Heaters — Finnex or BRS?

((FORDTECH))

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I'm on board with running them from the Apex, I'm not buying that hype spread around that running them on your Apex is going to trash your outlet. Perhaps if you're running 600w+ heaters it may be a bit more on the wear and tear side but there are solutions for that. Working on running mine via the 24v ports to control a secondary relay as a test of theory. When running two, run them alternating 12hr shifts and you'll save wear on the heaters themselves I think.
Instead of doing this with the 24v powering a relay what I have been doing with my 800watt heaters is running them thru the Neptune’s expansion module (I think it’s called) then the power it taken straight from a wall outlet but uses apex energy bar to control it
 

((FORDTECH))

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Brs is awesome (I am a fan), but everyone needs to chill and not let them spoon feed everyone lol. They aren't right about everything.
That’s what I’m saying they are wrong and there is nothing wrong with using apex to control heaters I’ve done it for 10 years.
 

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Instead of doing this with the 24v powering a relay what I have been doing with my 800watt heaters is running them thru the Neptune’s expansion module (I think it’s called) then the power it taken straight from a wall outlet but uses apex energy bar to control it
I'm kinda following but detail how am expansion module can switch a walk outlet. Walk me thru this. Appreciate the engagement
 

vetteguy53081

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Yes but do you run the heaters 24/7 all year around or do they turn on and off so they can cool down
They are on auto. If they ran year round, tank may get a little hot
 

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This is the program I run to control my heaters they the Apex directly. I just copied one but other than the name reference I have one for each heater and the time just flips 12hrs for the alternate.

Fallback OFF
If Tmp < 78.1 Then ON
If Tmp > 78.9 Then OFF
If Time 00:00 to 11:59 Then OFF
If Output BackupHeat = ON Then ON
If Output Maintenance = ON Then OFF
If Output PumpStatus = OFF Then OFF
 

((FORDTECH))

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I'm kinda following but detail how am expansion module can switch a walk outlet. Walk me thru this. Appreciate the engagement
If I’m calling it the right thing will have to double check the name but expansion module works exactly the same as a relay. Low current to control a larger current. In this cause the low current would come from the apex energy bar as it turns on and of. Then the expansion module plugs into the wall. And your heater plugs into expansion module. When apex turns on outlet it switches relay inside expansion module to allow power from wall outlet to go thru expansion module to power heater. This way the current does not go thru energy bar only from wall to heater but still allows you to control it. Let me double check if it’s called expansion module or not I’ll post back
 

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If I’m calling it the right thing will have to double check the name but expansion module works exactly the same as a relay. Low current to control a larger current. In this cause the low current would come from the apex energy bar as it turns on and of. Then the expansion module plugs into the wall. And your heater plugs into expansion module. When apex turns on outlet it switches relay inside expansion module to allow power from wall outlet to go thru expansion module to power heater. This way the current does not go thru energy bar only from wall to heater but still allows you to control it. Let me double check if it’s called expansion module or not I’ll post back
Ok that logic all checks out and I follow. It's literally what I was talking about doing (albeit my own construct). I'm just not aware of an apex expansion module outside of another EB8 that accepts a typical 110v plug in
 

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This is the program I run to control my heaters they the Apex directly. I just copied one but other than the name reference I have one for each heater and the time just flips 12hrs for the alternate.

Fallback OFF
If Tmp < 78.1 Then ON
If Tmp > 78.9 Then OFF
If Time 00:00 to 11:59 Then OFF
If Output BackupHeat = ON Then ON
If Output Maintenance = ON Then OFF
If Output PumpStatus = OFF Then OFF
Love the line
If output backupheat = on then on.

That solves the problem of running separate heaters
 

RobB'z Reef

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Love the line
If output backupheat = on then on.

That solves the problem of running separate heaters
Yes, backupheat is another virtual output that basically says if your currently 'on' heater isn't cutting it bring the 'offline'heater online to get **** done. Ideally you have a spare to swap out the assumed defective one. So every heater you have actively wired in is a backup at any time
 

((FORDTECH))

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Ok that logic all checks out and I follow. It's literally what I was talking about doing (albeit my own construct). I'm just not aware of an apex expansion module outside of another EB8 that accepts a typical 110v plug in
Had a hard time finding this maybe apex stop making them I’m sure you could find used and not have to build anything.
It’s called socket expansion not expansion module like I said
 

RobB'z Reef

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Had a hard time finding this maybe apex stop making them I’m sure you could find used and not have to build anything.
It’s called socket expansion not expansion module like I said
Interesting! This is my reference for what I was persuing...

Thread 'Outlet Saver (Aquarium Engineering Tank Saver, Relay outlet, Digital Aquatics Expansion Socket)' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/o...let-digital-aquatics-expansion-socket.704207/
 

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Hello. I’m thinking of converting to a two heater system on my 120G. One controlled by an InkBird that is powered by an Apex. The other heater would be plugged in to the EB 832 directly and pretty much “always on” (like temp < 80)

I‘d appreciate any thoughts on Finnex vs BRS

I love my Finnex. Haven't had one problem with it in over two years.
 

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I'm running a 300W finex with out thermostat, plugged into an aqualogic controller (rebranded ranco) backed up by the apex.

The aqualogic controller is over 10 years now. The finex heater is about 4.5

Ryan himself has said that him having the temp differential set at .1 is probably what killed the eb832 socket. .5 to 1 degree should be absolutely fine.
 

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