HELP clown fish is sick. Don’t know what disease it is.

[BMDinh]

I got clown fish on January 4 ( about a month). I used copper power in the QT tank for 4 days and stopped because the clown fish weren’t eating, and noticed that the clown fish were pooping, white stringy, poop. I did 100% water change and use Kana Plex instead for 3 measure (about 6 days, maximum dose), the clown fish started eating as soon as I added the kana plex and the white stringy poop disappeared. After a week and a half, I added the clown fish into the display tank and then took it out because the nitrites were above 5ppm (tank was still cycling, no livestock in display tank). Three days later I add copper power in the QT. Three days after that , I noticed the clown fish had white stuff on its tail, fins and gills and had fin rot. The clown fish are still eating. I did a 100% water change every three to four days in the quarantine tank because of ammonia. I don’t know what type of disease or bacterial disease is on the clown fish. It is my first time handling with saltwater fish. I was wondering if you guys could help me identify it?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I got clown fish on January 4 ( about a month). I used copper power in the QT tank for 4 days and stopped because the clown fish weren’t eating, and noticed that the clown fish were pooping, white stringy, poop. I did 100% water change and use Kana Plex instead for 3 measure (about 6 days, maximum dose), the clown fish started eating as soon as I added the kana plex and the white stringy poop disappeared. After a week and a half, I added the clown fish into the display tank and then took it out because the nitrites were above 5ppm (tank was still cycling, no livestock in display tank). Three days later I add copper power in the QT. Three days after that , I noticed the clown fish had white stuff on its tail, fins and gills and had fin rot. The clown fish are still eating. I did a 100% water change every three to four days in the quarantine tank because of ammonia. I don’t know what type of disease or bacterial disease is on the clown fish. It is my first time handling with saltwater fish. I was wondering if you guys could help me identify it?

The heavy presence of mucus suggests brooklynella which commonly affects clowns especially wild caught versions. If I see correctly- the fish has secondary infections which stem from long term brook.
The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now hard to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials

 

[Uncle99]

Way to much change.
Stabilize your water chemistry first.

 

[BMDinh]

The heavy presence of mucus suggests brooklynella which commonly affects clowns especially wild caught versions. If I see correctly- the fish has secondary infections which stem from long term brook.
The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now hard to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials

Thanks, I got a captive bred clown fish. I mentioned I put fish in the display tank for about 16 minutes and then took I out, do you know what will I have to do with the display tank?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thanks, I got a captive bred clown fish. I mentioned I put fish in the display tank for about 16 minutes and then took I out, do you know what will I have to do with the display tank?

Fish will have to be treated in quarantine. While in quarantine, let the display sit without fish during treatment period. If there is fish in the tank, You can add ruby Rally pro to protect them and reduce chances from exposure

 

[BMDinh]

Way to much change.
Stabilize your water chemistry first.

I was following the BRS QT guidelines. And they said to do a 100% water change for every three days because of ammonia and to sterilize the tank.

 

[BMDinh]

Any other suggestions?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I was following the BRS QT guidelines. And they said to do a 100% water change for every three days because of ammonia and to sterilize the tank.

That can be really rough on fish, better to rely on a stable bio filter to maintain water quality.
Jay

 

[BMDinh]

That can be really rough on fish, better to rely on a stable bio filter to maintain water quality.
Jay

Thanks for the info!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Any other suggestions?

Wellcome to Reef2Reef!

The fish not eating during copper power wasn’t related to the copper unless you dosed more than a full dose. Then, adding the kanamycin and the fish starting to feed was also coincidental - antibiotics take 3 to 5 days to work.

I do think your clownfish may have Brooklynella - that it tough to control, copper won’t help. You need a product with formalin in it, although ruby reef rally pro will work in some cases.

Jay

 

[Uncle99]

I was following the BRS QT guidelines. And they said to do a 100% water change for every three days because of ammonia and to sterilize the tank.

Maybe 10% everyday would reduce the Impact of new water additions and still keep ammonia in check.

What was the health original concern when the fish entered QT.
I don’t use any meds just in case, I have found many to suppress appetite which is very counter productive.

I simply watch new additions carefully in stable water chemistry and with no stress points, good food and let them get somewhat comfortable from the trip.

I work hard to get them eating diffent foods, those I serve everyday when applicable. After each meal, I syphon out anything left, this helps keep ammonia in control.

If, in the following 30 days, something shows up, then I would treat with meds specific to what I’m trying to fix, and they stay until better.

If in those 30 days, no problem shows up, eating real well, behavior is normal, I transfer to acclimation box in the DT in the morning, and release at night.

After decades of adding fish, only once did I need treat as ick showed up with days of going into QT. In Canada, all true meds require a prescription so really, not much option.

I would always follow Jays advice on identifying problems and treating when his posts are available.