HELP!! Algae out of control!!

Austin Lee · Sep 29, 2015

Alright here it is - another algae post. So let me set up this situation for you...

I am running a 20 gallon long that has been up for about two-three months total now (including the cycling process). I have a great current USA light, along with two clownfish and a zoanthid coral in my tank. I have two 425 gph powerheads and a hang on back filter as well as a great heater (the brand is slipping my mind right now). That's my gear. Here's my problem:

IN THIS ORDER:

I struggled initially with a diatom bloom that went away rather quickly.

The diatom bloom was swiftly followed by cyanobacteria (we're talking 2-3 days later).

Last but certainly not least - the cyano was followed by green hair algae.

To be clear green hair algae is the ONLY problem I am currently having with this tank.

So, I invested in a goby, as well as bulked up my cleanup crew. I'm running with an emerald crab, three red leg hermits, three blue leg hermits, and four snails. When this didn't work at all, I added Bacter M clean into the cycle.

After this was in the system for about a week, I spent some time doing a manual clean. I got about 2/3 of all the algae in the tank out.

I had my water tested at my LFS and realized my magnesium was too low, so we have been dosing the tank with Magnesium now as well. We have been doing this for about 4 days now and the algae has only been regrowing where I did the manual clean.

This has REALLY been frustrating me and I'm concerned with it having adverse effects on my livestock. PLEASE HELP.

Waters · Sep 29, 2015

Have you taken a look at your Nitrates and Phosphates? Those numbers will be elevated otherwise you would not have excessive algae growth......to remedy that (and starve out the algae) you need to concentrate on lowering them. I would consider running GFO to lower the phosphates. Also, what is your current water change schedule? You didn't mention a skimmer for nutrient export so the regular water changes become extremely important to keep levels in check. Finally, are you using tap water? If so, I would suggest switching to RO/DI water....tap water contains all kinds of unwanted things that will fuel algae growth.

brandon429 · Sep 29, 2015

easy summary, two options

chase phosphates and install po4 binding media and wait for it to hopefully die

kill it in 24 hours where it is dead, then do the po4 dance.

either is fine! different time frames that's all.

Austin Lee · Sep 29, 2015

Waters said:
Have you taken a look at your Nitrates and Phosphates? Those numbers will be elevated otherwise you would not have excessive algae growth......to remedy that (and starve out the algae) you need to concentrate on lowering them. I would consider running GFO to lower the phosphates. Also, what is your current water change schedule? You didn't mention a skimmer for nutrient export so the regular water changes become extremely important to keep levels in check. Finally, are you using tap water? If so, I would suggest switching to RO/DI water....tap water contains all kinds of unwanted things that will fuel algae growth.

Nitrates are about 20 and phosphates are 0. I am using RODI water and doing a 10%-20% water change every week-2 weeks

brandon429 · Sep 29, 2015

but the phosphate dance entails always finding the phosphate and no matter what test kit shows 0, its still there as uptaken by the algae, which took it from stores your test kits wont show such as organic phosphate stores. This chase is one reason the po4 dance doesn't wipe the tank clean of GHA in 24 hours but its by far the commoner method.

twilliard · Sep 29, 2015

Take the rock out and use peroxide
Rinse it off and put back into the tank.
Then as Brandon stated find your source of P and Po4

Waters · Sep 29, 2015

As Brandon stated, your phosphate level is unfortunately not 0.......the algae is just feeding off of it which is giving you a false reading. I personally would make sure you do the water changes every week (at least until the algae is under control) and try running some GFO if possible to lower phosphates. One other option that I forgot to mention initially is reducing your current lighting schedule if possible.

Austin Lee · Sep 29, 2015

twilliard said:
Take the rock out and use peroxide
Rinse it off and put back into the tank.
Then as Brandon stated find your source of P and Po4

Should I scrub the algae off either before or after I rinse with peroxide?

Austin Lee · Sep 29, 2015

Waters said:
As Brandon stated, your phosphate level is unfortunately not 0.......the algae is just feeding off of it which is giving you a false reading. I personally would make sure you do the water changes every week (at least until the algae is under control) and try running some GFO if possible to lower phosphates. One other option that I forgot to mention initially is reducing your current lighting schedule if possible.

Would Phosban be a good GFO? If it is reading 0, will the Phosban even effect it, or is the Phosphate just being held in by the algae and thus won't be able to be touched by the Phosban?

MoReefing · Sep 29, 2015

You still have a very young tank. It will not be considerred mature until its been up and running for at least one year. We have all experenced these and many other algae problems. I would not add any more fish to your system until your tanks bio-load can handle what you already have. Also remember, that a 20 gal tank has very little room for margin of error. Be patient and take your time. NOTHING good happens fast in this hobby. Keep up your maintenance program, water changes and try feeding less. Also shorten your lights on time.

twilliard · Sep 29, 2015

Austin Lee said:
Should I scrub the algae off either before or after I rinse with peroxide?

I would pull as much off as you can. Then use a syringe to squirt peroxide on it.
Rinse the rock and put it back in.
But still the P and po4 will grow more.
My po4 is .014 which I only use the triton ICP test as no test kit will accurately read that low in my opinion

jcdeng · Sep 29, 2015

if you don't run fug with chaeto then theres not real po4 export in your tank. You can add a TLF 150 (they can hang on the outside of the tank) and run gfo in it. Or get your hands wet by pulling them and doing 5 gallon waterchanges twice a week. And instead of CUC, algae blenny works way better.

also, how old are your bulbs? you need to replace them every 9 months b/c they can shift spectrum and promote algae growth.

Austin Lee · Sep 29, 2015

jcdeng said:
if you don't run fug with chaeto then theres not real po4 export in your tank. You can add a TLF 150 (they can hang on the outside of the tank) and run gfo in it. Or get your hands wet by pulling them and doing 5 gallon waterchanges twice a week. And instead of CUC, algae blenny works way better.

also, how old are your bulbs? you need to replace them every 9 months b/c they can shift spectrum and promote algae growth.

My bulbs are only a couple months old. I'm running the Current USA LEDs

jcdeng · Sep 29, 2015

ah i see, i thought u run t5s.

Breakthecycle2 · Sep 29, 2015

I would you Red Sea's Nitrate/Phosphate reducer. It really works great.

Waters · Sep 29, 2015

Austin Lee said:
Would Phosban be a good GFO? If it is reading 0, will the Phosban even effect it, or is the Phosphate just being held in by the algae and thus won't be able to be touched by the Phosban?

Yes, Phosban will work. Your phosphate test is only reading 0 because the algae is using the phosphates it as soon as they are available. The idea behind using Phosban is to remove the phosphate before the algae consumes it. So to answer your question, yes, the Phosban will work even though you are reading 0 phosphates.