Help with Colorado Sunburst Anemone

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If I didn't see it by Wednesday am, I'd probably go looking, but again, if you move rocks without knowing where it is, you run the risk of fatally wounding the nem if it is connected at the juncture of two rocks.
I don't think I'd have that issue with these rocks as they are quite large. I'd remove the smaller rocks the the top boulder which I can see under the the left boulder which is in sand...and get a good look at the last boulder before movement. It's under that last one where the caves are.
 
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Seems your parameters are good, no chemical warfare and sufficient lighting. Just keep everything stable. If you don't have cipro on hand now would be a good time to order some. If next time you catch a glimpse it looks to be going down hill then moving to a hospital tank and antibiotics could help.

Thanks.
 

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I’d agree with lowering the lights for a bit. Maybe it’ll encourage it to move out to get light if it’s hungry for light.

Maybe worth doing water parameter checks daily to see if there’s a spike in ammonia/nitrite. Then you’d have an idea if there was some death that happened. Maybe…?

Hoping it’s not dead and it’s just stressed and hiding.
 
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I’d agree with lowering the lights for a bit. Maybe it’ll encourage it to move out to get light if it’s hungry for light.

Maybe worth doing water parameter checks daily to see if there’s a spike in ammonia/nitrite. Then you’d have an idea if there was some death that happened. Maybe…?

Hoping it’s not dead and it’s just stressed and hiding.

Even if it died, I doubt I'd see an ammonia spike.
 
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I agree to give it time. Mine have gone for 3/4 days when first put in. Have you tried a flashlight around the rocks?
When they hide sometimes its too much light. You said this came from 300 par and you have 350/400? Perhaps you can lower the lights a little for a few days?
Keep looking for it, hopefully you'll find it today. As long as it's not bleaching or turning to mush or foot not connecting, don't worry too much yet.

I'd actually given up on the CSB and decided after 4 days not to move the rocks.

Today is day 6 and it's back...

20220721_112528-01.jpeg


You can just see it's tentacles poking out between rocks.

It probably still hates my tank.
 

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I'd actually given up on the CSB and decided after 4 days not to move the rocks.

Today is day 6 and it's back...

20220721_112528-01.jpeg


You can just see it's tentacles poking out between rocks.

It probably still hates my tank.
Nice, I'm sure it doesn't hate your tank, lol.
Just needed time. They are all water and needed to adjust.
Post a pic in full glory when it comes out. ;)
 
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Nice, I'm sure it doesn't hate your tank, lol.
Just needed time. They are all water and needed to adjust.
Post a pic in full glory when it comes out. ;)
It actually just started receding back in the rock work... :(

Popped out to check things out and said "still sucks...I'm out of here."
 

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Could kenya trees in the tank be causing the CSB trouble?
Doubtful. New nems to my tank took a couple weeks to really settle in. Keep everything stable and see what happens.
 
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Doubtful. New nems to my tank took a couple weeks to really settle in. Keep everything stable and see what happens.

Over my 30 years of reefing this is the 1st nem I've every seen hide from the lights. Just seems abnormal based on my experiences.
 

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Over my 30 years of reefing this is the 1st nem I've every seen hide from the lights. Just seems abnormal based on my experiences.
Any idea the lighting it came from? Someone running T5 or halide will be much easier on a nem than LED. Just a thought.
 
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Any idea the lighting it came from? Someone running T5 or halide will be much easier on a nem than LED. Just a thought.
It can from a 40 Gal breeder with a360x Kessil.

I'm using 2 x Kessil a360x, 1 x Kessil ap9x, and 2 x Reef Brite xho strips to provide fill in light.
 

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It can from a 40 Gal breeder with a360x Kessil.

I'm using 2 x Kessil a360x, 1 x Kessil ap9x, and 2 x Reef Brite xho strips to provide fill in light.
Mine are under a 360 as well. Have 2 over my 90g and they sit directly under one of them. I have it at 95% but you're still putting out more par than me most likely.
 
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Mine are under a 360 as well. Have 2 over my 90g and they sit directly under one of them. I have it at 95% but you're still putting out more par than me most likely.

I have them with the narrow reflectors which does a great job increasing the output over a smaller area.
 

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@Eagle_Steve knows kessil and nems pretty well. Any thoughts?
 

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If you ever need to chase it down again I would use a black light flashlight when the lights are off. But I agree that nems are weird and will figure out where they want to be. I have a CSB that split, the split climbed into the overflow, and while pulling it back out the split became 4. It’s been about a month and they’re all happy and healthy.
 

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Let me get done grilling dinner, eat and then I will hop on computer and take a looksy.
Ok. Looked everything over.

The below is from my experience with csb, so not set in stone.

alk at 11 is a little high, especially with no3 at 5. Every csb I have had (numerous sellers) have always been in 7-9 with no3 around 10. How hard would it be to drop alk? Or raise no3? Just curious, especially about the alk part. High all is usually reserved for high nutrient tanks and quickly growing acros.

Can you post your light settings? Almost all of the csb I have had did better under a more white spectrum. For example, an a360we at 60% color and 95% intensity is where they would site in a 40b during qt/observation. The eye would almost all move to the highest piece of pipe, dead center of the tank wanting the par. Blue was only used for pics lol. The best looking one I had that made babies left and right was under halides, but we won’t get into that, as a whole other discussion

Now, I used water change water to feed that tank and it was 15-20 no3 and .1 po4 with an alk of 8-8.2.

In addition, the receiving at 85 worries me. Anytime I have received a nem in high temp water and there was waste in the bag, I had to treat them. Always ended up with an infection and always started out light then went to crap after about 2 weeks. So, if there was waste in the bag and the temp was high, I suggest doing a cipro treatment. 250mg per 10 gallons following the sticky by Orion in the nem/clownfish section should work great for it, if it is sick.

for removal, you can try manual removal or the nem cannon (there is sticky in the nem/clownfish section outlining it). The nem cannon will work, even for nems not wanting light, as it also blocks flow. If manual removal, just go slow and be careful.
 
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Ok. Looked everything over.

The below is from my experience with csb, so not set in stone.

alk at 11 is a little high, especially with no3 at 5. Every csb I have had (numerous sellers) have always been in 7-9 with no3 around 10. How hard would it be to drop alk? Or raise no3? Just curious, especially about the alk part. High all is usually reserved for high nutrient tanks and quickly growing acros.

Can you post your light settings? Almost all of the csb I have had did better under a more white spectrum. For example, an a360we at 60% color and 95% intensity is where they would site in a 40b during qt/observation. The eye would almost all move to the highest piece of pipe, dead center of the tank wanting the par. Blue was only used for pics lol. The best looking one I had that made babies left and right was under halides, but we won’t get into that, as a whole other discussion

Now, I used water change water to feed that tank and it was 15-20 no3 and .1 po4 with an alk of 8-8.2.

In addition, the receiving at 85 worries me. Anytime I have received a nem in high temp water and there was waste in the bag, I had to treat them. Always ended up with an infection and always started out light then went to crap after about 2 weeks. So, if there was waste in the bag and the temp was high, I suggest doing a cipro treatment. 250mg per 10 gallons following the sticky by Orion in the nem/clownfish section should work great for it, if it is sick.

for removal, you can try manual removal or the nem cannon (there is sticky in the nem/clownfish section outlining it). The nem cannon will work, even for nems not wanting light, as it also blocks flow. If manual removal, just go slow and be careful.

My Alk is usually around high 7s or mid 8s. The CSB came from a 11 dKH tank.

NO3 is usually between 5 - 10 in my tank and PO4 below 0.1. It's been a little towards the higher side since I went on vacation and built an automatic refrigeratored frozen fish food feeder.

Light settings with narrow reflectors (sand par is between 100 to 200; mid tank 200 to 350; top 300 to 500)

Screenshot_20220711-164851_Kessil WiFi.jpg


Color goes from 15 to 25. So the tank is pretty blue.

SmartSelect_20220721-222606_Kessil WiFi.jpg


I have Cipro, but nem looks nice when it was out.

As it has disappeared again after making a very brief appearance today...I'd have to remove some large rocks to get to the caves I think it's hiding in.
 

Rock solid aquascape: Does the weight of the rocks in your aquascape matter?

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