- Jul 13, 2016
- Reaction score
- New Jersey
Some very solid points, and the big drawback -contamination of your supply water- is made moot with the circulation code.I’m using this on a 300 gallon system with zero issues. Spending roughly .20 cents per month on heating costs in northern NJ. I have redundancies in place such as multiple temp probes to remove heat. A fail to closed valve in case of failure. Leak detectors to detect a leak in the event of a heat exchanger leak. I have additional electric heaters in the sump in case this system fails to open. These heaters are individual turned on for 2 min a day so my APEX can determine if they’re still drawing current and give me an alarm when it’s out of range. I run water through the system once every 12 hours to ensure bacteria doesn’t build in the line and affect my drinking water. I feel incredibly confident in this set up and would say it’s a heck of a lot more reliable then electric heaters alone. I look at it from a different perspective and that’s “why would I trust a $30-50 piece of equipment that’s known to fail to protect $3000 worth of live stock”.
One year in this and it’s been flawless
15000 watts of stick heaters can turn your tank into a dry box faster than you think.Haha, yes, that is right. Even the physically small 55K exchanger is broadly equivalent to 15,000 watts of stick heaters. Means layers of redundancy to avoid overheating.
I pointed out that these heat exchangers are made with pools in mind to highlight that they are built for way more abuse than a typical fish tank hobbyist will every throw at them. Making a leak, in my opinion, highly unlikely.LOL, maybe so since you seemed to be making two different points. That these heat exchangers are made with saltwater pools in mind may translate to longer mean time to failure .... or it may not. That they are ‘sized’ to much higher volumes means being very careful about how you use them to avoid overheating.
Understood, just found the logic a bit muddled. Anyhow, I’ve purchased a heat exchanger from aquarium engineering, though still waiting and waiting for the control board. Probably just should have built it myself. His exchanger seems bigger than most of the pool models folks are using so multiple levels of redundancy will be key to prevent any possibility of runaway heat. I’m also going to use it for cooling.15000 watts of stick heaters can turn your tank into a dry box faster than you think.
Since your water heater temp is set to 125 oF -normally- then your tank isn’t going to get much above that.
Not a comparison that can be made.
I think dubs point was that the titanium heat exchangers have been used in saltwater pools for a long time, and therefore have a proven track record of long term successful use in saltwater.
It’s the same heat exchanger as the OPs, for what it’s worth.Understood, just found the logic a bit muddled. Anyhow, I’ve purchased a heat exchanger from aquarium engineering, though still waiting and waiting for the control board. Probably just should have built it myself. His exchanger seems bigger than most of the pool models folks are using so multiple levels of redundancy will be key to prevent any possibility of runaway heat. I’m also going to use it for cooling.
So as you may see in my 2yr update video- I had my only backup electric heater fail to ground. It could have been bad for 2 years because I never tested it! I just removed all electric heaters. Perhaps I should have done what you did, and have it turn on once a day, but I was worried that if it did fail and I was on vacation, a test turn on would have caused larger problems- are you shutting off the automatic test when you go on vacation?I also have an electric heater on back up and have the apex run it once a day for 5 minutes with power monitoring / alerting set up on that outlet to make sure it actually works.
Yeah, the one off ebay is gone, someone is selling the same thing for $100 more. They can be found elsewhere as well- part number is SP-55Kti-S.Thanks for the update. I checked into getting a heat exchanger but it looks like prices have gone up significantly.
Maybe a small amount would circulate or it's possible cold water could push it's way though to the hot side if check valves are not used. To get reliable and adequate hot water flow through the heat exchanger I think a pump would definitely have to be used.So if you return the water back to the same pressurized system no water would circulate is what your saying
Do you know anyone who has used the fish street coil and is confident it's actually fully titanium? I'm nervous it of the quality and if it will leech unwanted metals.Yeah, the one off ebay is gone, someone is selling the same thing for $100 more. They can be found elsewhere as well- part number is SP-55Kti-S.
But if you are willing to go with a in sump version there is also this- which is way cheaper.
There are also titanium shell and tube heat ex changers on aliexpress for under 200 shipped