 gal long on my last tank build, I used glass for my baffles that o got from Lowe’s, Home Depot, or similar store. I used a glass etcher/cutting tool that easily cut the pieces to fit. Then I used 100% silicone to glue in place. Worked great! I’d recommend glass over plexiglass unless you get really thick type... because I feel the water pressure will cause the plexi to bow. Not to mention plexiglass is pretty pricey.

If you figure this out let me know. I have same sump design, except 2 socks. I also removed the triangle ATO piece in corner. Just use a utility knife to cut out the silicone from the edges.
Hi, so I drew up another design. yes I have seen people do 3d printing for this too but that is not something I can do which is too bad haha. So I gave the baffle facing forward space at the bottom for the water to flow out of, is this how it should be done?
So in order for the Klir- Di 4 to work properly there would need to be a seal in the sock hole, in the second image that has the red circled area. The flat portion of the Klir filter would need to make a seal onto the glass where it is resting right? or else water would not flow through the Klir? When looking at the diagram on their video, it looks like my diagram is the same idea, let me know what you think.
 

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dmy535

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Looks like it would work. Biggest requirement is that 1.5”water depth. Looks like you have a good idea... which got my brain thinking now too!
 
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Leon Gorani

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Looks like it would work. Biggest requirement is that 1.5”water depth. Looks like you have a good idea... which got my brain thinking now too!
sweet sounds good man! now I just need to figure out how to make a bracket with a 4 inch hole to house the Klir. not sure if I can get a pice of glass cut like that.
 
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Leon Gorani

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I’m in the same boat as you... I have a RSR 250, and searching this forum I’ve seen people use a 3D printer to make something that will help fit the area and raise the water to desired levels. I have tried posting in the 3D print forum to ask for help, but haven’t gotten anywhere yet.... maybe you’ll have more luck?

For your question, you could remove those pieces yes and then yes, you could silicone your own baffles in as needed. I’ve made my own sump before from a 20 gal long on my last tank build, I used glass for my baffles that o got from Lowe’s, Home Depot, or similar store. I used a glass etcher/cutting tool that easily cut the pieces to fit. Then I used 100% silicone to glue in place. Worked great! I’d recommend glass over plexiglass unless you get really thick type... because I feel the water pressure will cause the plexi to bow. Not to mention plexiglass is pretty pricey.

If you figure this out let me know. I have same sump design, except 2 socks. I also removed the triangle ATO piece in corner. Just use a utility knife to cut out the silicone from the edges.
Hey so I cut a piece of glass cut out with a hole to fit the klir filter, but I am just worried that this will not block the flow of water around the circular adapter on the klir filter. If I place the klir filter with the circular part directly ontop of the glass, do you think that would be enough to not allow water to go around the filter? So that way it would fill up to 1.5 inches to allow the filter to roll. Here’s a pic of what it would look like, hopefully you get what I am asking lol. Like the circular piece on the klir isn’t inside of a filter sock tray as it’s supposed to be. The last pic is what it looks like from underneath. The piece of glass I had cut is exactly 4 inches, but the actual white plastic from klir is smaller than 4 inches so it doesn’t fit perfectly so I had to use the larger plastic piece to place ontop. I think it’s crazy they advertised it as having a 4 inch circular piece when it’s actually smaller.
Any input would be appreciated
 

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((FORDTECH))

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I am trying to figure out how I can fit the Klir Di-4 filter roller into the sock section of a Red Sea 170. I am thinking of ripping out the glass and holder of the filter sock and making a custom tray/holder to hold this type of filter roller. I have a new Red Sea 170 so I do not want to mess up the new sump. Is it okay to remove the piece of glass just under the filters sock? Has anyone made something custom for this type of filter sock roller? I am thinking of using acrylic, if I can find any, and plexiglass. will those materials silicone to glass well? I am also thinking of removing the glass on the right that holds the original auto top off reservoir. in the image the red is what is what I would remove and the light blue is what I would add.

red sea sump idea-01.png
How about using the bracket assy that klir offer for the filter ?
 

((FORDTECH))

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You mean this thing? This assembly doesn’t fit in my Red Sea 170, which is why I am going this route.
I have to modify this bracket to work in my sump. End up having to put 4 inch feet on mine to raise it up After the mod I really like how it works
 

((FORDTECH))

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What tank are you putting it in? And how are you modifying it?
I run 4 klir 7s. Two on each of my 300 gallon systems. In my one system my sump is very deep about 30 inches so I end up acrylic glueing pvc fittings in all 4 corners of the bottom so I could then cut proper size pvc pipe and insert them into fittings to raise it up
 

((FORDTECH))

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What tank are you putting it in? And how are you modifying it?
The 2 I have in other sump make a mess no matter what I do cause chamber they sit in with sock holes is not deep enough and to high in sump so salt creep is crazy messy
 

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I know it won’t fit a 170, but I have a Reefer 350 that had a 2 sock tray which I replaced with a custom 3D printed tray which fits a KLIR DI-4. I can share the file with whoever wants it, can’t say which tanks other than a 350 v3 sump it’ll fit. Also made a wall for the water at the end of the sock tray and an adjustable float switch mount.
 

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DarkReefer

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How'd you get on with this? Did you leave it with the circular part on top of the glass or find a way to get it to fit within the circle?
I've just picked one up and whilst the unit fits in the Waterbox 70.2, the pre-cut circular adaptors are all too large to fit snug within the sock hole.

I could potentially leave it on top with the large circular one perhaps or the middle one to ensure the hole is completely blocked. The water MUST go through this section on the WB sump, otherwise it'll build up enough eventually to get the motor to turn on so I don't think it'd be that much of an issue but thought I'd ask first.

Alternatively I could possibly dremel the existing adaptors slightly to get it to drop in.
 
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Leon Gorani

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How'd you get on with this? Did you leave it with the circular part on top of the glass or find a way to get it to fit within the circle?
I've just picked one up and whilst the unit fits in the Waterbox 70.2, the pre-cut circular adaptors are all too large to fit snug within the sock hole.

I could potentially leave it on top with the large circular one perhaps or the middle one to ensure the hole is completely blocked. The water MUST go through this section on the WB sump, otherwise it'll build up enough eventually to get the motor to turn on so I don't think it'd be that much of an issue but thought I'd ask first.

Alternatively I could possibly dremel the existing adaptors slightly to get it to drop in.
Yeah so I had a few pieces of glass cut to make a tray for the circular piece of the klir filter to sit on. The circle piece of the klir filter did not fit perfectly inside the glass with a hole I had cut out, even though I measured it perfectly. But it really didn’t matter because I used the next size up for one of those circular adapters that come with the klir filter. It just sits ontop of the glass that has a hole cut out of it and it works great. Here are some pics. My silicone job is not great but I don’t care since it does the job and I’m not looking at it lol in the last pic that is a side view and you can see how high the water rises. And I have a pic showing the three pieces of glass I had cut, I made an example out of cardboard, and I ripped out everything in that overflow chamber so that I could silicone all these pieces of glass in.
 

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DarkReefer

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Thanks so much for the update!
Glad to to hear it's working well for you. I've pretty much settled in to do the same just by sitting the unit on top. It seemed to cover the hole okay. Water level seems like it has a ways to go before it'll creep up high enough for the sensor to work so will continue to monitor it over the next few days.

Fingers crossed !
 

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I know it won’t fit a 170, but I have a Reefer 350 that had a 2 sock tray which I replaced with a custom 3D printed tray which fits a KLIR DI-4. I can share the file with whoever wants it, can’t say which tanks other than a 350 v3 sump it’ll fit. Also made a wall for the water at the end of the sock tray and an adjustable float switch mount.
can you send me link or the STL for this
 

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